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Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin / Hichem Kichou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hichem Kichou, Auteur ; Yuri Dancik, Auteur ; Christophe Eklouh-Molinier, Auteur ; Nicolas Huang, Auteur ; Martin Soucé, Auteur ; Laurianne Gressin, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Igor Chourpa, Auteur ; Emilie Munnier, Auteur ; Franck Bonnier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 262-270 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Emulsions sans émulsifiants
Epiderme
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau reconstruite
Pénétration cutanée
UltrasonsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions.
- Methods : The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared.
- Results : The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%–30% only.
- Conclusion : This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ingredients - Preparation of samples - Viscosity and pH measurement - Particle size measurement - Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) - Skin permeation experiments - High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis - Data analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterization of samples - In vitro caffeine permeation
- Table 1 : Composition (wt %) of the caffeine formulations studied
- Table 2 : Viscosity, pH, average particle size, D10, D50 and D90 for the ES-free emulsion and the reference emulsion
- Table 3 : Steady-state fluxes (Jss), lag times (tlag) and permeability coefficients (kp) obtained from cumulative amount profiles of caffeine through EpiSkin® RHE samplesDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12772 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lFjiRKOEITkgH-9evR1GnTdiR9H6BvRV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37727
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 262-270[article]HtrA1 and maintenance of epidermis homeostasis / Miyuki Fujishiro in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)
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Titre : HtrA1 and maintenance of epidermis homeostasis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Miyuki Fujishiro, Auteur ; Mariko Yokota, Auteur ; Shoichi Yahagi, Auteur ; Satoru Hashimoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 79-82 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epiderme
Erable et constituants
Etudes cliniques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
HoméostasieL'homéostasie (du grec "hómoios", "similaire", et "stásis", "stabilité, action de se tenir debout") est la capacité que peut avoir un système quelconque (ouvert ou fermé) à conserver son équilibre de fonctionnement en dépit des contraintes qui lui sont extérieures.
L'homéostasie est la maintenance de l'ensemble des paramètres physico-chimiques de l'organisme qui doivent rester relativement constants (glycémie, température, taux de sel dans le sang, etc.).
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptidases
SérineLa sérine est un acide-α-aminé en C3, homologue hydroxylé de l'alanine.
C'est un acide aminé aliphatique hydroxylé, dont le nom en nomenclature systématique est acide 2-amino-3hydroxypropanoïque. Il est présent dans la plupart des protéines et c'est l'un des 20 acides aminés naturels les plus courants sur terre. C'est un acide aminé polaire, faiblement acide à cause de sa fonction alcool primaire en beta. Le groupement OH de la chaîne latérale peut être estérifié en présence d'un groupement phosphate.
La sérine a pour codons : AGU, AGC, UCA, UCU, UCG, UCC.
La D-Sérine, synthétisée par la sérine racémase à partir de L-serine, sert de signal neuronal en activant le récepteur NMDA dans le cerveau.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : HtrA1 is serine protease which has been identified in the epidermis. Although the precise function of HtrA1 in the epidermis is still unclear, some reports have suggested that HtrA1 is involved in programmed cell death, apoptosis and anoikis.
On the other hand, it is generally known that excess apoptosis caused by UVB exposure is involved in the accumulation of cell damage in the skin epidermis, and it adversely affects skin epidermis homeostasis that causes chronic cell inflammation and parakeratosis. However, the precise mechanism underlying how UVB induced apoptosis adversely affects epidermal alterations has not been elucidated. This study aims to clarify the behaviour of HtrA1 in the apoptosis of epidermal cells induced by UVB exposure. Furthermore, we evaluated the efficacy of Japanese maple extract, a potent inhibitor of HtrA1 we found through this study.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cell culture - UVB source and irradiation - Wester blotting for HtrA1 - Inhibition against proteolytic activity of HTRA1
- INHIBITORY EFFECT OF JAPANESE MAPLE EXTRACT ON APOPTOSIS : Measurement of VEGF secretion
- CLINICAL TEST
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : UVB-induced HTRA1 secretion in NHKs - Inhibitory effect of Japaneses maple extract on HtrA1 activity - Inhibitory effect of Japanese maple extract on apoptosis
- CLINICAL TEST : HtrA1-induced VEGF secretion in JHKs - Inhibitory effect of Japanese maple extract on VEGF releaseEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/160uhWRBGIiHNMZDpAQWW6-iShrc5arIh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29329
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 79-82[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19098 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible In vitro assessment of sunscreen photostability : The effect of radiation source, sunscreen application thickness and substrate in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999)
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Titre : In vitro assessment of sunscreen photostability : The effect of radiation source, sunscreen application thickness and substrate Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 341–351 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epiderme
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photostabilité
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm inline image was used, and whether the UV source was natural sunlight or a xenon arc solar-simulator. There were significant differences, however, between results obtained on a roughened quartz substrate and those obtained on excised human epidermis. It is unlikely that any substrate will give an exact representation of the in vivo situation and, indeed, both quartz and excised human epidermis have disadvantages associated with their use. However, the ranking of the four products in terms of their photostability was the same for both substrates. This implies that transmission spectroscopy, with either a quartz or a human epidermis substrate, can be used successfully to compare the photostabilities of different sunscreen products. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26478
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999) . - p. 341–351[article]Influence of cosmetic formulations on the skin's circadian clock in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)
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Titre : Influence of cosmetic formulations on the skin's circadian clock Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 313-319 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Epiderme
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Rythmes circadiensIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The circadian rhythm was set into focus by awarding the Nobel Price of Physiology/Medicine to Jeffrey Hall, Michael Rosbash and Michael Young in late 2017. Numerous publications elucidated the molecular mechanisms driving the circadian biorhythms of our body, peripheral organs and each single cell. However, there is minor knowledge on the circadian rhythm of the skin, which has its own peripheral circadian clock in contact with cosmetic formulations. The skin's epidermal clock is excessively influenced by environmental factors like UV radiation or modern lifestyle, which may induce epidermal jetlag. Here, we give an overview on the current knowledge about the epidermal circadian clock and provide a cosmetic solution to protect and preserve the biorhythm of the skin.
- Methods : Quantitative RT-PCR to analyse the gene expression of circadian clock genes and the downstream DNA repair gene OGG1 in keratinocytes irradiated with UV-B. In vivo study to determine skin parameters dependent on the circadian cycle and interference of cosmetic formulations to them by assessment of morning and evening values at each measurement day after 28, 56 and 84 days of the study.
- Results : UV-B irradiation leads to a pronounced delay in circadian clock and downstream gene expression which interferes in the proper function of epidermal stem cells and as thus skin function. The use of a cosmetic active ingredient prevents cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation, protects epidermal stem cells and resets the circadian gene expression. It preserves the circadian changes in skin hydration, reduces daily fluctuations of skin redness and strengthens the skin barrier.
- Conclusion : The skin has its own circadian biorhythm to gain full functionality. Interruption of this oscillation will lead to functional impairments. Here we show a cosmetic solution to protect and preserve the skin's circadian rhythm. DNA protection, ROS elimination and stimulation of circadian gene expression seem to be crucial to keep the skin in balance.Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The central circadian clock - The biochemical steering of the circadian clock - The circadian clock in the epidermis - UV radiation impacts the circadian clock - Epidermal Jetlag - A cosmetic active to preserve the skin’s circadian clock
- MATERIALS AND METHODS
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Gene expression of circadian genes - Circadian changes in human skin parameters - Final discussion: Can we draw circadian conclusions from the data ?DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12623 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JSsX3C6jU_HqWYRib6rpAfv4SA8K9PAG/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35282
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 313-319[article]Lemon (Citrus limon, Burm.f.) essential oil enhances the trans-epidermal release of lipid- (A, E) and water- (B6, C) soluble vitamins from topical emulsions in reconstructed human epidermis / Luca Valgimigli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 4 (08/2012)
[article]
Titre : Lemon (Citrus limon, Burm.f.) essential oil enhances the trans-epidermal release of lipid- (A, E) and water- (B6, C) soluble vitamins from topical emulsions in reconstructed human epidermis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luca Valgimigli, Auteur ; S. Gabbanini, Auteur ; E. Berlini, Auteur ; E. Lucchi, Auteur ; C. Beltramini, Auteur ; Y. L. Bertarelli, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 347-356 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée
Antioxydants
Epiderme
Huiles essentielles
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
VitaminesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : La biodisponibilité topique des vitamines liposolubles et hydrosolubles est un enjeu crucial pour les formulations anti-âge ou avec effet protecteur.
Avec l’utilisation de SkinEthic®épiderme humain reconstitué (âgé de 17 jours) nous avons étudié (à 34°C) le rôle de l’huile essentielle de citron dans l’amélioration de la pénétration de ?-tocophérol (E) et l’acétate de rétinol (A), pyridoxine (vitamine B6) et acide ascorbique (C) libérés à partir d’émulsions O/W ou W/O. D-limonène, ?-pinène et le p-cymène (65.9, 2.2 et 0.5% p/p de l’huile) avaient les coefficients de perméabilité cutanée Ps (10?3cm h?1) de 0.56 ± 0.03 (ou 0.73 ± 0.02), 0.72 ± 0.05 (ou 0.98 ± 0.05), 0.84 ± 0.04 (ou 1.14 ± 0.04), respectivement, lorsqu’ils sont incorporés dans une émulsion W/O (ou O/W). Les vitamines B6, C et A avaient des valeurs de Ps de (3.0 ± 0.4) × 10?3, (7.9 ± 0.6) × 10?3, (0.37 ± 0.02) × 10?5 cm h?1, respectivement, et le flux à travers la peau a été renforcée par un facteur de 4.1, 3.4 et 5.8 respectivement, en présence de l’huile essentielle de citron. La pénétration de la vitamine E a été renforcée par un un facteur de 9. L’huile essentielle de citron produit seulement modification réversible de la TEWL et il améliore la pénétration topique de vitamines hydrosolubles et liposolubles de façon sûre et efficace.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of the topical formulations (donor) - GC-MS analysis - Assay procedure (Preparation of reconstructed human epidermis - Composition of receptor solution - Diffusion experiments - HS-SPME procedure for GC-MS analysis of diffused terpenes - HPLC-DAD analysis of diffused vitamins) - TEWL measurements - Calculations and statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : The choice of temperature - Permeation of lemon EO components through RHE - Suitability of the RHE skin model - Role of the lemon EO in enhancing vitamins' diffusion kinetics - TEWL measurements - Study limitations and transferability of kinetic dataDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00725.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00725.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15641
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 4 (08/2012) . - p. 347-356[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 14080 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Liposomes, nanoémulsions de phosphatidylcholine / J. Gareiß in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 131 (11/1996)
PermalinkMass spectrometry-based proteomics reveals the distinct nature of the skin proteomes of photoaged compared to intrinsically aged skin / V. L. Newton in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 2 (04/2019)
PermalinkModèles d'épiderme 3D pour des cibles spécifiques / Mickaël Puginier in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2019)
PermalinkLes mousses : un modèle unique de bio-inspiration / Katharina Kappler in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-série (12/2021)
PermalinkN° 131 - 06/2018 - Microbiome, bactéries, biomimétisme (Bulletin de COSMETO VEILLE) / Julien Romestant
PermalinkNaturally mobilize the senses into the skin / Sandrine gofflo ; S. Le Davadic ; Emilie Lasjaunias ; Brigitte Closs in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)
PermalinkNew ex-vivo method for evaluating the photoprotective efficacy of sunscreens / G. Marginean in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 17, N° 6 (12/1995)
PermalinkA plant oil-containing pH 4 emulsion improves epidermal barrier structure and enhances ceramide levels in aged skin / Jürgen Blaak in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 3 (06/2017)
PermalinkPreliminary performance data of the RHE/IL-18 assay performed on SkinEthic™ RHE for the identification of contact sensitizers / Eric Andres in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 2 (04/2017)
PermalinkRééquilibrer le pH des peaux sensibles / Alexandre Skibniewski in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (11/2011)
PermalinkRégulation de la différenciation épidermique in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 167 (10-11/2002)
PermalinkStimulation of epidermal basal cells for a renewed skin / Alicia Giménez in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 9 (09/2017)
PermalinkStimuler les kératinocytes : nouvelle stratégie cutanée anti-âge / Sekyoo Jeong in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-série (12/2020)
PermalinkTargeting keratinocytes to protect skin barrier function / Joan Gonzà lez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 2 (04/2016)
PermalinkThe human melanocyte and melanoblast populations per unit area of epidermis in the rete ridge are greater than in the inter-rete ridge / Tomohisa Hirobe in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
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