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An active ingredient derived from picrorhiza scrophulariiflora roots for prevention and limitation of hair greying : what’s about self-esteem and mood ? / R. Boutin in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 11 (11/2020)
[article]
Titre : An active ingredient derived from picrorhiza scrophulariiflora roots for prevention and limitation of hair greying : what’s about self-esteem and mood ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. Boutin, Auteur ; J. B. Guyon, Auteur ; C. Boutot, Auteur ; E. Ranouille, Auteur ; L. Poulet, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; Edith Filaire, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 22-27 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs antidécoloration
Biomolécules actives
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair greying is one of the phenotypic changes during ageing, cosmetic research focusing on preventing or limiting this process. The aim of this investigation was to evaluate 1) using an in vitro model, the effect of Picrorhiza scrophulariiflora roots (PsR) extract versus placebo on oxidative stress and melanogenesis pathway 2) using a clinical study, the efficacy of PsR extract to restore white / greyed hair to its natural color. Two parallel groups of 44 volunteers (29 females and 15 men) with 20% to 50% of white hair (Mean age: 49 years) either applied PsR extract 1% or placebo on hair and scalp twice a day during 154 days. Evaluation of PsR extract efficacy was analyzed after 77 days and 154 days by 1) a measure of the density (number·cm-2) of white hair 2) a self-assessment questionnaire. Self-esteem and emotion were investigated using the Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale and the Brief Mood Introspection Scale. In vitro results showed that PsR extract increases significantly melanin synthesis, enhances the expression of antioxidant genes and reduces oxidative stress. PsR extract treatment restores the natural hair color (measuring by grey hair density), increases significantly self-esteem and modulates emotional valence, by significantly decreasing unpleasant emotions. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Preparation of extract - In vitro test - In vivo clinical study
- RESULTS : In vitro results - In vivo resultsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1giVyHs3iGG4ke5c08KkerAXl9XC1g4qx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34916
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 11 (11/2020) . - p. 22-27[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22370 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible An active ingredient from Anogeissus leiocarpus / François Montricol in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)
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Titre : An active ingredient from Anogeissus leiocarpus : The link between sustainable development and collagen synthesis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : François Montricol, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 40-44 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Collagène -- Synthèse
Développement durable
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dakaline is an extract of a sacred tree of Burkina Faso (Africa), Anogeissus leiocarpus, is a multifunctional anti-aging active ingredient reducing time damages. The leaves, roots and bark are widely used for medical treatments.
Supplying this plant from Burkina Faso is ensured by strict rules with respect to environment, economical and social development. All these considerations make Dakaline a part of sustainable development.
Dakaline composition is unique and provides remarkable anti-ag-ing properties, relying on an innovative mechanism of action.
• Helps the collagen synthesis by increasing the vitamin C incorporation into the fibroblasts ;
• Has a free radical scavening activity ;
• Prevents collagen and Elastine degradationNote de contenu : - COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS MECHANISM
- VITAMIN C
- FREE RADICAL SCAVENING ACTIVITY : Protocol
- MMP-9 AND MMP-2 : Protocol
- SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT : Economic and social dimension of the project - Environmental dimension of the project
- FIGURES : 1. Collagen synthesis mechanism - 2. Evolution of vitamin C into fibroblasts with age - 3. Vitamin C incorporation analysis - 4. Free radical scavenger activity analysis - 5. MMPs inhibition activity analysisPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30980
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20074 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect / Huey Mei Wang Pamella in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)
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Titre : An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Huey Mei Wang Pamella, Auteur ; Mickael Agach, Auteur ; Majolie Libii, Auteur ; Stéphan Chonez, Auteur ; Sébastien Gregoire, Auteur ; Brittany Lee, Auteur ; Jean-Thierry Simonnet, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 581-591 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation
Chimie analytique
Chimie écologique
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Stabilisants (chimie)
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Vitamine AIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal-chelating properties but are not eco-friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco-friendly stabilization system for retinol-based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy.
- Methods : An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long-term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24-months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation.
- Results : N,N’-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]-EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits.
- Conclusion : Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]-EDDS combination is an eco-friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA.Note de contenu : - Eco-design of formulations for reaching sustainable goals
- New system for stabilizing retinol in formulations
- Pentaerythritol 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate as alternative to BHT
- Impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC combination on retinol
- METHODS AND MATERIALS : Raw materials - SPOT analysis - Formulation protocol - Stability measurements - Absorption of retinol by skin - Clinical evaluation
- RESULTS : Environmental impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - SPOT score of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Effects of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on retinol stability in formulations - Skin absorption of retinol+[S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Beneficial effects of retinol and [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on skinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmvNNWD2_D2eFvzoZ4-lDwII40w-nOaj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40079
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 581-591[article]An underwater journey in search of ingredients / Julia Comas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 3 (06/2017)
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Titre : An underwater journey in search of ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Cristina Davi, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Albert Soley, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 62-64 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants
Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Biotechnologie marine
Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Microorganismes
Plantes marinesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Water comprises over 70% of the Earth's surface and is the home of a considerable amount of organisms that are continuously adapting to their varying surroundings. The seas and oceans entail a great variety of algae with potential skin care benefits and also of microorganisms able to produce specific metabolites that in turn help benefit the skin in different ways. By exploring several marine environments from different locations, a selection of sustainable cosmetic ingredients was obtained and presented under the concept of Marine Beauty. Note de contenu : - Beginning the journey in Mediterranean waters
- Discovering the Atlantic Spanish Islands
- Dipping into the French waters of Brittany
- Exploring the Celtic Sea
- Drifting through the North Sea
- Diving into tropical clear waters
- Cruising the cold ocean of Antartica
- Travelling all the way to New Zealand
- Ending the tour in the Sea of JapanEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ilYqsbZfu3HShkzzFZIeWHhWE6ILICaD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28744
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 3 (06/2017) . - p. 62-64[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19024 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications / Jürgen Blaak in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)
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Titre : An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Jürgen Blaak, Auteur ; Peter Staib, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 1-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras
Antioxydants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Huile d'onagreL'onagre est une plante herbacée bisannuelle de la famille des onagracées. Caractérisée par des fleurs jaunes parfumées, qui s’ouvrent à la tombée de la nuit, elle est surnommée "primevère du soir" et "belle de nuit". Le fruit contient des petites graines noires très riches en acides gras, desquelles sont extraites l’huile d’onagre (réputée pour ses vertus médicinales).
Le nom "onagr" vient de la ressemblance de la forme des feuilles avec celle des oreilles de l’âne sauvage du même nom. Séchée, la racine de l’onagre a une odeur de vin, ce qui expliquerait son étymologie latine "oenothera", du grec oinos (vin) et théro (conserver) (3). Il existe environ 80 espèces d'onagre. La plus répandue est l'onagre bisannuelle (Oenothera biennis). Ses feuilles, racines, fruits et graines sont comestibles.
L'onagre est originaire d’Amérique du Nord. Les Amérindiens la cultivaient pour ses propriétés médicinales. Ils l’utilisaient notamment sous forme de cataplasme contre les affections cutanées. L’onagre est arrivée en Europe au XVIIème siècle. Présentée sous le nom de "panacée du roi", elle est rapidement devenue un remède populaire.
L'huile d’onagre contient des acides gras poly-insaturés de type oméga 6 : plus de 65% d'acide linoléique et 7% à 14% d'acide gamma-linolénique. Elle contient aussi 5 à 11% d’acide gras mono-insaturés de type oméga 9, l'acide oléique, et des acides gras saturés : 2 à 3% d'acide stéarique, 5 à 7% d'acide palmitique. Elle est aussi composée de vitamines E et F, d'acides triterpéniques et de polyphénols. Ces composés lui confèreraient des propriétés antioxydantes et anti-inflammatoires. L'acide gamma-linolénique est un précurseur de la production des prostaglandines E1, qui jouent un rôle dans la baisse de l’inflammation par exemple. L'acide linoléique contrôle les taux de cholestérol.
L’onagre est originaire d’Amérique du Nord. Les Amérindiens l’utilisaient pour ses propriétés médicinales. Riches en divers acides gras et vitamines, la plante aiderait à soulager les démangeaisons de la peau sèche, et agirait comme astringent cosmétique.
Huile essentielle d'amande douce
Huiles et graisses végétales
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Phytostérols
Vitamine EIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as ‘active’ ingredients rather than just providing for so-called ‘natural’ claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever-increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re-evaluate them in this context.
- Method : The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils -Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba – in terms of their cosmetic applications as ‘active’ ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis.
- Results : Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre-clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration and toxicity cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications.
- Conclusion : They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.Note de contenu : - Lipid profile
- Antioxidant profiles
- Dermato-cosmetic effects : Dry and xerotic skinAtopic dermatitis- Other dermatoses- Newborn and juvenile skin - Aged and very old skin
- Formulation considerations
- Table 1 : (A) Key fatty acid composition of sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil and jojoba oil. (B) Key phytosterol content of sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil and jojoba oil
- Table 2 : Tocopherol content of Sweet Almond oil, Evening Primrose oil and Jojoba oilDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12758 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xfq8vY51SkVFidpMSr8322n-Mt3FquCM/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37255
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022) . - p. 1-9[article]Analysis of cosmetic waxes and butters / Jennifer Hermitage in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)
PermalinkAnalysis of 'The trilogy of lifting' / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
PermalinkAnti-âge ou l'avènement du bien-vieillir / Jacques Sebag in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 64 (07-08/2020)
PermalinkAnti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties of tetramethylhexadecenyl succinyl cysteine (TSC): a skin-protecting cosmetic functional ingredient / J. R. Fernandéz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, N° 1 (02/2015)
PermalinkAnti-inflammatory/anti-oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products ? Implications for SPF / Ludger Kolbe in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 3 (06/2019)
PermalinkAnti-pollution benefits of multi-tasking esterquats / Fernando Teodoro in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
PermalinkAnti-pollution efficacy of strawberry ingredient / Chiara Trabattoni in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 10 (11/2023)
PermalinkAnti-pollution : Safeguarding the skin against particulate matter / Annette Mehling in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)
PermalinkAnti-pollution solution that keeps skin beauty / Alicia Giménez in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)
PermalinkApply liberally : challenging sunscreen misconceptions in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
PermalinkApplying the power of living tea plant / Michael Koganov in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04/2013)
PermalinkL'approche multi-fonctionnelle en matière de nouveaux ingrédients cosmétiques / Ginny Chang in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2016)
PermalinkApricot kernel oil from Kyrgyzstan / Angie Martinez in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)
PermalinkArisen from nature : fragrance trends 2017-18 / Falco Choynacki in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)
PermalinkAscorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)
PermalinkAstaxanthin : Red diamond amongst antioxidants / Katharina Dokulil in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 9 (10/2021)
PermalinkAstaxanthin - the red diamond amongst antioxydants / Elisabeth Willeit in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 10 (10/2022)
PermalinkL'auto-adaptation au coeur des textures nouvelle génération / Laurie Dewandel in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2014)
PermalinkPermalinkL'avenir du maquillage selon Univars Solutions / Adam Duxbury in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 63 (05-06/2020)
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