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The botanical approach to sourcing requirements / Bernard Weniger in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (09/2011)
[article]
Titre : The botanical approach to sourcing requirements Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernard Weniger, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 90-92 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Ethique de l'environnement
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Gestion de l'approvisionnement
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Logistique (organisation)
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : One of the major current trends in the cosmetics industry, based on both scientific and “marketing” criteria, is the pronounced aspiration to use an increasing number of plant extracts or natural molecules not used in cosmetic formulations before.
This change involves sourcing issues of plant starting materials and is, by definition, very different from that of synthetic substances. Although access to information of exotic plants from various regions of the world is relatively uncomplicated, this highly diversified sourcing nevertheless must be integrated into a relatively complex, global policy. The path generally followed involves the identification of active molecules and associated mechanisms of action, and requires costly studies to demonstrate efficacy and a lack of toxicity that in some instances do not provide the expected results. The necessity of marketing “renewal” is such that the lifetime of a cosmetic active substance is very short compared to therapeutic or dietetic plant products. This requires making the right choices to ensure a return on investment. This does not include the fact that, before setting up a supply chain for the production of plant starting materials, several criteria must be fulfilled, or at least taken into account and evaluated. This is because commitments to development programmes not fully controlled generally lead to failure that could help discourage future attempts. This contribution to sourcing policy will first address important “upstream” aspects of the industry’s search and selection process for natural ingredients with cosmetic potential. This will be followed by requirements related to agriculture and/or collection practices, providing a number of guarantees required for the quality and traceability of the material. The last point involves placing the accent on social and environmental responsibility.Note de contenu : - Bio-prospecting
- Identity
- Quality and hygiene
- Training and regulatory compliance
- Environmental and social responsabilityPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=12854
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (09/2011) . - p. 90-92[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 13351 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The challenge of producing a vegan formulation in beauty products / Martina Heldermann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 4 (04/2016)
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Titre : The challenge of producing a vegan formulation in beauty products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Heldermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 54-57 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie végétale
Cosmétiques -- Marketing
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Marketing personnalisé
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It's not only food that can be vegan — beauty products can be free of animal byproducts too. But what does that really mean for the formulation ? ... At least one answer from KahlWax.
Formulating natural cosmetics, as all cosmetic scientists know, is challenging. Over the years, the number of raw materials that are suitable for natural cosmetics has grown tremendously, enabling the formulation of natural cosmetics with galenic and sensory properties that are more appealing to the consumer than some years ago. It is still very much a challenge, however, especially when taking into account the price of natural formulations, which tend to be more expensive than non-natural formulations. This is probably one of the main reasons why green washing is still such a common phenomenon in the cosmetics
market. More and more cosmetics manufacturers require raw materials that are not just natural, but also vegan, an attribute that was not originally linked with natural origins, but is now expected by consumers. This makes sourcing and formulation even more complicated, especially given that animal-derived ingredients such as beeswax are not easily replaced.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26692
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18171 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The growing demand for all things natural / Chris Smith in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (06/2014)
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Titre : The growing demand for all things natural Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 53-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement
Cosmétiques pour nourrissons
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is a growing trend for natural-based baby persona! care products and rather than being niche, the trend has been driven by market leading multinational brands. Formulation challenges include ensuring performance, stability and consumer-acceptable aesthetics while replacing some of the key ingredients traditionally used in baby formulations such as minerai oil, petrolatum and SLES with natural-based alternatives. Baby formulations require additional considerations about mildness and safety, perhaps more so than other sectors of the persona! care industry, with 'no tears' and 'hypoallergenic' claims in particular more or less expected. This again poses challenges to formulators in ensuring products not only provide required performance, but tick ail of the required claims substantiation boxes. As discussed in this article, options do exist to replace traditional ingredients and technologies however cost considerations can be a sticking point, and performance may need to be compromised to an extent. Educating consumers with open and detailed information about ingredients has been shown to be beneficial in this sector, and the more such credible public data we see, the better. By spreading positive and science-based justification for the use of various ingredients, we can help tackle some of the ill-informed ingredient scare stories that arise. Note de contenu : - FREE FROM
- MOVEMENT TOWARDS NATURAL FORMULATIONS FROM THE MARKET LEADERS
- FORMULATION CHALLENGES : Leave-on - Rinse-offEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nhrs8XbFxMDcbf8T1GLdCaOQujcXDqxp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21596
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16338 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The natural solution for damaged and curly hair / Lorena Sánchez in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 4 (04/2021)
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Titre : The natural solution for damaged and curly hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorena Sánchez, Auteur ; Cristina Thiebaut, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 57-60 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cheveux frisés
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Oméga 3
Produits naturels
Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet
shampooings
Tests d'efficacité
Vitamine EIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Curly hair has particular characteristics in elasticity and shape that require a special and different care. Curly hair is more fragile than straight hair and therefore requires specific care.
Every day, hair is exposed to a series of external aggressions : brushing, friction, straightening treatments, heat irons, colouring, perms, pollution, UV radiation, etc...
Ethomega, with high content in Omega 3, is an excellent natural active ingredient for promoting faster and healthier hair growth, nourishing the follicles to stimulate their growth and shine.
Ethomega has proven to restore the hair lipids barrier, increase gloss and avoid hair colour fade after UV irradiation, making hair more resistance to breakage and split ends.
Ethomega has high concentrations of delta and gamma-tocopherol, difficult to find in other botanical oils.
Both PUFA and tocopherol content, shield the hair fibres creating a protective film that prevents protein loss caused by UV damage retaining moisture, preventing photo-oxidation, and providing the necessary lipids for the specificities of this type of hair.Note de contenu : - Evaluation of the anti-breakage efficacy : Protocol
- Results
- Evaluation of the UV protection capacity : Protocol - Results
- Evaluation of the nourish/shine efficacy : Protocol - Results
- Fig. 1 : Differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation. Scanning electron microscopy findings for all hair samples. The greater the irradiation time, the greater the damage to the hair surface. African hair showed the most damage to the hair surface
- Fig. 2 : Normalised hair breakage force % change during the study
- Fig. 3 : Hair red colour change during the study after UV radiation + 1% Ethomega shampoo application vs placebo
- Fig. 4 : Hair red colour change during the study after UV radiation + 1% Ethomega conditions application vs placebo
- Fig. 5 : Shininess change during the study
- Fig. 6 : Homogeneity change during the study
- Fig. 7 : Contrast change during the study
- Table 1 : Normalised hair breakage force (product shampoo 1% Ethomega)
- Table 2 : A* evaluation (product shampoo 1% Ethomega)
- Table 3 : Shine evaluation (product 1% Ethomega conditioner)
- Table 4 : Homogeneity evaluation (product 1% Ethomega conditioner)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13PuFQLHHAQYebW7Y-Hc8eZbRluTuWVbL/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35517
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 4 (04/2021) . - p. 57-60[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22625 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The path to natural cosmetics sustainable, resource-saving and well-tolerated / Dmitrij Bogdanov in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 1/2 (01-02/2024)
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Titre : The path to natural cosmetics sustainable, resource-saving and well-tolerated Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dmitrij Bogdanov, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 18-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides organiques
Biomolécules actives
Diols
Emulsifiants
Epaississants
Gélifiants
GlycolsUn glycol ou diol est un composé chimique organique portant deux groupes hydroxyle (-OH).
Lorsque les deux groupes hydroxyle sont portés par le même atome de carbone, on parle de diol géminal. Parmi ceux-ci, on compte par exemple le méthanediol (H2C(OH)2) ou le 1,1,1,3,3,3-hexafluoropropane-2,2-diol ((F3C)2C(OH)2), la forme hydratée de l'hexafluoroacétone.
On parle de diol vicinal lorsque les deux groupes hydroxyle sont en position vicinale, c'est-à-dire attachés à des atomes de carbone adjacents. On compte parmi ceux-ci l'éthane-1,2-diol ou éthylène glycol (HO-(CH2)2-OH), un composant courant des produits antigels ou le propane-1,2-diol (propylène glycol, HO-CH2-CH(OH)-CH3).
Parmi les composés avec des groupes hydroxyles bien plus éloignés on compte le butane-1,4-diol (HO-(CH2)4-OH) ou encore le bisphénol A.
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Matières premières
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With the growing interest in a sustainable and natural skincare routine, natural cosmetics are becoming increasingly important. The term natural cosmetics is not clearly definable, as there is no standardised definition from the legislator. However, consumers have clear expectations : Skin compatibility, predominantly natural raw materials, free from animal testing and environmentally friendly manufacturing practices. This is precisely the mission of Cosphatec GmbH. It has set itself the task of providing skin-friendly and natural raw materials for modern cosmetics that meet the demands of consumers. Many common ingredients in cosmetics are of synthetic origin, sometimes have negative side effects and ultimately persist in nature. To address these issues, Cosphatec offers different categories of raw materials that are naturally sourced, vegan and biodegradable. The categories range from protection of the water phase, protection of the fat phase, thickening agents for galenics to active ingredients for formulations. Almost all raw materials are also COSMOS and NATRUE certified and are produced according to the highest quality standards. Note de contenu : - Water phase protection
- Organic acids
- diols/glycols
- Other natural substances
- Fat phase protection
- Emulsifiers
- Gelling agent/thickener
- Natural active ingredients
- Fig. 1 : length of diols on water solubility and antimicrobial activity with indication respective International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and corresponding Cosphaderm of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and corresponding Cosphaderm products
- Fig. 2 : Lecithin (schematic), oil droplets/lecithin in water and liposome in waterEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kV0d5Lll4n0MPmESX3L_zNfEifJFrxTQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40706
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24427 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The renaissance of heilmoor - A new efficient and sustainable extract / Stefan Fellner in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 1-2 (01-02/2021)
PermalinkThe rise of multifunctional cosmetic ingredients / Balint Koroskenyi in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 7 (07/2022)
PermalinkThree-level green biotech protection of skin collagen / Roberto Dal Toso in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (09/2010)
PermalinkTitrated extracts : innovative solutions for formulators / Carine Quenel in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 5 (11/2012)
PermalinkTranscending skin ethics with a new ethos / Emilio Rubio in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 3 (03/2022)
PermalinkTravaux pratiques. Formulons des produits de maquillage / François Ledoux in L'ACTUALITE CHIMIQUE, N° 323-324 (10-11/2008)
PermalinkTreatt PLC : l'expertise du naturel / Doria Maïz in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 208 (09/2009)
PermalinkTriterpenoidal saponins : a review / Anthony C. Dweck in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 3, N° 2 (06/2010)
PermalinkTrucs et astuces pour des crèmes bio plus sensorielles / Julie Dussauze in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 02 (03-04/2010)
PermalinkUnderstanding natural ingredients and mildness / Barbara Olioso in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
PermalinkUnleashing the power of Nigella sativa black seed oil / Liki von Oppen-Bezalel in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 9 (10/2022)
PermalinkDe l'usage cosmétique de l'huile de pastel / M. Bahhitti in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 137 (11/1997)
PermalinkUsing natural emulsifiers for innovative cosmetics / Caren Abou Saleh in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 9 (10/2022)
PermalinkEn vert et contre tous / Clément Delorme in DOUBLE LIAISON, N° 596 (01/2014)
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