[article]
| Titre : |
Advances in dry skin technology extend beyond the category of cosmetic products |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Kenji Kitamura, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2002 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 177-187 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Activateur de plasminogène
Biomolécules actives
Peau -- Histopathologie
Peau -- Maladies
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Sécheresse cutanéeUne xérose est un dessèchement de la peau.
Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments.
|
| Tags : |
'Peau sèche et rugueuse' 'Activateur de plasminogène' 't-AMCHA' 'Fonction barrière' 'Physiologie la peau acné/boutons' |
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
The prevention and improvement of « rough and dry skin » occupies a key position in the basic function of skin care cosmetics. Therefore, research on skin physiology and the development of active ingredients for products for the treatment of rough and dry skin conditions are important and universal topics.
With the purpose of clarifying the role of internal factors in the process of dry skin occurs, we investigated from a pharmacological perspective as a new experimental strategy. Through this research, we have conceived a new theory explaining how dry skin occurs. Furthermore, on the basis of this theory, we have developed a new effective compound for its treatment.
In order to study on the mechanism by which dry skin occurs, we used anti-inflammatory agents and inhibitors against histological impairment mediators, as well as various substances that were considered to regulate the function of epidermal cells. The results showed that protease inhibitors, especially the plasminogen (PLG) activation system-specific inhibitors, were effective against dry skin caused by extrinsic factor. Furthermore, its effects closely correlated with the inhibition activity against the PLG activation system. In addition, we demonstrated immunohistologically that the PLG activation system, which was only located along the epidermal basal layer of normal skin, was widely distributed throughout all layers of epidermis while dry skin induction. These results strongly suggested that the occurrence of dry skin involves a cause bringing about the over-manifestation of the epidermal PLG activation system, which in turn causes abnormalities in the regulating mechanisms for the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells, and these result in dry skin.
We discovered trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid (t-AMCHA), which was the most effective substance in view of the theory on the occurrence of dry skin. Then we investigated in detail the efficacy of t-AMCHA. The results of our studies confirmed that t-AMCHA strongly suppresses the over-manifestation of the PLG activation system in the epidermis when dry skin was occurring. In addition, t-AMCHA demonstrated superb effectiveness against phenomena caused by dry skin, including the loss of moisture from the horny layer, the increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), accelerated turnover in the horny layer, and the changes in various other indicators such as epidermal hypertrophy. These results strongly supported the effectiveness of t-AMCHA on dry skin.
Based on these research findings, we have further developed a novel active ingredient, t-AMCHA, which is being widely applied to skin care products.
Furthermore, subsequent research on the efficacy of t-AMCHA has confirmed this compound to be effective in promoting restoration and recovery of the barrier function of the stratum corneum, which is a key role of the horny layer.
We have also conducted research on the skin physiology of acne and/or pimples of the pilosebaceus unit, which are the main skin problem for Japanese females in their 20s and 30s. Examination of the skin condition of females who are prone to develop these problems demonstrates a relative lowering of several physiological functions of the horny layer. These results indicate the necessity of incorporating new skin care technology designed to targets improvement on the horny layer function.
With the background, we focused on the effectiveness of t-AMCHA in improving functions of the horny layer and developed new products by incorporating rough rough skin control technology into conventional and basic counter-acne techniques. In-use studies of these products showed favorable results.
Through the application in anti-acne products, research and development of counter rough skin technology as a basic function of skin care products is being extend beyond the category of cosmetic products. |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10641 |
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 177-187
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