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How much sun protection do we need ? / Brian L. Diffey in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 155-159 Titre : How much sun protection do we need ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian L. Diffey, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 155-159 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cancer de la peau Evaluation du risque Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Produits antisolaires Vieillissement cutané Vitamine D Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation exhibits a number of effects on skin, both beneficial and undesirable. The purpose of sun protection should be to minimise the likelihood of adverse effects without undue detriment to the beneficial effects. A strategy is proposed for a rational approach to suncare for people living in countries not known for their sunny climate, which is: â—‹ No need for UV protection in autumn and winter (October through to March in the northern hemisphere) â—‹ Daily skincare (incorporating UV filters SPF 8-15) in spring and summer (April through to September) â—‹ Suncare (SPF>30) on sunny holidays and long periods outdoors on summer weekends Adoption of this strategy should lead to the following outcomes: â—‹ prevention of sunburn â—‹ give about the same lifetime UV exposure as a 35 year old using no sun protection â—‹ reduce the risk of non-melanoma skin cancer by at least 5-fold relative to a non-user of sunscreen â—‹ delay the signs of photoageing â—‹ ensure a moderate exposure to sunshine, especially in late summer and early autumn, to maintain vitamin D status during the winter months. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10634 [article]

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The reproducibility of an in-vitro determination of the UVA INDEX describing the relative UVA protection of sun care products / DGK in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 161-166 Titre : The reproducibility of an in-vitro determination of the UVA INDEX describing the relative UVA protection of sun care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : DGK, Auteur ; Task Force "Sun Protection", Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 161-166 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Produits antisolaires Tags : 'UVA  INDEX'  protection'  'Méthode  de  test  In-vitro'  'Protection  solaire'  Reproductibilité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Due to overexposure to UVA and not only to UVB light significant alterations in damage to human skin were observed. Accordingly, the protection against UVA is a major additional requirement for sunscreens beside the effective prevention of sunburn. Despite the intensive debate on the appropriate measurement and labeling, up to now, no proposal was officially accepted in Europe and US. The recently published determination of the in-vitro PPD protection factor [1] was discerned as a candidate for future, harmonized UVA protection measurement? The method combines the merits of in-vitro as well as of in-vivo determinations. The aim of the present study was to investigate the inter-institutional reproducibility of the new UVA parameter and to determine how to express the UVA protection. Concerning the latter aspect, particular emphasize should be given to the importance of the SPF by describing the UVA protection in relation to the UVB protection efficacy. Seven laboratories participated in the Round Robin study and five marketed sunscreen formulations were tested. The sunscreens were selected to represent the major types of sun protection products. The application amount was fixed at 0.75mg/cm2 for all samples and for all institutes after ensuring in a pretest that the absorbance does not exceed the value of 2.0, because otherwise saturation phenomena could occur. Regarding the calculation of the in-vitro PPD protection factors, a high reproducibility was found. The average standard deviation for all five products was less than 15%. The good correlation between in-vitro and in-vivo PPD factors confirms the relevance of this methods. The UVA INDEX was defined as the relation between the in-vitro PPD factor and the labeled in-vivo SPF. Based on the simple transmission measurement and a calculation that takes into account the in-vivo effectiveness as references, it provides a rapid and valid procedure to evaluate and to differentiate the UVA protection of sunscreens. According to these findings, the UVA INDEX is seen as a potential candidate for UVA determinations. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10639 [article]

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New systems of broad-spectrum UV protection / Uli Osterwalder in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 169-175 Titre : New systems of broad-spectrum UV protection Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Uli Osterwalder, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 169-175 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Tags : 'UVA  absorber'  'Broadband  UV  protection'  'Broad-spectrum  Efficacy  Safety  'Australian  UVA  standard'  'Japanese  PPD Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreens should protect UVB induced sunburns as well as deeper penetrating UVA radiation, which enhance the risk of skin cancer and premature skin aging. UVA protection is realized either by the conventional UVA filter Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM), which has to be stabilized against light-induced decay, by microfine Zinc Oxide (ZnO) or by new photostable chemical entities. The European Commission (EC) recently approved two UVA absorbers (Terephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA) and Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT), and three broad-spectrum UV absorbers (Drometrizole Trisiloxane (DTS), Methylene-bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT). The efficacy of these new UVA/broad-spectrum absorbers is discussed in conjunction with the various UVA assessment methods: The superiority of the new photostable UV absorbers is best documented by in-vivo Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) method. The in-vitro UVA/UVB ratio proves to be a more sensitive measure to characterize broadband behavior than the critical wavelength method. Broad-spectrum filters often show a synergistic effect regarding the SPF in combination with UVB filters. The new UV absorbers give the formulator more flexibility to achieve better formulations. The comparison of three products of similar SPF - all with broadband claim - shows that the degree of UVA protection may very greatly. With the modern, photostable broad-spectrum UV absorbers lower amounts of filter may yield the same protection. The chemical development of modern UV filters has lead to substances with higher molecular weight, which is one parameter besides others that determines the skin penetration of a substance. The rigid criteria of the EC approval process guarantee that these new UV filters can be used safely in the protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10640 [article]

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Advances in dry skin technology extend beyond the category of cosmetic products / Kenji Kitamura in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 177-187 Titre : Advances in dry skin technology extend beyond the category of cosmetic products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kenji Kitamura, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 177-187 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Activateur de plasminogène Biomolécules actives Peau -- Histopathologie Peau -- Maladies Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Tags : 'Peau  sèche  et  rugueuse'  'Activateur  de  plasminogène'  't-AMCHA'  'Fonction  barrière'  'Physiologie  la  peau  acné/boutons' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The prevention and improvement of « rough and dry skin » occupies a key position in the basic function of skin care cosmetics. Therefore, research on skin physiology and the development of active ingredients for products for the treatment of rough and dry skin conditions are important and universal topics. With the purpose of clarifying the role of internal factors in the process of dry skin occurs, we investigated from a pharmacological perspective as a new experimental strategy. Through this research, we have conceived a new theory explaining how dry skin occurs. Furthermore, on the basis of this theory, we have developed a new effective compound for its treatment. In order to study on the mechanism by which dry skin occurs, we used anti-inflammatory agents and inhibitors against histological impairment mediators, as well as various substances that were considered to regulate the function of epidermal cells. The results showed that protease inhibitors, especially the plasminogen (PLG) activation system-specific inhibitors, were effective against dry skin caused by extrinsic factor. Furthermore, its effects closely correlated with the inhibition activity against the PLG activation system. In addition, we demonstrated immunohistologically that the PLG activation system, which was only located along the epidermal basal layer of normal skin, was widely distributed throughout all layers of epidermis while dry skin induction. These results strongly suggested that the occurrence of dry skin involves a cause bringing about the over-manifestation of the epidermal PLG activation system, which in turn causes abnormalities in the regulating mechanisms for the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells, and these result in dry skin. We discovered trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid (t-AMCHA), which was the most effective substance in view of the theory on the occurrence of dry skin. Then we investigated in detail the efficacy of t-AMCHA. The results of our studies confirmed that t-AMCHA strongly suppresses the over-manifestation of the PLG activation system in the epidermis when dry skin was occurring. In addition, t-AMCHA demonstrated superb effectiveness against phenomena caused by dry skin, including the loss of moisture from the horny layer, the increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), accelerated turnover in the horny layer, and the changes in various other indicators such as epidermal hypertrophy. These results strongly supported the effectiveness of t-AMCHA on dry skin. Based on these research findings, we have further developed a novel active ingredient, t-AMCHA, which is being widely applied to skin care products. Furthermore, subsequent research on the efficacy of t-AMCHA has confirmed this compound to be effective in promoting restoration and recovery of the barrier function of the stratum corneum, which is a key role of the horny layer. We have also conducted research on the skin physiology of acne and/or pimples of the pilosebaceus unit, which are the main skin problem for Japanese females in their 20s and 30s. Examination of the skin condition of females who are prone to develop these problems demonstrates a relative lowering of several physiological functions of the horny layer. These results indicate the necessity of incorporating new skin care technology designed to targets improvement on the horny layer function. With the background, we focused on the effectiveness of t-AMCHA in improving functions of the horny layer and developed new products by incorporating rough rough skin control technology into conventional and basic counter-acne techniques. In-use studies of these products showed favorable results. Through the application in anti-acne products, research and development of counter rough skin technology as a basic function of skin care products is being extend beyond the category of cosmetic products. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10641 [article]

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The characterisation of surface area and surface heterogeneity profiles of hair by inverse gas chromatography / Frank Thielmann in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 189-193 Titre : The characterisation of surface area and surface heterogeneity profiles of hair by inverse gas chromatography Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frank Thielmann, Auteur ; Duncan Pearce, Auteur ; Yash K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 189-193 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux -- Anatomie Chromatographie en phase inverse La chromatographie en phase inverse est un type de chromatographie. La base d'une phase inverse est une phase normale sur laquelle des chaînes alkyles (ou autres selon la polarité recherchée) ont été greffées au niveau des groupes silanols (end-capping). En général, la phase stationnaire est majoritairement composée de petites particules de silice sur lesquelles on a greffé des fonctions chimiques, le plus souvent de chaines alkyles à 8 ou 18 atomes de carbones. Les fonctions silanols (Si-OH) qui subsistent engendrent des interactions hydrophiles parasites, qui rendent les résultats non reproductibles surtout pour les molécules basiques. Pour éviter cela, la surface de la silice est généralement recouverte par une fonction méthyle et les fonctions silanols ne sont plus libres mais sous la forme (Si-O-CH3), c'est cette étape que l'on appelle "end-capping". Les fonctions chimiques utilisées pour le "end-capping" peuvent toutefois être de nature très diverses et les colonnes de dernières générations résistant à des pH extrêmes sont généralement "end-capped" avec des fonctions proposant une plus grande gène stérique, tel que le tert-butyle (Si-O-C(CH3)3). Selon le taux de greffage, on obtient une plus ou moins grande résolution. Cette phase est dite "inverse" car de polaire et hydrophile (sans les "greffes"), la phase devient apolaire et hydrophobe. Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Energie de surface Oxydoréduction Traitement chimique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the present paper the surface areas and adsorption potential distributions of nine different hair samples have been determined by Inverse Gas Chromatography (IGC). These samples were subjected to chemical grooming procedures followed by conditioner treatments both of which alter the surface energy of hair. Since surface energy affects the strength of adsorption of molecules on the surface, this can be characterized by determining the adsorption potential distribution of the surface of hair using specific probe molecules. The distribution function reflects the energetic heterogeneity profile of a surface and provides interesting information on the nature and population of surfaces sites of different interaction energy. In this study IGC is shown to be a fast and accurate technique for the determination of these distribution functions. The data can be used to explain the adsorption behavior of various surfactants and conditioners from different formulations and how these surface deposits alter the energy of the fiber surface. The results indicate that chemical reactions such as bleaching (oxidation) and perming (reduction) increase the surface energy of the fiber by increasing the number of acidic anionic groups in the surface of hair and consequently increase the adsorption potential of the surface. The energy of the resulting surface depends on the orientation of adsorbed molecules. For example, coverage of anionic surface by cationic conditioner molecules can result in a decrease in the surface energy because of the projection of lipid chain of the surfactant away from the surface. Although IGC has been used in the study of surface energetics of polymers and fibers, its use in unraveling the surface energetics of hair, especially when hair is subjected to damaging grooming treatments and treatments which alleviate such damage, is novel. This is especially true of bleaching and perming which introduce acidic sites in the hair and treatment with surfactants and conditioners which adsorb on these sites and leave a protective residue in the hair. These residues alter the surface energy of hair. The changes that occur on the outer surface can be determined by wettability measurements. However, the changes that occur by alyerations in porosity (as in perming) and penetration of low molecular weight materials such as surfactants and humectants, and their adsoprtion on the internal surface of hair can be determined only by methods like IGC. The method can be very sensitive depending on the selection of appropriate probe molecules. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10646 [article]

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Heat-Stable Enzymes from Deep Sea Bacteria: A Key Tool for Skin Protection Against UV-A Induced Free Radicals / Karl Lintner in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 195-200 Titre : Heat-Stable Enzymes from Deep Sea Bacteria: A Key Tool for Skin Protection Against UV-A Induced Free Radicals Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Lintner, Auteur ; F. Lamy, Auteur ; C. Mas-Chamberlin, Auteur ; Philippe Mondon, Auteur ; S. Scocci, Auteur ; P. Buche, Auteur ; P. Girard, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 195-200 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : ROS  'detoxifying  enzymes'  'vitamin  E'  'skin  protection' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The protection of the skin against UV-A induced free radical damage has become a major field of research in skin care. UV-A sunscreens and radical scavenging vitamins are presently the most widely used cosmetic ingredients for this purpose. The idea of enlisting natural defense mechanisms such as enzymes is hampered by their inherent instability in cosmetic formulations. The present paper demonstrates that heat stable enzymes with protective properties can be characterized in thermophilic bacteria obtained from oceanic hydrothermal vents. Isolation and study of anti-oxydant properties of these enzymes are described. In vitro and in vivo experiments show that the extremozymes could be a useful alternative or supplement to vitamins in cosmetic formulations. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10648 [article]

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