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New systems of broad-spectrum UV protection / Uli Osterwalder in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)
[article]
Titre : New systems of broad-spectrum UV protection Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Uli Osterwalder, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 169-175 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesTags : 'UVA absorber' 'Broadband UV protection' 'Broad-spectrum Efficacy Safety 'Australian UVA standard' 'Japanese PPD Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreens should protect UVB induced sunburns as well as deeper penetrating UVA radiation, which enhance the risk of skin cancer and premature skin aging. UVA protection is realized either by the conventional UVA filter Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM), which has to be stabilized against light-induced decay, by microfine Zinc Oxide (ZnO) or by new photostable chemical entities. The European Commission (EC) recently approved two UVA absorbers (Terephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA) and Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT), and three broad-spectrum UV absorbers (Drometrizole Trisiloxane (DTS), Methylene-bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT). The efficacy of these new UVA/broad-spectrum absorbers is discussed in conjunction with the various UVA assessment methods: The superiority of the new photostable UV absorbers is best documented by in-vivo Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) method. The in-vitro UVA/UVB ratio proves to be a more sensitive measure to characterize broadband behavior than the critical wavelength method. Broad-spectrum filters often show a synergistic effect regarding the SPF in combination with UVB filters. The new UV absorbers give the formulator more flexibility to achieve better formulations. The comparison of three products of similar SPF - all with broadband claim - shows that the degree of UVA protection may very greatly. With the modern, photostable broad-spectrum UV absorbers lower amounts of filter may yield the same protection. The chemical development of modern UV filters has lead to substances with higher molecular weight, which is one parameter besides others that determines the skin penetration of a substance. The rigid criteria of the EC approval process guarantee that these new UV filters can be used safely in the protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10640
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