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Cork particles in cosmetic, gentle exfoliator from mediterranean forest / Manuela Bermudez Vico in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 4-8 Titre : Cork particles in cosmetic, gentle exfoliator from mediterranean forest Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Manuela Bermudez Vico, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 4-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Billes de plastiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Etudes cliniques Exfoliants Liège Microbilles -- Suppression ou remplacement Particules (matières) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Surcyclage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural, biodegradable, sustainable and more. Cork is a unique material obtained from the bark of Quercus Suber L. and has been used since a long time. Processing of harvesting is respectful for the tree and necessary to maintain its physiological functions completely. Cork is not only destinated for the wine industry but is also important for other areas. In the upcycling movement, and for its multiple benefits in the ecosystem and environmentally friendly, the creation of an exfoliating agent was made. A clinical study of Exfobreeze™ (Quercus Suber Bark), has been done, with the aim of demonstrating the exfoliating capacity of cork particles, and therefore an effective alternative to microplastic scrubs. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Cork structure - Where is it ? - In terms on sustainability - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cork particles - RESULTS : Clinical study En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Un4CItqsB2izWEXeguJpJ0h-GfBf1N-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41052 [article]

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Phyto-squalane from olive oil versus phyto-squalane from sugarcane / Jean-Louis Dieude in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 10-16 Titre : Phyto-squalane from olive oil versus phyto-squalane from sugarcane Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-Louis Dieude, Auteur ; Sonja Gehm, Auteur ; Michael Zschiesche, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 10-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Antiâge:Antirides Canne à sucre et constituants Économie circulaire L'économie circulaire est une expression générique désignant un concept économique qui s'inscrit dans le cadre du développement durable et s'inspirant notamment des notions d'économie verte, d’économie de l'usage ou de l'économie de la fonctionnalité, de l'économie de la performance et de l'écologie industrielle (laquelle veut que le déchet d'une industrie soit recyclé en matière première d'une autre industrie ou de la même). Son objectif est de produire des biens et services tout en limitant fortement la consommation et le gaspillage des matières premières, et des sources d'énergies non renouvelables ; Selon la fondation Ellen Mac Arthur (créée pour promouvoir l'économie circulaire1), il s'agit d'une économie industrielle qui est, à dessein ou par intention, réparatrice et dans laquelle les flux de matières sont de deux types bien séparés ; les nutriments biologiques, destinés à ré-entrer dans la biosphère en toute sécurité, et des intrants techniques ("technical nutrients"), conçus pour être recyclés en restant à haut niveau de qualité, sans entrer dans la biosphère Essais (technologie) Huile d'olive et constituants Ingrédients cosmétiques Oxydation -- Stabilité Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Produits hydratants Squalane Surcyclage Tribologie (technologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Circular beauty refers to sustainable and environmentally friendly beauty practices. It is about using products and processes that conserve natural resources and minimise the ecological footprint. Circular beauty includes supplying products made from circular material streams. In other words, manufactured with fully renewable, recyclable, and biodegradable resources which can be returned to the biosphere. Industrial symbiosis strategy where waste or by-products of one industry become the raw materials for cosmetics is the basis. In the following we present a study about Exolive® Phyto-Squalane, a cosmetic ingredient which is a natural origin ingredient from upcycling processes from the olive oil production. Circular Beauty is a major step towards a more sustainable and responsible beauty industry. By making conscious choices and opting for products and practices that respect the environment and people, we can help create a better future for us all. Note de contenu : - Objective - Test materials - Test methods and testing equipment - Test results : Oxidative stability index - Photostability (UV-light) - Daylight photostability - Free radical stability test - Tribology - Surface tension - Volatility - Skin diffusion factor - Wrinke analysis - Hydration - Trans-epidermal water-loss (TEWL) - Sensory analysis - Discussion of results En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/135WobDkozT7vkI_NZ9X0K_D1faMUfuTq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41053 [article]

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Decoding age reversal : the power of plant peptides and natural growth factors for cutting-edge skincare solutions / Oscar Expósito in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 18-23 Titre : Decoding age reversal : the power of plant peptides and natural growth factors for cutting-edge skincare solutions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Oscar Expósito, Auteur ; Monika Buchholz, Auteur ; Alejandro Guirado, Auteur ; Ana Gallego, Auteur ; Maria Mas, Auteur ; Pau Riera, Auteur ; Daniel Luna, Auteur ; Sara Laplana, Auteur ; Tarik Ruiz, Auteur ; Sandra Ruiz, Auteur ; M. Gibert, Auteur ; M. Molné, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 18-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biotechnologie Cellules souches végétales Centella asiatica Centella asiatica est une espèce de plante herbacée annuelle de la famille des Apiaceae originaire d'Asie et d'Océanie. Elle est utilisée comme plante médicinale dans la médecine ayurvédique et la médecine traditionnelle chinoise. Elle était connue également sous le nom scientifique de Hydrocotyl asiatica L. et différents noms vernaculaires, Gotu kola, Antanan, Pegaga, et Brahmi (ce dernier nom étant utilisé pour différentes espèces dont Bacopa monnieri). Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Fibroblastes Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides végétaux Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Vytrus Biotech harnesses its extensive expertise in plant regeneration science, built over a decade, to tap into the power of totipotent plant cell cultures for innovative cosmetic solutions. Based on in-house knowledge, Vytrus has shown many similarities in tissue regeneration processes between plants and animals, also identifying several small signalling peptides from Centella asiatica stem cells (plant oligopeptides) involved in growth and division processes. These plant-derived peptides are particularly effective in rejuvenating ageing human dermal fibroblasts, showcasing growth factor-like activities that are pivotal for skin renewal and anti-ageing effects. The profound impact of these phyto-peptidic fractions on ageing skin cells is evident in their ability to not only slow down the ageing process but also to promote cell proliferation. This breakthrough signifies a monumental leap in anti-ageing skincare, bridging the gap between natural plant science and cutting-edge biotechnological advancements. In vitro and in vivo studies confirm the potential of these peptides to reverse the ageing signs in fibroblasts, offering a natural yet powerful approach to combat skin ageing. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : reversing skin ageing through natural plant stem cell biotechnology - Naturally enhanced efficacy of natural plant peptides - CENTELLA REVERSA : growth-like factors that revert cell senescence - BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY : In vitro : Wound healing : regenerative properties in HDF - Cell proliferation and senescence reversal in human dermal fibroblasts cultures - The effect of Centella Reversa on cell proliferation and detoxification - Beneficial effects on DNA protection and re-shaping of cell morphology - CLINICAL EVALUATION : In vivo : Biomechanical properties and skin wrinkles - Facial complexion analysis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DtLb3QgFUuuCvy48rU4Kg_jm6fneISgz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41054 [article]

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A new class of tyrosinase inhibitors for skin luminosity / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 24-28 Titre : A new class of tyrosinase inhibitors for skin luminosity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Loya Schoeffel, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti tyrosinase Antienzymes Clarté de la peau Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation de la peau Soins de beauté Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Although some skin-lightening cosmetic raw materials already exist, their effectiveness particularly on human tyrosinase has not been directly measured in every case or has not shown convincing performance in-vitro. Some active ingredients are even irritating to the skin and are restricted accordingly by some cosmetics legislations. The search for new, skin-friendlier skin-lightening raw materials has led to the development of promising candidates in recent years. Here we present a barley germ extract containing a new class of active ingredients - hordatines - with superior tyrosinase inhibition properties. The great potential of these molecules was revealed with the help of artificial intelligence by molecular docking to the tyrosinase structure. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Tyrosinase is the key enzyme that determines the pigmentation of the skin and the intensity of pigment spots - Table 1 : Inhibition values for various tyrosinase inhibitors En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WtaUF2o6wQs01TAEXoGTBLZkq-G_4NSK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41055 [article]

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A revolutionary solution development for scalp care through scalp microbiome rebalancing / Hosam Ki in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 30-33 Titre : A revolutionary solution development for scalp care through scalp microbiome rebalancing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hosam Ki, Auteur ; Sangmin Kang, Auteur ; Jeunghi Han, Auteur ; Young Soo Kim, Auteur ; Yang Gyu Choi, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 30-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Inhibition microbienne Microbiome cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Humans are influenced and caused illness by various microbes in their lives. Human skin basically serves to protect external stimuli first, and each part has a different role, and the role varies depending on each part of the body. The scalp also belongs to human skin and serves to protect the head from external stimuli. Scalp damage is caused by endogenous factors such as eating habits, heredity, and drinking, and exogenous factors such as ultraviolet rays and seasonal changes. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the microbiome of healthy and problematic scalps to separate useful and harmful bacteria and determined whether the ‘Scalp-Biome’, useful bacteria ferment could be used to restore balance to the scalp microbiota. - METHODS : The diameter of the inhibition zone was measured to determine whether there was an inhibitory effect on the growth of harmful bacteria and whether useful bacteria did not affect growth through a disk diffusion test. Clinical evaluation was conducted to scalp dead skin cells and redness on 20 women (average age 52 years) after approval by the Information of Institutional Review Board at the Korea Dermatology Research Institute. - RESULTS: It was confirmed that ‘Scalp-Biome’ selectively inhibits the proliferation of harmful bacteria through in vitro assay. Furthermore, it has been confirmed that ‘Scalp-Biome’ improved scalp elasticity by 25.74%, decreased redness by 37.62%, decreased dandruff by 17.63%, decreased itching by 47.5%, and increased anti-oxidation of scalp exfoliation by 14.98% compared to placebo. - CONCLUSION : 'Scalp-Biome' was developed to inhibit the proliferation of harmful bacteria while nurturing the useful bacteria at the same time – which is different from the chemical material inhibits a broad spectrum of the microbiome, leading to a rebalancing of microbial populations and improving the scalp environment and scalp anti-aging effects. Therefore, ‘Scalp-Biome’ developed with scalp microbiome technology is expected to be a splendid solution to recover scalp health, which will eventually have a positive effect on hair health. Note de contenu : - Composition and technical specifications - Mechanism of action - Effectiveness : In vitro studies - In vivo studies - Safety - Applications and methods of use - In a nutshell - Table 1 : Properties of'Scalp-Biome' En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DSCy_DiYKDz7ljr7smoEZ4fQl0oWzFoy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41056 [article]

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Cosmetic R&D : Is there sufficient space for innovation ? / Iwona Bialas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 36-41 Titre : Cosmetic R&D : Is there sufficient space for innovation ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Iwona Bialas, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 36-41 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Innovations Recherche industrielle Règlements (droit administratif) Règlements de sécurité Responsabilité environnementale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The cosmetic industry, traditionally a realm of rapid innovation and trend-setting, is currently facing a multitude of challenges. This sector is striving to maintain the balance of maintaining product novelty while conforming to increasingly rigorous environmental and regulatory standards. The challenges are diverse. On one hand, there’s a compelling need to align with the EU’s Green Deal objectives, emphasizing sustainability and environmental responsibility. On the other hand, the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic, along with the geopolitical tensions in Eastern Europe, notably the Russian invasion of Ukraine, have left profound impacts. These events have caused supply chain disruptions and complicated business relations, prompting many companies to reassess their operational strategies. Besides this, as a driving force of change, we can add also: the rapid digital transformation and constantly active chemophobic nature of the consumers demands, which results in the specific chemicals management decisions. We observe yearly at least a few of ingredients which are restricted or banned for use in cosmetic. In the same time the new ingredients authorizations are scarce, which results from the legislative paradox of article 18 and the toxicological dossier demands for authorisation. Hopefully, with the new risk assessment methodologies, there is a glimmer of hope for the approval of new ingredients. As a result of these complex issues, the industry has shifted from long-term operating strategies to an agile management model, particularly in product development technology. There’s a burgeoning curiosity about how Research and Development (R&D) departments are coping in this demanding world. To gain insight into these dynamics, we conducted the “Technologist Needs Survey” with representatives from the Polish cosmetic industry. The first round of this survey was carried out in the first half of 2020, a time when the full impact of the coronavirus pandemic in Poland was not yet apparent, and then it was repeated in second quarter of 2023. The responses shed light on the unique challenges faced by companies. Note de contenu : - Survey representatives characterisation - Actual, main R&Ds challenges - Cosmetic ingredients exploration : seeking of innovation and defined quality demands - Regulatory challenges in the cosmetics industry - Workload associated with regulatory changes - Fig. 1 : Characteristics of the respondent group - Fig. 2 : The biggest challenges in the technologist’s life from most important to least important - Fig. 3 : Cosmetic ingredients exploration - Fig. 4 : Raw materials portfolio quality demands - Fig. 5 : How much time does ingredients current legal status monitoring take for you ? - Fig. 6 : Current workload related to reformulations, adaptation to legal changes ? - Fig. 7 : A. Information about ingredient legislation changes is reaches you quickly enough? B. Are there situations when the need for reformulation (re- sulting from regulatory changes) is identified too late? C. Assess the level of organization of PIFs in your company En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dYbz8ubleV9Wa0C-oU9L7_9u29C4X8nv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41057 [article]

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Thickening and foaming performance of surfactant formulations / Jochen Kleinen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 42-47 Titre : Thickening and foaming performance of surfactant formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jochen Kleinen, Auteur ; Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 42-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères Cosmétiques Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Micelles Moussage (chimie) Rhéologie shampooings Sulfates -- Suppression ou remplacement Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A frequently used approach to obtain the desired flow behavior of surfactant formulations is to utilize the surfactant aggregates themselves. This can be done by converting spherical micelles to worm-like micelles by addition of a hydrophobic thickener; additionally, the surfactant aggregates can be bridged by using hydrophilic, associative thickeners. Challenging in this respect are formulations which are sulfate-free and/or contain short-chain surfactants. In order to understand the rheological behavior and how to build viscosity in such formulations, one needs to go beyond the limits of mechanical rheology, i.e. by using microrheology. An additional challenge – at first sight unrelated to the rheology – is the foaming performance. It will be shown that the foamability can be well predicted by a rheological characterization of dilutions, specifically the determination of the normal force at high shear rates. This method can also explain why formulations containing biopolymers are challenging when it comes to foaming performance. Note de contenu : - Rheology of formulation containing worm-like micelles - Hydrophobic thickeners - Associative thickeners - Rheological properties needed forgood foaming ? - Normal force after dilution - Sulfate-free formulations - Dilution of formulations thickened via pH value - formulations containing biopolymers - Table 1 : Guideline formulation for a sulfate-free shampoo En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13IlK79EyxGRK-d1zo_2lniPuYof_objn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41058 [article]

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Gemini surfactants in cosmetics and detergents / Vladimir Kuimov in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024) . - p. 48-53 Titre : Gemini surfactants in cosmetics and detergents Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Vladimir Kuimov, Auteur ; Nadezhda Balavina, Auteur ; Maxim Mironov, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 48-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Détergents Ingrédients cosmétiques Mains -- Soins et hygiène Mousse (chimie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits nettoyants Surfactants Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today, one of the priority tasks for sustainable development of innovative industrial companies producing household chemicals and cosmetics is the development of environmentally friendly personal care formulation. The use of efficient, sustainable and safe raw materials has trended towards more efficient and environmentally friendly formulations. However, a major challenge remains is to reduce concentration of surface-active surfactants (hereinafter surfactants) in wastewater and to increase their biodegradability. The aim of detergent manufacturers is therefore to reduce the amount of surfactants in detergents without compromising their effectiveness. To solve this challenging problem, highly efficient and environmentally friendly dimeric (Gemini) surfactants can be used. Note de contenu : - WHAT ARE GEMINI SURFACTANTS - PROPERTIE OF BPX-GEZ USED AS ADDITIVES IN SURFACTANTS : Turbidity reduction - Increase in foam level - Increase in emulsifying ability - Recommended doses - COSMETIC USE : Face and hands washing foam - Increase foam level - Increase in emulsifying ability - recommended doses - HAND WASHING GEL : Improving foaming power and wetting ability - Recommended doses - Fig. 1 : Structure of a gemini surfactant - Table 1 : Model formulation of detergent based on APG 12-14 mixed with BPX-GEZ or BPX-GEA additives - Table 2 : Model formulation of hand washing gel with BPX-GEZ gemini surfactant - Table 3 : Model formulation of hand washing gel with BPX-GEZ gemini surfactant - Table 4 : Model formulation of face and hands washing foam with BPX-GEZ gemini surfactants En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S9Dq4bSYMVx4aHRFo6m_Tiyc1Dk1Psky/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41059 [article]

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