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Alizarin old and new : Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye / Khai Ly Do in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 5-29 Titre : Alizarin old and new : Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Khai Ly Do, Auteur ; Asim Mushtaq, Auteur ; Feng Zhao, Auteur ; Miao Su, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 5-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alizarine L'alizarine est un colorant rouge d'origine végétale, extrait de la racine de la garance des teinturiers (Rubia tinctorum L.), une plante vivace de la famille des Rubiacées, autrefois largement cultivée pour la teinture qu'elle fournissait. Antimicrobiens Antioxydants Antiquités (objets anciens) -- Analyse Colorants végétaux Extraction (chimie) Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Répulsifs (chimie) Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The current study provides the first review of alizarin, a natural dye, in terms of its historical aspects and its potential for functional applications in textiles. The review begins with a brief overview of natural alizarin and its occurrence in Rubiaceae family plants, followed by a discussion of alizarin acquisition from its botanical sources through conventional and advanced extraction methods. A special emphasis of this study is on the identification of natural alizarin colourants in archaeological and cultural textiles by using analytical methods based on reflectance, Raman spectroscopy, mass spectrometry and chromatographic profiles. In addition, the functional properties of natural alizarin, including its antimicrobial activity, anti-oxidant activity, insect repellence and ultraviolet protection, are analysed. This paper summarises the methods for obtaining alizarin for coloration, as well as advanced techniques for detecting alizarin in historical textiles, and potential applications of natural alizarin as a functional textile dye. Note de contenu : - HISTORY AND BOTANICAL PROVENANCE OF ALIZARIN - EXTRACTION METHODS OF ALIZARIN FROM RUBIACEAE FAMILY PLANTS : Conventional extraction methods - Advanced extraction methods - IDENTIFICATION OF ALIZARIN IN HISTORICAL TEXTILES : Reflectance-based methods - Direct analysis in real time - Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy - High-performance liquid chromatography - POTENTIAL APPLICATIONS OF ALIZARIN FOR FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES : Antimicrobial activity - Anti-oxidant activity - Insect-repellent activity - UV-protective activity - Table 1 : Proposed list of plants containing alizarin as a colouring compound - Table 2 : A summary of various methods for alizarin extraction from Rubiaceae family plants - Table 3 : Summary of alizarin identification in historical and archaeological textiles DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12711 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fLCZq7maaS7iQcRwPrJqlYbquisBc5TI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40387 [article]

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A novel near-infrared fluorescent and colorimetric probe for selective detection of Ag+ and Hg2+ / Yuquan Min in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 30-41 Titre : A novel near-infrared fluorescent and colorimetric probe for selective detection of Ag+ and Hg2+ Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuquan Min, Auteur ; Xin Han, Auteur ; Youguo Qi, Auteur ; Lin Jiang, Auteur ; Yanxi Song, Auteur ; Yilin Ma, Auteur ; Hongqi Li, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 30-41 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorimétrie Ions argent Ions mercure Ions métalliques Sondes fluorescentes Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : It is particularly important to develop effective and specific detection methods for harmful metal ions such as the silver ion (Ag+) and mercury ion (Hg2+). In this article, a new near-infrared (NIR) fluorescent probe (N-FP) based on intramolecular charge transfer (ICT) effect was designed and synthesised, which exhibited the characteristics of large Stokes shift (163 nm) and excellent stability. Addition of Ag+ or Hg2+ to the N-FP solution in ethanol/water (9:1, v/v) caused remarkable enhancement of fluorescence emission at 661 nm, bathochromic shift of ultraviolet-visible absorption wavelength, and colour change from orange to red or purple. While adding other metal ions including Li+, Na+, K+, Ag+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Zn2+, Co2+, Ni2+, Mn2+, Sr2+, Ca2+, Mg2+, Al3+, Cr3+ and Fe3+ did not bring about substantial spectral and colour change. The detection limit of the N-FP for Ag+ and Hg2+ was calculated to be 1.1 and 0.72 μM, respectively. The N-FP could be used to recognise Ag+ and Hg2+ in a wide pH range of 1–10. The sensing mechanism was proposed and demonstrated by proton nuclear magnetic resonance (1H-NMR), high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and mass spectrometry (MS) measurements. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and equipment - Synthesis of compound N-OH - Synthesis of the N-FP - Measurement of absorption and fluorescence spectra - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : 3.1 Synthesis and structural characterisation of the N-FP - Fluorescence emission spectra of the N-FP in different solvents - Selectivity of the N-FP for detection of Ag+ and Hg2+ - Anti-interference test on the N-FP for detection of Ag+ and Hg2+ - Study on Ag+ and Hg2+ detection limits by the N-FP - Study on the response time of the N-FP to Ag+ and Hg2+ - Effect of pH on stability and applicability of the N-FP - Comparison of sensing performance of the N-FP with other Hg2+/Ag+ sensors - Study on the detection mechanism of the N-FP - Table 1 : Comparison of performance of different fluorescent probes for mercury ion/silver ion (Hg2+/Ag+) detection DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12687 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jEYF6WkyNLXuFJ3F75h1gC7miTeN7grd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40388 [article]

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Synthesis and application of nonionic Gemini surfactants based on grape seed oil / Kangwei Si in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 42-51 Titre : Synthesis and application of nonionic Gemini surfactants based on grape seed oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kangwei Si, Auteur ; Zhiwei Xu, Auteur ; Xiangdong Zhou, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 42-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants acides Huiles et graisses végétales Mesure Pépins de raisins Polyamide 66 Surfactants -- Synthèse Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : A series of vegetable oil-based nonionic Gemini surfactant (GPNGS) was prepared using grape seed oil and polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether (350, 550, 750) as the primary raw materials. The chemical structures of different types of GPNGS were characterised by Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy, elemental analysis, proton nuclear magnetic resonance and carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance. The critical micelle concentration (CMC) of GPNGS with different polyoxyethylene chain lengths was measured using the Wilhelmy ring method (CMC: ca. 1.4 × 10−4 to 5 × 10−4 mol/L). The results of wettability testing showed that the contact angle of GPNGS on polyamide film was ca. 46-49°. In addition, the interaction of surfactants with acid dyes was also investigated. The ultraviolet spectrum showed a balance between dyes, surfactants and the dye/surfactant complex. Next, the GPNGS was used as a nylon 66 acid dye levelling agent. After adding 0.2 mmol/L of surfactants, the standard deviations (S(λ)) of nylon 66 dyeing decreased from 0.084 to ca. 0.036-0.044, exhibiting a good levelling effect. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Synthesis - Dyeing process of nylon 66 fabric - Measurement - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Elemental analysis - Surface performance - Polyamide acid dyeing - Table 1 : Surface active parameters of GPNGS - Table 2 : The effect of different types of levelling agent on K/S and levelness S(λ) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12689 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jJ2QFloHYYkObwvaRLI8L3tVpnm3dEYE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40389 [article]

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Dyeing properties of polylactic acid fabric with disperse dyes of different structures using decamethylcyclopentasiloxane as non-aqueous media / Yinchun Fang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 52-60 Titre : Dyeing properties of polylactic acid fabric with disperse dyes of different structures using decamethylcyclopentasiloxane as non-aqueous media Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yinchun Fang, Auteur ; Jianguo Wu, Auteur ; Guojie Ma, Auteur ; Qufu Wei, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 52-60 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants dispersés Catégorie de colorants très peu solubles dans l'eau, utilisés à l'origine comme colorants pour l'acétate, et qui généralement sont appliqués sous forme de suspensions aqueuses de faible concentration.Les colorants dispersés sont largement utilisés dans la teinture de la plupart des fibres manufacturées, surtout le polyester. Décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane Polylactique, Acide L'acide polylactique (anglais : polylactic acid, abrégé en PLA) est un polymère entièrement biodégradable utilisé dans l'alimentation pour l'emballage des Å“ufs et plus récemment pour remplacer les sacs et cabas en plastiques jusqu'ici distribués dans les commerces. Il est utilisé également en chirurgie où les sutures sont réalisées avec des polymères biodégradables qui sont décomposés par réaction avec l’eau ou sous l’action d’enzymes. Il est également utilisé pour les nouveaux essais de stent biodégradable. Le PLA peut-être obtenu à partir d'amidon de maïs, ce qui en fait la première alternative naturelle au polyéthylène (le terme de bioplastique est utilisé). En effet, l'acide polylactique est un produit résultant de la fermentation des sucres ou de l'amidon sous l'effet de bactéries synthétisant l'acide lactique. Dans un second temps, l'acide lactique est polymérisé par un nouveau procédé de fermentation, pour devenir de l'acide polylactique. Ce procédé conduit à des polymères avec des masses molaires relativement basses. Afin de produire un acide polylactique avec des masses molaires plus élevées, l'acide polylactique produit par condensation de l'acide lactique est dépolymérisé, produisant du lactide, qui est à son tour polymérisé par ouverture de cycle. Le PLA est donc l’un de ces polymères, dans lequel les longues molécules filiformes sont construites par la réaction d’un groupement acide et d’une molécule d’acide lactique sur le groupement hydroxyle d’une autre pour donner une jonction ester. Dans le corps, la réaction se fait en sens inverse et l’acide lactique ainsi libéré est incorporé dans le processus métabolique normal. On obtient un polymère plus résistant en utilisant l'acide glycolique, soit seul, soit combiné à l’acide lactique. Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Polylactic acid (PLA) fibre, as a renewable and biodegradable synthetic polymer, is attracting increasing attention in the field of textiles. However, there are still some problems associated with PLA fibre dyeing, with a traditional water bath using disperse dyes restricting its industrialisation. Waterless dyeing, as a green and environmentally friendly dyeing method for PLA fibre, is expected to replace the traditional water bath dyeing method. However, the disperse dyes suitable for PLA fibre are different from those that are suitable for traditional poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibre. In the current study, the waterless dyeability of PLA fibre using disperse dyes with different chemical structures, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) as the media, was investigated. First, the optimal dyeing process conditions of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and liquor ratio for PLA waterless dyeing were determined. The results indicated that the most suitable dyeing process conditions were: a dye concentration of 5%, dyeing temperature and time of 120°C and 40 minutes, respectively, and a liquor ratio of 1:10. Next, PLA was dyed with 10 disperse dyes with different structures using the determined optimum dyeing process conditions to compare their dyeing properties. The results showed that there were obvious differences in the K/S values for PLA dyed with dyes of different structures. The K/S values for PLA dyed with monoazo structure dyes were significantly higher than those for anthraquinones and heterocyclic structure dyes. Disperse dyes with a monoazo structure are suitable for PLA waterless dyeing. This study provides a research basis to develop suitable dyes for waterless dyeing PLA using D5 as the media. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Dyeing process - Characterisation - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Optimisation of the dyeing process conditions - Dyeing property of PLA with disperse dyes of different structures - Table 1 : Chemical structure classes of disperse dyes - Table 2 : Dyeing properties and tensile strength of polylactic acid (PLA) with different dye concentration - Table 3 : Dyeing properties and tensile strength of polylactic acid (PLA) with different dyeing temperatures - Table 4 : Dyeing properties and tensile strength of polylactic acid (PLA) with different dyeing times - Table 5 : Dyeing properties and tensile strength of polylactic acid (PLA) with different liquor ratios - Table 6 : Dyeing properties and tensile strength of polylactic acid (PLA) fabrics with disperse dyes of different chemical structures DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12693 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iUqSSQNRccY141zx2H3N5ljcLzn4vVCA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40390 [article]

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A study of spectral reflectance reconstruction using the weighted fitting algorithm based on the Sino Colour Book / Yuexin Liu in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 61-74 Titre : A study of spectral reflectance reconstruction using the weighted fitting algorithm based on the Sino Colour Book Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuexin Liu, Auteur ; Juan Li, Auteur ; Xin Wang, Auteur ; Xuetong Li, Auteur ; Yang Song, Auteur ; Rong Li, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 61-74 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algorithmes Couleur -- Analyse Spectroscopie de réflectance Index. décimale : 535.6 Couleur Résumé : The spectral reflectance of a colour is its most essential characteristic, and it does not change with changes of equipment or light source. Therefore, the reconstruction of spectral reflectance from parameters such as colour tristimulus value and RGB has attracted the attention of researchers. To avoid the occurrence of metamerism in the colour reproduction process and to achieve the purpose of colour spectral reproduction, the spectral reflectance and the optimal parameters of the reconstruction using the weighted fitting method were discussed experimentally with the colour data measured from the Sino Colour Book as the research object. The results show that the best results are obtained when the weighted fitting parameters are weighted by the third power and eight colour samples are involved in the fitting. The reconstructed spectral reflectance obtained by the weighted fitting method has little variation and high overlap with the actual spectral reflectance obtained at each hue and lightness, thus meets the requirements of practical applications. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Experimental samples: the Sino Colour Book - THEORY : Weighted fitting algorithm - The relationship between spectral reflectance and colour tristimulus values - EVALUATION METHODS : Colour difference - Spectral angle θ - Spectral index k - RMSE of the spectrum - Spectral similarity - Reconstruction pass rate - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Influence of the weighted fitting parameters m and n on the reconstruction effectiveness - Spectral reflectance reconstruction effect evaluation - Table 1 : Influence of the weighting power - Table 2 : Influence of colour sample numbers involved in fitting DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12691 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19OMlDxhoKtj6F2XGerdCwXlHALBvlN9B/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40391 [article]

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Coupling coloration of meta-aramid fabric utilising diazonium salts from weakly basic aromatic amines / Hua Jiang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 75-90 Titre : Coupling coloration of meta-aramid fabric utilising diazonium salts from weakly basic aromatic amines Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hua Jiang, Auteur ; Jixian Song, Auteur ; Zhihua Cui, Auteur ; Weiguo Chen, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 75-90 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromophores Colorants azoïques Diazonium Un diazonium est un cation formé d'un groupe de deux atomes d'azotes en position terminale sur une molécule. La structure R-N≡N+ est également considérée comme un groupe fonctionnel. Fibre aramide Réaction de couplage Sels de diazonium Solidité de la couleur Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Textiles et tissus -- Propriétés mécaniques Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Meta-aramid fibre exhibits poor dyeing performance when treated using conventional dyeing methods. In this study, coloration of meta-aramid fabrics was performed at room temperature utilising diazonium salts from weakly basic aromatic amines and was achieved via in situ construction of azo chromophores on the meta-phenylenediamine moiety. To promote diazonium-salt penetration into the meta-aramid fibre, the pretreatment of meta-aramid fabrics with dimethyl sulfoxide at 55°C for 30 min and the utilisation of methanol were involved during the coloration process. As a result, the fabrics could be coloured with deep, levelled and firm shades of brown series. The azo chromophore is derived from the skeleton of the polyamide chain. Therefore, the coloured fabrics exhibit good resistance to organic solvents as well as good to excellent colour fastness to soaping, rubbing and sublimation. A study of the coloration mechanism revealed that the terminal and middle meta-phenylenediamine moieties serve as the main coupling reaction sites. When treated with a diazonium salt, the highly reactive terminal meta-phenylenediamine moiety reacted first and generated chromophores with an absorption peak in the long-wavelength region. However, such chromophores only contributed a limited colour depth owing to the limited number of the terminals. If excess diazonium salts were used, the main hue can be attributed to the azo chromophores based on the massive middle meta-phenylenediamine moieties, although these moieties are less reactive than the terminal meta-phenylenediamine. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Chemicals and materials - General method for the preparation of diazonium salts from weakly basic aromatic amines - General method for preparation of diazonium salts from strongly basic aromatic amines - Pretreatment of meta-aramid fabric - General coloration procedure - Synthesis of compound 1a - Synthesis of compound 1b - Synthesis of compound 1c - Synthesis of compound 2 - General procedure of high-temperature-high-pressure dyeing method - Determination of colour depths - Colour stripping - Dissolution of meta-aramid fabric - Determination of colour fastness level - Determination of mechanical properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : 3.1 Effect of the diazonium salt structure on the colour depth (K/S) - Effect of pretreatment on meta-aramid fabric characteristics - Role of methanol in the coloration process - Effect of the diazonium salt amount on the colour depth (K/S) - Effect of the coloration time on the colour depth (K/S) - Colour fastness - Colour stripping - Dissolution of meta-aramid fabric - Mechanical properties of coloured meta-aramid fabric - Coloration mechanism - Table 1 : Colour parameters of coloured meta-aramid fabrics - Table 2 : Fastness level of coloured meta-aramid fabrics - Table 3 : Mechanical data for coloured meta-aramid fabrics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12703 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1427fYzy4bYl25AOmfVZSw9_Gn9cahX7R/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40392 [article]

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Natural dyeing of air plasma-treated wool fabric with Rubia tinctorum L. and prediction of dyeing properties using an artificial neural network / Can Eyupoglu in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 91-102 Titre : Natural dyeing of air plasma-treated wool fabric with Rubia tinctorum L. and prediction of dyeing properties using an artificial neural network Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Can Eyupoglu, Auteur ; Seyda Eyupoglu, Auteur ; Nigar Merdan, Auteur ; Zeynep Omerogullari Basyigit, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 91-102 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse morphologique Colorants végétaux Colorimétrie Extraction (chimie) Laine Résistance à l'abrasion Résistance au lavage Technique des plasmas Teinture -- Fibres textiles Traîtements de surface Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : In this study, the ecological dyeing process of wool fabrics was investigated. Wool fabric samples were treated with atmospheric pressure plasma-jet and corona discharge plasma to modify the surface to make the process sustainable and greener. The samples were dyed with the aqueous extract procured from the powdered roots of Rubia tinctorum L. (madder) using the ultrasonic-assisted method. Scanning electron microscopy and Fourier Transform–infrared analysis were performed to investigate the effect of plasma treatment on the physical and chemical properties of wool fibres. The effects of plasma treatment type, plasma treatment parameters and the duration of dyeing on colorimetric and fastness properties were investigated. The etching of the wool fibre surface and roughness after plasma treatment were proven with scanning electron microscopy images. The Fourier Transform–infrared spectra showed that no significant differences in the functional groups of wool fibre occurred after plasma treatment. The experimental results proved that plasma treatment parameters and dyeing time had an effect on the colorimetric and fastness properties of the samples. Furthermore, an artificial neural network model was proposed for estimating the dyeing properties of wool fabrics, namely, L, a, b, K/S, colour change, rubbing fastness (dry) and rubbing fastness (wet). The experimental results show that the proposed model achieves regression values greater than 0.97 for all dyeing properties. The proposed model is successful and can be efficiently used for estimating the dyeing characteristics of wool fabrics. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Dye extraction - Plasma application - Dyeing process - Surface morphology analysis - FTIR analysis - Colorimetric analysis - Fastness analysis - Proposed ANN model - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Scanning electron microscopy analysis - FTIR analysis - Fastness properties - Analysis of colour parameters - Neural network-based results - Table 1 : The washing and rubbing fastness values of the samples - Table 2 : Colour properties of the samples - Table 3 : Regression results of the proposed model for the dyeing properties of samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12700 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O7FIts3_5sVxA2vOu7vIfDTuYTejtya6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40393 [article]

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Dyeing of polyamide fabrics with a reverse micellar system using soybean oil as a solvent / Leticia Fantinati Guimaraes in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 103-113 Titre : Dyeing of polyamide fabrics with a reverse micellar system using soybean oil as a solvent Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Leticia Fantinati Guimaraes, Auteur ; Angelo Granato Granato, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 103-113 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Colorants acides Colorimétrie Emulsions Micelles Polyamides Un polyamide est un polymère contenant des fonctions amides -C(=O)-NH- résultant d'une réaction de polycondensation entre les fonctions acide carboxylique et amine. Selon la composition de leur chaîne squelettique, les polyamides sont classés en aliphatiques, semi-aromatiques et aromatiques. Selon le type d'unités répétitives, les polyamides peuvent être des homopolymères ou des copolymères. Surfactants Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The current study reports the results of non-aqueous dyeing on polyamide fabrics based on a reverse micellar system composed of a stable emulsion of soybean oil, a co-surfactant, a nonionic surfactant and acid dyes. The system does not make use of water or electrolytes and significantly reduces the dyebath volume. The influence of the hydrophilic lipophilic balance of the surfactants was evaluated, and it was found that the more hydrophilic the surfactant, the better the interaction of the reverse micellar emulsion with the substrate and, consequently, the greater the resulting colour strength. The co-surfactant plays an important role in the system, as its proportion to the surfactant/oil mixture is directly related to better exhaustion of the dyebath. The results were compared with those from a conventional water-based dyeing system. Colour matching was performed using the CIELab colour difference formula (ΔE) measured by a reflectance spectrophotometer. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Micellar emulsion preparation - Characterisation of reverse micelles - Scanning electron microscopy - Reverse micellar dyeing - Conventional aqueous dyeing - Colour measurements - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : TEM - Influence of the bath ratio - Influence of the surfactant to co-surfactant ratio - Influence of the HLB of the surfactant - Scanning electron microscopy - Colour fastness to rubbing/crocking and to washing - Table 1 : Hydrophilic–lipophilic balance (HLB) values of the surfactants - Table 2 : Colour difference (ΔE) values for micellar dyeing with different surfactants - Table 3 : Tinctorial power related to conventional aqueous dyeing with C.I. Acid Blue 260 - Table 4 : Tinctorial power related to conventional aqueous dyeing with C.I. Acid Yellow 127 - Table 5 : Tinctorial power related to conventional aqueous dyeing with Acid Red G - Table 6 : Colour fastness to rubbing/crocking - Table 7 : Colour fastness to rubbing/crocking - Table 8 : Colour fastness to rubbing/crocking - Table 9 : Colour fastness to washing - Table 10 : Colour fastness to washing - Table 11 : Colour fastness to washing DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12702 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SLuyk78tIi5eJ-bea0iCsHCvJ2agTdXA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40394 [article]

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Insights into the dyeing using natural indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) : Toward an environmentally friendly garment / Luciana M. C. Silva in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 114-124 Titre : Insights into the dyeing using natural indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) : Toward an environmentally friendly garment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luciana M. C. Silva, Auteur ; Patricia Dos S. Silva, Auteur ; Caroline S. Pagnan, Auteur ; Eliane Ayres, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 114-124 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cationisation Chitosane Le chitosane ou chitosan est un polyoside composé de la distribution aléatoire de D-glucosamine liée en ß-(1-4) (unité désacétylée) et de N-acétyl-D-glucosamine (unité acétylée). Il est produit par désacétylation chimique (en milieu alcalin) ou enzymatique de la chitine, le composant de l'exosquelette des arthropodes (crustacés) ou de l'endosquelette des céphalopodes (calmars...) ou encore de la paroi des champignons. Cette matière première est déminéralisée par traitement à l'acide chlorhydrique, puis déprotéinée en présence de soude ou de potasse et enfin décolorée grâce à un agent oxydant. Le degré d'acétylation (DA) est le pourcentage d'unités acétylées par rapport au nombre d'unités totales, il peut être déterminé par spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Fourier (IR-TF) ou par un titrage par une base forte. La frontière entre chitosane et chitine correspond à un DA de 50 % : en deçà le composé est nommé chitosane, au-delà, chitine. Le chitosane est soluble en milieu acide contrairement à la chitine qui est insoluble. Il est important de faire la distinction entre le degré d'acétylation (DA) et le degré de déacétylation (DD). L'un étant l'inverse de l'autre c'est-à-dire que du chitosane ayant un DD de 85 %, possède 15 % de groupements acétyles et 85 % de groupements amines sur ses chaînes. Le chitosane est biodégradable et biocompatible (notamment hémocompatible). Il est également bactériostatique et fongistatique. Le chitosane est également utilisé pour le traitement des eaux usées par filtration ainsi que dans divers domaines comme la cosmétique, la diététique et la médecine. Coton Le coton est une fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers "véritables"(Gossypium sp.), un arbuste de la famille des Malvacées. Cette fibre est généralement transformée en fil qui est tissé pour fabriquer des tissus. Le coton est la plus importante des fibres naturelles produites dans le monde. Depuis le XIXe siècle, il constitue, grâce aux progrès de l'industrialisation et de l'agronomie, la première fibre textile du monde (près de la moitié de la consommation mondiale de fibres textiles). Indigo Résistance au lavage Solidité de la teinture Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Currently, the use of natural indigo dye has been treated as an alternative to overcome the environmental pollution caused by synthetic indigo. Irrespective of the indigo dye source, it must be reduced to its soluble form by using reducing agents in a suitable alkaline environment. Herein, bio-sugars such as glucose or fructose were used for this purpose. The results revealed that when fructose was used instead of glucose, colour strength (K/S) values increased. In this work, cotton was cationised with water-soluble chitosan. Water-soluble chitosan in a wide pH range extends the use of chitosan in textiles, which otherwise is limited due to its poor water solubility at pH above 6.0. Colour fastness washing test was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of cotton cationisation. The performance of cationised samples was around 30% higher in comparison to non-cationised samples. Moreover, in this article we have focused on integrating materials and design. We propose a garment, using natural indigo-dyed cotton and a zero-waste modelling approach, as a sustainable fashion product. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Sample preparation - Sample analyses - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Dyeing with indigo (colour change and colour strength) - Fastness properties - SUSTAINABLE FASHION PRODUCT : Correlation between guidelines for sustainable fashion and the created garment - Table 1 : Reagents used to prepare 100 g of vat dye stock solution - Table 2 : Reagents used to prepare 100 g of dyeing bath - Table 3 : Values of L*, a* and b* and visual aspect - Table 4 : Scores of colour fastness after washing and perspiration tests (colour change and colour transfer) - Table 5 : Scores of colour fastness after light exposure - Table 6 : Correlation between guidelines for sustainable fashion and the created garment DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12704 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11avz4WZi7j9fCWBqM2uPQAz0rv2QEj7r/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40395 [article]

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Knowledge distillation for unsupervised defect detection of yarn-dyed fabric using the system DAERD : Dual attention embedded reconstruction distillation / Hongwei Zhang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 125-143 Titre : Knowledge distillation for unsupervised defect detection of yarn-dyed fabric using the system DAERD : Dual attention embedded reconstruction distillation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hongwei Zhang, Auteur ; Shuaibo Liu, Auteur ; Shuai Lu, Auteur ; Le Yao, Auteur ; Pengfei Li, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 125-143 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Détection de défauts (Ingénierie) Textiles et tissus teints Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Detecting defects of yarn-dyed fabrics automatically in industrial scenarios can improve economic efficiency, but the scarcity of defect samples makes the task more challenging in the customised and small-batch production scenario. At present, most reconstruction-based methods have high requirements on the effect of reconstructing the defect area into the normal area, and the reconstruction performance often determines the final defect detection result. To solve this problem, this article proposes an unsupervised learning framework of dual attention embedded reconstruction distillation. We try to use this novel distillation scheme to provide some contribution to the defect detection field. Firstly, different from the encoder-encoder structure of traditional distillation, the teacher-student network in this article adopts the encoder-decoder structure. The purpose of the student network is to restore the normal feature representation of the pre-trained teacher network. Secondly, this article proposes a dual attention residual module, which can effectively remove redundant information and defective feature information from the teacher network through the double feature weight allocation mechanism. This helps the student network to recover the normal feature information output by the teacher network. Finally, the multi-level training deployment at the feature level in this article aims to make the model obtain accurate defect detection results. The proposed method has been extensively tested on the published fabric dataset YDFID-1, ZJU-Leaper dataset and the anomaly detection dataset MVTec. The results show that this method not only has good performance in fabric defect detection and location but also has universal applicability. Note de contenu : - RELATED WORKS : Fabric defect detection - Attention mechanism - METHODS : The proposed DAERD model - DAERD-based yarn-dyed fabric defect detection - EXPERIMENT : Experimental details - Datasets - Evaluation metric - Experimental results and comparative analysis - Table 1 : Distribution of the number of defective and defect-free samples in the partial dataset of YDFID-1 - Table 2 : Distribution of the number of anomaly-free and anomalous samples in the texture class dataset - Table 3 : Image-level AUROC (%) of defect detection methods on the YDFID-1 dataset - Table 4 : Pixel-level AUROC (%) and AUPRO (%) of defect localisation methods on the YDFID-1 dataset - Table 5 : Image-level AUROC (%) of defect detection methods on the MVTec dataset - Table 6 : Pixel-level AUROC (%) and AUPRO (%) of defect localisation methods on the MVTec dataset - Table 7 : Image-level AUROC (%) of defect detection methods on the ZJU-Leaper dataset - Table 8 : Pixel-level AUROC (%) and AUPRO (%) of defect localisation methods on the ZJU-Leaper dataset - Table 9 : Ablation study of the effect of SimAM (simple, parameter-free, attention module) and SE (squeeze-and-excitation) network on the model performance DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12705 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fzssAGVLxuRnKx8FtikkhnIF1yv1cue3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40396 [article]

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