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Correlation between sensory and instrumental characterization of developed sunscreens containing grape seed extract and a commercial product / Liudmila Yarovaya in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)
[article]
Titre : Correlation between sensory and instrumental characterization of developed sunscreens containing grape seed extract and a commercial product Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Liudmila Yarovaya, Auteur ; Neti Waranuch, Auteur ; Wudtichai Wisuitiprot, Auteur ; Watcharee Khunkitti, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 569-587 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Caractérisation
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pépins de raisins
Produits antisolaires
Raisin et constituants
Rhéologie
Statistiques
Texture -- AnalyseIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In the development of cosmetic products, sensory evaluation is an important step in determining consumer acceptance before it is released on a market but is often time-consuming and costly. However, correlating sensory characteristics with instrumental parameters using multivariate techniques is a potential way to facilitate the development of cosmetic products.
- Methods : Sunscreen formulations varied in the content of grape seed extract (GSE) and ultraviolet (UV) filters, and benchmark products were characterized using sensory descriptive analysis and instrumental analysis. Principal Component Analysis (PCA) was applied to the panel's performance data to study how well the panelists performed compared to each other and to find an association between rheological and textural instrumental parameters of cream samples. Further, applying Partial Least Squares (PLS) regression analysis, the association between sensory attributes and instrumental parameters was analyzed. In addition, a preference for the sensory properties of the studied sunscreen products that are important for consumers living in Southeast Asia was assessed by PLS.
- Results : In this study, both the sensory and instrumental properties of all tested formulations were described well by PCA. The practicality of PLS was confirmed by an established correlation between sensory attributes from the categories of appearance (glossiness), pick-up (integrity of shape, firmness, glossiness, stringiness), and after-feel (glossiness, spreadability, stickiness) with both rheological and textural parameters. Although the instrumental analysis could not completely replace sensory evaluation, a described method applying PLS can be used as an additional cost-effective and time-saving method during the development of cosmetic products. Moreover, PLS revealed that sunscreens with a light texture and glossy appearance providing smooth skin after-feel are likely to be preferred over the thicker formulations having a residual color appearance in Southeast Asia.
- Conclusion : Until a universal model is created, the cosmetics developers and companies can apply a described method of determining sensory properties from the instrumental parameters of their own products. Future studies will be worth exploiting the applicability of the PLS regression model on instrumental datasets predicting sensory characteristics of other sunscreen products.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Preparation of grape seed extract - Preparation of sunscreen formulations - Sensory evaluation - Instrumental determinations - Textural analysis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Sensory analysis - Instrumental profiling - Partial least squares (PLS) regression analysis
- Table 1 : Sunscreen formulations
- Table 2 : Definitions of attributes used for sensory evaluation
- Table 3 : Rheological parameters of cream samples derived through controlled oscillatory strain sweep and shear flow analysis
- Table 4 : Textural parameters of cream samples
- Table 5 : Partial Least Square regression model calibration and cross-validation for predicted and reference responsesDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12807 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1unxmlYIYtQF3kJhZJge7WgK8qDm6fJIM/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38154
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 569-587[article]Study of the qualitative and semi-quantitative analysis of grape seed extract by HPLC / Silvia Sorolla in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIII, N° 3 (03/2018)
[article]
Titre : Study of the qualitative and semi-quantitative analysis of grape seed extract by HPLC Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Silvia Sorolla, Auteur ; Antonia Flores, Auteur ; Trini Canals, Auteur ; Rosa Cantero, Auteur ; Joaquim Font, Auteur ; Lluis Ollé, Auteur ; Anna Bacardit, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 88-93 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Analyse quantitative (chimie)
Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances
Pépins de raisins
Raisin et constituants
Tanins -- analyse
Tanins végétauxIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : The main aim of this study is to carry out a qualitative and semi-quantitative analysis of tannin extracts as an alternative to the official analysis method ISO 14088 – IUC 32, so that a correlation between the two methods is established.
From the point of view of the chemical composition, tannins are classified into two major groups :
i) condensed tannins, also called flavanols or catechins, and ii) hydrolysable tannins, also called pyrogallic tannins.
Today, the most widely used conventional extracts are quebracho, mimosa, chestnut, and tara. Quebracho and mimosa are condensed tannins, whereas chestnut and tara are hydrolysable tannins.
The following extracts were used in this study: tara powder, commercial mimosa and quebracho extracts and extracts derived from grape seed, containing both condensed and hydrolysable extracts.
The development of this new method will allow a faster and less expensive estimate of the amount of tannins present in a tannin extract.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Introduction - Obtaining grape seed extract - HPLC method for determination of tannins
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Analysis of patterns - Analysis of tannin extracts
- FIGURES : 1. Typical UV-Vis spectrum of catechin compounds - 2. Typical UV-Vis spectrum of gallotannins - 3. Correlation between standard filter method ISO 14088-IUC 32 and total of peak areas by HPLC - 4. Grapetan chromatogram, PP2 sampleEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MyW25Rv0f6NbpHMtTDEDf9s4PAp5Wx1c/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30275
in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIII, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 88-93[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19735 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Synthesis and application of nonionic Gemini surfactants based on grape seed oil / Kangwei Si in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)
[article]
Titre : Synthesis and application of nonionic Gemini surfactants based on grape seed oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kangwei Si, Auteur ; Zhiwei Xu, Auteur ; Xiangdong Zhou, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 42-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants acides
Huiles et graisses végétales
Mesure
Pépins de raisins
Polyamide 66
Surfactants -- Synthèse
Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiquesIndex. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : A series of vegetable oil-based nonionic Gemini surfactant (GPNGS) was prepared using grape seed oil and polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether (350, 550, 750) as the primary raw materials. The chemical structures of different types of GPNGS were characterised by Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy, elemental analysis, proton nuclear magnetic resonance and carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance. The critical micelle concentration (CMC) of GPNGS with different polyoxyethylene chain lengths was measured using the Wilhelmy ring method (CMC: ca. 1.4 × 10−4 to 5 × 10−4 mol/L). The results of wettability testing showed that the contact angle of GPNGS on polyamide film was ca. 46-49°. In addition, the interaction of surfactants with acid dyes was also investigated. The ultraviolet spectrum showed a balance between dyes, surfactants and the dye/surfactant complex. Next, the GPNGS was used as a nylon 66 acid dye levelling agent. After adding 0.2 mmol/L of surfactants, the standard deviations (S(λ)) of nylon 66 dyeing decreased from 0.084 to ca. 0.036-0.044, exhibiting a good levelling effect. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Synthesis - Dyeing process of nylon 66 fabric - Measurement
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Elemental analysis - Surface performance - Polyamide acid dyeing
- Table 1 : Surface active parameters of GPNGS
- Table 2 : The effect of different types of levelling agent on K/S and levelness S(λ)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12689 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12689 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40389
in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 42-51[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24413 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible