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Iontophoresis in dermal delivery : A review of applications in dermato-cosmetic and aesthetic sciences / Aikaterini Liatsopoulou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 117-132 Titre : Iontophoresis in dermal delivery : A review of applications in dermato-cosmetic and aesthetic sciences Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Aikaterini Liatsopoulou, Auteur ; Athanasia Varvaresou, Auteur ; Fotini Mellou, Auteur ; Evangelia Protopapa, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 117-132 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Alopécie Barrière cutanée Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cicatrices Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Epilage Ionophorèse Pénétration cutanée Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Pigmentation, Troubles de la Soins de beauté Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Iontophoresis is defined as the use of electric current to drive molecules across cell membranes through an electrolyte solution. In therapeutic context, it is used to facilitate the administration of bioactive substances, either systemically or locally. The technique presents various advantages and that is why it has been successfully used by a plethora of medical sciences. The constantly developing field of dermato-cosmetic science has also taken advantage of the possibilities offered by iontophoresis, aiming to enhance the delivery of the applied active ingredients and, thus, induce the desired cosmetic effects. - Methods : The available literature was examined for evidence-based reports of safe and successful iontophoresis of pharmaceutical and cosmetic substances, in order to explore different iontophoretic applications in the field of dermato-cosmetic and dermato-aesthetic sciences. - Conclusion : Iontophoresis can be safely and successfully used in the treatment of ageing, photoageing, hyperpigmentation, oxidative stress, hair loss, hair removal, acne, acne sequelae and cellulite, providing many possibilities for enhanced treatment results. Note de contenu : - MECHANISM OF ACTION OF IONTOPHORESIS - IONTOPHORESIS IN HEALTH SCIENCES - IONTOPHORESIS IN DERMATO-COSMETIC AND AESTHETIC SCIENCES : Dermal delivery - Devices - Active agents - Dermato-cosmetic treatments - Photoageing - Hyperpigmentation - Oxidative stress - Hair loss - Hair removal - Acne and acne scars - Cellulite - EFFICACY AND SAFETY ISSUES - COMBINATION OF IONTOPHORESIS WITH OTHER PERMEATION STRATEGIES DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12824 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jQlECOkdYkFVX9BEO5WWLaJWgJmERGCQ/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39164 [article]

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Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 133-154 Titre : Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 133-154 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cornéosomes Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Facteur naturel d'hydratation Filaggrine Lipides Matériaux -- Propriétés barrières Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptidases Produits hydratants Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research. We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation. The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1. Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration. Note de contenu : - MATURATION PATHWAYS AND GRADIENTS IN THE STRATUM CORNEUM : Water - Corneodesmosome and plasminogen system - Filaggrin and NMF - Barrier lipids - ARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRY SKIN ? : Stratum compactum – Disjunctum ratio model of dry skin - The dry skin cycle - Table 1 : Comparison of proteins between SC samples from sun-exposed cheek and sun-protected post-auricular (PA) area in Caucasian women DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12832 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gyGbFFX05QTuLAEF3ncihyYctFOG6IOf/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39165 [article]

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Assessment of the anti-hair loss potential of Camellia japonica fruit shell extract in vitro / Jiyoung You in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 155-165 Titre : Assessment of the anti-hair loss potential of Camellia japonica fruit shell extract in vitro Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Jiyoung You, Auteur ; Jieun Woo, Auteur ; Kyung-Baeg Roh, Auteur ; Dehun Ryu, Auteur ; Youngsu Jang, Auteur ; Eunae Cho, Auteur ; Deokhoon Park, Auteur ; Eunsun Jung, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 155-165 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie Camélia du Japon Camellia japonica, communément appelé camélia, est une espèce d'arbustes. C. japonica aurait été rapporté du Japon par les marchands portugais au XVIe siècle, puis à plusieurs reprises par les Britanniques en provenance de Chine, à la fin du XVIIIe siècle. Des tests in vitro laissent penser que Camellia japonica pourrait avoir des vertus protectrices de la peau (encore non comprise en 2019) contre la pollution de l'air. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Dihydrotestostérone Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Produits capillaires Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair loss is caused by various factors. Impacts of these factors are often overlapped and intensified. Currently, mitigation of hair loss is being studied by proliferating dermal papilla cells (DPCs) and inhibiting deleterious factors such as dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and oxidative stress on hair growth. Camellia japonica (C. japonica) fruit shell is a discarded part. Its biological activity remains to be elucidated. In this study, we investigated the capacity of C. japonica fruit shell extract (CJFSE) for hair loss mitigation. - Methods : MTT assay, spheroid culture and quantitative RT-PCR were performed to observe the proliferative effect of CJFSE on hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs). Effects of CJFSE on DHT-induced hair loss were confirmed by Dkk-1 ELISA, β-galactosidase (β-gal) and 5α-reductase activity assay. In addition, effects of CJFSE on oxidative stress were confirmed through DPPH and ROS production assays. - Results : CJFSE increased the proliferation and spheroid size of HFDPCs. Expression levels of VEGF-A, Wnt-1, c-Myc and Cyclin D1 were upregulated by CJFSE. CJFSE also suppressed 5α-reductase activity and DHT-induced decrease in cell proliferation, Dkk-1 secretion and β-gal activity. Moreover, CJFSE showed DPPH scavenging activity and ameliorated hydrogen peroxide-induced ROS production and β-gal activity. Finally, gallic acid and protocatechuic acid were observed in CJFSE through HPLC analysis. - Conclusion : CJFSE has the potential to alleviate hair loss by promoting hair cell growth and suppressing effects of DHT and oxidative stress on hair Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cell culture - Preparation of Camellia japonica fruit shell extract - Cell viability assay - Cell proliferation assay - Spheroid culture of HFDPCs - Quantitative real-time PCR - Western blot analysis - DHT-induced senescence - 5α-reductase activity assay - Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) - SA-β- gal staining - DPPH radical scavenging assay - H2O2-induced senescence - Analysis of ROS production - Phenolic compound analysis using HPLC - Statistical - RESULTS : CJFSE increases the proliferation of HFDPCs - CJFSE augments spheroid size - CJFSE induces the expression of VEGF and genes related to HFDPCs proliferation - CJFSE inhibits the effect of DHT on HFDPCs - CJFSE inhibits the effect of oxidative stress on HFDPCs - Gallic acid and protocatechuic acid are identified as phenolic compounds in CJFSE - Table 1 : Gene primers sequences for real-time PCR (5′ to 3′) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12827 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J3f1fwY-N2SQ3MiJgM5lDQqCExw-7ftd/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39166 [article]

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Oleracone C from Portulaca oleracea attenuates UVB-induced changes in matrix metalloproteinase and type I procollagen production via MAPK and TGF-β/Smad pathways in human keratinocytes / Jung Hwan Oh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 166-176 Titre : Oleracone C from Portulaca oleracea attenuates UVB-induced changes in matrix metalloproteinase and type I procollagen production via MAPK and TGF-β/Smad pathways in human keratinocytes Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Jung Hwan Oh, Auteur ; Fatih Karadeniz, Auteur ; Jung Im Lee, Auteur ; Youngwan Seo, Auteur ; Chang-Suk Kong, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 166-176 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cosmétiques Espèces réactives de l'oxygène Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Mesure Oleracone C Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Procollagène Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Rayonnement ultraviolet B Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces photo-oxidation, which in turn causes the overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and collagen degradation. These symptoms are referred to as photoaging, which is characterized by skin thickness, irregular pigmentation, elastosis and coarse wrinkles. In this study, the protective effects of oleracone C isolated from Portulaca olerace against UVB-induced changes in MMPs and type I procollagen production were investigated in human keratinocytes. - Methods : Human immortalized keratinocytes have been used as an in vitro cell model to study the abnormal skin barrier development such as in photoaging. The effects of the compound on cell viability were determined by colorimetric MTT assay. This study also measured ROS production using DCFH-DA assay. Releases of MMPs and type Iα1 procollagen were analysed by ELISA. RT-PCR and Western blot were carried out to test the expressions of mRNA and proteins related to MMPs and type I procollagen biosynthesis. - Result : Effect of oleracone C against UVB-mediated oxidative stress was evaluated measuring its ability to eliminate UVB-induced activation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Treatment of oleracone C hindered the production of intracellular ROS. UVB exposure increased MMPs (MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9) release from keratinocytes and decreased the release of type I procollagen. Treatment with oleracone C reversed these effects of UVB exposure. Oleracone C treatment also diminished the intracellular expression of MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9 and elevated the type I procollagen. Oleracone C suppressed the UVB irradiation-dependent upregulation phosphorylation of p38 and ERK1/2 in the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway. Furthermore, oleracone C stimulated collagen production through the TGF-β signalling pathway, which activates collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. - Conclusion : These findings reasonably suggest ameliorating the potential of oleracone C against the UVB-induced photoaging of the human keratinocytes. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Reagents - Extraction and isolation of oleracone C from Potulaca oleracea - Cell culture and UV irradiation - Cell viability - Measurement of ROS production - Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay - Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) - Western blot analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Cytotoxicity of oleracone C in HaCaT keratinocytes - Cytoprotective effect of oleracone C against UVB-induced - Effect of oleracone C on UVB-induced ROS production cytotoxicity - Effect of oleracone C on MMPs and type Iα1 procollagen secretions in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes - Effect of oleracone C on MMPs and type I procollagen expressions in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes - Effect of oleracone C on MAPKs expression and phosphorylation - Effect of oleracone C on TGF-β/Smad signalling in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12828 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e2VOp_wPSCpirDYxsYovBlLAelGY_TUB/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39167 [article]

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Jade material in vitro and in vivo : A study on the anti-inflammatory and repair efficacy of jade material on the skin / Xiaohong Shu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 177-186 Titre : Jade material in vitro and in vivo : A study on the anti-inflammatory and repair efficacy of jade material on the skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Xiaohong Shu, Auteur ; Ling Wang, Auteur ; Ruina Qu, Auteur ; Li Li, Auteur ; Xi Wang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 177-186 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Dermo-cosmétologie Jade et constituants Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The biological safety of natural jade materials and assembled jade-activated materials on cells and their anti-inflammatory and damage repair functions, as well as the repair function on sensitive skin, were studied utilizing in vitro cell biology and in vivo. - Methods : Human skin fibroblasts were used as model cells to conduct cytotoxicity experiments in vitro, and the effects on the expression of inflammatory factors and growth factor-related genes in fibroblasts were explored. The gene expression values of inflammatory factors IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α and cytokines epidermal growth factors, fibroblast growth factors and COL1A1 in fibroblasts were measured by polymerase chain reaction test. Thirty women with sensitive skin were selected to apply a mask containing jade extract three times a week. After two weeks, non-invasive measures related to skin sensitivity were tested. - Results : We confirmed the presence of anti-inflammatory effects in both jade materials, with the effects of the assembled activated jade material being superior to that of the natural jade material. Jade extracts significantly increased the gene expressions of EGF, FGF and COL1A1 in HDF. The results of the in vivo study showed that the mask containing jade extract could significantly increase the skin hydration and decrease the rate of transepidermal water loss and skin lactic acid sting test scores after two weeks of use. Subjective evaluations confirmed improvements in skin dryness, smoothness and fineness. No new sensitization occurred in subjects, and the product was non-irritating. No adverse skin reactions were observed during the test. - Conclusions : The jade materials were able to downregulate the expression of inflammatory factor genes, up-regulate the expression of growth factor genes, and improve the anti-inflammation and repair ability of skin. Furthermore, the test results of participants with sensitive skin after using the mask containing jade extract showed that the mask has repairing ability. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro experiments - Effects of jade materials on gene expression of inflammatory cytokines and growth factors in HDF - Statistical analysis - In vivo experiment - RESULTS : In vitro experimental results and discussion - Anti-inflammatory effects of jade materials - Reparative effects of jade materials on skin wounds - In vivo experimental results - DISCUSSION : In vitro experimental discussion - Table 1 : Primer sequences for qPCR - Table 2 : Lactic acid sting test scores of the skin at different time points DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12829 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvuNE6Cejjs0x77KaXASVgHYHgPNIs55/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39168 [article]

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Ethylated analogue of Zingerone : A new and eco-respectful preservative in cosmetics / Patricio Guerreiro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 187-197 Titre : Ethylated analogue of Zingerone : A new and eco-respectful preservative in cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Patricio Guerreiro, Auteur ; Sylvie Cupferman, Auteur ; Jacques Lharidon, Auteur ; Roger Rozot, Auteur ; Maria Dalko-Csiba, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 187-197 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Composés organiques -- Synthèse Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques Curcuma et constituants Eco-conception Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Gingembre et constituants Ingrédients cosmétiques Matériaux bio-inspirés Microbiologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This article describes the eco-design of a new preservative in cosmetics based on bio-inspiration of natural extracts from traditional medicines. In order to reach the multiple specification targets, various structures have been synthesized and evaluated to select the one demonstrating broad antimicrobial spectrum with favorable environmental profile and application potential to a wide variety of formulas. - Methods : In order to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the synthesized structures, the method of the challenge test consisting in an artificial contamination of the sample with collection microbial strains and evaluation of the number of revivable microorganisms was used to select the most promising candidate. Validation of its antimicrobial potential was later confirmed on Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria, yeast and mold with measurement of its Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) in comparison with known preservatives. Environmental impact assessment of the selected candidate was achieved with the help of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity tests performed according to appropriate Organization tes a strfor Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) and European Union (EU) guidelinesy. - Results : Bio-inspired from turmeric and ginger extracts, an ethylated analog of Zingerone (EZ) with the chemical name 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one demonstrates the strongest activity on Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans. Moreover, EZ shows a solubility in water two times higher than that of Zingerone thus increasing its interest as a potential preservative. Finally, its assessment of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity in OECD-EU tests with a favorable environmental profile confirms its unique interest and fully justifies its use in cosmetic formulas as an eco-respectful preservative. - Conclusion : Bio-inspiration based on technologies without noteworthy side effects but also on eco-design, particularly through the use of measures of potential environmental impact very upstream of a development, are two fundamental elements for the launching of new eco-friendly cosmetic ingredients. This approach has thus validated the strong potential of EZ as a preservative of eco-respectful formulas. The selection of EZ is also a very good example of the achievement of two key objectives targeted by cosmetic companies for the development of a novel active ingredient : environmental performance and technical performance. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Antimicrobial tests - ENVIRONNEMENTAL tests - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Bio-inspiration : From natural extracts of turmeric and ginger to an eco-designed ethylated analogue of Zingerone (EZ) with antimicrobial activity - Environnemental favourable profile of ethylated analogue of Zingerone (EZ) Strong potential of an ethylated analogue of Zingerone (EZ), as a preservative with no bacterial cross-resistance to antimicrobials - Table 1 & 2 : Culture conditions - Table 3 : Antimicrobial activity of five molecules close to Zingerone structure on five strains - Table 4 : Results of MIC measurements of EZ on five strains in comparison with preservatives approved by organic standards - Table 5 : Challenge test results of EZ formulated in a simplex formula (carbopol gel), pH = 5.5 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12830 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xUR5XyuizpfF-kNXwC5ABRBa0UBSl9FL/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39169 [article]

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Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds / Louise Perrin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 198-213 Titre : Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Louise Perrin, Auteur ; Sylvie Desobry-Banon, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Stephane Desobry, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 198-213 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Ondes décamétriques Plan d'expérience Ultrasons Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A combined treatment using both low-frequency (20 kHz) and high-frequency ultrasounds (1.63 MHz) is a promising new process to stabilize emulsions with minimalist formulation. In order to optimize process parameters, a Doehlert experimental design was performed with oil-in-water emulsions, presently used for cosmetic products, composed of water, caprylic/capric triglycerides and oleic acid. - Methods : Effects of treatment time, oil content and oleic acid content were studied on emulsion properties (droplet size, polydispersity index, ζ-potential and yield of oil incorporation) and on emulsion stability after a 28-day storage (creaming index, Turbiscan stability index (TSI) and oil release). - Results : From experimental data, a model was established that allowed to study effects of each parameter and their interactions on emulsion formation and stability. Oleic acid content had a great impact on emulsion formation: It reduced droplet size, PDI and ζ-potential and increased yield of oil incorporation. However, a critical value could be highlighted, beyond which oleic acid effects reversed. Treatment time had an important beneficial effect on emulsion stability as it decreased creaming index, TSI and oil release after 28 days of storage. Oil content had a negative effect on emulsion formation and on emulsion stability. However, treatment time and oil content often had a beneficial synergistic effect. - Conclusion : The optimized conditions for emulsion processing were obtained through a desirability approach. They were experimentally validated. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Emulsification process - Size and ζ-potential measurements - Multiple light scattering for stability determination - Yield of oil incorporation and oil release after 28 days of storage determination - Experimental design - Model validation - Data and statistical analyses - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion stability - Optimization of emulsion properties and stability - Model validation - Table 1 : Experimental domain and levels of studied parameters in emulsification process - Table 2 : Doehlert experimental design to study emulsification process - Table 3 : Experimental data obtained for each experiment in Doehlert experimental design - Table 4 : Predictive model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion properties - Table 5 : Prediction model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion stability - Table 6 : Comparison between predicted and experimental data obtained for model validation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12831 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TKyB0gTa88FJ000S2FbmQdRAy_0_fxU-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39170 [article]

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The impact of airborne ultrafine particulate matter on human keratinocyte stem cells / Florian Labarrade in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 214-223 Titre : The impact of airborne ultrafine particulate matter on human keratinocyte stem cells Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Florian Labarrade, Auteur ; Céline Meyrignac, Auteur ; Christelle Plaza, Auteur ; Christophe Capallere, Auteur ; Jean-Marie Botto, Auteur ; Isabelle Imbert, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 214-223 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cellules souches Dermatologie Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Particules fines Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Physiologie Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Air pollution is today fully acknowledged to be a significant public health problem. Rapid urbanization exposed us to a variety of unhealthy ambient air pollutants at high concentrations. The emergence of airborne ultrafine particles has added an additional dimension to this already complex problem of air pollution. The skin has different functions, one of them being the protection against the deleterious effect of external agents. The aim of this study is to evaluate the impact of airborne ultrafine particles (UFP) pollution on skin aging and on keratinocyte differentiation. - Methods : Ex vivo human skin biopsies and cultured keratinocytes stem cells (KSC) were submitted to diesel exhaust-derived UFP. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was assessed with the MitoSOXâ„¢ probe. Keratinocyte stemness potential was evaluated by the immunodetection of keratin 15 (K15) and p63 (∆N isoforms). Effect of UFP on the epithelial niche maintenance was evaluated by immunodetection of Sox9. Reconstructed epidermis model was used to assess the impact of UFP on keratinocyte differentiation and aging. - Results : UFP exposure induced ROS production and disturbed K15, ∆Np63 and Sox9 expression in KSC or ex vivo skin. Finally, investigations on reconstructed epidermis revealed a phenotype marked by impaired keratinocyte differentiation. - Conclusion : These results indicate that UFP pollution is a potent extrinsic factor of skin aging, affecting the keratinocyte stem cell potential and the skin renewal process. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ultrafine particles - Antibodies - Cell culture - Keratinocyte stem cells isolation - Measurement of intracellular ROS with MitoSOXâ„¢ red probe - Immunocyto-fluorescence - Immunohistological fluorescence - Reconstructed skin epidermis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Detection of mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) - Keratin 15 and ΔNp63 expression analyses in keratinocyte stem cells - Keratin 15 expression analyses in ex vivo skin biopsies - Sox9 expression analyses in ex vivo skin biopsies and in keratinocyte stem cells - Human epidermal model reconstruction DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12833 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xMen5efFuYiVSPhCW8m6z0NuewhUis-F/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39171 [article]

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Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition / Leslie Labarre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 224-235 Titre : Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Leslie Labarre, Auteur ; Ophélie Squillace, Auteur ; Yu Liu, Auteur ; Peter J. Fryer, Auteur ; Preeti Kaur, Auteur ; Shane Whitaker, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Zhenyu J. Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 224-235 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Energie de surface Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits. - Methods : Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM). - Results : Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water. - Conclusion : Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Atomic force microscopy - AFM cantilever functionalization - Surface analysis - Surface energy - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :Surface deposition analysis - Hair surface free energy - Surface morphology of hair fibres - Hair surface adhesion against methyl (-CH3) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against carboxylic acid (-COOH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against hydroxyl (-OH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against amine (-NH2) functional group - Table 1 : Silicone and cationic surfactant deposition in μg g-1 as a function of hair type (virgin hair, platinum-bleached hair) and treatment (chassis alone, chassis/TAS) in ambient air. Three hair fibre samples were collected from three different hair tresses, resulting in a total of nine measurements for each type - Table 2 : Surface energy data obtained from contact angles on virgin hair and platinum-bleached hair using hexadecane for the non-polar liquid and water for the polar liquid DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12834 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUQR6DU_sOnv9W97138uGnXS8zH2hwWp/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39172 [article]

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Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy / Eric S. Johnson in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 236-245 Titre : Enhanced piroctone olamine retention from shampoo for superior anti-dandruff efficacy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Eric S. Johnson, Auteur ; Debora W. Chang, Auteur ; James R. Schwartz, Auteur ; Ulrike Blume-Peytavi, Auteur ; James P. Henry, Auteur ; Tamara L. Caterino, Auteur ; Allison L. Talley, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 236-245 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antifongiques Antipelliculaires Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu Dermatite sébhorrhéique Desquamation Etudes cliniques Pellicules (dermatologie) Piroctone olamine Produits capillaires shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Dandruff is a pervasive chronic condition which negatively impacts quality of life. Effective treatment requires efficient delivery of scalp benefit agents that control commensal scalp Malassezia levels. Delivery of benefit agents from shampoos requires balancing many technical parameters to achieve the desired outcome without sacrificing secondary parameters, such as cosmetic attributes. - Objectives : To develop formulation technologies that increase the shampoo delivery efficiency of the scalp benefit agent piroctone olamine (PO). Increased delivery should result in increased anti-dandruff efficacy. - Methods : Micellar Stability and Association parameters were quantified via dynamic surface tension and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) diffusion parameters, respectively. PO delivery has been assessed in vivo both on the scalp surface and follicular infindibula using extraction procedures and analytical analysis. Clinical anti-dandruff efficacy was assessed for an advanced delivery technology prototype in comparison to standard delivery technology. - Results : Shampoo prototypes have been developed that increase the delivery efficiency of PO. Both surfactant and polymer coacervate-based approaches have been developed. Decreased micellar stability results in weaker association between PO and micelles, resulting in more efficient PO retention on the scalp surface and delivery to the infundibula. Increased charge density of cationic polymers optimizes coacervation enabling improved PO delivery as well. Increased PO delivery has been shown clinically to result in higher anti-dandruff efficacy as measured by both visible flakes and underlying biomarkers. - Conclusion : Increased efficiency PO delivery shampoos have been developed by optimization of both surfactant and coacervate parameters. The increased deposition efficiency results in significantly more products with significantly greater anti-dandruff efficacy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Shampoo products and compositions evaluated - Measurement of Micellar Stability parameter (θ) - Measurement of Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Measurement of scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Measurement of infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Clinical efficacy study design - Assessment of flaking severity - Assessment of histamine and ratio of IL1ra/IL-1α from scalp surface - Test products - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Micellar Stability parameter evaluations - Micellar Association parameter (Ds/Da) - Scalp surface retention of piroctone olamine in vivo - Infundibular delivery of piroctone olamine in vivo - Evaluation of Anti-Dandruff clinical efficacy - Table 1 : Summary of shampoo compositions evaluated - Table 2 : Summary of Micellar Stability parameter and Micellar Association parameter data - Table 3 : Summary of Micellar Association data and PO retention - Table 4 : Summary of piroctone olamine scalp retention data - Table 5 : Summary of anti-dandruff clinical evaluation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12835 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15x6UeCPskFUzXhclO36lFCI1b11GE8SC/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39173 [article]

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Promotion of glyoxylic acid penetration into human hair by glycolic acid / Makoto Uyama in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 246-254 Titre : Promotion of glyoxylic acid penetration into human hair by glycolic acid Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Makoto Uyama, Auteur ; Shinya Okabe, Auteur ; Takumi Kurashima, Auteur ; Rie Kurinobu, Auteur ; Miwa Takechi, Auteur ; Ryo Yoshiba, Auteur ; Rina Miyoshi, Auteur ; Seigi Noda, Auteur ; Mio Kaneko, Auteur ; Yuka Ikemoto, Auteur ; Atsushi Takahara, Auteur ; Yuji Higaki, Auteur ; Tetsuya Hama, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 246-254 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide glycolique L'acide glycolique (ou acide hydroxyacétique) est le plus petit des acides α-hydroxylés (AHA). L'acide glycolique est obtenu à partir d'extrait de canne à sucre, de betterave ou de raisin. Grâce à son excellente capacité à pénétrer la peau, l'acide glycolique est très utilisé dans les produits de soins pour la peau, le plus souvent dans les peelings. Toxicité : L'acide glycolique peut être très irritant selon les niveaux de pH5. Il peut être irritant pour la peau, les yeux ou les voies respiratoires6. Comme l'éthylène glycol, il est métabolisé à l'acide oxalique, ce qui peut le rendre dangereux s'il est ingéré. Cheveux -- Lissage Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chromatographie en phase liquide Cosmétiques Essais (technologie) Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Pénétration (physique) Permanente (coiffure) Spectrométrie de masse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Glyoxylic acid (GA) is widely used as a straight perming agent for hair care products, however, advanced GA penetration-enhancing agents are desired due to the peculiar odour and hair colour fading caused by the continuous use of GA products. Hence, it is important to develop a penetration-enhancing agent that helps minimize the GA concentration. We have found that the combined use of GA and glycolic acid (GCA) has a strong hair straightening effect. - Methods : Straightening hair test was carried out to the evaluation of the effect of additives. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC/MS) was performed to quantify the GA penetration amount into human hair. Attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and FT-IR microscope were implemented to estimate the localization of GA in the hair. - Results : Straightening hair tests indicated that the hair straightening effect by GA was enhanced by the presence of GCA. LC/MS results showed that the addition of GCA enhanced the amount of GA that penetrated human hair by about four times. ATR FT-IR and FT-IR microscope measurements indicated that GA was localized more in the innermost region of hair (medulla) than the cortex and cuticle. The GA accumulated in the medulla disappeared after a hair straightener treatment at 180°C due to the chemical reaction. - Conclusions : The GA penetration-enhancing effect of GCA is worth investigating to reduce the GA concentration in products for more comfortable use. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Sample preparation - Straightening hair test - LC/MS - ATR FT-IR - FT-IR microscope - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Straightening hair test - Penetration amount of GA - ATR FT-IR experiments - FT-IR microscope experiments DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12838 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qoOnbZW6hICxlV8z8jHxV6_Y9HA3hEAG/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39174 [article]

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Development of SEDDS formulation containing caffeine for dermal delivery / Igor de Andrade Assunção de Almeida in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 255-265 Titre : Development of SEDDS formulation containing caffeine for dermal delivery Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Igor de Andrade Assunção de Almeida, Auteur ; Thiago da Silva Honório, Auteur ; Flavia Almada do Carmo, Auteur ; Zaida Maria Faria de Freitas, Auteur ; Lucio Mendes Cabral, Auteur ; Letícia Coli Louvisse de Abreu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 255-265 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants Caféine Caractérisation Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cellulite Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Essais (technologie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Médicaments -- Administration par voie cutanée Nanoémulsions Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perméation Potentiel zeta Solubilité Taille des gouttelettes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The objective of this work was to develop a self-emulsifying drug delivery system (SEDDS) containing caffeine for the treatment of cellulite. - Methods : SEDDS were prepared using the solution method. 0.5% (w/v) caffeine was added to the previously selected excipients. The system was characterized by droplet size, zeta potential, emulsification time and long-term stability. In vitro release and skin permeation were investigated using Franz-type diffusion cells. The cytotoxicity was evaluated on normal human keratinocytes. - Results : Caffeine SEDDS were thermodynamically stable, with a zeta potential less than - 22 mV and droplet size around 30 nm, and were long-term stable. The permeation study showed that the formulation promoted caffeine accumulation in the skin layers, suggesting an increase in local circulation. Cytotoxicity studies on HaCaT cells were not conclusive as the surfactant used indicated false-positive results due to its high molar mass. - Conclusion : It was possible to obtain a stable SEDDS that could cause an increase in blood flow in the applied area, resulting in cellulite reduction. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparations of self-emulsifying drug delivery systems - Characterization of self-emulsifying drug delivery systems - Measurement of droplet size, polydispersity index and zeta potential - Cytotoxicity evaluation in HaCaT cells - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation of SEDDS caffeine formulations - Characterization of SEDDS - Evaluation of the permeation profile - Formulation safety - Table 1 : SEDDS formulations - Table 2 : Nanoemulsion classification system - Table 3 : Solubility tests - Table 4 : Droplet size results - Table 5 : Initial zeta potential and after 6 months - Table 6 : Stability study T0 and T6 months DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12841 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-ASq7IknoSSPuChlSeOqGI4aCCpdvrOi/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39175 [article]

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