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Analysis of 275 DIY recipes for eye cosmetics and their possible safety issues / Céline Couteau in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 403-413 Titre : Analysis of 275 DIY recipes for eye cosmetics and their possible safety issues Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Céline Couteau, Auteur ; Emma Girard, Auteur ; Laurence Coiffard, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 403-413 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cils -- Soins et hygiène Consommateurs -- Protection Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Cosmétiques à faire soi même Démaquillants Maquillage Sécurité des produits de consommation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Some consumers have become very suspicious of certain health products such as medicines, medical devices and cosmetics. This can lead them to choose to make such products themselves. The aim of this work was therefore to analyse recipes for eye makeup and makeup removal products, as well as eyelash and eye contour care products. We collected recipes for do-it-yourself products found on blogs and social media (YouTube channels, Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and TikTok) in French and English and then analyse their composition as well as how practical it is to make these recipes. We compiled and studied 275 recipes for products that can be used in or around the eye (periocular area). This work has shown that the quantities of the various ingredients are very imprecise, that the proposed substances are not suitable for the intended use and that the preservation of the finished products is not sufficiently guaranteed. The results obtained suggest that recipes for products intended for use in the eye or in the periocular area are not safe to use and that their use is likely to have relatively serious consequences. Note de contenu : - General problems with recipes for products used in, on or around the eyes - Problems with the quantities given in the recipes - Problems with the suggested ingredients - Problems caused by the poor preservation of prepared products - Problems raised by a lack of possible controls - Table 1 : Pharmaceutical forms of the products corresponding to the recipes studied - Table 2 : Recipes presented as potentially being able to lighten the eyes - Table 3 : Number of recipes containing an antimicrobial preservative and/or an antioxidant preservative DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12776 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l3xYWsazwcKtydaZ-OXUDYaOtAaCXiSl/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38140 [article]

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Facial skin ageing : Key concepts and overview of processes / David Zargaran in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 414-420 Titre : Facial skin ageing : Key concepts and overview of processes Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : David Zargaran, Auteur ; Florence Zoller, Auteur ; Alexander Zargaran, Auteur ; Tim Weyrich, Auteur ; Afshin Mosahebi, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 414-420 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Hydratation Peau -- Anatomie Peau noire -- Physiologie Produits antisolaires Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Vieillissement cutané Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : The face is a cosmetically sensitive region where the process of ageing is most clearly manifested. With increased focus on anti-ageing and longevity, more anti-senescent treatments are being proposed despite limited evidence. This study outlines the pathways and mechanisms underpinning the biological process of ageing in the face. - Methods : Comprehensive searches of MEDLINE, EMBASE, Cochrane Library and CINAHL from inception to 2020. Inclusion criteria included all empirical human research studies specific to facial ageing features, written in the English language. Results : A total of 65 papers met inclusion criteria for analysis. Pathways were subdivided into intrinsic and extrinsic senescence mechanisms. Intrinsic pathways included genetics, generation of reactive oxygen species and hormonal changes. Extrinsic pathways included photoageing and damage to skin layers. The combined intrinsic and extrinsic pathway alterations result in wrinkles, higher laxity, slackness and thinning of the skin. Skin functions such as barrier immune function, wound healing, thermoregulation and sensory function are also impaired. - Conclusion : The ageing process is unique to the individual and depends on the interplay between an individual's genetics and external environmental factors. Through understanding the molecular and cellular mechanisms, an appreciation of the consequent structural and functional changes can be achieved. Based on this knowledge, further research can focus on how to slow or impede the ageing process and identify specific targets to develop and evolve new treatment strategies. Note de contenu : - BACKGROUND : Genetic alterations - Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals - Hormones - SKIN AGEING : Extracellular matrix components - Photoageing - Epidermis - Dermo-epidermal junction - Dermis - FAT, CARTILAGE, BONE AND MUSCULAR TISSUE : Fat - Cartilage and bone - Muscles DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12779 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19oMiISUsdI1aNFzafsHYvjv8ZqQdzP_l/view?usp=shari [...] Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38141 [article]

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Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state : Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments / Franz J. Wortmann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 421-430 Titre : Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state : Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Franz J. Wortmann, Auteur ; Jutta M. Quadflieg, Auteur ; Gabriele Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 421-430 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de variance En statistique, l'analyse de la variance (terme souvent abrégé par le terme anglais ANOVA : ANalysis Of VAriance) est un ensemble de modèles statistiques utilisés pour vérifier si les moyennes des groupes proviennent d'une même population. Les groupes correspondent aux modalités d'une variable qualitative (p. ex. variable : traitement; modalités : programme d'entrainement sportif, suppléments alimentaires ; placebo) et les moyennes sont calculés à partir d'une variable continue (p. ex. gain musculaire). Ce test s'applique lorsque l'on mesure une ou plusieurs variables explicatives catégorielles (appelées alors facteurs de variabilité, leurs différentes modalités étant parfois appelées "niveaux") qui ont de l'influence sur la loi d'une variable continue à expliquer. On parle d'analyse à un facteur lorsque l'analyse porte sur un modèle décrit par un seul facteur de variabilité, d'analyse à deux facteurs ou d'analyse multifactorielle sinon. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux décolorés Cheveux humides Cheveux secs Essais dynamiques Justification de l'allégation Statistique Traction (mécanique) Traitement thermique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : This investigation focuses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry-testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically, we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat). - Methods : The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE), and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor analysis of variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction. - Results : Correlations for the dry versus wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R2) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix. - Conclusions : The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and methods - Choice of variables, basic data, and statistical analysis - Correlations wet vs dry - 2-Factor ANOVA - DISCUSSION : The independence hypothesis - Two-Factor ANOVA - Table 1 : Summary of basic statistics for the investigated variables for natural/chemically untreated (N) and bleached (B) hair - Table 2 : Parameter values of the regression equations, when plotting variable means (n = 8) for dry vs wet testing - Table 3 : Summary of the various sum-of-squares (SS) components for the three chosen variables (wet and dry), according to Equations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12796 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lf_6im_y7ozRCbt5z_EPSBMWt4BrXRLh/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38142 [article]

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A 5-hour follow-up of the impact on ageing facial signs of some foundations in Japanese women through automatically analysed selfie pictures / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 431-439 Titre : A 5-hour follow-up of the impact on ageing facial signs of some foundations in Japanese women through automatically analysed selfie pictures Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Damien Velleman, Auteur ; Eri Yamashita, Auteur ; Alexandre Nicolas, Auteur ; Emilie Yokoyama, Auteur ; Salim Chibout, Auteur ; Ruowei Jiang, Auteur ; Jeff Houghton, Auteur ; Camille Kroely, Auteur ; Matthieu Cassier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 431-439 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Apparence individuelle Cosmétiques Evaluation Fond de teint Intelligence artificielle Maquillage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To explore the possibility of an automatic grading algorithm to detect and quantify, from selfie pictures, the subtle changes of facial signs brought by the application of a foundation. - Material and Methods : A total of 270 Japanese differently aged women (30–54y) living in four different Japanese cities took selfies before, immediately and 5 h after having applied their own foundation, with their own routine. - Results : The analysis of 810 selfie pictures revealed (3 times × 270 women) that, prior to applications, all women presented a low grade of facial ageing. In most cases, the severities of less marked facial signs were detected and quantified, found affected by routine at different extents in all age-classes, but more intensely in the older age-class (45–54y) despite their more pronounced signs in bare skin status. In contrast, periorbital wrinkles were detected as more severe in all age-classes at both timing, that is, immediately and 5 h post-application as well as Nasolabial folds 5 h post-application. The amplitude of these positive or negative changes, although found of low amplitude, as decimals of the initial grades, was significantly detected. - Conclusion : This automatic system appears apt at grading subtle changes in facial ageing signs brought by a foundation and could be a valuable help to the consumers of make-up products, in refining their individual procedure to obtain a more personalized desired facial appearance. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Subjects and conditions of privacy in the collection of smartphones' selfie pictures - Protocol - Products used - Facial signs assessed by dermatologists and by automatic grading system - Statistics - RESULTS : Age impact on facial signs - Application of foundations - Wear of foundations - Global changes (A – C) brought by all foundations - Table 1 : Distribution of the 270 studied Japanese women according to the four considered cities - Table 2 : Fourteen facial signs included in actual A.I-based automatic grading system and their respective photographic grading ranges for Asian ethnicities. Signs cover four different clinical clusters: wrinkles/texture, pigmentation signs, cheek skin pores or vascular signs - Table 3 : Average gradings of the fourteen facial signs on bare skin in the three age-classes, prior to the application of the foundation - Table 4 : Changes in the severities of fourteen facial signs with age-classes in Japanese women measured by A.I-based automatic grading system from bare skin to 5 h wear of foundation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12786 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ht638t1v96JT7amvPNhTfaF1PykL-PgL/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38143 [article]

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5-a reductase inhibition by Epilobioum fleischeri extract modulates facial microbiota structure / Riccardo Sfriso in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 440-452 Titre : 5-a reductase inhibition by Epilobioum fleischeri extract modulates facial microbiota structure Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Riccardo Sfriso, Auteur ; Joshua Claypool, Auteur ; Magalie Roche, Auteur ; Dominik Imfeld, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 440-452 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antienzymes Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Justification de l'allégation Microbiome cutané Microbiote cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Réductase Une réductase est une enzyme qui diminue l'énergie d'activation d'une réaction d'oxydo-réduction. (Wikipedia) Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Facial skin is a particularly complex environment made of different skin types such as sebaceous (forehead) and dry (cheeks). The skin microbiota composition on different facial sites has not yet been addressed. - Methods : We conducted a 4-week-long, single-centre, randomized and placebo-controlled clinical study involving 23 Caucasian females. We assessed both bacterial composition on five different facial areas and the microbiome modulatory effects resulting from the topical application of a plant extract (Epilobium fleischeri). Skin microbiome samples were collected before and after 4 weeks of product application. Microbiota profiling was performed via 16S rRNA gene sequencing, and relative abundance data were used to calculate differentials via a multinomial regression model. - Results : Via ‘reference frames’, we observed shifts in microbial composition after 4 weeks of twice-daily product application and identify certain microbiota species, which were positively associated with the application of the product containing the Epilobium fleischeri extract. Staphylococcus hominis, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Micrococcus yunnanensis appeared to be significantly enriched in the final microbiota composition of the active treatment group. - Conclusion : Facial skin was found to be colonized by an heterogenous microbiota, and the Epilobium fleischeri extract had a modulatory effect on commensal bacteria on the different facial sites. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Objectives - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test formulations - Clinical study design - Porphyrins Non-inflammatory lesions Skin microbiome sampling 16S rRNA gene sequencing and predicted metagenomics Data filtering and analysis Facial colour mapping RESULTS Relative abundance and diversity Reference frames and differential ranking Porphyrins and non-inflammatory lesions assessment - Table 1 : Formulations used in the clinical study - Table 2 : Songbird output values for pathways related to N-acetylneuraminate degradation, mandelate degradation, hexitol degradation and tryptophan degradation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12777 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O4avryVbmE2KCmKDwKdGIKdskdHRNMHU/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38144 [article]

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Efficient dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside with photoacoustic waves / Sofia Melo-Guímaro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 453-463 Titre : Efficient dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside with photoacoustic waves Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sofia Melo-Guímaro, Auteur ; Renato Cardoso, Auteur ; Celso Paiva João, Auteur ; João Santos, Auteur ; Elodie Melro, Auteur ; Luis G. Arnaut, Auteur ; Jorge Costa Pereira, Auteur ; Carlos Serpa, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 453-463 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ondes photoacoustiques Pénétration cutanée Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vitamine C Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Ascorbic acid (i.e., vitamin C) is an important antioxidant present in skin. The protective role of vitamin C against photoaging motivated numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery, with a success limited by its chemical instability and poor skin permeability. Vitamin C precursors, such as ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), which are metabolized to vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin, solve the problem of stability but are limited by low skin permeability. We developed a 2% (w/v) gel formulation of AA2G application (viscosity 4.30 × 104 Pa.s, pH 5.94) and compared its passive dermal delivery with the delivery promoted by photoacoustic waves that transiently perturb the skin barrier. - Methods : Photoacoustic (PA) waves were generated by laser pulses absorbed by piezophotonic (light-to-pressure) transducers. Pig skin samples were exposed to the 2% AA2G formulation alone or combined with 5 min of PA waves. One hour later, AA2G was extracted from the skin and quantified by reverse-phase HPLC. AA2G transdermal fluxes using Franz cells with 760 μm thick pig skin samples were also measured. - Results : Photoacoustic waves transiently enhanced skin permeability and increased dermal delivery of AA2G. AA2G was released from the formulation nearly quantitatively (92.6 ± 6.2%) in 24 h, showing a non-Fickian behaviour controlled by diffusion and swelling. AA2G dermal delivery with exposure for 5 min to PA waves was compared with passive delivery to pig skin. PA waves increased the delivery of AA2G to the skin by a factor of 15-fold with respect to passive delivery, as measured from skin extracts after 1 h of contact of the formulation with the skin. - Conclusion : Five minutes of exposure to PA waves is a safe and effective method to deliver large quantities of AA2G to the skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Characterization of photoacoustic waves - Skin samples preparation - Preparation of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside gel formulation - In vitro release of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - In vitro transdermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - HPLC analytical methods - Data analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : In vitro release of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - In vitro dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - Table 1 : High-performance liquid chromatography elution protocol for the quantitative analysis of the transdermal delivery in vitro experiments samples - Table 2 : Summary of the AA2G release data fit using mathematical models - Table 3 : Amount of AA2G extracted from skin samples after 12h and 1h of contact with the formulation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12793 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p9GpgZCE40JSS3624kii6ujQnuogcMdV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38145 [article]

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The protective effect of a novel sunscreen against blue light Background and objective / Veronique Francois-Newton in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 464-476 Titre : The protective effect of a novel sunscreen against blue light Background and objective Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Veronique Francois-Newton, Auteur ; Vimi Lutchmanen Kolanthan, Auteur ; Madiiha Bibi Mandary, Auteur ; Evans Georges Philibert, Auteur ; Vitisha Soobramaney, Auteur ; Gitanjali Petkar, Auteur ; Bibi Nusayha Sokeechand, Auteur ; Muzzammil Hosenally, Auteur ; Andrea Cavagnino, Auteur ; Martin Andres Baraibar, Auteur ; Sue Phay Ng, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 464-476 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Carbonylation Dermo-cosmétologie Lumière bleue Mélasma Le mélasma (également dénommé chloasme ou chloasma) est une affection bénigne de la peau se présentant sous la forme de taches hyperpigmentées apparaissant sur les zones exposées au soleil, surtout au niveau du visage, du décolleté et du cou. Le mélasma atteint principalement les femmes, le plus souvent lors de la grossesse, donnant ce que l'on appelle communément le masque de grossesse, mais il peut apparaître en dehors de celle-ci. Les causes et les facteurs favorisants du mélasma sont essentiellement des facteurs de prédisposition génétique, l’exposition au soleil et aux Å“strogènes (lors de la grossesse ou au cours d'une contraception). Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation de la peau Produits antisolaires Protéines Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background and objective : Premature skin ageing, and skin hyperpigmentation are influenced by exogenous factors, such as ultraviolet radiation and blue light. In this study, we assess the protective effect of a sunscreen (TDF® Blu Voile Sunscreen) in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of blue light irradiation in vivo and through the in situ quantitative and qualitative evaluation of protein carbonylation in human skin explants. - Methodology : The protective effect of the test product against blue light was first evaluated ex vivo on human skin explants. The treated and non-treated explants were exposed to 14 J/cm2 of blue light 460 nm following which the protein carbonylation was evaluated by in situ epifluorescence imaging and separation by high-resolution gel electrophoresis. To determine whether the test product could also protect against the immediate and persistent pigmenting effect of blue light, two randomized in vivo studies were conducted, which included respectively 17 subjects with a skin phototype of IV and V (Fitzpatrick classification) and 22 subjects with a skin phototype of IV, V, and VI (Fitzpatrick classification). The duration of the study for each subject was 2 days (D1 and D2) for immediate observations and 5 days (D1–D5) for persistent observations. Specific zones on the subjects' back were either left non-treated or treated with the test product and were then exposed to a unique dose of blue light 415 nm. The onset of pigmentation between the treated and exposed zones was then assessed relative to the non-exposed treated zone through colorimetric measurements of the Individual Typology Angle (ITAo). - Results : Human skin explants treated with test product showed significantly lower levels of accumulated carbonylated proteins, with a protection of 82%, following exposure to blue light 460 nm. Findings of the in vivo studies also indicated that the test product presented significantly better protective efficacy against immediate and persistent pigmentation induced by blue light 415 nm. - Conclusion : Hence, it can be concluded that the test product can protect against the oxidative stress as well as the immediate and persistent pigmentation induced by blue light. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test compounds - Blue lights doses - Ex vivo protein carbonylation study - Human skin explants preparation - In situ visualization and semi-quantification of carbonylated proteins - Extraction and absolute quantification of carbonylated proteins - Statistical analysis - In vivo clinical study with volunteers - Evaluation against the immediate pigmenting effect of blue light - Evaluation against the persistent pigmenting effect of blue light - Colorimetric measurement - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Prevention against accumulation of carbonylated proteins in human skin explants - Protection against the immediate pigmenting effect of blue light - Illustrative photographs of immediate pigmentation - Protection against the persistent pigmenting effect of blue light - Table 1 : Experimental group and design - Table 2 : The study flow of the in vivo trial for immediate pigmentation effect of blue light - Table 3 : The study flow of the in vivo trials for persistent pigmentation effect of blue light DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12794 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oEDQa-wCBoOiHBVvptrg1X1eEg6VkisC/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38146 [article]

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The effect of synthetic acetylhexapeptide-8 (AH8) on sebaceous function / Vivian Y. Shi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 477-483 Titre : The effect of synthetic acetylhexapeptide-8 (AH8) on sebaceous function Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Vivian Y. Shi, Auteur ; Waqas Burney, Auteur ; Anastasia Shakhbazova, Auteur ; Adrianne Pan, Auteur ; Lauren A. Hassoun, Auteur ; Shreya Sharma, Auteur ; Raja K. Sivamani, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 477-483 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acétylhexapeptide-8 Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Séborrhée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This study aims to evaluate the in vitro and clinical effects of topical acetylhexapeptide-8 (AH8) on the appearance of oily skin. - Method : In vitro SEB-1 human sebocyte cell lines were exposed to different concentrations of AH8, then the lipid content of the sebocytes was measured. For the randomized, controlled, split-face clinical study, participants received AH8 10% lotion formulated in Cetaphil Moisturizing Facial Lotion on one side of their face and the control vehicle lotion on the other side of their face. Facial oiliness was assessed by a trained physician using a three-point grading system, high-resolution digital photographs, and a sebumeter (SM815). Participants also filled out self-assessments of their skin oiliness. - Results : The in vitro experiments showed that sebocyte lipid content significantly decreased after AH8 treatment (p < 0.05 at 0.00005% AH8, p = 0.09 at 0.0005% AH8, p < 0.05 at 0.005% AH8, and p < 0.001 at 0.025% AH8). In the clinical study, participants trended towards a 10% reduction (p = 0.16) in sebum production after AH8 treatment in comparison to the vehicle treatment. - Conclusion : AH8 inhibits the accumulation of lipids in sebocytes in vitro without altering cell proliferation or SREBP-1 expression. Topical AH8 trended towards decreased sebum production in human participants. The use of AH8 may serve as a promising agent to reduce sebocyte lipid production and the appearance of oily skin. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12795 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GaypXzW7f0AA6KAN0yhLqW26sTYf_-rl/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38147 [article]

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Documents numériques

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 44, N° 4 URL