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Relationship between lip skin biophysical and biochemical characteristics with corneocyte unevenness ratio as a new parameter to assess the severity of lip scaling / Jongwook Kim in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 275-282 Titre : Relationship between lip skin biophysical and biochemical characteristics with corneocyte unevenness ratio as a new parameter to assess the severity of lip scaling Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Jongwook Kim, Auteur ; Hyerin Yeo, Auteur ; Taeyoon Kim, Auteur ; Eui-Taek Jeong, Auteur ; Jun M. Lim, Auteur ; Sun-Gyoo Park, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 275-282 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Hydratation Peau -- Physiologie Peptidases Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Lip skin dryness and chapping are major concerns related to lip skin care in many populations. The distinctive features of lip skin, such as the low water-holding capacity and weak skin barrier, are strongly associated with these problems; however, few studies have examined lip skin characteristics and the mechanisms underlying these issues. This study was conducted to identify the biophysical properties of dry lip skin and molecular targets affecting lip skin physiology. - Methods : Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss and lip skin scaling were evaluated in 40 female subjects. Skin scaling was assessed as a percentage area divided into five categories (G0, G1, G2, G3 and G4) according to the thickness level of tape-stripped corneocytes. The activities and amounts of proteases, cathepsin D and bleomycin hydrolase were measured as markers for the desquamation process and skin hydration, respectively. - Results : Skin hydration showed a significantly positive correlation with the percentage area of evenly thin corneocytes (G0) and negative correlations with the percentage areas of slightly thick to severely thick corneocytes (G1-G4). The corneocyte unevenness ratio (CUR) was calculated by dividing the sum of the G1, G2, G3 and G4 values with the G0 value. The CUR was significantly negatively correlated with skin hydration, suggesting that CUR is a new parameter representing the severity of lip scaling. Subjects with lower hydration and higher CUR had higher bleomycin hydrolase activity and lower cathepsin D activity, respectively, than subjects with higher hydration and lower CUR. - Conclusion : Our study revealed a correlation between lip skin hydration and severity of lip scaling and verified the association of protease activity with the hydration and chapping state of lip skin. These observations provide a basis for further studies of the persistent problem of lip skin dryness and chapping. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Biophysical measurements - Protein extraction from the lip skin - Measurement of protease activity - Quantification of protease concentrations - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Correlations between lip dryness-related biophysical parameters - Differences in activities and amounts of proteases related to lip skin hydration - Differences in activities and amounts of proteases related to chapping of lip skin - Table 1 : Correlation coefficients between skin biophysical parameters DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12692 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xW30jfvxocMUqLYIRUc5wte31j41fDuy/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35894 [article]

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Purified Cannabidiol isolate does not inhibit active caspase-1 release in NLRP inflammasome-mediated UVB or ATP-activated keratinocytes or appear to reduce key inflammatory cytokines in UVB-irradiate keratinocytes / James V. Gruber in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 283-291 Titre : Purified Cannabidiol isolate does not inhibit active caspase-1 release in NLRP inflammasome-mediated UVB or ATP-activated keratinocytes or appear to reduce key inflammatory cytokines in UVB-irradiate keratinocytes Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : James V. Gruber, Auteur ; Robert Holtz, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 283-291 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Allergies Anti-inflammatoires Cannabidiol Le cannabidiol (CBD) est un cannabinoïde présent dans le cannabis. Le CBD est un phytocannabinoïde bicyclique extrêmement lipophile. Il est le deuxième cannabinoïde constituant du cannabis sativa et indica le plus étudié après le THC3 qui existe sous au moins 3 formes connues. Il est un des constituants majeurs des cannabinoïdes du chanvre (comprenant notamment les différents types de THC, le CBN, le CBG, et bien d'autres alcaloïdes, ainsi que des terpènes ou terpenoïdes et les flavonoïdes). Le chanvre "textile" en a une concentration (en % de matière sèche) classique de 0,1-2,9 % pour ce qui concerne le chanvre couramment utilisé dans l'industrie textile. Médicalement, il est utilisé pour traiter les convulsions, l'inflammation, l'anxiété et les nausées, ainsi que pour inhiber la croissance des cellules cancéreuses. Il possède également un fort potentiel médical dans le soulagement des symptômes de la dystonie et dans le traitement de l'épilepsie, de la schizophrénie, de la phobie sociale et des troubles du spectre autistique. Le CBD étant un produit très lipophile, il se retrouve notamment dans le lait maternel et pourrait faire décroitre le taux d'élimination du THC dans le corps en interférant dans son métabolisme dans le foie. Son usage aurait des effets sédatifs11 et pourrait augmenter la vigilance. Propriétés pharmacologiques : Le cannabidiol agit sur de très nombreuses cibles. Malgré une très faible affinité pour les récepteurs CB1 et CB2, le cannabidiol antagonise ces deux récepteurs et agit sur d’autres récepteurs cannabinoïdes. Il augmente la concentration de l’anandamide synaptique par inhibition de sa recapture et par l'hydrolyse de l’enzyme FAAH (fatty-acid amide hydrolase). Il agit sur d’autres systèmes tels que les récepteurs impliqués dans la douleur ou le système sérotoninergique comme agoniste des récepteurs 5-HT1A, et d’autres récepteurs opioïdes. Il agit par désensibilisation des canaux ioniques, mais également en antagonisant le récepteur sérotoninergique 5HT3A. Il agirait également en potentialisant l’effet analgésique du THC. Le cannabidiol est un inhibiteur du CYP1A219, CYP2B620, CYP2C820, CYP2C920, CYP2C1920 ainsi que du CYP3A419. Son élimination de l'organisme est lente (demi-vie de 56 à 61 heures par voie orale et 31 heures si fumé) et essentiellement hépatique. Dermo-cosmétologie Inflammasomes Ingrédients cosmétiques Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau noire -- Physiologie Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Cannabidiol is a plant-derived cannabinoid that has been suggested to have several human health benefits including potential anti-inflammatory effects. It is now common to find various forms of Cannabidiol, most often referred to as CBD, in nutritional supplements and topical treatments. The mechanisms by which CBD can influence inflammatory pathways in the body, and more particularly in the skin, are presently still unclear. It is known that CBD will bind to cannabinoid receptors, CB1 and CB2, in the body and recent work has shown that in keratinocytes, CBD can regulate inflammation through transcriptional regulation involving the NFƙβ nuclear pathways. The fact that CBD operates through the NFƙβ pathways suggests that, perhaps, the molecule may influence the expression of active caspase-1 through NLRP inflammasome-mediated pathways. - Methods : Recently, work has published demonstrating that Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) can be activated by UVB and ATP to express active caspase-1 via NLRP inflammasome-mediated pathways. There was a strong interest to see whether highly purified Cannabidiol Isolate (>99% purity) might function to control release of active caspase-1 by testing of NHEKs using the previously described models. In addition, NHEKs expression of non-NLRP inflammasome-induced inflammation markers including IL-6, IL-8 and PGE2 was examined in UVB-activated NHEKs. - Results : It was found that purified Cannabidiol Isolate did not influence active caspase-1 release in either UVB or ATP-activated NHEKs suggesting the molecule does not influence the NLRP inflammasome pathways. In addition, it was surprisingly found that the Cannabidiol Isolate did not impact the expression of additional UVB-activated non-NLRP inflammatory markers. - Conclusions : Data presented suggest that if Cannabidiol functions as an anti-inflammatory, it does so through pathways not associated with either the NLRP inflammasome-mediated expression of caspase-1 or through the more commonly known expression of interleukin or prostaglandin inflammatory pathways. Note de contenu : - METHODS AND MATERIALS : CBD isolate - Human keratinocyte cell culture - MTT assay - Caspase-1 activation - Caspase-1 assay (Promega Caspase-Glo 1 Inflammasome Assay Kit) - Anti-inflammation studies - Calculations - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Cytotoxicity of cannabidiol isolate on normal human epidermal keratinocytes - Examination of treatment of CBD isolate on UVB-NLRP inflammasome-activated NHEKs - Examination of topical treatment of CBD isolate on ATP-NLRP inflammasome-activated NHEKs - Examination of topical treatment of CBD Isolate on UVB-exposed NHEKs examining non-NLRP pathway expression of IL-6, IL-8 and PGE2 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12693 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/115f5MDZl7SuPsF1kPyVNOvxgdtTc-p9v/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35895 [article]

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Effective reduction of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with the tyrosinase inhibitor isobutylamido-thiazolyl-resorcinol (Thiamidol) / Dennis Roggenkamp in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 292-301 Titre : Effective reduction of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with the tyrosinase inhibitor isobutylamido-thiazolyl-resorcinol (Thiamidol) Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Dennis Roggenkamp, Auteur ; Ncoza Dlova, Auteur ; Tobias Mann, Auteur ; Jan Batzer, Auteur ; Julia Riedel, Auteur ; Martina Kausch, Auteur ; Ivica Zoric, Auteur ; Ludger Kolbe, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 292-301 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti tyrosinase Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Etude in vivo Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Physiologie Pigmentation, Troubles de la Statistique Thiamidol Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a major cosmetic concern especially in individuals with darker skin complexion. Unfortunately, treatment with anti-inflammatory ingredients alone does not prevent the development of hyperpigmented spots. Recently, isobutylamido-thiazolyl-resorcinol (Thiamidol) was described as a very potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase. The objective of this research was to investigate the potential of this compound to prevent PIH induced by epidermal wounding (suction blister) and related to acne. - Methods : Suction blister-induced PIH was treated with a formulation containing Thiamidol or a vehicle for 3 months, and the changes in hyperpigmentation were monitored by spectroscopic measurements. The effect of skin care formulations containing Thiamidol on acne-related PIH was investigated in two studies, a vehicle-controlled, double-blinded, randomized clinical study and a clinical observational study. Both studies had a duration of 3 months and included assessments such as clinical photography, clinical grading and melanin index measurements. - Results : Already after 2 weeks of treatment, suction blister sites treated with Thiamidol were significantly lighter than control sites and improved throughout the treatment period. Subjects´ self-grading demonstrated that Thiamidol significantly improved the visibility of acne-induced hyperpigmentation compared to the vehicle treatment. A skin care regimen with Thiamidol significantly improved acne-related PIH over 12 weeks shown by Mexameter measurements, expert grading, self-grading and clinical photography. - Conclusion : Thiamidol represents a safe and effective ingredient for cosmetic products against post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Note de contenu : - Test formulations - In vivo studies with Thiamidol-containing formulations - Statistical analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12694 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SX8mlLSVCm9kO_TNeqRk_MswkWU_LC-t/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35896 [article]

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Water-in-oil microemulsions composed of monoolein enhanced the transdermal delivery of nicotinamide / Momoko Kitaoka in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 302-310 Titre : Water-in-oil microemulsions composed of monoolein enhanced the transdermal delivery of nicotinamide Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Momoko Kitaoka, Auteur ; Trung Cong Nguyen, Auteur ; Masahiro Goto, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 302-310 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Barrière cutanée Caractérisation Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Microémulsions Nicotinamide Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, is a water-soluble vitamin that is used to prevent and treat acne and pellagra. It is often found in water-based skin care cosmetics because of its high water solubility. Nicotinamide is a small molecule with a molar mass of 122.1 g/mol. However, it has a hydrophilic nature that becomes an obstacle when it penetrates through the skin. The topmost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, acts as a strong hydrophobic barrier for such hydrophilic molecules. The oil-based formulations are expected to enhance the transdermal delivery efficiency of nicotinamide. - Methods : We have developed oil-based microemulsion formulations composed of a squalane vehicle. Monoolein was used as an emulsifier that has a potential to enhance the nicotinamide delivery through the stratum corneum. - Results : Because the mean size of the emulsions measured by dynamic light scattering was 20.9 ± 0.4 nm, the microemulsion formulation was stable under the long-term storage. Monoolein acted as a skin penetration enhancer, and it effectively enabled the penetration of nicotinamide through human abdominal skin, compared with nicotinamide in a phosphate-buffered saline solution. The flux was increased 25-fold. Microscopic imaging revealed that the hydrophilic bioactive compounds penetrated through the intercellular spaces in the epidermis. - Conclusion : The monoolein-based microemulsion was transparent and stable, suggesting that it is a promising formulation for a transdermal nicotinamide delivery. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of microemulsions carrying nicotinamide - Particle size analysis - Reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) - Nicotinamide release test from the microemulsion formulation - In vitro skin penetration experiment - Fluorescence confocal laser scanning microscopy - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation and characteristics of microemulsions - In vitro penetration of nicotinamide - Histology analysis - Table 1 : Compositions of 1 mL of the water-in-oil microemulsion formulations containing nicotinamide (5 mg/mL) - Table 2 : Particle z-average and polydispersity index (PDI) of the microemulsions as measured through dynamic light scattering - Table 3 : Skin penetration parameters of nicotinamide from a microemulsion formulation and PBS DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12695 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S_tMLxYvVTqhDv2nBvZ_b9VETyVgpjaL/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35897 [article]

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Low-level red plus near infrared lights combination induces expressions of collagen and elastin in human skin in vitro / Wen-Hwa Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 311-320 Titre : Low-level red plus near infrared lights combination induces expressions of collagen and elastin in human skin in vitro Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Wen-Hwa Li, Auteur ; InSeok Seo, Auteur ; Brian Kim, Auteur ; Ali Fassih, Auteur ; Michael D. Southall, Auteur ; Ramine Parsa, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 311-320 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Elisa, Test Le test ELISA est une méthode de laboratoire qualifiée d'immuno-enzymatique. Il s'agit d'un test immunologique, car il a pour principal objectif de mettre en évidence la présence d'anticorps ou d'antigènes spécifiques à une pathologie, dans un échantillon de sang. Cet examen utilise une protéine appelée enzyme, qui va se fixer à certains constituants spécifiques de la maladie, et par repérage et quantification de cette enzyme, la maladie pourra être affirmée, ainsi que son intensité évaluée. Fibroblastes Génétique Luminothérapie Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protéomique La protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à-dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données. Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité. Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances. La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine. La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Light therapy has attracted medical interests as a safe, alternative treatment for photo-ageing and photo-damaged skin. Recent research suggested the therapeutic activity of red and infrared (IR) lights may be effective at much lower energy levels than those used clinically. This study was to evaluate the efficacy of low-level red plus near IR light emitting diode (LED) combination on collagen and elastin and ATP production. - Methods : Human dermal fibroblasts or skin tissues were irradiated daily by red (640 nm) plus near IR (830 nm) LED lights combination at 0.5 mW/cm2 for 10 minutes (0.3 J/cm2). qPCR, ELISAs or histology were used to determine the gene and protein expressions. Fluorescent measurement was used to assess crosslinks of collagen and elastic fibres. ATP production was evaluated by ATP assay. - Results : Treatment of human fibroblast cell cultures with low-level red plus near IR lights combination was found to significantly increase LOXL1, ELN and COL1A1 and COL3A1 gene expressions as well as the synthesis of the procollagen type I and elastin proteins. Treating human skin explants with low-level red plus near IR lights combination similarly induced significant increases in the same gene expressions, type III collagen and elastic fibre formation and crosslinks. ATP production was increased in human dermal fibroblasts after red plus near IR lights combination treatment. - Conclusion : Low-level red plus near IR lights combination stimulated the production of collagen and elastin production associated with anti-ageing benefits. These findings suggest that low-level red plus near IR LED light combination may provide an effective treatment opportunity for people with photo-aged skin. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Red and Near IR LED light board setup - Human fibroblasts culture - Human skin explants - Gene expression analysis - Fluorescence emission spectroscopy - ATP luminescent assay - Statistics - RESULTS : Red Plus Near IR LED lights Combination induced ELN, COL1A1and COL3A1 gene expressions as well as elastin and procollagen production in human dermal fibroblasts in vitro - Red Plus Near IR LED lights Combination induced elastin gene expression and elastic fibre formation in human skin ex vivo - Red Plus Near IR LED lights Combination induced collagen gene expression and collagen production in human skin ex vivo - Red Plus Near IR LED lights Combination induced LOXL1 gene and elastic fibre crosslinks in human skin explants ex vivo - Red Plus Near IR LED lights Combination induced ATP production in human dermal fibroblasts in vitro DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12698 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hWr9UXxr6vbR3S14FtMTmETWQO5V-oCW/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35898 [article]

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Quantifying the impact of braiding and combing on the integrity of natural African hair / Kwezikazi Molamodi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 321-331 Titre : Quantifying the impact of braiding and combing on the integrity of natural African hair Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Kwezikazi Molamodi, Auteur ; Damilola Fajuyigbe, Auteur ; Poonam Sewraj, Auteur ; Julia Gichuri, Auteur ; Babalwa Sijako, Auteur ; Anthony Galliano, Auteur ; Alice Laurent, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 321-331 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Africain(ne)s Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Peignage Tressage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Afro hair breakage is most commonly attributed to grooming practices such as braiding, hair extensions and weaves, both for chemically treated hair and natural Afro hair. These grooming practices are also frequently associated with traction alopecia in clinical studies. However, there is little to no quantitative scientific data on the surface and internal hair fibre damage caused by grooming, including combing, on Afro hair. - Methods : Qualitative and quantitative techniques such as scanning electron microscopy, cuticle cohesion and tensile testing were used to determine the effects of frequent braiding on the integrity of female Afro hair in 15 frequent braiders and 15 occasional braiders (control group) in Johannesburg, South Africa. Frequent braiders were women who braided more than 8 times per year, while occasional braiders typically limit braiding to only twice 2 per year. The severity of traction alopecia was quantified in both groups using the standard Marginal Traction Alopecia Scoring system. Surface damage on naturally curly Afro hair, that was combed but not braided, was assessed as another hairstyle option. - Results : All measurements showed a relationship between surface and internal hair fibre damage and braiding frequency. Frequent braiders had thinner hair, with more cuticle damage as shown by SEM and cuticle cohesion assessments. Their hair fibres were also significantly weaker (p < 0.05), as shown by the tensile testing. In addition, they also had higher traction alopecia severity scores. In the combing impact assessment, a linear trend was observed between surface hair fibre damage and the number of combing strokes. Cuticle damage from 480 combing strokes was more severe than that from frequent braiding. - Conclusion : Frequent braiding and combing damage natural Afro hair. Quantification of damage caused by different grooming practices identifies a need to develop products that could help mitigate specific hair damage associated with grooming practices. The degree of damage and subsequent hair loss could also be minimized by education on best braiding practices to protect the hair fibre and avoid hair follicle miniaturization caused by high traction hairstyles. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study recruitment - Study design - ASSESSMENT TECHNIQUES : Marginal traction alopecia severity - Scanning electron microscopy - Cuticle Cohesion analysis for assessment of hair cuticle integrity - Measurement of dimensional properties - Ultimate tensile strength assessment - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Quantifying the impact of combing on Afro hair surface - Comparison of hair surface damage of frequent and occasional braiders - Hair cuticle integrity of frequent and occasional braiders - Comparison of the dimensional and tensile strength properties of frequent and occasional braiders - Frequent braiding and traction alopecia severity - Table 1 : The marginal traction alopecia scoring system - Table 2 : Hair surface damage scoring system - Table 3 : Hair fibre surface damage attributes - Table 4 : Dimensional and tensile strength hair properties of frequent and occasional braiders DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12699 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SXOEQmdn3j5wGJtZ7iveOSh0DTh6roxs/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35899 [article]

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Investigation of the molecular signature of greying hair shafts / Raoul Vyumvuhore in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 332-340 Titre : Investigation of the molecular signature of greying hair shafts Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Raoul Vyumvuhore, Auteur ; Laurie Verzeaux, Auteur ; Sophie Gilardeau, Auteur ; Sylvie Bordes, Auteur ; Elodie Aymard, Auteur ; Michel Manfait, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 332-340 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Biologie Cheveux -- Blanchiment Cheveux -- Croissance Spectroscopie Raman Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair greying (i.e. canitie) is a physiological process occurring with the loss of melanin production and deposition within the hair shafts. Many studies reported the oxidation as the main biological process underlying this defect of pigmentation. Even though the overall appearance and biomechanical properties of hairs are reported to be altered with greying, there is a lack of information about molecular modifications occurring in grey hair shafts. The aim of this study was thus to investigate the molecular signature and associated changes occurring in greying hair shafts by confocal Raman microspectroscopy. - Methods : This study was conducted on pigmented, intermediate (i.e. grey) and unpigmented hairs taken from 29 volunteers. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy measurements were acquired directly on hair shafts. - Results : Automatic classification of Raman spectra revealed 5 groups displaying significant differences. Hence, the analysis of the molecular signature highlighted the existence of 3 sub-groups within grey hair : light, medium and dark intermediate. Among molecular markers altered in the course of greying, this study identified for the first time a gradual modification of lipid conformation (trans/gauche ratio) and protein secondary structure (α-helix/β-sheet ratio), referring respectively to an alteration of barrier function and biomechanical properties of greying hair. - Conclusion : This study thus reports for the first time a highly specific molecular signature as well as molecular modifications within grey hair shaft. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Hair samples - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy - RESULTS : Classification of hair Raman spectra by hierarchical cluster analysis (HCA) - Investigation of oxidation markers in greying hair shafts - Modifications in lipid conformation and protein secondary structure in greying hair - - Table 1 : Characteristics of Raman bands analysed on hair fibres DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12700 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19u0bfXQXgLq1GPDGe8mTp5q6Xd9T8p8U/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35900 [article]

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Skin photoaging in young men : A clinical study by skin imaging technique / Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 341-351 Titre : Skin photoaging in young men : A clinical study by skin imaging technique Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante, Auteur ; Ediléia Bagatin, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 341-351 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Etudes cliniques Microscopie confocale Peau -- analyse Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau masculine Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Produits antisolaires Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Differences in skin physiology and lifestyle among people can influence the skin damage caused by solar radiation. Photoprotection habits play an important role to prevent skin photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin changes resulting from solar exposure in young men by skin imaging techniques. - Methods : Twenty-three male, aged 18–28 years, with and without photoprotection habits participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of dermis thickness and echogenicity (20 mHz ultrasound – DermaScanC®), morphological and structural skin characterization (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy – VivaScope® 1500) and high-resolution imaging (Visioface®) were performed in the malar region of the face. - Results : Pigmentation disorders, telangiectasia, wrinkles and lower dermis echogenicity were observed in the skin of subjects without photoprotection habits. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images showed an irregular honeycomb pattern (35%), polycyclic papillae (40%) and coarse collagen fibres (35%), which are related to photoaging. - Conclusion : Sun exposure without photoprotection results in a loss of dermal echogenicity and changes in the epidermis structure and collagen fibres regardless of chronological age. Thus, the study adds data for a discussion about correct photoprotection habits among young people and can help to increase the use of sunscreens for male public. Note de contenu : - CASUISTIC AND METHODS : Subjects - Sun protection habits and interviews - Evaluation of skin visual characteristics by high-resolution - Dermis echogenicity and thickness imaging - Reflectance Confocal Microscopy –RCM - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Sun protection habits and cultural aspects - Evaluation of skin visual characteristics by high-resolution - Dermis echogenicity - Epidermis and papillary dermis morphology by RCM imaging - Table 1 : Information about skin characteristics of study participants and the obtained results in the visual evaluation by medical doctor and reflectance confocal microscopy imaging analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12701 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Esg6EmFpTF0xy8kTiRkRmv-ev0Y1sLvR/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35901 [article]

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Skin characteristics following repeated exposure to simulated outdoor and indoor summer temperatures in South Korea and Southeast Asia / Sue Im Jang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 352-358 Titre : Skin characteristics following repeated exposure to simulated outdoor and indoor summer temperatures in South Korea and Southeast Asia Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sue Im Jang, Auteur ; Myeongryeol Lee, Auteur ; Yuchul Jung, Auteur ; Min Kyung Jeong, Auteur ; Ja Hyun Ryu, Auteur ; Beom Joon Kim, Auteur ; Byung-Fhy Suh, Auteur ; Eunjoo Kim, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 352-358 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Elasticité  'Haute  température  haute  humidité'  'Basse  faible  'Caractéristiques  de  la  peau'  'Environnement  d'été  d'Asie  du  Sud-Est' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : -Background : Although changes in skin depend on the external environment, researchers have performed only a few studies on effect of the actual environment. Most studies have researched skin characterization based on changes in the humidity or temperature. - Aim/objective : This study aimed to evaluate changes in the skin based on the difference in indoor and outdoor temperatures and humidity during summer in South Korea and Southeast Asia. - Methods : Twenty-two female participants aged 25–39 years were included. Skin hydration, sebum (cheek, forehead), colour, transparency and pores of the participants were measured after a 30-min exposure to high temperature and high humidity (HTHH) environment and a 30-min exposure to low temperature and low humidity (LTLH) environment. Subsequently, exposure to HTHH environment for 30 min +LTLH environment for 30 min was performed after a total of 1 h and repeated. - Results : Repeated exposure to HTHH and LTLH environments increased the skin's sebum content and haemoglobin index. Additionally, skin elasticity was significantly reduced, with patients in their 30 s showing greater changes than those in their 20 s. - Conclusion : Repeated differences in temperature and humidity cause skin ageing, loosen skin vessels and reduce skin elasticity, thereby leading to skin ageing. Note de contenu : - Participants and environmental condition - Measurement of hydration, sebum and elasticity - Measuring skin colour - Measuring skin haemoglobin index - Measuring skin transparency - Measuring skin pore - Statistics - Table 1 : Study environments DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12702 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hq66T_UXH2K-Pg3MtNUA7BxUpJohgG4G/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35902 [article]

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In vitro skin model for characterization of sunscreen substantivity upon perspiration / Fatemeh Keshavarzi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021) . - p. 359-371 Titre : In vitro skin model for characterization of sunscreen substantivity upon perspiration Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Fatemeh Keshavarzi, Auteur ; Nina O. Knudsen, Auteur ; Jonathan R. Brewer, Auteur ; Morten F. Ebbesen, Auteur ; Niloufarsadat M. Komjani, Auteur ; Saeed Z. Moghaddam, Auteur ; Shadi Jafarzadeh, Auteur ; Esben Thormann, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 359-371 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Facteur de protection solaire Formulation (Génie chimique) Gélatine La gélatine est une substance solide translucide, transparente ou légèrement jaune, presque sans goût et sans odeur, obtenue par l'ébullition prolongée de tissus conjonctifs (peaux) ou d'os d'animaux (principalement porc, bÅ“uf, poisson). Elle possède de nombreuses applications dans le domaine culinaire, la médecine, les industries agroalimentaire et pharmaceutique. En matière d’étiquetage, la gélatine est considérée par la norme européenne3 comme un ingrédient et non pas comme un additif, c'est pourquoi elle n'a pas de numéro E. Hors Union européenne, elle est considérée par certains pays comme un additif gélifiant et on peut la trouver avec la dénomination E441. La gélatine est un mélange de protéines obtenu par hydrolyse partielle du collagène extrait de la peau comme la peau de porc (cochon), des os, des cartilages, etc. Les liaisons moléculaires entre les fibres de collagène sont alors brisées. Mélangée à de l'eau, la gélatine forme un gel colloïdal semi-solide thermo-réversible (il fond lorsqu'il est chauffé et recouvre son aspect gélatineux lorsqu'il est refroidi). Sous forme déshydratée, par contre, la gélatine n'a pas de point de fusion et devient friable ou brûle quand elle est chauffée à trop haute températureLa rhéologie de la gélatine se caractérise par un comportement viscoélastique, et des contraintes trop élevées ou appliquées trop rapidement peuvent entraîner une rupture fragile (fracturation) ou ductile6. Le caractère plutôt élastique/fragile ou plutôt visqueux/ductile dépend de la concentration en gélatine de la solution aqueuse et de la température, ainsi que de la durée de la mise sous contrainteLes acides aminés constituant la gélatine sont : la glycine (21 %), la proline (12 %), l'hydroxyproline (12 %), l'acide glutamique (10 %), l'alanine (9 %), l'arginine (8 %), l'acide aspartique (6 %), la lysine (4 %), la sérine (4 %), la leucine (3 %), la valine, la phénylalanine et la thréonine (2 %), l'isoleucine et l'hydroxylysine (1 %), la méthionine et l'histidine (< 1 %) et la tyrosine (< 0,5 %). Ces valeurs sont variables (surtout pour les constituants minoritaires) et dépendent de la source de matériaux bruts et de la technique de préparation. La gélatine est constituée à environ 98-99 % (en poids sec) de protéines et contient 18 acides aminés dont huit des neuf acides aminés essentiels à l'Homme. Elle n'a qu'une relative valeur nutritionnelle du fait de l'absence de tryptophane et de son déficit en isoleucine, thréonine et méthionine; elle possède également un taux inhabituellement élevé d'acides aminés non essentiels, la glycine et la proline (qui sont produits par le corps humain). (Wikipedia) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Résistance à la transpiration Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The resistance of sunscreens to the loss of ultraviolet (UV) protection upon perspiration is important for their practical efficacy. However, this topic is largely overlooked in evaluations of sunscreen substantivity due to the relatively few well-established protocols compared to those for water resistance and mechanical wear. - Methods : In an attempt to achieve a better fundamental understanding of sunscreen behaviour in response to sweat exposure, we have developed a perspiring skin simulator, containing a substrate surface that mimics sweating human skin. Using this perspiring skin simulator, we evaluated sunscreen performance upon perspiration by in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurements, optical microscopy, ultraviolet (UV) reflectance imaging and coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) microscopy. - Results and conclusion : Results indicated that perspiration reduced sunscreen efficiency through two mechanisms, namely sunscreen wash-off (impairing the film thickness) and sunscreen redistribution (impairing the film uniformity). Further, we investigated how the sweat rate affected these mechanisms and how sunscreen application dose influenced UV protection upon perspiration. As expected, higher sweat rates led to a large loss of UV protection, while a larger application dose led to larger amounts of sunscreen being washed-off and redistributed but also provided higher UV protection before and after sweating. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Development of the perspiring skin simulator - Sunscreen formulations - Parameters affecting sunscreen efficacy upon perspiration - In vitro measurement of SPF - Imaging - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Perspiring skin simulator - Application of sunscreen to the perspiring skin simulator - SPF measurements on the skin-mimicking substrate - Imaging the interaction between sweat and sunscreen using CARS microscopy - Effect of sweat rate and sunscreen amount on sunscreen efficacy DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12703 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XyaxYdpL2mKGvfuGdBkx1se8KIlIiCQ7/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35903 [article]

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