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Application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques to evaluate the film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations / M. O. de Melo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)
[article]
Titre : Application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques to evaluate the film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. O. de Melo, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 579-584 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Evaluation
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formation de film
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Imagerie (technique)
Mesures biophysiques
Microscopie confocale
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Products with film-forming effect, or 'second skin', which guarantees an immediate protective effect after application, is a highlight, especially when composed of natural ingredients. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the immediate film-forming effect on skin of a gel and emulsion formulations added with Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa extracts through biophysical and skin imaging techniques, especially with the Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM).
- Methods : The measurements were done in the forearm region before (baseline) and 1 h after of application of the developed formulation and its control. The parameters related to the stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), cutaneous microrelief and morphological and structural characteristics of the epidermis were analysed through the following biophysical and skin imaging techniques: Corneometer® CM 825, Tewameter® TM 300, Visioscan® VC98 and Vivascope® 1500, respectively. A sensorial analysis was also performed to study how the formulations were perceived on the skin.
- Results : The obtained results showed that the active ingredient under study allows the film formation on the skin surface, leading to a reduction of TEWL and skin desquamation. The obtained images from RCM showed a reduction of furrows on the skin surface and a film formation after a single application of the formulations. However, these effects were more pronounced in the emulsion formulation, which suggests a synergistic effect of the active ingredient under study with the emollients of formulation composition. This result was also observed in the sensorial analysis, as both formulations added with the active substance were well evaluated.
- Conclusion : The presence of Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa extracts in the studied cosmetic formulations, enabled a film formation on a skin surface, bringing benefits as a reduction of transepidermal water loss and skin desquamation, as well as a furrows reduction and an improvement of stratum corneum after 1 h of application. Finally, the skin imaging techniques can be suggested as an excellent tool to evaluate a film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations.Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Objective
- METHODS : Casuistic - IntrumentationDOI : 10.1111/ics.12577 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33666
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21409 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations : a cross-cultural study / Livia Salomao Calixto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)
[article]
Titre : Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations : a cross-cultural study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Livia Salomao Calixto, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur ; Céline Picard, Auteur ; Géraldine Savary, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 60-67 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Brésiliens
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Diffusion (physique)
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Etudes comparatives
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Français
Pénétration (physique)
VectorisationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross‐information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish cross‐culturally preferences.
- Methods : For this, a total panel of 100 consumers of cosmetics evaluated four different products. The same protocol for the sensory analysis was followed in both countries.
- Results : The panellists were able to perceive differences in the products and the method proved to be repeatable in both countries. The presence of UV filters in the formulation was noticed and displeased both populations. Brazilians, although dissatisfied with the sensory aspect of the sunscreen, are willing to use it for its UV protection.
- Conclusion : This work delivers important information on the sensory perception of cosmetics by people from different countries and brings important knowledge to develop products with textural properties that will be appreciated worldwide.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples - Consumer panel - Experimental conditions - Descriptors - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Sensory perception of formulations - Correlation of rsults of both juries - Differences in assessors' preferenceDOI : 10.1111/ics.12586 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33680
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21486 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl acetate in sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn cell formation / Lorena Rigo Gaspar in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003)
[article]
Titre : Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl acetate in sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn cell formation Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Lorena Rigo Gaspar, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 213-217 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Erythèmes
Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire
Produits antisolaires
Vitamine EIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, vitamin E acetate is used as an antioxidant and moisturizer in sunscreens. Although free vitamin E presents UV protection effects, of vitamin E acetate on cutaneous photodamage, when combined with sunscreens. The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of a sunscreen formulation with or without vitamin E acetate on erythema in hairless mice, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation. The dorsal skin of mice was treated topically with sunscreen formulation with or without 5% vitamin E acetate in two different areas, 15 minutes before UVA/B irradiation. The addition of vitamin E acetate did not protect hairless mousse skin against erythema formation and TEWL. However, it protected the skin against sunburn cell formation. Consequently, vitamin E acetate can enhance the protective effects of sunscreens against sunburn cell formation, which can only be seen by traditional histopathological analysis, but will go unnoticed by non-invasive methodologies. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10571
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003880 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Histopathological, morphometric and stereological studies of ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in a skin care formulation / G. M. Silva in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (06/2000)
[article]
Titre : Histopathological, morphometric and stereological studies of ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in a skin care formulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : G. M. Silva, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 169-179 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Ascorbic acid Histopathology Magnesium l-ascorbyl phosphate Skin care Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : En raison de son effet inhibiteur sur la mélanogenèse, sur la synthèse du collagène et de ses propriétés régénérantes, l'acide ascorbique (vitamine C) est depuis longtemps largement utilisé en Cosmétique et en Dermatologie. Cependant, l'acide ascorbique, en solution aqueuse, est très vite oxydé et décomposé. Dans le but de trouver une solution à ce problème, des dérivés de la vitamine C ont été synthétisés.
Nous avons procédé à des études histopathologiques, morphométriques et stéréologiques pour analyser les altérations provoquées sur l'epiderme par des formules contenant de l'acide l-ascorbique ou du phosphate de magnésium l-ascorbyl.
Des gels contenant 2 % d'acide ascorbique ou ses dérivés, et les autres ne le contenant pas (contrôle), ont été sélectionnés pour tests. Quatre segments de 1,5 cm2 chacun ont été rasés sur le dos de cobayes pour des études plus approfondies. Un site non traité a été désigné comme groupe témoin alors que les autres ont été traités par des formules de gel contenant soit 2 % d'acide ascorbique ou ses dérivés ou le véhicule. Les formules ont été appliquées une fois par jour pendant 15, 30 ou 60 jours suivis d'un prélèvement, avec une pince dermatologique, en vue d'obtention de biopsies. Le matériel prélevé a été analysé par des techniques histopathologiques, morphométriques et stéréologiques.
Nous avons pu observer, dans les conditions des essais, que les formules agissaient sur l'épiderme en provoquant un épaississement de l'épithélium, formant une membrane cellulaire plus volumineuse disposée en plusieurs couches granuleuses et spineuses.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00017.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00017.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=4949
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003980 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 003981 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation / M. M. Fossa Shirata in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. M. Fossa Shirata, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : P. 622-628 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Cosmétiques -- Texture
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits antisolaires
Tests d'efficacitéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of this study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation.
Methods : Four cosmetic formulations, vehicle (V), vehicle containing UV filters (F), vehicle containing cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa (A) oligosaccharides and vehicle containing UV filters plus cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa oligosaccharides (multifunctional formulation, M) were developed. The texture profile of the formulations was analysed with a TA.XT plus Texturometer®. Twenty female volunteers aged 39–45 years were then selected for the assessment of immediate clinical efficacy of the formulations under study and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content and microrelief of the skin obtained with their use.
Results : The presence of UV filters resulted in an improvement of the physical properties of the multifunctional cosmetic formulation (M) and of skin microrelief. However, the presence of UV filters also caused a significant decrease in hydration.
Conclusion : The presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and TEWL. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered because it can have either positive or negative effect on the efficacy of the product.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Studied formulations - Texture profile - Clinical study - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Texture profile- Transepidermal water loss - Stratum corneum water content - Skin microreliefDOI : 10.1111/ics.12424 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29473
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Influence of vegetable oils in the rheology, texture profile and sensory properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel / Francine C. S. César in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)
PermalinkIntegrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffe oil / T. A. I. Wagemaker in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, N° 5 (10/2015)
PermalinkPhotoageing-related skin changes in different age groups: a clinical evaluation by biophysical and imaging techniques / M. M. Fossa Shirata in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 3 (06/2019)
PermalinkPhysical–Mechanical characterization of cosmetic formulations and correlation between instrumental measurements and sensorial properties / L. S. Calixto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 5 (10/2017)
PermalinkSafety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties : In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies / Victor H. P. Infante in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)
PermalinkSkin photoaging in young men : A clinical study by skin imaging technique / Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)
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