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Sunscreen claims, risk management and consumer confidence / Brian L. Diffey in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 1-4 Titre : Sunscreen claims, risk management and consumer confidence Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian L. Diffey, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 1-4 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Confiance Consommateurs -- Attitudes Evaluation du risque Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This essay is a personal reflection on how the concept of risk is impacting on the development of sunscreen products and claims, and whether these developments are jeopardizing consumer confidence. In order to estimate the risk of harm, we need not only to identify a hazard but, as importantly, determine the degree of exposure to the hazard and understand the health of impact of consequent exposure. A practice by many manufacturers is simply to market a product that claims to be protective against a hazard with little, or no, regard to exposure or consequence. The inherent danger with this approach is to undermine trust in product efficacy and in so doing to put at risk consumer confidence in both product and manufacturer. An example of this approach using infrared radiation as the hazard will be discussed. Note de contenu : - Risk of harm - Risk management approach to claims about sunscreens - A question of trust DOI : 10.1111/ics.12573 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Bvr-RbQWscsvc-ZWyqERRQTfiYfmCUc9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33673 [article]

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Multipotentiality of skin-derived precursors : application to the regeneration of skin and other tissues / Laurine Bergeron in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 5-15 Titre : Multipotentiality of skin-derived precursors : application to the regeneration of skin and other tissues Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laurine Bergeron, Auteur ; V. Busutil, Auteur ; Jean-Marie Botto, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 5-15 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules souches Dermatologie Peau Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin‐derived precursors (SKPs) have been described as multipotent dermal precursors. Here, we provide a review of the breadth and depth of scientific literature and studies regarding SKPs, accounting for a large number of scientific publications. Interestingly, these progenitors can be isolated from embryonic and adult skin, as well as from a population of dermal cells cultured in vitro in monolayer. Gathering information from different authors, this review explores different aspects of the SKP theme, such as the potential distinct origins of SKPs in rodents and in humans, and also their ability to differentiate in vitro and in vivo into multiple lineages of different progeny. This remarkable capacity makes SKPs an interesting endogenous source of precursors to explore in the framework of experimental and therapeutic applications in different domains. SKPs are not only involved in the skin’s dermal maintenance and support as well as wound healing, but also in hair follicle morphogenesis. This review points out the interests of future researches on SKPs for innovative perspectives that may be helpful in many different types of scientific and medical domains. Note de contenu : - SKIN-DERIVED PRECURSORS - CHRONOLOGICAL OVERVIEW OF THEIR DISCOVERY : Discovery and origin - CHARACTERISTICS OF SKIN-DERIVED PRECURSORS : Expression of specific markers - Multipotency of SKPs - SKPs and skin ageing - POTENTIAL USE OF SKPS IN REGENERATIVE EDICINE : How to counteract SKPs in vivo difficulties (expansion, maintenance of self-renewal) ? - Use of SKPs in regenerative medicine - Role of SKPs in the skin and beyond DOI : 10.1111/ics.12587 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R6RM-LzLpND63u7xEc9jdR5aXHHH69kV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33674 [article]

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Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application : an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques / S. Yang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 16-28 Titre : Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application : an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Yang, Auteur ; S. Liu, Auteur ; J. Han, Auteur ; Ying Tang, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 16-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie végétale Diffusion (physique) Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Liposomes Nanoparticules Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Polymères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant‐derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up‐to‐date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance‐related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems. Note de contenu : - Encapsulated plant ingredients - Polyphenols - Oils and essential oils - Vitamins - Multiple components/mixed herbal extracts - Novel cosmetic delivery systems - Vesicle system : Liposome - Phytosome - Particulate system : Micro-/nanoparticles - Lipid nanoparticles - Emulsion system : Micro-/nanoemulsion - Multilayer emulsion : Micelles - Pickering emulsions - Fibrous system : Nanofibre/nanotube - Characterization of plant carriers for cosmetic application - Microstructure, composition and encapsulation efficiency - Physical properties that affect stability and functionality : Particle size and homogeneity - Moisture content and hygroscopicity - Thermal properties - Rheological properties - Storage and formulation stabilities - Release profile and transdermal absorption : Franz diffusion cell - Tape stripping - Toxicity : in vitro and in vivo : Cytotoxicity - Phototoxicity - Irritation - Clinical tolerance DOI : 10.1111/ics.12592 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hKXFz0EV7RhNv8y9WlelgI4y2j52x-Ff/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33675 [article]

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Cosmetic benefits of a novel biomimetic lamellar formulation containing niacinamide in healthy females with oily, blemish-prone skin in a randomized proof-of-concept study / Joao-Paulo Santos-Caetano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 29-35 Titre : Cosmetic benefits of a novel biomimetic lamellar formulation containing niacinamide in healthy females with oily, blemish-prone skin in a randomized proof-of-concept study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joao-Paulo Santos-Caetano, Auteur ; C. F. Gfeller, Auteur ; H. Mahalingam, Auteur ; M. Thompson, Auteur ; David J. Moore, Auteur ; R. Vila, Auteur ; R. Doi, Auteur ; M.R. Cargill, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 29-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Chimie biomimétique Cosmétiques Imperfections cutanées Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A randomized study was designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturizing cream in oily, blemish-prone skin. - Methods : Healthy adult women with oily, blemish-prone skin were randomized to one of three treatment groups: test, control, or positive control. In the test group, subjects used the test product (containing 4% niacinamide), plus the standard cleanser (Simple® Kind to Skin Moisturizing Facial Wash). In the control group, subjects received no moisturizer but used the standard cleanser. In the positive control group, subjects used Vivatinell Acnecinamide® Gel Cream (containing 4% niacinamide) as a moisturizer and Neutrogena Visibly Clear® Spot Clearing Facial Wash (containing 2% salicylic acid) as a cleanser. The positive control regimen was included to provide a comparison for estimates of effect size. The primary objective was to evaluate skin moisturization as a change from baseline in corneometer values at 8 h for the test regimen vs. the control regimen. Analysis of covariance was applied for the primary efficacy analysis. - Results : A total of 132 subjects were randomized with 44 included in each treatment group. A significant difference was observed in the primary endpoint for the test regimen compared with the control regimen (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: 3.12 [0.68, 5.56], P = 0.0128). A trend was observed in favour of the positive control regimen compared with the control regimen. Secondary measurements of moisturization supported the primary efficacy outcome. Assessment of blemishes showed a significant difference between the test regimen vs. the control regimen for change from baseline in mean total blemish count at Week 8 (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: −1.80 [−3.41, −0.19], P = 0.0290). No statistical comparisons between the positive control group and the test group were performed. - Conclusion : This study provides proof-of-concept evidence that a novel lamellar lipid moisturizer containing niacinamide, in combination with a standard cleanser, can help moisturize the skin and provide an overall improvement in the complexion appearance of people with blemish-prone skin. Study registration: NCT03093181. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Subjects - Design - Assessments - Statistical methods - RESULTS : Primary efficacy - Secondary efficacy - Safety DOI : 10.1111/ics.12576 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yFFe46u8huUJT2o9csN_WMN-a8Ai8-rU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33676 [article]

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Acetyl zingerone : An efficacious multifunctional ingredient for continued protection against ongoing DNA damage in melanocytes after sun exposure ends / Ratan K. Chaudhuri in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 36-45 Titre : Acetyl zingerone : An efficacious multifunctional ingredient for continued protection against ongoing DNA damage in melanocytes after sun exposure ends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Auteur ; T. Meyer, Auteur ; S. Premi, Auteur ; D. Brash, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 36-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acétyl zingerone Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Dimères cyclobutyliques de pyrimidine Mélanocytes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Recent research has shown that significant levels of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) in DNA continue to form in melanocytes for several hours in the dark after exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) ends. We document the utility of a new multifunctional ingredient, 3-(4-hydroxy, 3-methoxybenzyl)-pentane-2,4-dione (INCI acetyl zingerone (AZ)), to protect melanocytes against CPD formation after UVR exposure ends. - Methods : The use of AZ as an intervention to reduce CPD formation after irradiation was assessed in vitro by comparing kinetic profiles of CPD formation for several hours after irradiation in cells that were untreated or treated with AZ immediately after irradiation. Multifunctional performance of AZ as an antioxidant, quencher and scavenger was established using industry-standard in vitro chemical assays, and then, its efficacy in a more biological assay was confirmed by its in vitro ability to reduce intracellular levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in keratinocytes exposed to UVA radiation. Molecular photostability was assessed in solution during exposure to solar-simulated UVR and compared with the conventional antioxidant a-tocopherol. - Results : Even when added immediately after irradiation, AZ significantly inhibited ongoing formation of CPDs in melanocytes after exposure to UVA. Incubation with AZ before irradiation decreased intracellular levels of UVA-induced ROS formation in keratinocytes. Compared with a-tocopherol, the molecular structure of AZ endows it with significantly better photostability and efficacy to neutralize free radicals (.OH, .OOH), physically quench singlet oxygen (1O2) and scavenge peroxynitrite (ONOO-). - Conclusion : These results designate AZ as a new type of multifunctional ingredient with strong potential to extend photoprotection of traditional sunscreens and daily skincare products over the first few hours after sun exposure ends. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Acetyl zingerone - Method of analysis by HPLC - Measurement of dark-CPD formation in melanocytes - Measurement of absorbance spectrum - Measurement of intracellular ROS in keratinocytes - In vitro determination of efficiencies to neutralize key ROS - Physical quenching of singlet oxygen (1O2) - Photochemical stability - RESULTS : Acetyl zingerone (AZ) significantly reduces dark-CPD formation within 1h after UVA exposure in melanocytes - Acetyl zingerone (AZ) significantly reduces intracellular ROS formation in keratinocytes after UVA exposure - Acetyl zingerone (AZ) possesses negligible absorbance in the UV spectral region - Acetyl zingerone (AZ) is an effective antioxidant, scavenger of peroxynitrite and physical quencher of 1O2 - Acetyl zingerone (AZ) is more photochemically stable than a-tocopherol DOI : 10.1111/ics.12582 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lUafPqltgREXBxkkduHLJ-_d2UjqSQQM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33677 [article]

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The efficacy of a highly occlusive formulation for dry lips / Eiko Tamura in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 46-52 Titre : The efficacy of a highly occlusive formulation for dry lips Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eiko Tamura, Auteur ; H. Yasumori, Auteur ; T. Yamamoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 46-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Cosmétiques Couche cornée Formulation (Génie chimique) Huiles et graisses Lèvres Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène Matériaux occlusifs Rugosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Since skin on the lips has a lower water content in the stratum corneum (SC) and a higher transepidermal water loss (TEWL) value than skin on the cheek, the lips are usually very dry and rough areas. Therefore, a lip balm approach to increase occlusivity of the lips is generally used to reduce water loss. Although there have been reports of an improvement effect on lip roughness by specific care agents, differences in the effects due to the occlusivity of a formulation without a specific care agent have not been reported. The purpose of this study was to clarify the improvement effect on dryness and roughness of the lips by a highly occlusive formulation consisting of a combination of common oil and wax, not by a specific care agent. - Methods : Twenty Japanese female subjects with normal skin (age range 20-39 years; mean 28.1) were enrolled in this study. A 4-week continuous use test was conducted using samples with low and high occlusivity. The degree of lip roughness and wrinkles was scored, the hollow index was assessed using ANTERA 3D images, and values of capacitance and TEWL were measured. - Results : The hollow index was significantly correlated with both the appearance roughness score and the wrinkle score. The sample with high occlusivity showed significant improvement in the appearance roughness score, wrinkle score, the hollow index and capacitance of the SC. In a comparison between the groups of samples with different occlusive properties, a significant improvement effect in rough appearance was seen in subjects using the highly occlusive formulation. - Conclusion : The hollow index assessed by ANTERA 3D imaging allowed the objective evaluation of the improvement in appearance. In the case of continuous use of the highly occlusive formulation, an improvement of capacitance in the SC, which is most correlated with lip roughness, was obtained after 2 and 4 weeks. These results demonstrate for the first time that a highly occlusive formulation is effective in improving the roughness of the lips, and this effect is due to the difference in the occlusive property not by a specific care agent. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ethics - Subjects - Materials - Measurment of occulisivity - Biophysical measurements of the SC - Degree of lip roughness and wrinkles - ANTERA 3D image analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Before continuous use - Relationship between the appearance score and the hollow index - Relationship between the appearance score and SC parameters - Relationship between the hollow index and SC parameters - Characteristics of lips after continuous use of samples - Changes in appearance score - Changes in the hollow index - Changes in SC functions - Comparison between two groups - DISCUSSION : Correlation betwen visual scores before continuous use and measurement data - Improvement effect by continuous use test DOI : 10.1111/ics.12583 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yhN4WjFj-QVS7CziyaPlEJ_ZmXKmeWrO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33678 [article]

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A new matrikine-derived peptide up-regulates longevity genes for improving extracellular matrix architecture and connections of dermal cell with its matrix / R. Leroux in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 53-59 Titre : A new matrikine-derived peptide up-regulates longevity genes for improving extracellular matrix architecture and connections of dermal cell with its matrix Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. Leroux, Auteur ; Caroline Ringenbach, Auteur ; Thibault Marchand, Auteur ; Olivier Peschard, Auteur ; Philippe Mondon, Auteur ; Pascaline Criton, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 53-59 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Composés organiques -- Synthèse Dermatologie Elisa, Test Le test ELISA est une méthode de laboratoire qualifiée d'immuno-enzymatique. Il s'agit d'un test immunologique, car il a pour principal objectif de mettre en évidence la présence d'anticorps ou d'antigènes spécifiques à une pathologie, dans un échantillon de sang. Cet examen utilise une protéine appelée enzyme, qui va se fixer à certains constituants spécifiques de la maladie, et par repérage et quantification de cette enzyme, la maladie pourra être affirmée, ainsi que son intensité évaluée. Génétique Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peptides Protéomique La protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à-dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données. Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité. Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances. La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine. La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin extracellular matrix (ECM) is a dense and well-organized structure produced by fibroblasts. This ECM transduces environmental mechano-signals to cell nucleus through the integrin–actin complex, thus triggering ECM protein syntheses. The aim of this study was to discover a novel peptide, structurally related to dermal matrikines, that promotes syntheses of ECM components. - Methods and results : Screening tests with 120 peptides were carried out by using normal dermal human fibroblasts (HF). As a result, one candidate of interest was isolated, the N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate (PP56), which increases collagen and fibronectin productions at gene and/or protein levels. Using liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS), a recent and innovative analytical technology, in addition to more traditional techniques, it was showed that two metabolic pathways were significantly modulated: one for collagen production and one for actin. Moreover, this peptide up-regulated the transcription of Forkhead Box O (FOXO) and sestrin messenger RNAs (mRNA), leading to production of proteins involved into longevity and more recently in collagen production. - Results : Results indicated that this peptide is a potential candidate to improve ECM density and organization in a new way. DOI : 10.1111/ics.12584 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1olOeZpOfAWMCm3QvyqVEsF9K-rZ-hDWs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33679 [article]

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Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations : a cross-cultural study / Livia Salomao Calixto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 60-67 Titre : Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations : a cross-cultural study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Livia Salomao Calixto, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur ; Céline Picard, Auteur ; Géraldine Savary, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 60-67 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Brésiliens Consommateurs -- Préférences Diffusion (physique) Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Etudes comparatives Formulation (Génie chimique) Français Pénétration (physique) Vectorisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross‐information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish cross‐culturally preferences. - Methods : For this, a total panel of 100 consumers of cosmetics evaluated four different products. The same protocol for the sensory analysis was followed in both countries. - Results : The panellists were able to perceive differences in the products and the method proved to be repeatable in both countries. The presence of UV filters in the formulation was noticed and displeased both populations. Brazilians, although dissatisfied with the sensory aspect of the sunscreen, are willing to use it for its UV protection. - Conclusion : This work delivers important information on the sensory perception of cosmetics by people from different countries and brings important knowledge to develop products with textural properties that will be appreciated worldwide. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples - Consumer panel - Experimental conditions - Descriptors - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Sensory perception of formulations - Correlation of rsults of both juries - Differences in assessors' preference DOI : 10.1111/ics.12586 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IifJoy_KaLcPFkXXjHJhtLoLywB_TPP4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33680 [article]

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NLRP inflammasomes and induced skin inflammation, barrier recovery and extended skin hydration / James V. Gruber in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 68-78 Titre : NLRP inflammasomes and induced skin inflammation, barrier recovery and extended skin hydration Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James V. Gruber, Auteur ; Venera Stojkoska, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 68-78 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Caspase Les caspases sont une classe de protéases à cystéine qui reconnaissent chacune une séquence particulière sur certaines protéines et hydrolysent la liaison peptidique côté carboxyle d'un résidu d'aspartate de cette séquence. Ces enzymes jouent un rôle essentiel dans les phénomènes inflammatoires ainsi que dans l'apoptose (mort cellulaire programmée) et la nécrose2. Le terme "caspase" est la contraction en anglais de l'expression cysteine-aspartic protease, parfois également écrite cysteine-dependent aspartate-directed protease, voire cysteinyl-aspartate-cleaving protease. Les caspases sont indispensables à l'apoptose des cellules, et jouent un rôle crucial au cours du développement et d'autres stades de la vie adulte. Elles sont dites "exécutrices" (executioner en anglais) en raison leur fonction dans la cellule. Certaines caspases sont également requises par le système immunitaire pour la maturation des lymphocytes. Une apoptose insuffisante est l'un des principaux facteurs contribuant au développement des tumeurs et des maladies auto-immunes, tandis qu'une apoptose excessive accompagne l'ischémie et maladie d'Alzheimer, de sorte que les caspases ont été étudiées comme cibles thérapeutiques potentielles depuis leur découverte au milieu des années 1990. Ces enzymes sont présentes dans le cytoplasme sous forme d'une proenzyme inactive. Ces protéines, appelées procaspases, sont activées par clivage en deux sous-unités, une grande et une petite, qui dimérisent pour former un hétérotétramère actif composé de deux grandes et deux petites sous-unités. Lorsqu'elles sont activées, elles participent à la mise en Å“uvre d'un "signal de mort cellulaire". Ce signal a été mis en évidence lors de l'identification et du clonage du gène pro-apoptotique ced-3 de Caenorhabditis elegans, dont le premier homologue mammifère ayant été identifié est le gène ICE (Interleukin-1β Converting Enzyme), ou CASP1, donnant la caspase 1. Dermo-cosmétologie Hydratation Inflammasomes Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Methods : Four anticipated exogenous activators of the NLRP inflammasome including : UVB, ATP, Nigericin and Urban Dust were examined. Follow-up studies examined the influence of extracellular application of three different natural blends of known anti-inflammatories, one a polysaccharide blend and the other two antioxidant blends, one oil-soluble the other water-soluble, to examine ACasp-1 inhibition. Clinical work using the same blend of polysaccharides employed at 3% in a moisturizing formulation was examined for skin barrier recovery, measured with TEWL over a 60-h time frame after tape stripping on 10 individuals, and extended moisturization, measured using corneometer conductance after a single product application out through a 48-h regression on 10 individuals. - Results : In vitro results indicated that two exogenous activators, 60 mJ cm-2 UVB and 5 mM ATP, worked to upregulate expression of ACasp-1 within a 20-h timeframe. Additional studies were conducted to examine the influence of three extracellularly applied active ingredient blends. A blend of polysaccharides demonstrated potential to inhibit ACasp-1 expression in both UVB- and ATP-activated skin cells. Oil-soluble and water-soluble antioxidant blends inhibited ACasp-1 expression in UVB-activated keratinocytes but not ATP-activated keratinocytes. Barrier disruption studies indicated that 3% of the polysaccharide blend accelerated barrier recovery in a 60-h time frame as measured by TEWL. Skin hydration studies showed an ability for the polysaccharide blend to show significant improvements in skin hydration out to 48 h after a single application vs. a moisturizing placebo. - Conclusions : The role of the skin’s innate immune response, controlled by NLRP inflammasomes, is beginning to be linked to numerous skin conditions including inflammaging. In this work, it was found that : (i) an in vitro assay could activate NHEKs to express NLRP inflammasome-induced ACasp-1 expression, (ii) Ingredient blends inhibited UVB and ATP-induced NLRP inflammasome-induced ACasp-1 expression, and (iii) skin barrier disruption improvements and extended skin hydration could be achieved with 3% of the polysaccharide blend. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro active caspase-1 study summary - In vitro treatment of activated NHEKs with extracellularly applied active ingredients - Clinical tape strip skin barrier disruption study - Clinical skin hydration 48h-h regression protocol details - RESULTS : Activation of caspase-1 release via NLRP inflammasomes in NHEKs - Influence of botanical blends on expression of active caspase-1 in NHEKs - Results of clinical examination of the poly blend 1 on skin barrier from tape stripping - Clinical examination of the blend 1 on 48-h skin hydration via regression analysis DOI : 10.1111/ics.12588 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u1fLtyYmIbanPxJKHEtrJ1yXwxFkGvf6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33681 [article]

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Theophylline exerts complex anti-ageing and anti-cytotoxicity effects in human skin ex vivo / Marta Bertolini in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 79-88 Titre : Theophylline exerts complex anti-ageing and anti-cytotoxicity effects in human skin ex vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marta Bertolini, Auteur ; Y. Ramot, Auteur ; Jennifer Gherardini, Auteur ; G. Heinen, Auteur ; Jérémy Chéret, Auteur ; T. Weiss, Auteur ; M. Giesen, Auteur ; Wolfgang Funk, Auteur ; Ralf Paus, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 79-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cellules souches Dermatologie Dermo-cosmétologie Mélatonine Ménadione La ménadione est une naphtoquinone synthétique analogue à la 1,4-naphtoquinone avec un groupe méthyle en position 2. Elle présente une activité biologique voisine de la vitamine K et est de ce fait appelée parfois vitamine K3, bien qu'il s'agisse plus exactement d'une provitamine K2 en tant que précurseur des ménaquinones. La ménadione n'est plus utilisée dans les compléments alimentaires des pays développés en raison d'effets secondaires délétères tels que l'anémie hémolytique résultant d'un favisme acquis, ou bien des anomalies induites chez le nourrisson au niveau du cerveau et du foie, voire de rares cas de mort subite du nourrisson. Pourtant cet usage est largement répandu chez les tradipraticiens congolais et guinéens qui l'utilisent comme substitut de la quinine. La ménadione est cependant encore utilisée comme supplément vitaminique auprès des populations à faibles revenus des pays en voie de développement, ainsi que dans l'alimentation du bétail dans de nombreux pays. Elle est également parfois ajoutée à l'alimentation des animaux domestiques des pays développés. Elle fait l'objet de recherches en chimiothérapie associée à la vitamine C contre le cancer de la prostate et pour réduire les déficits en prothrombine (facteur de coagulation II) et les risques d'hémorragies associés. De plus, un déficit de production serait en cause dans certains cas d'infection de Staphylococcus aureus résistant aux antibiotiques. Métallothionéine Les métallothionéines (MTs) sont des protéines de faibles poids moléculaire (6-10 kDa) caractérisées par leur structure et une haute affinité pour les ions métalliques. Elles sont présentes chez tous les animaux. Présentes chez de nombreux animaux et chez tous les mammifères1, elles contribuent à la détoxication des organes et cellules. Elles peuvent inhiber l'action de certains médicaments (anticancéreux alkylants notamment). Peau -- Soins et hygiène Théophylline La théophylline est un alcaloïde du type méthylxanthine. Il s'agit de la 1,3-diméthyl xanthine. C'est, avec d'autres alcaloïdes comme la caféine ou la théobromine, l'une des principales substances actives des feuilles de thé, d'où elle tire son nom. Elle est également présente entre autres dans le café, le chocolat, le maté et le guarana. Elle agit comme diurétique, comme psychostimulant, comme bronchodilatateur et comme agent lipolytique. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Theophylline is a phosphodiesterase inhibitor that is being used clinically for asthma therapy. In addition, it is recognized as a cosmetic agent with possible anti-ageing and anti-oxidative properties. Nevertheless, how it affects human skin is still poorly examined. - Methods : Theophylline (10 or 100 µM) was administered to the culture medium of full-thickness human skin ex vivo for 24 or 72 h. - Results : Theophylline stimulated protein expression of the anti-oxidant metallothionein-1 and mRNA levels of collagen I and III. Assessment of fibrillin-1 immunohistology revealed enhanced structural stability of dermal microfibrils. Theophylline also exerted extracellular matrix-protective effects by decreasing MMP-2 and MMP-9 mRNA levels, partially antagonizing the effects of menadione, the potent, toxic ROS donor. In addition, it decreased menadione-stimulated epidermal keratinocytes apoptosis. Interestingly, theophylline also increased the level of intracutaneously produced melatonin, that is the most potent ROS-protective and DNA damage repair neuromediator, and tendentially increased protein expression of MT1, the melatonin receptor. Theophylline also increased the expression of keratin 15, the stem cell marker, in the epidermal basal layer but did not change mitochondrial activity or epidermal pigmentation. - Conclusion : This ex vivo pilot study in human skin shows that theophylline possesses several interesting complex skin-protective properties. It encourages further examination of theophylline as a topical candidate for anti-ageing treatment. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human skin organ culture - Immunofluorescence microscopy and Masson-Fontana histochemistry - Quantitative real-time reverse transcriptase-PCR (qRT-PCR) and ELISA - Quantitative immunohistomorphometry - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Theophylline improves selected major human skin ageing parameters - Theophylline partially antagonizes keratinocytes apoptosis induced by menadione - Theophylline increases melatonin levels and MT1 expression - Theophylline does not affect epidermal pigmentation or mitochondrial activity - Theophylline stimulates keratin 15 expression - DOI : 10.1111/ics.12589 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OOtRCOyHmf3a4T_hl79Cuv5LpXwLcsO9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33682 [article]

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Hair surface quality : Laser scattering as a tool for characterizing the surface condition and deposits from shampoos and conditioners / Germain Puccetti in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 89-98 Titre : Hair surface quality : Laser scattering as a tool for characterizing the surface condition and deposits from shampoos and conditioners Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Germain Puccetti, Auteur ; L. Kulesar, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 89-98 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène lasers shampooings Surfaces -- Analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The hair surface condition underlies many visually perceived attributes such as shine, colour and the 3D perception of a curly hair style. Many factors can alter the hair surface such as cumulated cleansing/styling regimens or chemical treatments which can lead to degradation of the cuticle edges and surface. Similarly, pollutants, sebum, and shampoo/conditioners can build up on the hair surface which are also perceivable to an observer. - Methods : The highly directive light of a laser is reflected and scattered by the surface of hair fibres into a circular pattern. The angular and spatial characteristics of this pattern reflect the hair geometry and the quality of the hair surface, i.e. the outer cuticle layer. Dark flat hair tresses were used to measure the impact of artificial sebum and shampoo/conditioner regimens on the cuticle surfaces. Also, longer single hair fibres from 4 volunteers were characterized for their surface changes from roots to tips, i.e. over the chronological age of the hair. - Results : The laser scattering shows clear changes in specular reflection characteristics from treatments and allows for the extraction of the cuticle inclination angle with respect to the hair axis. Deep cleansing or clarifying shampoos do partially restore the cuticle angle by removing residues on the hair surface whereas more conditioning systems can lead to changes in specular reflection angle and scattering, especially for multiple cycles of shampoo + conditioner treatments. Lastly, changes in hair surface can be traced over time of hair age by this approach and are consistent with frequency and nature of hair treatments. - Conclusions : The method shows great potential for characterizing cleansing regimens in terms of their impact on the hair surface, either as single or multiple washes. Coverage or damage to the hair cuticles appears readily as an angle shift of the specular reflection whereas the quality of the surface topology has a direct impact on the angular width of the specular reflection thus affecting the shine band on a person’s head. Hair ageing from root to tip can be quantified by laser scattering and correlates well with treatment events in time. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY - MODEL - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Shampoo cleansing efficacy - Deposits from shampoos and conditioners - Changes in hair surface condition with cumulated daily damage DOI : 10.1111/ics.12590 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dVYQJIE3xcjol2uGEhwpBgATCU9qwsD4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33683 [article]

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An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand / P. Seroul in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 99-107 Titre : An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. Seroul, Auteur ; Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Sarah Gougeon, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; Rainer Voegeli, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 99-107 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Cartographie  faciale'  Pertinence  'Couleur  de  peau'  Statistiques  Thailandaise Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : There are methods to evaluate skin colour on defined areas over the face but no approach automatically and accurately evaluates skin colour variations on large facial areas, comparing subjects, treatments and/or time points. We propose such an image-based approach to visualize quickly the outcome of clinical studies on colour variations. - Methods : Among 54 Asian women, one group applied a vehicle twice daily, during 28 days, and the other group an anti-ageing emulsion, taking facial images at baseline and after treatment. Changes in L*a*b* values were studied on four pre-selected facial regions. We also reconstructed average facial images from which the L*a*b* parameters were extracted for every pixel, computing relevance (ΔE) and significance data. Using colour gradients, we mapped these results onto the average facial images. - Results : After treatment, L*a*b* parameters show no statistically relevant colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, skin was lighter at the upper cheek and, overall, redness decreased. Relevance and significance maps confirmed no visible colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, the mapping approach revealed colour changes and their location. Skin became lighter below the eye, cheek and forehead. It was less red below the eyes, on the cheek, jawline and forehead, and generally more yellow. - Conclusion : Our image-based mapping approach proves to be powerful. It enables us to identify precise facial regions of relevant and statistically significant colour changes after a topical treatment, regions that would have otherwise been undetected. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects and treatment - Acquisition of facial images and pre-processing - Classical determination of L*, a* and b* colour parameters - Image-based mapping of relevance and significance of changes in skin colour - RESULTS : Classical L*a*b* colour analysis only shows changes for subjects treated with the active formulation - Relevance maps indicate visible colour changes but gives little information on the nature of the changes - Significance maps give a detailed insight on colour changes over time DOI : 10.1111/ics.12593 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a-e0LZJdU_DTNY2U1EOZLJHjwKnjWrX8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33684 [article]

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