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Renewable sources : applications in personal care formulations / Fotini Mellou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 517-525 Titre : Renewable sources : applications in personal care formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fotini Mellou, Auteur ; Athanasia Varvaresou, Auteur ; S. Papageorgiou, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 517-525 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biotechnologie Dermo-cosmétologie Fermentation Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed. DOI : 10.1111/ics.12564 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BEGDmnYPWb2M_fXTDAEI6GKzlL1bqL4S/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33660 [article]

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Innovations in skin camouflaging techniques : Where are we scientifically ? / Emma Derbyshire in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 526-533 Titre : Innovations in skin camouflaging techniques : Where are we scientifically ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emma Derbyshire, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 526-533 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatoses Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Masquage Peau -- Anatomopathologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There does not appear to have been any recent reviews about innovations in skin camouflaging techniques. - Methods : Using the National Centre for Biotechnology Information PubMed database, a search was made for all studies published between 2000 and 2019 that met defined inclusion criteria. A total of seven relevant publications were identified. - Results : Of the seven studies identified, skin camouflaging improved quality of life in three studies and reduced anxiety, depression and social isolation in others. Of the camouflaging methods used, liquidized simulated second skin technology (Microskinâ„¢) appears to look particularly promising. This method of colour matching and a spray/stippling application uses a technology that binds to the epidermis of the skin helping to overcome previous concerns about the colour, coverage and application of camouflage and masking bases. Two studies showed that this innovative mode of camouflaging raised confidence, feelings of happiness and social experiences in children and adolescents with burn scarring. Very few studies reported drawbacks of camouflaging techniques, with limited colour matches and ‘itching’ appearing to be the main shortcomings. New technologies now appear to be addressing these. - Conclusion : Results show that there is wide variation in the quality and modes of skin camouflaging. Of the methods used, simulated second skin technology appears to be an important and effective therapy for individuals with cutaneous skin disorders. Training schemes along with increased awareness of this technique must now be communicated to medical professionals who come into contact with children and adults who could benefit physically, psychologically and socially from this therapy. Note de contenu : - Strategy for literature search - Inclusion and exclusion criteria - Results : Camoufling techniques - Efficacy - Other findings - Discussion - Limitations and future research DOI : 10.1111/ics.12575 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ktFDjf4mUSEWhJPxn_nvdNMbjvPXsFep/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33661 [article]

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Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin / Stéphanie J. Nisbet in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 534-547 Titre : Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stéphanie J. Nisbet, Auteur ; D. Targett, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; K. Qian, Auteur ; X. Wang, Auteur ; M. A. Thompson, Auteur ; P. A. Bulsara, Auteur ; D. J. Moore, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 534-547 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Etude in vitro Etudes cliniques Evaluation Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rougeurs cutanées Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Sensibilité cutanée Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin. - Methods : The anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014–2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo-irritation, and photo-sensitization were evaluated. Self-assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use. - Results : Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E2, interleukin-6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2-fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2-fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo-irritation, photo-sensitization or product-related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies. - Conclusion : The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self-perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin. Note de contenu : - METHODS : In vitro studies - Clinical trials - AR day cream and AR serum - RESULTS : In vitro studies - Clinical studies DOI : 10.1111/ics.12559 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C4bukMf3ZTnEUO1YC9iiGiYSkLqXKBGR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33662 [article]

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A natural skin anti-ageing serum containing pseudobulb ethanolic extract of Grammatophyllum speciosum : a randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled trial / V. Chowjarean in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 548-557 Titre : A natural skin anti-ageing serum containing pseudobulb ethanolic extract of Grammatophyllum speciosum : a randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled trial Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : V. Chowjarean, Auteur ; P. P. Phiboonchaiyanan, Auteur ; S. Harikarnpakdee, Auteur ; Parkpoom Tengamnuay, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 548-557 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse quantitative (chimie) Antiâge:Antirides Antioxydants Biomolécules actives Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Dermo-cosmétologie Etudes cliniques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Grammatophyllum speciosum is utilized to treat sore throats and bronchitis In Thai folk medicine. This study evaluated the in vitro activity and clinical efficacy of a G. speciosum pseudobulb decoction. - Methods : Measure of in vitro anti-ageing activity was performed using non-cell based assays as well as in CRL 2097 human fibroblast cells. A prophetic patch test method was used to determine skin irritation in 24 healthy Thai volunteers. A randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled trial was conducted with 24 subjects for 56 days after facial application to evaluate efficacy. The results were measured with Visioface® and Cutometer® MPA 580 as well as by visual observations. - Results : The total content of the antioxidant polyphenols in G. speciosum ethanolic extract (GSE) was 48.19 ± 0.39 mg EGCG equivalent per gram. The GSE possessed potent and higher anti-elastase activity more than EGCG. The extract was able to protect human fibroblasts against superoxide anion-induced cell death at the concentration of 10 µg mL-1. In a clinical study, facial application of the serum containing 0.5% GSE was found to safely increase skin distensibility in healthy volunteers. Skin viscoelasticity and wrinkle volume were also significantly reduced (P < 0.05). - Conclusion : Thus, both the in vitro and the clinical studies have illustrated the anti-wrinkle/anti-ageing benefits of GSE on human skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Plant material preparation of G. speciosum pseudobulb extract - Quality control of G. speciosum bulb extract - Non-cell-based assays - Cell-based assay in skin fibroblast cellline - Stability and physicochemicl characteristic of the G. speciosum - Stability of serum containing G. speciosum extract - Clinical trial testing - Sensory and visual assessment - Statistical analysis DOI : 10.1111/ics.12571 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MX3zh0VXFywQ_fHe-7rgmznojbYxjwzm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33663 [article]

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Blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm and create damage in skin cells / K. Dong in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 558-562 Titre : Blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm and create damage in skin cells Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K. Dong, Auteur ; E. C. Goyarts, Auteur ; E. Pelle, Auteur ; J. Trivero, Auteur ; N. Pernodet, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 558-562 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Génétique Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Lumière bleue Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Plan d'expérience Rythmes circadiens Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : On a daily basis, the skin is exposed to many environmental stressors and insults. Over a 24-h natural cycle, during the day, the skin is focused on protection ; while at night, the skin is focused on repairing damage that occurred during daytime and getting ready for the next morning. Circadian rhythm provides the precise timing mechanism for engaging those different pathways necessary to keep a healthy skin through clock genes that are present in all skin cells. The strongest clue for determining cellular functions timing is through sensing light or absence of light (darkness). Here, we asked the question if blue light could be a direct entrainment signal to skin cells and also disrupt their circadian rhythm at night. Through a reporter assay for per1 transcription, we demonstrate that blue light at 410 nm decreases per1 transcription in keratinocytes, showing that epidermal skin cells can sense light directly and control their own clock gene expression. This triggers cells to "think" it is daytime even at nighttime. Elsewhere, we measured different skin cell damage because of blue light exposure (at different doses and times of exposure) vs. cells that were kept in full darkness. We show an increase in ROS production, DNA damage and inflammatory mediators. These deleterious effects can potentially increase overall skin damage over time and ultimately accelerates ageing. Note de contenu : - QUESTIONS ADDRESSED - EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN : Cells - Treatment - Per 1 expression assay - H2O2 analysis - Cytokine analysis - DNA damage DOI : 10.1111/ics.12572 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C2_elTvQpR3FRY4dOfwLMiVivzNnFBgm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33664 [article]

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The importance of 12R-lipoxygenase and transglutaminase activities in the hydration-dependent ex vivo maturation of corneocyte envelopes / Dilek Guneri in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 563-578 Titre : The importance of 12R-lipoxygenase and transglutaminase activities in the hydration-dependent ex vivo maturation of corneocyte envelopes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dilek Guneri, Auteur ; Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; S. Doppler, Auteur ; C. Zhang, Auteur ; A. I. Bankousli, Auteur ; M. R. Munday, Auteur ; M. E. Lane, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 563-578 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antienzymes Cornéocytes Couche cornée Dermatologie Enzymes Une enzyme est une protéine dotée de propriétés catalytiques. Pratiquement toutes les biomolécules capables de catalyser des réactions chimiques dans les cellules sont des enzymes ; certaines biomolécules catalytiques sont cependant constituées d'ARN et sont donc distinctes des enzymes : ce sont les ribozymes. Une enzyme agit en abaissant l'énergie d'activation d'une réaction chimique, ce qui accroît la vitesse de réaction. L'enzyme n'est pas modifiée au cours de la réaction. Les molécules initiales sont les substrats de l'enzyme, et les molécules formées à partir de ces substrats sont les produits de la réaction. Presque tous les processus métaboliques de la cellule ont besoin d'enzymes pour se dérouler à une vitesse suffisante pour maintenir la vie. Les enzymes catalysent plus de 5 000 réactions chimiques différentes2. L'ensemble des enzymes d'une cellule détermine les voies métaboliques qui peuvent avoir lieu dans cette cellule. L'étude des enzymes est appelée enzymologie. Les enzymes permettent à des réactions de se produire des millions de fois plus vite qu'en leur absence. Un exemple extrême est l'orotidine-5'-phosphate décarboxylase, qui catalyse en quelques millisecondes une réaction qui prendrait, en son absence, plusieurs millions d'années3,4. Comme tous les catalyseurs, les enzymes ne sont pas modifiées au cours des réactions qu'elles catalysent, et ne modifient pas l'équilibre chimique entre substrats et produits. Les enzymes diffèrent en revanche de la plupart des autres types de catalyseurs par leur très grande spécificité. Cette spécificité découle de leur structure tridimensionnelle. De plus, l'activité d'une enzyme est modulée par diverses autres molécules : un inhibiteur enzymatique est une molécule qui ralentit l'activité d'une enzyme, tandis qu'un activateur de cette enzyme l'accélère ; de nombreux médicaments et poisons sont des inhibiteurs enzymatiques. Par ailleurs, l'activité d'une enzyme décroît rapidement en dehors de sa température et de son pH optimums. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Terminally differentiated keratinocytes acquire corneocyte protein envelopes (CPE) complexed with corneocyte lipid envelopes (CLE). These two structural components of the corneocyte envelopes (CEs) undergo maturation by gaining in hydrophobicity, rigidity and surface area. Linoleoyl acylceramides are processed by 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX) and other enzymes before transglutaminase (TG) attaches w-hydroxyceramides to involucrin in the CPE. Concurrently, structural proteins are cross-linked by TG that has been activated by cathepsin D (CathD). - Objectives : The primary aim of this work was to demonstrate the impact of relative humidity (RH) during ex vivo CE maturation. Low, optimal and high RH were selected to investigate the effect of protease inhibitors (PIs) on CE maturation and TG activity ; in addition, 12R-LOX and CathD activity were measured at optimal RH. Finally, the effect of glycerol on ex vivo CE maturation was tested at low, optimal and high RH. - Methods : The first and ninth tape strip of photo-exposed (PE) cheek and photo-protected (PP) post-auricular sites of healthy volunteers were selected. Ex vivo CE maturation was assessed via the relative CE maturity (RCEM) approach based on CE rigidity and hydrophobicity. The second and eighth tapes were exposed to RH in the presence of inhibitors. - Results : Irrespective of tape stripping depth, CEs from PE samples attained CE rigidity to the same extent as mature CEs from the PP site, but such improvement was lacking for CE hydrophobicity. 70% RH was optimal for ex vivo CE maturation. The inhibition of 12R-LOX activity resulted in enhanced CE rigidity which was reduced by the TG inhibitor. CE hydrophobicity remained unchanged during ex vivo maturation in the presence of TG or 12R-LOX inhibition. CE hydrophobicity was enhanced in the presence of glycerol at 44% RH and 100% RH but not at 70% RH. Furthermore, TG activity was significantly diminished at 100% RH compared to the commercial inhibitor LDN-27219. However, a protease inhibitor mix reversed the negative effect of overhydration. - Conclusion : The study adds to the understanding of the roles of 12R-LOX and TG activity in CE maturation and gives further insight into the effect of glycerol on the SC. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Recruitment of participants - SC sampling - Ex vivo CE maturation - CE isolation and determination of relative CE, maturity - Transglutaminase activity assay - Cathepsin D activity assay - 12R-LOX ACTIVITY ASSAY : Statistics - RESULTS : The effect of relative humidity on ex vivo CE maturation - The influence of protease inhibition at low, optimal and high RH on ex vivo CE maturation - The importance of TG in ex vivo CE maturation at optimal RH - TG activity in ex vivo matured CEs - The impact of 12R-lipooxygenase blockage during ex vivo CE maturation at 70% RH - The influence of glycerol on ex vivo CE maturation at 44% RH - The effect of glycerol on ex vivo CE maturation at 70% - The impact of glycerol on ex vivo CE maturation at 100% RH DOI : 10.1111/ics.12574 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13RZFqs-YiZkjuURQ_JTMEZLzc0e6cLts/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33665 [article]

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Application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques to evaluate the film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations / M. O. de Melo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 579-584 Titre : Application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques to evaluate the film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. O. de Melo, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 579-584 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Evaluation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formation de film Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Imagerie (technique) Mesures biophysiques Microscopie confocale Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Products with film-forming effect, or 'second skin', which guarantees an immediate protective effect after application, is a highlight, especially when composed of natural ingredients. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the immediate film-forming effect on skin of a gel and emulsion formulations added with Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa extracts through biophysical and skin imaging techniques, especially with the Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM). - Methods : The measurements were done in the forearm region before (baseline) and 1 h after of application of the developed formulation and its control. The parameters related to the stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), cutaneous microrelief and morphological and structural characteristics of the epidermis were analysed through the following biophysical and skin imaging techniques: Corneometer® CM 825, Tewameter® TM 300, Visioscan® VC98 and Vivascope® 1500, respectively. A sensorial analysis was also performed to study how the formulations were perceived on the skin. - Results : The obtained results showed that the active ingredient under study allows the film formation on the skin surface, leading to a reduction of TEWL and skin desquamation. The obtained images from RCM showed a reduction of furrows on the skin surface and a film formation after a single application of the formulations. However, these effects were more pronounced in the emulsion formulation, which suggests a synergistic effect of the active ingredient under study with the emollients of formulation composition. This result was also observed in the sensorial analysis, as both formulations added with the active substance were well evaluated. - Conclusion : The presence of Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa extracts in the studied cosmetic formulations, enabled a film formation on a skin surface, bringing benefits as a reduction of transepidermal water loss and skin desquamation, as well as a furrows reduction and an improvement of stratum corneum after 1 h of application. Finally, the skin imaging techniques can be suggested as an excellent tool to evaluate a film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Objective - METHODS : Casuistic - Intrumentation DOI : 10.1111/ics.12577 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12yWNN65fsV1lHcRrbRf_0i9m9ZB75guu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33666 [article]

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Alginate microparticles as carriers for the UV filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate : Influence on photostability / J. Duarte in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 585-593 Titre : Alginate microparticles as carriers for the UV filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate : Influence on photostability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Duarte, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur ; M. Costa, Auteur ; E. S. Da Silva, Auteur ; J. L. Faria, Auteur ; José M. Sousa Lobo, Auteur ; Paulo Jorge Cardoso Costa, Auteur ; S. Scalia, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 585-593 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alginate de sodium L'alginate de sodium ou polymannuronate sodique, de formule NaC6H7O6 est un additif alimentaire (E401) utilisé dans les boissons, constitué d’alginate et de sodium. Il se présente sous forme de poudre blanche à blanc crème, inodore et sans saveur, très soluble dans l'eau. C'est une longue molécule extraite d'algues brunes, constituée d'unités de glucides reliées ensemble pour former une chaîne. Cosmétiques Encapsulation Octyl méthoxycinnamate Particules (matières) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photostabilité Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The organic ultraviolet UVB filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) was encapsulated in microparticles (MPs) of sodium alginate and co-loaded with vitamin E (Vit.E) by an extrusion process using an aerodynamically assisted jetting (AAJ) methodology. The aim was to assess the effect of encapsulation concerning UVB filter release from the MPs and its photochemical stability. - Methods : The EHMC photostability was analysed by exposing the samples (both MPs in aqueous dispersion and incorporated in a cream preparation) during 1 h to simulated solar light. For the MPs (empty-MP, EHMC-MP and EHMC + Vit.E-MP), the morphology and size were characterized ; while in the case of the encapsulated samples, the amount of EHMC-loading was determined. The release of EHMC was evaluated by adding EHMC-MP or EHMC + Vit.E-MP to 65% ethanol in water under mechanical stirring at 32°C. - Results : All MPs showed a homogeneous size distribution with a median of 90.5 ± 2.5 µm for EHMC-MP and 70.4 ± 1.14 µm for EHMC + Vit.E-MP. The encapsulation efficiency was 92.9% and 99.4% for EHMC-MP and EHMC + Vit.E-MP, respectively. The observed release from the MPs was lower than the dissolution of the pure UV filter. EHMC-MP and EHMC + Vit.E-MP were successfully incorporated into a cream formulation, with no evidence of phase separation or colour modification. Upon simulated light exposure, the photoisomerization/phototransformation of EHMC encapsulated in MPs and Vit.E-MP decreased as compared to free EHMC, both in aqueous dispersion and as a cream. The conformational ratio of the isomers (Z-/E-EHMC) was found to be the lowest in the presence of Vit.E. - Conclusion : This work demonstrates that use of these alginate microparticulate carriers could enhance the effectiveness of sunscreen preparations containing this UVB filter. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : materials - Microparticles production - Microparticles freeze drying - EHMC assay - Microparticles characterization - Cream preparation - Photostability - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Microparticles characterization DOI : 10.1111/ics.12578 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vdfA1ng0cfaEgKvHauMvWo7OC225Zq7X/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33667 [article]

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A human skin model to evaluate the protective effect of compounds against UVA damage / Sophie Abadie in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 594-603 Titre : A human skin model to evaluate the protective effect of compounds against UVA damage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Abadie, Auteur ; Philippe Bedos, Auteur ; J. Rouquette, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 594-603 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Explant de peau Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Rayonnement ultraviolet A Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main function of skin is to protect the body from external aggressions. Over time, normal skin ageing is accelerated by external stresses such as smoking, pollution, chemical products and radiation. UV light, in particular UVA, causes DNA damage, apoptosis and morphological modifications, which are responsible for both premature ageing and cancer. The aim of this study was to establish a discriminatory and sufficiently reproducible cutaneous model for evaluating UVA damage, to enable testing for effectiveness of potentially protective compounds. - Methods : The cutaneous model is based on Human skin explants irradiated with UVA. Deleterious effects on epidermis were observed and quantified by haematoxylin–eosin staining and by immunofluorescence of y-H2Ax, cytokeratin 5, involucrin and loricrin protein. Dermis deterioration was evaluated by transmission electronic microscopy and zymography in situ. - Results : We were able to observe and quantify deleterious effects associated with UVA irradiation: epidermal and dermal disruption, appearance of Sunburn cells, increased DNA damage and induced apoptosis. The use of this model in the evaluation of protective compounds was first confirmed using sunscreens, then further validated with a panel of active ingredients which showed beneficial effects on epidermis morphology and DNA integrity after UVA exposure. - Conclusion : We have developed a model and a standardized protocol, based on the use of human skin explants, which allows us to explore the protective effect of active ingredients to environmental stresses such as UVA. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human skin tissue collection - UVA irradiation - Compounds - Histological analysis - Immunostaining - TUNEL assay - Transmission electron microscopy on dermis - Zymography in situ - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : UVA irradiation causes epidermal disruption - UVA irradiation induces double-strand DNA breaks and apoptosis of keratinocytes - Effects of UVA irradiation on the extracellular matrix of the dermis - A cutaneous model to explore the effect of new protective compounds against UVA DOI : 10.1111/ics.12579 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oEJ8PMUgmYbSCqYb-rUmWILUY8tIbO0L/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33668 [article]

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Incorporation of Cro thermal water in a dermocosmetic formulation: cytotoxicity effects, characterization and stability studies and efficacy evaluation / F. Nunes in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 604-612 Titre : Incorporation of Cro thermal water in a dermocosmetic formulation: cytotoxicity effects, characterization and stability studies and efficacy evaluation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : F. Nunes, Auteur ; M. Rodrigues, Auteur ; M. P. Ribeiro, Auteur ; E. Ugazio, Auteur ; R. Cavalli, Auteur ; O. Abollino, Auteur ; P. Coutinho, Auteur ; André R. T. S. Araujo, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 604-612 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sources thermales Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Development of cosmetic formulations to provide a controlled release of hydrophilic active compounds from mineral medicinal waters constitutes an attractive challenge. The objective of this study was the development and the characterization of a dermocosmetic gel formulation with Cró thermal water, from Beira Interior of Portugal, as a major functional ingredient. - Methods : Concentrations of mineral chemical elements of Cró thermal water were previously determined by inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometry or mass spectrometry and cytotoxicity assays using thermal water were carried out on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) cells. Then, the Cró thermal water was included (more than 90%) in a developed gel formulation that was characterized through rheological and texture analysis and submitted to stability assays during 30 days. The effects on the skin volunteers, namely skin pH, the degree of hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin relief, were evaluated through non-invasive biometric techniques. A gel formulation including purified water was used as a control. - Results : Cró thermal water is rich on several chemical elements in particular sodium, silica, potassium and calcium besides some trace elements, with important functions for the skin. NHDF cells adhered and proliferated in the presence of thermal water confirming the biocompatibility of the major component of the gel formulation. The developed gel formulation based on thermal water resulted in an improvement of textural parameters, comparing with the purified water-based one. Significant improvements in the cutaneous biometric parameters (degree of hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin relief) of volunteers were also registered for the gel formulation containing thermal water. - Conclusion : This study demonstrated for the first time the potential benefits of Cró thermal water in a gel formulation to be used in cosmetic and dermatological applications. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test materials - Determination of the chemical composition of the Cro thermal water - Proliferation of human fibroblast cells in the presence of Cro thermal water - Characterization of the cytotoxic profile of Cro thermal water - Preparation of gel formulation - Characterization and stability of the gel formulation - Efficacy evaluation of the developed gel formulation through cutaneous biometry - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Chemical composition of Cro thermal water - Proliferation and cytotoxicity evaluation of the Cro thermal water - Characterization and stability studies of the developed gel formulation - Efficacy evaluation of the developed gelf ormulation through cutaneaous biometry DOI : 10.1111/ics.12580 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GEETpm2lJTbh-Xa1A6npXxLfq_HyhmUd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33669 [article]

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A proof-of-principle study comparing barrier function and cell morphology in face and body skin / Mihaela Gorcea in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 613-616 Titre : A proof-of-principle study comparing barrier function and cell morphology in face and body skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mihaela Gorcea, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur ; David J. Moore, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 613-616 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Avant-bras Barrière cutanée Cornéocytes Couche cornée Joues Mesure Perte insensible en eau Tailles des cellules Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The purpose of this pilot in vivo study was to investigate corneocyte size and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in facial cheek and volar forearm skin as a function of consecutive tape stripping. Changes in corneocyte size and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured as a function of stratum corneum (SC) depth at both anatomical sites. To our knowledge, this is the first published quantitative comparison based on these parameters. This work complements our previously published studies on face skin barrier recovery at 24 h and 4 weeks post-tape stripping [Gorcea et al., Skin Res. Technol., 19, 2013, e375-e382 ; Gorcea et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 35, 2013, 250]. - Methods : Transepidermal water loss in vivo measurements of forearm and facial skin sites were taken before tape stripping commenced (baseline) and after each tape was collected. Optical microscopy and image analysis techniques were employed to characterize corneocyte size as a function of skin depth (tape strip number) for both anatomical sites. - Results : Transepidermal water loss increased significantly from baseline with sequential tape stripping at both anatomical skin sites. Volar forearm skin required approximately three times as many tapes to 'damage' the SC barrier (arbitrarily defined as twice baseline TEWL) compared to facial cheek skin demonstrating significant differences in barrier properties between cheeks and forearms (P < 0.05). Corneocyte size decreased significantly with depth for both sites (P < 0.001). Corneocytes from face skin were significantly smaller than corneocytes from volar forearm skin. - Conclusion : Statistically significant differences between facial and body skin stratum corneum cell morphology and transepidermal water loss were demonstrated and quantitatively measured as a function of tape stripping. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Volunteer recruitment - Tape stripping - Transepidermal water loss - Corneocyte surface area- Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : TEWL : cheeks and volar forearms - Corneocyte size depth profile : facial cheeks and volar forearms - Corneocyte morphology DOI : 10.1111/ics.12568 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aySIeFJSPOBSyMkGUgAKHAdKfgsAqysC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33670 [article]

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Formulation of survival acceptor medium able to maintain the viability of skin explants over in vitro dermal experiments / M. Tarnowska in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 617-623 Titre : Formulation of survival acceptor medium able to maintain the viability of skin explants over in vitro dermal experiments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Tarnowska, Auteur ; Stéphanie Briançon, Auteur ; J. Resende de Azevedo, Auteur ; Yves Chevalier, Auteur ; C. Barratier, Auteur ; T. Pourcher, Auteur ; Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 617-623 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Diffusion (physique) Etude in vitro Explant de peau Franz, Cellules de Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Pénétration (physique) Tests de sécurité Vectorisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In vitro assessments of skin absorption of xenobiotics are essential for toxicological evaluations and bioavailability studies of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients. Since skin metabolism can greatly contribute to xenobiotic absorption, experiments need to be performed with skin explants kept viable in suitable survival media. Existing protocols for non-viable skin are modified to consider those conditions. The objective was to design a survival medium used as an acceptor fluid in Franz cells for testing cutaneous penetration of hydrophilic or lipophilic molecules. Their metabolism inside skin may be investigated under the same conditions. The determining factors involved in survival mechanisms in vitro are discussed. The consequences of short-term skin preservation at 4°C were also evaluated. - Methods : The metabolic activity of fresh skin samples mounted in Franz cells was studied by measurement of lactate release over 24 h in order to assess the impacts of pH, buffering, osmolality, ionic strength, initial glucose supply and the addition of ethanol or non-ionic surfactant in the acceptor part of Franz cells. - Conclusion : Survival media must maintain physiological pH (>5.5) be isotonic with skin cells (300 mOsm kg−1) and contain at least 0.5 g L−1 glucose. Several compositions able to preserve skin metabolism are reported. Storage of skin explants overnight at 4°C impairs skin metabolic activity. The present work provides guidelines for designing survival media according to constraints related to the scientific requirements of the experiments. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Chemicals - Methods - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Impact of pH control - Impact of osmolality - Impact of initial glucose concentration - Impact of additives used in receptor fluid for penetration studies of hydrophobic molecules - Influence of short-time storage of skin explants at 4°C DOI : 10.1111/ics.12581 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E1etDHdSDixcSc7AylceBiX0FDRvyH8o/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33671 [article]

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Expression and ultrastructural localization of plasmin(ogen) in the terminally differentiated layers of normal human epidermis / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 624-628 Titre : Expression and ultrastructural localization of plasmin(ogen) in the terminally differentiated layers of normal human epidermis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; M. Haflek, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 624-628 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Physiologie/structure  de  la  peau'  'Étiquetage  Immunomarquage  à  l'or'  'La  microscopie  électronique  transmission'  'Enveloppe  cornéocyte'  'Corps  lamellaire' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Plasmin, a relatively unspecific trypsin‐like serine protease, is involved in many physiological and pathological conditions, particularly in dermatoses with barrier impairment. It is secreted as the inactive zymogen plasminogen and is activated to plasmin by plasminogen activators, such as urokinase. There still exists a paucity of data on the precise localization of epidermal plasmin(ogen) within the epidermis and the stratum corneum. The aim of the present study was to get information about its origin and ultrastructural localization within normal human epidermis. - Method : We performed immunoelectron transmission electron microscopy immunogold labelling in normal abdominal human skin. - Result : Plasmin was only observed in the terminally differentiated cell layers of the epidermis and was largely associated with the corneocyte envelopes and to some extent with the intercellular lipid matrix in the stratum corneum. - Conclusion : Our results indicate that in normal human skin, plasmin(ogen) is synthesized by differentiated epidermal keratinocytes of the stratum granulosum and is not serum‐born. DOI : 10.1111/ics.12585 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ukFITzzi3Z4njnn_jx66zkIS6Fp3BKOp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33672 [article]

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