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Triple strength against cellulite / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 4-10 Titre : Triple strength against cellulite Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 4-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants Biomolécules actives Cellulite Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetic strategies against cellulite generally have the following starting points : fat decomposition, lymphatic drainage and skin firming. The aim of all the strategies, which interact with the lipid metabolism, is to reduce the volume of adipose tissue. This can be achieved by preventing the formation of adipocytes, suppressing lipogenesis or stimulating lipolysis. Activation of the microcirculation encourages drainage of the tissue by means of the lymphatic system and accelerates the removal of fatty acids by the vascular system. The cosmetics market has shown an increased demand for natural and plant-based slimming substances. Using RAHN's knowledge and expertise, some of the candidates that showed the best prospects of success were combined, further developed and tested in terms of their potential This has resulted in the creation of SLIMEXIR®, an innovative and sophisticated cosmetic active ingredient to combat cellulite. Note de contenu : - Active ingredients - In vitro studies - In vivo study - Fig. 1. Subcutaneous adipose tissue. Subcutaneous adipocytes are localised in the hypodermis - Fig. 2. Restructuring of the lipid droplets - Fig. 3. Reduction of fat nodes/cellulite - Fig. 4. Significant improvement of skin firmness - Fig. 5. Visible reduction of cellulite - Fig. 6. Significant increase in skin temperature - Fig. 7. Visible improvement microcirculation and fat burning - Fig. 8. Lipid metabolism in adipocytes - Fig. 9. Triple mode of activity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1krI2gJw5pt86cYa9pQOUs2lyRKAXganY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30413 [article]

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Liposculpture through plant cell factors : Genuine fat burning plant signals for simultaneous targeted slimming and skin repair / Oscar Expósito in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 12-20 Titre : Liposculpture through plant cell factors : Genuine fat burning plant signals for simultaneous targeted slimming and skin repair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Oscar Expósito, Auteur ; M. Pérez, Auteur ; Raul Vallecillo, Auteur ; Maria Mas, Auteur ; Ana Gallego, Auteur ; Tarik Ruiz, Auteur ; Daniel Luna, Auteur ; Sara Laplana, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 12-20 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants Anti-inflammatoires Antioxydants Biomolécules actives Collagène -- Synthèse Dermo-cosmétologie Elastine -- Synthèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An excess and accumulation of fat can have very negative effects on skin and body, accelerating ageing and creating sagging of the skin, among others. The ingredient SARCOSLIM RE-SHAPEprcf (INCI name : Sarcocapnos Crassifolia callus lysate), made from the callus culture of the extremophile and close to extinction South-lberian plant Sarcocapnos crassifolia, introduces the new concept of Liposculpting : a skin remodeling system that helps reduce fat, while taking advantage of the intercellular communication and energy released through the burning of these lipids, to tighten and reaffirm the tissue, making possible for specific parts of the body to be sculpted at will. A full panel of studies support the multi-activity daims of SARCOSLIM RE-SHAPEprcf : in vitro tests demonstrate the ingredient's anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, while ex vivo tests were performed to proof its Lipolytic effect, skin restructuration and metabolic activation in skin explants. Finally, in vivo testing was carried out with volunteers with and without caloric restriction, in order to measure the ability of the ingredient to increase and improve firmness and elasticity in specific parts of the body. The results not only demonstrated the active's high efficacy, remodeling effect and targeted slimming, but also, its synergistic effect with diet : although the ingredient is very efficient in absence of diet, its efficacy is even higher under caloric restriction. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Obesity, overweight and ageing - Adiponectin : the new marker of the skin status - The plant : sarcocapnos crassifolia - Metabolome rich in lipid management related facors - EXPERIMENTAL - EX VIVO TEST : Lipolytic effect in skin explants - Protective effect of the cell membrane : lactate deHydrogenase assay (LDH) - Metabolic activation assay : fluorimetric assay of resazurin activity - Regenerative effect of dermal fibers - Stimulation of the lipolysis - IN VIVO TEST : Evaluation of the FIRMING effect - Evaluation of the SLIMMING effect - FIGURES : 1. Protective effect of the cell membrane : reduction of LDH - 2. Metabolic activation assay - 3. Synthesis of elastin and collagen - 4. Reduction of lipid content on dermis - 5. Reduction of lipid content on hypodermis - 6. Facial and body skin elasticity and firmness improvement - 8. Facial contour remodeling - 9. Slimming effect. Thighs perimeter reduction En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NOwBLQDHj6cnPSGltZplv21v4p2_tDiD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30414 [article]

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Perspiration and odor testing methods and new opportunities for claims development / Sandra Bleckwenn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 22-31 Titre : Perspiration and odor testing methods and new opportunities for claims development Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sandra Bleckwenn, Auteur ; Iryna Kruse, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 22-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Législation Déodorants Microbiome cutané Odeur corporelle Tests d'efficacité Transpiration -- analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Of all the natural functions of the skin, perspiration and its odorous consequences is one of the most lucrative challenges of the cosmetic industry, especially due to its social impact. Body odor and perspiration is deemed offensive in most cultures and cosmetic products to control this phenomenon are in high demand. The reduction of sweat and its resulting odor is normally addressed by antiperspirant formulations containing aluminium salts and standard antimicrobial actives. However concerns over environmental safety, cancer, health and wellbeing are driving innovation in new directions. A wider understanding of the potential positive and negative effects of antiperspirants and deodorants on the skins natural microbiome is becoming more appreciated, alongside a marketing desire for more elaborate claims. This had led to new formulations and different approaches within the confines of legislative requirements for study designs. Here we discuss sweat odor and perspiration, and examine both standard and new developed approaches in clinical testing for claims substantiation within the context of product efficacy, their effect on the skin's microbiome and legislative product claims requirements. Note de contenu : - ODOR & PERSPIRATION TREATMENTS : Clinical intervention - Cosmetic applications - Microbial transplantation - LEGISLATION - ANTIPERSPIRANT EFFICACY STUDIES : FDA method - Screening method - DEODORANT EFFICACY STUDIES - MICROBIOME EVALUATION STUDIES :Study principle - ADRESSING WIDER CLAIMS - FIGURES : 1. FDA procedure for sweat collection during hot room exposure - 2. Screening method for intra-individual comparison of multiple antiperspirant formulations - 3. Comparison of efficacy of aluminium salts in different formulation using the antiperspirant screening method - 4. Sniff test procedure using trained experts according to EN 13725:2003-07 and physical activity on steppers for wider claims En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xUHAQawEOlSKDcQUCFTi3wjtq-auP0OD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30416 [article]

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The influence of cosmetic products on the multicultural skin microbiota / Patrick Gonry in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 32-37 Titre : The influence of cosmetic products on the multicultural skin microbiota Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Patrick Gonry, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 32-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcool Dermo-cosmétologie Inuline Les inulines sont des polysaccharides (sucres simples de type fructose liés entre eux) produits naturellement par de nombreux types de plantes. Elles appartiennent à une classe de fibres alimentaires appelées fructanes. (Wikipedia) Microbiome cutané Prébiotiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The outermost borders of the skin are guarded by an intelligent community of microorganisms. This multi-cultural society relies on an efficient organisation that keeps all the microbial members save under all environmental circumstances. The human skin is directly benefiting from this balance. The skin microbiota is the first line of defence against the harsh environnent. Little to no evidence exists of what can protect this microbial layer, nor what and how cosmetic ingredients influences the species of the skin flora. The influence of cosmetic products, such as alcohol containing lotions, on the skin microbiota has been investigated for the very first time. This kind of research is crucial as a disturbed skin microbiota can lead to skin barrier disruption. The restoring/balancing effect of a certain type of Inulin on the skin microbiota has been clearly demonstrated in ex vivo and in vivo experiments. This specific type of Inulin restores the damaging effect of the antimicrobial ethanol in 4 hours on the cutaneous microbiota. Note de contenu : - The rise and the fall of dictators - The skin microbiota as a rope dancer - The skin microbiota : an assetor a threat ? - The influence of cosmetic ingredients on the skin microbiota - Inulin : the obvious choice - The effect of a prebiotic on a disturbed skin microbiota balance - Table 1 : Relationship beteen skin disorder, change in skin environment and benefiting microorganism - Table 2. : Stabilisation after a disturbance in vivo En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-mzlfOVzjycyCdY0SbSSifqpILKq6PK2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30423 [article]

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SPF assessment revisited - status and outlook / Uli Osterwalder in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 38-44 Titre : SPF assessment revisited - status and outlook Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Uli Osterwalder, Auteur ; Rolf Schütz, Auteur ; Jürgen Vollhardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Evaluation Facteur de protection solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We present the latest alternatives to the in vivo SPF gold standard and discuss their potential and procedures for their validation. The relevance of erythema as SPF endpoint is undisputed, especially as erythema and at least non-melanoma-skin-cancer share a similar action spectrum. Skin and sunscreens interact in a complex fashion, producing an absorption phenomenon far removed from the laboratory cuvette. This continues to represent a significant trueness challenge for any replacement method. We have choices for an alternative method, from in silico and in vitro which require no human testing to a hybrid that involves humans but with negligible irradiation burden. Performing method validation is a key step in the process and requires a solid data foundation to select a suitable method that assures future success. Note de contenu : - The relevance of SPF for skin cancer prevention - SPF test ISO 24444 - the gold standard, in vivo - Alternative SPF methods - Single exposure SPF test, in vivo - Hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy method (H-DRS) in vivo/in vitro - Transmission SPF, in vitro - Calculated SPF, in silico - Oveview of potential of SPF assessment methods - validation procedure for alternative SPF methods - The way forward - FIGURES : 1. "It is better to be roughly right than precisely wrong." - John Maynard Keynes. One should not be misled by high precision The scatter of the "roughly right" case can always be reduced by more data that will make it possible to narrow the distance from the true value - at some extra cost, of course - 2. Very high correlation found between erythema and skin cancer action spectra - 3. SPF gold standard and alternatives. Classification of assessment method according totype - 4. Distribution of individual sun protection factors (SPFi) for SPF-true = 36, standard deviation = 4.4. Blue line : SPF label = 30. Area left of blue line : proportion of erythema in the population (8.6 %) - 5. Experimental setup of H-DRS measurement (in vivo DRS and in vitro ISO 24443) - 6. Principle of in silico method based on UV filter concentration - 7. Overview of methods and their role in supporting/replacing the current ISO 24444 - Table : Status of gold standard ISO 24444 and potential alternatives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zv7FuuwQxo3baBljIlrMNpi3zkzQlLVo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30424 [article]

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How does our skin feel light and taste to protect against the harmful effects of the environment ? / Catherine Gondran in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 46-50 Titre : How does our skin feel light and taste to protect against the harmful effects of the environment ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Catherine Gondran, Auteur ; Corinne Coquet, Auteur ; Isabelle Imbert, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 46-50 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Evaluation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Peau -- analyse photorécepteurs Récepteurs cellulaires Récepteurs du goût Récepteurs sensoriels Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As a complex sensory organ in the first line to sense external signals, our skin contains multiple receptors intended to response to touch perception, as well as thermal variation and pain. Moreover, recent studies highlighted the presence of photoreceptors and tasting receptors in human skin, whose function is still poorly described. The fact that these receptors can functionally respond to external stimuli, in particular to blue light and bitter compounds, allows us to consider a role in skin alert under environmental stresses. The present study aims at investigating the presence of opsin photoreceptors and bitter taste receptors in human skin, and to evaluate their response to stress induced either by exposure to blue light or smoke pollution. Blue light representing High Energy Visible (HEV) light was shown to be associated with the generation of oxidative stress, which is associated with skin photo-damage. Blue light pollution refers to artificial blue light exposure associated with 4 hyper-connected lifestyle. For the purpose of overall protection of the skin, protection from blue light pollution may help minimize its detrimental effects, which are associated with digital aging. In a second approach, receptors for bitter tasting were studied aiming at improving skin response to pollution stress. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Biofunctional extract description - Biological evaluation - RESULTS : Evaluation of oxidative stress and opsin 1-SW level in keratinocytes treated with porcelena cocoa extract upon exposure to blue LEDs - Evaluation of bitter taste receptor (TAS2R38) and autophagic markers in skin biopsies treated with marsdenia condurango extract En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JAT2xnQWX9Leke-YG0Pv7XBVjw8va1Rk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30425 [article]

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Crosslinked hyaluronic acid for topical cosmetic applications / Iva Doleckovà in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 52-57 Titre : Crosslinked hyaluronic acid for topical cosmetic applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Iva Doleckovà, Auteur ; Julie Bystronovà, Auteur ; Markéta Maresova, Auteur ; Vlastimil Hrobar, Auteur ; Petra Sedova, Auteur ; Martin Cepa, Auteur ; Ondrej Zidek, Auteur ; Zuzana Duskova, Auteur ; Martin Pravda, Auteur ; Radovan Buffa, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 52-57 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Hyaluronique, acide L'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia) hydrocolloïdes Réticulation (polymérisation) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Crosslinked hyaluronic acid-based hydrogels (crossHA) have been widely used in the cosmetic industry as injectable dermal fillers. However, HA hydrogels also emerge as interesting raw materials for cosmetic topical products with various other potential benefits. ln this work, we developed and characterized a new type of crossHA (crossHA-3 ; INCI Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3) in a powder form dedicated for the topical cosmetic application and tested its properties in vitro and in vivo on human volunteers. CrossHA-3 powder is fully soluble in water creating a soft hydrogel microparticle suspension macroscopically resembling true solution. Large amount of water absorbed in the porous structure of crossHA-3 effectively moisturizes the skin in vive. CrossHA-3 also creates a protective film on the skin surface and immediately and visibly reduces even deep mimic wrinkles. Because crossHA-3 is less susceptible to enzymatic degradation than HA, it stays longer on the skin surface and so its anti-wrinkle effect is prolonged. Beside water, crossHA-3 can absorb various cosmetic active ingredients in its pores and ensures their continuous, long-term delivery into the skin leading to their more effective utilization by the skin tells as we showed in another in vivo study using niacinamide (vitamin B3) as a model cosmetic active ingredient. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Hyaluronic acid (HA)-based hydrogels - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of the CrossHA-3 powder - SEM images of CrossHA-3 hydrogels - Visualization of CrossHA-3 hydrogel slurry - Release of active ingredients (dialysis ) - Resistance against hyaluronidases - In vivo studies - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Visualization of the crossHA-3 hydrogel material - Release of active ingredients - Resistance to hyaluronidases - In vivo studies with crossHA-3 Scheme : Preparation of the crossHA-3 - Table : Parameters of the in vivo studies En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M9236Bx9m35YAqny5OPW2_AQFpMbIuKU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30427 [article]

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Surfactants with strong anti-corrosion properties / Armin Bach in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 58-62 Titre : Surfactants with strong anti-corrosion properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Armin Bach, Auteur ; Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur ; Stefanie Wehler, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 58-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anticorrosion Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Metals played a key role in the history of mankind ever since. The naming of special periods in history (e.g. the bronze age, the iron age) reflects this high importance. In modern society metals are still very important. A serious challenge with regard to metals is the damage by corrosion, particularly when metals get into contact with strong acids or alkalis which are often used in professional metal cleaning processes. Hence, the protection of metals is strongly recommended. Note de contenu : - Corrosion protection by surfactants - Solubility of ZUSOTEC CP types - ZUSOTEC CP types : anti-corrosion properties - Aesthetic aspects - Zinc as protective coating : A) Test method : Hydrogen formation as indicator for corrosion - B) Test method : Mass low - Additional properties of ZUSOTEC CP types - FIGURES : 1. Prevention of corrosion processes by adsorbed surfactants - 2. Chemical structure of ZUSOTEC CP types - 3. Foaming power of ZUSOTEC CP 100 and ZUSOTEC CP 160 - 4. Surface defects after 1 min exposure to acidic cleaner - 5. Zinc plates without and with corrosion protection by ZUSOTEC CP types - 6. Bubble counter (smplified) to test corrosion protection - 7. Effectiveness of ZUSOTEC CP types as anti-corrosion additives for zinc - 8. Effectiveness of ZUSOTEC CP 100 as anti-corrosion additive for zinc, blank : water + acid En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xdzUDNXSEaDqQkQ2mHUC6jNQSmKg4nKd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30428 [article]

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