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Zemea propanediol in a broad spectrum, water resistant, SPF 25+ daily facial moisturizer / David Shaw in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Zemea propanediol in a broad spectrum, water resistant, SPF 25+ daily facial moisturizer Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : David Shaw, Auteur ; M. Chandler, Auteur ; J. Merzia, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Facteur de protection solaire Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers are increasingly aware that there is a further need for broad spectrum sun protection, and particular protec¬tion during times of heavy sun exposure. Every day, broad spectrum UV protection is necessary to keep the skin looking youthful and healthy. The category is growing, but there con¬tinue to be concerns regarding the effectiveness, safety, and aesthetics of the sunscreen actives. The United States (US) has far fewer approved sunscreen ac¬tives than the rest of the world. Of those available in the US, some are not used due to lack of effectiveness and perceived toxicity. While the industry continues to wait for the FDA approval of actives used in Europe and elsewhere, an evaluation of underutilized Category 1 actives is important. Two actives that should be considered are the organic, water-soluble ma¬terials, ensulizole and sulisobenzone. Neither of these actives will work on their own, but both can be part of building innovative sun protection packages that please formulators and consumers. Adaptive Cosmetic Technology Solutions Corp. (ACT Solutions Corp.), assisted in the development of a new broad spectrum, water resistant, SPF 25+ daily facial moisturizer. Specific ingredient selection and innovative formulation techniques were completed to produce this new formulation. Note de contenu : - Zemea propanediol - Phase formulation - Water resistance - TABLES : 1. W/O broad spectrum, water resistant, SPF 25+ daily facial moisturizer - 2. Evaluation of sunscreen protection - 3. Evaluation of sun protection by SPF determination (FDA) - 40 minute water immersion - 4 Evaluation of sun protection by SPF determination (FDA) - 80 minute water immersion En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J4AkvcqHjDAnwyxzDHu5RXDQgXuocaf_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28958 [article]

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Current formulation aspects for sunscreens / Christiane Hanay in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 8-16 Titre : Current formulation aspects for sunscreens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christiane Hanay, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 8-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The development of efficient sun protection products with a high degree of light protection, which meets the requirements of today's regulatory, market and customer requirements in a technical and sensory manner, places the developer at high challenges due to growing restrictions. Current relevant aspects for the development of modern sunscreens, relevant influencing criteria, correlations and the professional approach for a successful product are presented. Starting from benchmarking, major attention is paid ta the important relationship between selected UVA/UVB filter platform and the galenic of the formulation for optimizing protection performance, rheology, film formation and sensory aspects, as demonstrated by practical examples. Note de contenu : - FIGURES : 1. Product development inexperienced versus professional - 2. Additional claims for sun protection products - Undesired side reactions in the formulation of sunscreen agents - 4. BMDBM complex formation with free metal ions - 5. Polarization microscopy of the crystalline forms of crystalline UV filters - 6. Possible strategies of microbiological stabilization - 7. Influence of the overall formulation - 8. Selection of limiting patients (as of 2016) - 9. Efficiency of a sun milk (O/W) with increasing SPF - 10. Limits when changing to a differentiated emusifier-free galenic system - 11. Adaptation of UV filter platform and galenic - efficiency with increasing SPF - 12. Improvement of protection performance and efficiency by considering the interaction of UV filter platform and overall formulation - TABLE : Competition analysis - Comparison of the recipe strategy of different manufacturers En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XMPAngASkQ0cTvmLxcjGikxD8zN1Ghpy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28959 [article]

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Pickering emulsions : a sustainable strategy to boost the water resistance performance of sunscreens / J. Marto in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 18-22 Titre : Pickering emulsions : a sustainable strategy to boost the water resistance performance of sunscreens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Marto, Auteur ; L. F. Gouveia, Auteur ; A. Paiva, Auteur ; B. Chiari-Andréo, Auteur ; V. Isaac, Auteur ; P. Simões, Auteur ; P. Pinto, Auteur ; A. J. Almeida, Auteur ; H. M. Ribeiro, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 18-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adhésion Café et constituants Cosmétiques Emulsions pickering Formulation (Génie chimique) Huiles et graisses végétales Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Water resistance is a key parameter for today's sunscreens, and there are a number of formulation strategies that can be used to achieve this effect, including : anhydrous formulation, w/o emulsions, and low levels of emulsifiers. This research work aimed to develop an innovative sunscreen formulation based on Pickering emulsions concept, surfactant-free emulsions stabilized by physical UV filters associated natural oils. The spent coffee oil was used to prepare a w/o sunscreen involving a cold emulsification process, with TiO2, and ZnO as stabilizers and UV filters. The Pickering emulsion was characterized in terms of in vitro and in vivo biological properties of the final formulation, including safety (HRIPT) and sunscreen water resistance tests, using a non-invasive alternative in vivo method. Spent coffee oil presented promising characteristics in the improvement of water performance with a broad spectrum sun protection. The Pickering emulsion was sale for skin application. Concerning the in vivo water resistance study, Pickering emulsion revealed 80.0±3.6% of whiteness, thus supporting the "water resistant" daim and demonstrating that Pickering emulsions are effective at improving water resistance. A novel sunscreen formulation with a high tolerability was developed based on the Pickering emulsions concept. All results revealed an excellent compromise between UV protection, efficacy, safety and cosmeticity. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Methods - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterization of the sunscreen formulations - Skin adhesion properties - HRIPT - In vivo sun product water resistance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UGAjSZ0LOE-FgdQbzCAmQ5Q8yz2QAKa2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28960 [article]

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Renewable green emollient to solubilize filters in sunscreen / Maria Goretti D. Pedreca in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 24-26 Titre : Renewable green emollient to solubilize filters in sunscreen Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maria Goretti D. Pedreca, Auteur ; Juliana Pierobon, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 24-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomatériaux Emollients Facteur de protection solaire Formulation (Génie chimique) Matières premières Produits antisolaires Solubilisation Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreen formulations have many factors that affect the performance of the final product. The emollients are very im¬portant for the effectiveness of the SPF, helping to solubilize the filters and delivering important attributes as spreadability for the formulation. This article talks about the choice of emollients to solubilize filters in sunscreen formulations. Some UV filters were tested to evaluate the solubility in an ingredient developed by Oxiteno compared to C12C15Alkyl Benzoate, It can be seen that the performance for the solubility of the filters was the same for the emollients tested. For the formulations developed, efficacy tests were conducted to evaluate the SPF of the ingredient developed by Oxiteno compared to Alkyl Benzoate. The results were satisfactory for the emollients tested, being that the option developed by Oxiteno is a green alternative. Note de contenu : - Solubilization of filters - Efficacy test (SPF) - Raw materials - Formulations - FIGURES : 1. Value chain involved in natural emollient production - 2. Methodologies adopted in this study - 3. Graph with mean SPF results of the tested formulas. Expected SPF : 30 with 1/3 UVA - TABLES : 1. Details of the ingredients evaluated in this study - 2. Tested sunscreen formulations expected SPF : 30 - with 1/3 UVA - 3. UV filter solubilization En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fS79_hlR_k2-T_k2mnHMU4sUMmLqReOd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28961 [article]

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Maximizing the benefits and minimizing the dangers of sun exposure / Robyn M. Lucas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 28-35 Titre : Maximizing the benefits and minimizing the dangers of sun exposure Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Robyn M. Lucas, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 28-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Humans have evoived under varying levels of ambient solar radiation. These exposures have modulatecf our skin type and our physiology ; we have become adapted to a specific environment in which we evolved. But humans have spread across the globe and many experience solar radiation that is far removed from that for which they are evolutionarily adapted. There are risks and benefits to sun exposure — the challenge is to understand bath and to maximise the benefits while minimising the hazards. In the face of rising skin cancer incidence during the latter part of the 20'" century, and concerns about increasing levels of ultraviolet radiation at Earth's surface as a result of stratospheric ozone depletion research, focused on understanding the burden and mechanisms of the health risks of sun exposure, particularly the skin cancers. In the first decades of the 21th century, there has also been an explosion of research about vitamin D, a well-known benefit of sun exposure. Interest is now expanding to consider other potential benefits of sun exposure. Understanding the doses required, and the size of any beneficial affect, are essentiel in framing sun protection messages that can maximise the benefits while minimising the risks of sun exposure. Note de contenu : - A potted history of sun exposure over evolution - A focus on ultraviolet radiation - Dangers of sun exposure of the skin - Benefits of sun exposure of the skin - It's not only UV radiation - Changing patterns of sun exposure over time - What about sun protection ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qOviZzlUPeSPk9BbWqpTDhwnY9vcrg1R/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28967 [article]

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The role of the TRPV1 receptor in thermal ageing / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 36-40 Titre : The role of the TRPV1 receptor in thermal ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Stefan Hettwer, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 36-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Rayonnement infrarouge -- Effets physiologiques Récepteurs cellulaires Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The TRPV1 receptor is a key sensor for thermal and chemical stresses in the skin. Continuous stimulation of this receptor leads to sensitive skin and premature skin ageing. Albatrellus ovinus extract contains grifolin derivatives which block the receptor. Binding experiments revealed IC5,, values in the iow micromolecular range and blocking of neuronal CGRP release was determined by ELISA. In vivo studies with a TSAII neurosensory analyser and IR-A irradiation demonstrated a benefit for the skin by using a cosmetic formulation containing Albatrellus ovinus extract in heat stress situations. Albatrellus ovinus extract is suitable to sooth sensitive skin and protects against thermal and chemical stressons. The contribution of blocking the TRPV1 receptor to prevent thermal ageing is discussed. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : IC50 measurements - CGRP-release - In vivo studies - RESULTS : Grifolin, neogrifolin and scutigeral show excellent affinity to TRPV1 - Grifolin counteracts neuron driven inflammation - Albatrellus ovinus extract protects from heat stress and southes hyperalgesic skin - Albatrellus ovinus extract ameliorates IR-induced barrier damage and skin reddening En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12KA5zvZmahZ3UDSaGO-9Q-U8DJFV8MQ4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28968 [article]

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Efficient hair protection - the multi-functional silk polypeptide as new and promising strategy against pollution / Natalie Blost in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 42-45 Titre : Efficient hair protection - the multi-functional silk polypeptide as new and promising strategy against pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Stacht, Auteur ; Roman Ott, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 42-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux -- Teinture Cosmétiques Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Healthy hair is associated with strength, smooth texture and shine. Air pollution, sunlight, sea and chlorine water can, however, damage hair substantially. The affected hair often looks dull and feels dry. Colored hair requires even more attention and suitable care. Exposed to sea water and/or chlorine water it can be rendered less vibrant in hue, sometimes even showing visible color changes. To shield the hair from such unwanted environmental impacts, an effective protection strategy is essential. The functional, vegan silk polypeptide is an ideal candidate for respective hair protection strategies. The novel silk polypeptide acts as film former protecting hair from harmful environmental impacts. The functional, vegan silk polypeptide can find application in various hair product formulations. Note de contenu : - HAIR CARE TRENDS AND COLOR PROTECTION - ANTI-POLLUTION - METHODS AND RESULTS : Functional silk treatment does not influence the result of the coloration process - The functional vegan silk polypeptide protects colored hair against sea and chlorine water - Silkgel as a protective agent against pollution En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n6Pmg7H4paac10otjyKp-2zhjHxDOXHp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28969 [article]

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Future regulatory changes affecting cosmetic ingredients / Helena Eixarch in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 46-49 Titre : Future regulatory changes affecting cosmetic ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Helena Eixarch, Auteur ; David Andrew, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 46-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne Ingrédients cosmétiques Règlements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Cosmetics Regulation ((EC) No 1223/2009) is continuously being adapted to technical progress and to reflect new safety data on cosmetic products ingredients. Additionally, other Regulations may affect any ingredients used in cosmetic products. This article reviews those ingredients which might become regulated in the next few months, and discusses the rationale behind this. Note de contenu : - Recent cosmetics regulation amendments - Cosmetics regulation amendments to come - Other regulations' amendments - Looking in the crystal ball : longer term changes - Ingredients to be kept on the radar En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cIPmmGAxySfglXCZPRO7u0ujLq7EUZfP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28970 [article]

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Innovations around laundry and cleaning / Fred Schambil in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 50-54 Titre : Innovations around laundry and cleaning : Conference of SEPAWA specialist group "innovative cleaning" Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fred Schambil, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 50-54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Innovations Nettoyage Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : On 11th May 2017, Dr Ralf Döring led a meeting of the newly established SEPAWA specialist group "Innovative Cleaning" in the "deconsecrated church" on the grounds of wfk — Cleaning Technology Institute e.V. in Krefeld. Ten lectures explored new raw materials, intelligent tests and innovative washing machines. The scientific and technical part was supplemented by presentations on universities as innovation engines, as well as on a new tool to predict the success of product innovations. Note de contenu : - Innovative laundry raw materials - Innovations in appliances, consumer tests and at a university - FIGURES : ZNADOR TM 22L proposed mode of action - Learning from nature - biosurfactants on an industrial scale - Powerwash versus previous laundry process - What's being said En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XqQ5STICaLcNfBEBvue157QQ2qTs1TJ5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28971 [article]

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