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The challenge of sustainable natural waxes / Martina Heldermann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 2-4 Titre : The challenge of sustainable natural waxes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Heldermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 2-4 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Développement durable Ingrédients cosmétiques Ressources renouvelables Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Commonly used waxes such as beeswax or leaf, fruit peel, seed, bran, hull, and flower waxes are all from renewable sources. Consumers usually assume that natural things are also biodegradable and sustainable, but with the use of palm oil now a hot topic, other raw materials derived from plant and animal sources are subject to increasing scrutiny. To ensure the sustainability of cosmetic formulations, the entire supply chain needs to be reviewed with a focus on sourcing. This article examines the harvesting and processing of several widely used, and some more specialized, natural waxes, and evaluates their sustainability. Note de contenu : - Carnauba wax - Sunflower seed oil - Rice brand oil - Myrica fruit wax En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PTWm0_nXk-0g1survAbxB6keuirLwZP7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26659 [article]

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D'Cosmix TM range of cosmeceutical blends / Muhammed Majeed in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 6-12 Titre : D'Cosmix TM range of cosmeceutical blends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Muhammed Majeed, Auteur ; Priti Vaidyanathan, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 6-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Taking skin care formulations to the next level, Sabinsa launches a unique concept of blends, D'Cosmix, with innovative, patended ingredients and a focused approach in dealing with a variety of skin conditions. These blends are petroleum free with no added preservatives. Under the brand umbrella of D'Cosmix, we will be discussing our latest offerings, MelaLite DC, and DerMoist DCx,. MelaLite DCx is a skin brightening and lightening blend fropm the D'Cosmix range that has been evaluated for its in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory property. A human study using MetalLite DCx 1% cream has reported a significant improvement in skin complexion and reduction of dark spots. DerMoist DCx is a moisturising blend composed of effective nutrients to keep the skin moisturised, nourished and healthy. A human study using DerMoist DCx 3% cream showed significant improvement in skin hydration. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1om3REFB2SkuGFNL2Qr42kIDUN2kwPsqe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26660 [article]

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Hydrated silica particles : environmentally friendly and economical abrasives for peeling formulations / J. Münzenberg in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 14-19 Titre : Hydrated silica particles : environmentally friendly and economical abrasives for peeling formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Münzenberg, Auteur ; H. Riedemann, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Abrasion Billes de plastiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Cosmétiques Exfoliants Particules (matières) Silice hydratée Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Exfoliating body and face cleanser formulations often rely on polyethylene beads to help rejuvenate the skin by removing dead cells. The growing discussion about plastic contamination of the environment, and specifically of marine ecosystems, has raised concern about the use of such microscopic polyethylene particles in a variety of applications. Of the many alternatives that are currently under discussion, hydrated silica stands out as a very economical solution that overcomes the pressing environmental objections to plastic spheres. Because of its hydrophilic nature, hydrated silica easily mixes into aqueous formulations. Experimental evidence is provided that hydrated silica particles are easily removed in waste water treatment plants. The particles are stable in water as well as aqueous anionic surfactant solution, as proven by laser diffraction particle size analysis. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_xfJpbR49hzghsNeTjb8cYIH4i9AAy_m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26661 [article]

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The ideal cosmetic ally for the cold / Julia Comas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 20-23 Titre : The ideal cosmetic ally for the cold Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Cristina Davi, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Nùria Almiñana, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 20-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biotechnologie marine Ingrédients cosmétiques Microorganismes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With temperatures reaching below - 40°C, and barely any solar light for six months of the year, the Antarctic is one of the regions with the hardest conditions for organisms to live in. Surprisingly, however, the Antarctic has a very diverse microbial ecosystem that is able to resist such extreme cold conditions. These microorganisms have been particularly studied for their ability to produce compounds with beneficial properties for the human skin, which can offer interesting additional value to cosmetic formulations. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Effects of the cold on the skin - Adapting to Antarctic conditions - EXPERIMENTAL : Cryoprotective activity - Restructuring effect - Collagen and elastin synthesis induction - Clinical skin roughness evaluation - Efficacy against wrinkles and cold weather (Hydration - Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) - Elasticity and firmness - Erythema index - Skin profilometry) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cr0afDl8sUoExUD5W3bGdCO2TDvJJIce/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26662 [article]

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IMPAG Cosmetic Seminar 2015 / Klaus Henning in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 24-31 Titre : IMPAG Cosmetic Seminar 2015 : 2nd July 2015, Hotel Schloss Montabaur Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Klaus Henning, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 24-31 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Biopolymères Congrès et conférences Cosmétiques -- Législation Epaississants Hygiène Ingrédients cosmétiques Odeurs Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Produits hydratants Savon Soja et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A multitude of highly efficient natural active ingredients is now available for all kinds of dermocosmetic applications. There are raw materials for stimulating collagen and elastin formation to nuriture and regenerate the skin after injury and overstretching. Aggressive environmental stresses cause damage to skin tells and premature ageing. Innovative test systems can help identify substances that repair damage caused by pollutants and protect the skin against environmental damage. Ecocert-compliant soy polymers are produced from soybean proteins in a sustainable, GMO-free production process that gives them a special peptide architecture to make them highly functional. They stand out for excellent dispersion, spread and film-forming performance. These properties all work to increase the sun protection factor of sunscreen products. Consumers expect a cooling action from refreshing shower gels and body lotions. The active ingredient Menthyl PCA consists of L-menthol and L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. As the ester splits on the skin, the cooling L-menthol and moisturising PCA are slowly released. If the objective is to reduce unpleasant odours, a derivative of citronella ail is ideal. While the citronella oil masks odours, the added dimethylacrylic acid methyl ester actively oxidises or reduces certain odorous substances. Oily gels are as much a trend as ever in cosmetics. Natural-cosmetic-compliant thickeners containing sucrose laurate or sucrose myristate, among other things, can be used to produce highly viscous, self-emulsifying oily gels that contribute positively towards skin hydration. Advertising daims of "pixel by pixel" perfect skin, prompted by new high-definition TVs and digital photography, have found their way onto cosmetic packaging. Consumers can perform their own skin analyses quickly and easily by taking "selfies" and using special apps. Pigments and active ingredients with immediate wrinkle-filling effects offer the promise of perfect skin. Note de contenu : - Skin regeneration for stretchmarks and scars - Film-forming soy polymers with emulsifying, stabilising and rheology-modifying properties - Cooling effect and odour control - Innovative clinical testing of protective action against skin ageing and harmful substances - Technical advancements in media and science are influencing cosmetic development - Innovations in thickeners - Cosmetic legislation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11iUUsPB-GORz0wH1mVC4Cd1qXMoQ4EHj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26663 [article]

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Green surfactants in hard surface applications : are excellent performance and low ecological impact a contradiction ? in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 32-36 Titre : Green surfactants in hard surface applications : are excellent performance and low ecological impact a contradiction ? Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 32-36 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents mouillants Biosurfactants Chimie des surfaces Détergents Ecotoxicologie Evaluation Mouillage (chimie des surfaces) Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Environmental awareness among European consumers is steadily growing and plays an increasing role in their purchasing decisions. Nevertheless, the most important criteria are still performance and case of use. Even "green" products have to achieve at least average market quality to obtain customer acceptance. The range of commercially available high-performance and environmentally friendly surfactants is however rather limited. The invention of fatty acid N-methylglucamides sets here a milestone for a new generation of environmental friendly sugar surfactants. They set themselves apart from other typically used surfactants, e.g. fatty alcohol ethoxylates, through an extraordinarily positive ecotoxicological profile, whilst maintaining or even improving upon performance. Short-chain GlucoPure Wet for example, has a very strong wetting power, which expresses itself in outstanding soap scum removal when used in the sanitary sector. This combination of high-performance and environmentally friendliness makes this sugar surfactant therefore an ideal candidate to formulate a green bathroom cleaner without compromising on performance and convenience, thus preventing disappointments on the customer's side. Note de contenu : - Glucamides : a short introduction - Ecotoxicological profile - The importance of mildness in bathroom cleaners - Performance criteria for bathroom cleaners - Evaluation of the surface interaction En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IYHtFbRf60Lg_ShS4L4XMNpclBzAUAA5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26664 [article]

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Apricot kernel oil from Kyrgyzstan / Angie Martinez in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 38-44 Titre : Apricot kernel oil from Kyrgyzstan : The IPD provides importers with new contacts to alternative buying markets Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Angie Martinez, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Abricot et constituants Développement durable Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Ressources agricoles Ressources renouvelables Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : "Apricot Kernel oil makes the skin glow", claims alternative practitioner Ruth von Braunschweig in her widely-acclaimed book on the effect of plant oils. Like the German aromatherapist, many cosmetics producers and consumers today appreciate the unique character and health-promoting properties of this oil. So it is not surprising that there is a growing carrier oil for particularly skin-friendly creams, lotions and shampoos. In natural cosmetics and aromatherapy in particular there are also a multitude of applications for native apricot kernel. German importers obtain apricot kernel oil mainly from Turkey. Yet new alternative markets that offer quality apricot kernel oil are currently springing up in some developing countries. One of these countries is Kyrgyzstan, one of the partner countries of the Import Promotion Desk (IPD), the import promotion service provider in Germany. The IPD helps Kyrgyz traders introduce their products on the German market. It does so for two reasons firstly, to support sustainable change in organic agriculture in Kyrgyzstan, and secondly, to offer German importers the opportunity to optimise their purchasing procedure and expand their range of organically produced quality commodities through new business cooperations. Note de contenu : - An ancient cultivated plant - Production of apricot kernel oil - Ingredients of apricot kernel oil : fatty acid composition - vitamin content - Cosmetic applications of apricot kernel oil : in skin care - in hair care - in aromatherapy - as a basic oil - Documented quality - Medical applications - Quality criteria for apricot kernel oil - Nature's garden : kyrgyzstan - Alliances for sustainable change - IJPD activities - Capacity building - Market intelligence - Matchmaking En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gEspVh3ai4wp33YZ4vSoIm-vKvq-P3FT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26665 [article]

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Microbiological safety assessment of cosmetic products in practice / Ulrich Eigener in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 46-49 Titre : Microbiological safety assessment of cosmetic products in practice : Part I. Basic elements of the assessment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrich Eigener, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 46-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Evaluation Sécurité des produits de consommation Tests microbiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetic products made available on the market must not present a health risk to the user. To ensure adequate product safety, attention must be paid to relevant safety considerations as already during development, as well as in manufacturing and release decisions. EU legislators set specific legal requirements for these processes, the most important of which is Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. This contains the requirement for the safety assessment by which the aforementioned requirements are checked. The safety assessment also includes aspects of microbiological product safety. Even though the requirements for microbiological quality are presented somewhat generally (Annex I, Part A, 3 of the regulation), further relevant details to ensure the fulfilment and maintenance of these requirements can be derived from other basic requirements of the regulation (e.g. Art. 5, 8, 10, 11 and requirements for the safety report [Annex I, Parts A and B]) and the quality agreement that is now standard practice. Also of importance for the microbiological requirements are the SCCS Notes of Guidance (SCCS, 2012), which provide technical details on limit values, challenge tests and aspects of good manufacturing practice (GMP) that are relevant for microbiology. A prerequisite for the safety assessment is the detection, estimation and evaluation of risks, in the first instance from microbial product contamination, and subsequently from any resulting damage. The risk estimation and evaluation must therefore first address a presumptive contamination and prospective countermeasures. In addition, a risk assessment is particularly necessary if, despite countermeasures in development and production, microbial contamination of the product is detected. Depending upon the risk assessment of possible damage, follow-up actions in the form of corrections and corrective actions have to be taken. This latter case is handled in Part II. Note de contenu : 1. Basic assumptions regarding the occurence of microbial risks 2. Countermeasures to avoid risks 3. Damage of microbial origin : initial situation and current data problems 4. Systematic view of hazard risk - Severity and probability of damage : Estimation of the severity of damage - Estimation of the probability of damage 5. Safeguarding the process En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CFL_xmV4VsUJ0golRpZGBbV_By_8Ldks/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26666 [article]

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Current trends in washing, cleaning and cosmetics / Fred Schambil in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 50-52 Titre : Current trends in washing, cleaning and cosmetics : Annual general meeting of SEPAWA regional group west 2015 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fred Schambil, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 50-52 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Détergents Énergie -- Consommation Huiles minérales Ingrédients cosmétiques Machines à laver Nettoyage Produits chimiques Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : On 4th December 2015, the DWI Leibnitz Institute for Interactive Materials in Aachen hosted the annual general meeting of the SEPAWA Regional Group West, chaired by Kai Mann (Brenntag GmbH). In addition to topics relating to hygiene and cleaning processes, the phenomenon of wetting and the analysis of critical substances in cosmetics were discussed. Prof. Martin Möller, Director of the DWI, introduced the institute, which has a cooperation agreement with the RWTH Aachen University. Participants were able to learn about the latest developments in the DWI during a guided tour. Note de contenu : - DWI Leibnitz Institute for interactive materials - Mineral oils in cosmetics - Washing and cleaning - Free-kick spray En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mS5TE7Gs7VEKmk9B5BevPUUp6z3jWaJN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26667 [article]

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Conditioner, eco-friendly, UW 1135/1 in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 54 Titre : Conditioner, eco-friendly, UW 1135/1 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 54 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits après-shampooings Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulation d'un produit cosmétique : Après shampooing écologique En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UhJV6xq3etSK-f0_3FMIqnTYbNbsIGeA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41026 [article]

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Conditioner, cost efficient, UW 900/2 in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016) . - p. 54 Titre : Conditioner, cost efficient, UW 900/2 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 54 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulation d'un produit cosmétique : Conditionneur. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y-P6KVZjGMHJXTgiWMQA3F_kH0I3ZBog/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41027 [article]

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