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European regulations : some topics to keep an eye on / Chris Smith in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 15-16 Titre : European regulations : some topics to keep an eye on Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 15-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Butylphényl Méthylpropional Dioxyde de titane Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne Méthylisothiazolinone Nanoparticules Produits chimiques -- Toxicologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As always there are plenty of European regulatory activities relating to cosmetic ingredients that are impacting the industry and should be monitored closely. A public consultation was announced by the European Commission to discuss its proposed modifications of Annex V of the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 regarding the use of methylisothiazolinone in cosmetic products, with decisions expected in the final months of 2015. An announcement was made regarding amendments to Annex III of the Cosmetic Regulation, resulting in the addition of several hair dye ingredients and one eyelash ingredient onto the list of restricted substances. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has published an opinion that butylphenyl methylpropional (BMHCA) is not safe for use as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetic leave-on or rinse-off products at concentration limits set-up by IFRA in 2013 and its revisions submitted in 2015. In summer 2015 the European Commission requested an opinion from the SCCS on the use of nano titanium dioxide in sunscreens and sprays. The following is a summary of some of the most recent issues being discussed and decisions made by the European Commission. Note de contenu : - METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE PUBLIC CONSULTATION : Bannig MI in leave-on products - Waiting for the final SCCS opinion on rinse-off and hair leave-on products, before reducing the concentration from 100 ppm to 15 ppm - Brief history of methylisothiazolinone use - ANNEXE III AMENDMENTS : NEW RESTRICTIONS ON HAIR DYE AND EYELASH INGREDIENTS : hair dye additions to annex III - Stricter hair dye labelling requirements - EYELASH INGREDIENT RESTRICTION - BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL SAFETY OPINION FROM THE SCCS : Brief history of butylphenyl methylpropional use -SCCS OPINION REQUESTED ON NANO TITANIUM DIOXIDE SUNSCREENS AND SPRAYS En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/116qPHYheLcGNcJf7KDgeYlIJDH-UvP3r/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24887 [article]

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Ingredients focus : alternative preservation systems / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 20-21 Titre : Ingredients focus : alternative preservation systems Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 20-21 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) -- Suppression ou remplacement Cosmétiques -- Additifs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Preservatives are essential components for any personal care formulation that contains water. However, the palette of useable preservatives has steadily declined in recent years necessitating the use of new systems to accommodate the consumer preferences. No matter what system is used the priority will always be the same; to create safe and effective personal care products. Following is a selection of ingredients that either boost traditional preservatives (requiring a lower use level), or offer a complete alternative to traditional products. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z7NBDxEwSi6CqzTLUDPIJ9bC1q-cQfu6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24892 [article]

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Anti-inflammatory effects of sunscreens : is it science ? / John Staton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 23-26 Titre : Anti-inflammatory effects of sunscreens : is it science ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : John Staton, Auteur ; Holly Feng, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 23-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Facteur de protection solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There was no significant difference between erythemal responses when measured according to ISO 24444 Procedure. Similarly, there was no significant difference between erythemal responses measured instrumentally. Moderation of erythemal response by the SPF 100 sunscreen containing high level (39%) of actives was not observed. Evidence of anti-inflammatory activity of sunscreen actives was nto apparent when a commercial very high SPF product was tested under standard internationally-accepted test conditions intended to reflect normal use. When a mainstream therapeutic anti-inflammatory active was incorporated into a standard SPF 15 sunscreen, there was an a value change of 0.48 at 1x MED exposure, increasing to 1.1 at 2x MEDs. The impact of this effect on SPF 16 protected skin was at best incremental, and extrapolation from the percentage decrease in erythema could only, at best, be additive. The changes could not be observed visually when assessed according to the ISO 24444 SPF protocol, but could only be shown with instrumental measurement with a colour computing spectrophotometer. Significant difference could not be confirmed for any of the test series for treated vs. untreated challenges. Note de contenu : - Determination of anti-inflammatory effect of commercial SPF 100 product - Confirmation of potential activity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Vg8FVlreJ-FpHDEvmL31kuw3_3FJwLm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24893 [article]

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Particle characterisation methods for nanomaterials / Paul Staniland in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 29-34 Titre : Particle characterisation methods for nanomaterials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paul Staniland, Auteur ; Ian Tooley, Auteur ; Robert Sayer, Auteur ; Hannah Craney, Auteur ; Elizabeth Ryder, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 29-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Dioxyde de titane Nanoparticules Oxyde de zinc Photocatalyse Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The physical properties of inorganic materials such as titanium dioxide (TiOâ‚‚) and zinc oxide (ZnO) have been utilised in a wide variety of applications for many years. The wide ranging properties of smaller particles of TiOâ‚‚ and ZnO make them ideal for use in sun care products; optimum UV attenuation, coupled with visible transparency results in excellent protection and aesthetic performance. Recently, despite many scientific studies demonstrating the safety of these ingredients, concerns have been raised that some of the unique properties of these particles may result in adverse effects in cosmetic applications. The Scientific Commitee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) recently published Opinions on TiOâ‚‚ and ZnO in their nano form, which detailed specifications that they believed these materials should meet to be classed as 'safe to use' up to certain concentrations. Given the importance of the subject area to both cosmetic manufacturers and consumers, it is essential to have an understanding of the methods which are used to examine the physical properties of such nanomaterials. Many factors affect trhe analysis sample process, from pre-analysis sample preparation to post-analysis data interpretation. This article looks at some of the techniques commonly used tomeasured properties such as particle size,UV protection and photocatalitic activity. Signinificant variations in data can occur if methods are not standardised. The article will also investigate factors such as sample preparation and energy input which can affect results, and highlight the need for correlation of methods with the state of particles in sun care formulations. Note de contenu : - Measuring UV-Vis protection - Particle size and related properties - Sample preparation - solvent choice - Energy input - Measuring photocatalytic activity - TABLES : 1. The physical parameters analysed in SCS opinion SCCS/1516/13 - 2. Comparison of data from the dilution of TiO2 powder and dispersion in various solvents - 3. Data to compare sample processing methods En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ChzYVCWwHPnfqjG0whmI3TNJ3cGqwjBs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24914 [article]

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Bicosomes with β-carotene as free radical scavengers / Estibalitz Fernández in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 37-39 Titre : Bicosomes with β-carotene as free radical scavengers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Estibalitz Fernández, Auteur ; Lluís Fajarí, Auteur ; Alfonso De la Maza, Auteur ; Olga López, Auteur ; Gelen Rodríguez, Auteur ; Mercedes Cócera, Auteur ; Lucyanna Barbosa-Barros, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Carotène Ingrédients cosmétiques Lipides Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Beta-carotene antioxidant has been incorporated in a new lipid system, bicosomes, and its effectiveness against free radical formation in skin was determined using 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-N-oxide (DMPO) spin trap and electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy (EPR). Dynamic light scattering (DLS) showed that the diameter of these structures is about 250 nm and cryo-transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM) imaged that bicosomes are formed by lipid vesicles including discoidal structures. EPR revealed that bicosomes containing β-carotene presented a high free radical scavenging activity in the skin exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV). Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Preparation and characterisation of the lipid systems - Dynamic light scattering (DLS) - Cryo-transmission electron microscopy (Cryo-TEM) - Preparation of skin samples - EPR measurements - RESULTS : Characterisaton of lipid system - EPR and UV radiation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Co5w6BphKnVrY_6ghHTgJyoKoE85To6U/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24915 [article]

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Melanosome transportation control via innovative active / Kiyotaka Tanaka in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 41-44 Titre : Melanosome transportation control via innovative active Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kiyotaka Tanaka, Auteur ; Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 41-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Biomolécules actives Kinésine Mélanosome Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Various biological parts and structures are formed within cells and transported to parts of the body by driving proteins called motor proteins. For example, melanin pigment that influences skin tone is produced in melanocytes and passed to keratinocytes through dendrites. Keratinocytes absorb melanin from surrrounding areas (or tips of dendrites including melanin) and darken. Usually, melanin generated in melanocytes is transported to the end of dendrites. In this process, melanosomes are transported by kinesin, a type of motor protein. Melanin is transported along dendrites while it is synthesised in sacks called melanosomes. Kinesin is involved in the transport of melanosomes to the end of dendrites (Fig. 1). Kinesin is a protein with limb-like strutures. Kinesin holds up melanosome using hand-like strutures (light chains) and walks on microtubules using leg-like structures (heavy chains). Kinesins travel in a specific direction, always toward the end of dendrites, namely keratinocytes. They move leg-like structures alternately as though they are walking; Since they look like micro robots, they are also know as 'biological nanomachines'. Note de contenu : - Kinesin as a new target of skin lightening - Development of a plant based kinesin inhibitor - Inhibition of melanin transportation - Skin lightening effect on 3D skin model - Clinical study on human skin - Identifying active molecule - Relationship between skin lightening and 'Cinderella time' - New skin lightening theory En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PfSLWr4J3wXvuzO_h1qWuqxOgrx7Ohl4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24936 [article]

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Tripeptide offers anti-ageing and multi-ethnic relevance / Mathias Gempeler in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 47-49 Titre : Tripeptide offers anti-ageing and multi-ethnic relevance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mathias Gempeler, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 47-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Collagène -- Synthèse Cosmétiques Groupe ethnique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Syn-Coll, the synthetic tripeptide from DSM, simultaneously boosts collagen production and protects against collagen degradation -two major factors in maintaining the strutural integrity of skin. By acting on the TGF-β pathway, Syn-Coll mimics the body's own mechanism to result in visibly younger-looking skin. But DSM's recent in vivo study in China shows that Syn-Coll is not only a global solution but also has a multi-ethnic appeal and can be tailored to suit different regional needs, including those of the Asian market. Note de contenu : - Collagen is essential for youthful-looking skin - TGF-β pathway to improved collagen synthesis - Extensive screening discovers high-performing synthetic TGF-β activator - High content analysis imaging reveals collagen upregulation in normal human dermal fibroblasts - The next step : tackling specific issues of ageing in different skin ethnicities - Understanding China's skin care needs - New studiy in China reveals fascinating results En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L0pWFgkYvcT9mcq8cQ_o75QbP_axsCH4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24937 [article]

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Hydroalcoholic triglyceride emulsions investigated / Tony O'Lenick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 51-53 Titre : Hydroalcoholic triglyceride emulsions investigated Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tony O'Lenick, Auteur ; David Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools Emulsifiants Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Stabilisants (chimie) Triglycérides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Emulsions are very important in preparation of a number of personal care formulations. Most emulsions contain a water phase and a water insoluble phase. Emulsions containing only these elements are difficult to make with the desired stability, functionality and aethetics. If one adds ethanol, a material that partitions between the water and oil phase, preparing suitable emulsions becomes much more difficult. This paper deals with a multi-stepped approach to making difficult emulsions, one type being emulsions that contain oil, water and alcohol. In the first step the proper HLB is determined experimentally, and in the second structural variables within a particular HLB are investigated. This combined approach provides very stable emulsions. Note de contenu : - GROUP OPPOSITES - HYDROPHOBIC MATERIALS - EMULSION TERMINOLOGY : Continuous phase - Discontinuous phase - Dispersion or emulsion - EMULSIFIER KIT - RESULTS : 24-HOUR STABILITY - IMPROVING EMULSION STABITLITY - PHOTOMICROGRAPHS En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tuRw9QOJRtV8W34eNF8tuoI5WrcLlN4O/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24938 [article]

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Skin tightening boosted in anti-ageing applications / Ingrid Vervier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 55-58 Titre : Skin tightening boosted in anti-ageing applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ingrid Vervier, Auteur ; Céline Bougaran, Auteur ; Isabelle Van Reeth, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 55-58 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Silicones Les silicones, ou polysiloxanes, sont des composés inorganiques formés d'une chaine silicium-oxygène (...-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-...) sur laquelle des groupes se fixent, sur les atomes de silicium. Certains groupes organiques peuvent être utilisés pour relier entre elles plusieurs de ces chaines (...-Si-O-...). Le type le plus courant est le poly(diméthylsiloxane) linéaire ou PDMS. Le second groupe en importance de matériaux en silicone est celui des résines de silicone, formées par des oligosiloxanes ramifiés ou en forme de cage (wiki). Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tight, moisturised skin is a universal symbol of youth and health, and the desire for skin perfection is a global beauty endeavour among consumers. Given the world's ageing population, the market for products that support the vitality and wellbeing of skin at any age can only continue to grow. Silicones have a long history of performance in skin care products, and their versatility continues to expand. In a new application for specialty for silicone materials, research shows silicone film-former can plays a role in skin tightening formulations that lift and firm the face. Now formulators can create anti-ageing skin care products that not only provide a instantaneous tightening sensation, but also ensure comfort. The result is a new level of performance - tested and validated - with lasting effects and a skin fell that is easy to wear. Note de contenu : - A new option for skin care - Evaluating aspects of skin tightening - Instant and lasting effects - Firmness linked with tightening - Week-long, in-use tests En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b_MWbQQ0Ez3d8cyY4TGXXbxhTuv1U942/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24940 [article]

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Natural-based emulsifier with sensory benefits / Stefanie Althaus in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 61-63 Titre : Natural-based emulsifier with sensory benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefanie Althaus, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 61-63 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomatériaux Emulsifiants Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Emulgade Sucro Plus, BASF's new 100% natural-based emulsifier is gentle on the skin and eyes. It was shown to positively influence sensory product properties, enabling a delicate emulsion-texture, easy distribution as well as a silky and light skin sensation. Due to its efficient electrolyte compatibility, it is suitable for formulations with high active and water soluble sun filter content. Note de contenu : - A new 100% natural-based emulsifier - Emulsifying properties - Offering more with improved sensory profiles - Skin and eye compatibility En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1alGgbL8rAW7ofRysONL9aHpGpEQE7wWv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24941 [article]

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Dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 65-68 Titre : Dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur ; Emmanuel Coste, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 65-68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Rhamnose Le Rhamnose est un désoxyose, précisément un désoxy-hexose du mannose. Le rhamnose est un 6-désoxy-hexose du type aldose, il est constitué d’une chaîne de 5 éléments carbone ainsi que d’une fonction aldéhyde. Il peut être classifié soit comme un méthyl-pentose ou soit comme un 6-déoxy-hexose. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The dermal epidermal junction (DEJ) is a complex structure (Fig. 1) primarily responsible for epidermis to dermis attachment. The DEJ thus warrants cohesion and mechanical resistance of the skin. It also behaves as a selective permeability barrier controlling cell migration (immune cells, for example), and molecular exchanges (growth factors and nutrients, stress signals). Epidermal cells'interaction with the DEJ regulates their proliferation, differentiation and migraton, which is critical for epiderma renewal, barrier function setup, and wound healing. Intrinsic and extrinsic ageing are associated with important DEJ structural modifications including flattening (loss of rete ridges), duplication and thinning (Fig. 3b). At molecular level, there is a decreased expression of the main DEJ constituent-proteins : collagens type IV, VII and XVII, laminin 5 and integrin β4. All these changes likely participate in structural and functional changes associated with ageing skin (elasticity loss, higher fragility, decreased resilience to stress, impaired wound healing). In photo-aged skin, degradation of some specific DEJ constituents such as heparan sulfate causes permeability modifications that were reported to participate in age spots formation. Therefore a large array of cosmetic benefits can be expecteed from DEJ protection and repair. Here we describe the properties of an original bioavailable rhamnose derivative, its mechanism of action, and clinical improvements obtained after four weeks of treatement. Note de contenu : - Design of a bioavailable rhamnose derivative - Sirhamnose efficacy : ex vivo study - Efficacy : clinical study - Skin hydration - Skin structure - Skin tone - Age spots En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/168yWCB7m_SLGEqjRGGjaQgKOAMzr3Qf0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24942 [article]

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The path to pigmentation and improving skin tone / Alicia Giménez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 70-72 Titre : The path to pigmentation and improving skin tone Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alicia Giménez, Auteur ; Cristina Davi, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Nùria Almiñana, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 70-72 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Etudes cliniques Evaluation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation de la peau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Uniformity of skin tone is know to influence perception of attractiveness and youthfulness and the aesthetic ideals in most cultures involve presenting an even skin tone. Brighlette marine ingredient is a complete active that can modulate various aspects of pigmentation to help achieve perfectly bright and even skin tone. Note de contenu : - A GLOBAL DEMAND FOR SKIN TONE EVENNESS - PIGMENTATION IS A MULTI-STEP PROCESS - AN INTEGRAL APPROACH TO BRIGHTEN AND EVEN THE SKIN : Modulation of skin pigmentation in vitro - Clinical evaluation of brightness and uniformity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rGPAnBR2fLzdf8XyrEsanTwah563cQz2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24963 [article]

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Study examines epigenetic regulation of melanogenesis / Neil Astles in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 73-76 Titre : Study examines epigenetic regulation of melanogenesis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Neil Astles, Auteur ; Ludivine Mur, Auteur ; Florian Labarrade, Auteur ; Catherine Gondran, Auteur ; Nouha Domloge, Auteur ; Sophia Antipolis, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 73-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Cosmétiques Epigénétique L'épigénétique (mot-valise de "épigenèse" et "génétique") est la discipline de la biologie qui étudie la nature des mécanismes modifiant de manière réversible, transmissible (lors des divisions cellulaires) et adaptative l'expression des gènes sans en changer la séquence nucléotidique (ADN) "Alors que la génétique correspond à l'étude des gènes, l'épigénétique s’intéresse à une "couche" d’informations complémentaires qui définit comment ces gènes vont être utilisés par une cellule ou… ne pas l'être". "C'est un concept qui dément en partie la "fatalité" des gènes". Formulation (Génie chimique) Mélanogénèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Over the past several years, a number of scientific papers have been published that suggest the skin pigmentation process can be fully mapped by following the cellular pathways and the molecules involved in melanogenesis. Indeed, it has been know for years that epidermal units within the skin generally serve to produce and distribute melanin; however,the regulatory process that controls pigmentation is now only coming into view; Understanding the regulatory pathways to melanogenesis will help the cosmetics industry in their effort to develop safe and effective strategies to temporarily brighten skin tone for cosmetic effects. Epigenetics is a process that leads to stable and heritable changes in gene expression without changes in the underlying DNA sequences. A new area of study, epigenetics science opens the door to discovery of melanin regulation. The research effort finds its roots in the medical community, where it is postulated that new approaches to treating cancer other than fixing or replacing damaged genes may also help to improve patient outcomes. The opening for epigenetic science began about 25 years ago after scientists discovered a distinct class of biologic regulators called miRNA. These small non-coding ribonucleic acids serve to fine tune the expresson of approximately 30% of all protein-encoding genes. The miRNA usually induces gene silencing by binding to messager RNA (mRNA). The interaction of a miRNA and its mRNA targets tends to prevent protein production by suppressing mRNA translation and/or by prompting mRNA degradation. The following research describes pathways to modulate miRNA epigeetic regullators in skin cells for cosmetic effects. Research outlining the down-regulation of miRNA-29a and the resulting effects in collagen synthesis and in prolidase activity is introduced as an example of the potential to utilise miRNA pathways to improve the appearance of skin. Moreover, miRNA-218 is considered for its role in regulating melanogenesis. A clinical study with 35 volunteers is also described, wherein hexapeptide-2(Trade Name : Dermostatyl IS biofunctional) is examined for its ability to brighten skin tone. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18Q4_iCLlQpR2htJRg1sqJqMjs1ykvGQy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24964 [article]

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17594	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible