Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women : Comparison with women of other ethnic origins / F. Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 20-25 Titre : Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women : Comparison with women of other ethnic origins Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : F. Flament, Auteur ; O. Coubard, Auteur ; R. Cruz, Auteur ; R. Flores, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contour des yeux Etudes comparatives Femmes Groupe ethnique Mexicain(e)s Protocole d'étude Statistique Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To evaluate the changes in certain ocular signs because of age, among Mexican women and to compare these with those previously obtained on women of other ethnicities. Material and methods Photographs were taken of the faces of 203 Mexican women of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed us to focus and define nine ocular signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. Hence, the same protocol, previously used on 3240 women of four other ethnic origins (Caucasian : 600; Chinese : 990 ; Japanese : 1010 ; Indian : 300 ; African: 340), allowed us to compare the results obtained on Mexican women. - Results : The severity of crow’s feet wrinkles for Mexican women shows a more intense progression with age than those of women from other ancestries. The lower eyelid wrinkles of Mexican women, that show weak or erratic changes with time, were however found to have higher and significant severity at a young age. Pigmentation disorders of their ocular area were found less pronounced as compared to those of Asian or Indian women. Eye bags were observed with similar slight changes in all five ancestries. - Conclusion : The present work confirms that the clinical signs of age for the female eye area develop differently depending on the ethnic origins of the volunteer. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Protocol - Grading the facial skin ageing signs - Statistics - Table 1 : Distribution of the studied Mexican women with age clusters - Table 2 : Illustration of the 9 studied ocular signs and their respective grading ranges in Mexican women - Table 3 : Changes of 9 ocular signs with ages in Mexican women (Mean ± Standard Deviation, S.D.). Grey, Orange or Green colours cells equivalent to non-significant differences among them. Each white cell is significantly different from all others DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12662 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10f-za867HPOJFWHruI_kJjDFmeqnfkh2/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35440 [article]

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Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics / Valéria de Mello in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 267-287 Titre : Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Valéria de Mello, Auteur ; Gilmar Alves de Mesquita Júnior, Auteur ; Julia Gabriela Eurico Alvim, Auteur ; Juliana de Carvalho da Costa, Auteur ; Fernanda Maria Pinto Vilela, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 267-287 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Biomolécules actives Brevets d'invention Café et constituants Contour des yeux Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Coffee is one of the most consumed beverages worldwide, and its production and consumption generate large amounts of by-products annually. Coffee by-products and coffee beans are rich in bioactive compounds of great commercial value, including potential applications as active ingredients in skin care products and cosmetic formulations. In addition, there has been growing interest in the use of natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes. Considering the importance of coffee in the world economy, its chemical constituents with potential for cosmetic and dermatological application, and the importance of patents for innovation and technological development, the present study aimed to review recent patents involving coffee and coffee by-product use in cosmetics. - Methods : This review was carried out using Espacenet. The following inclusion criteria were established: patents that included the terms “coffee” and “skin” in the title, abstract and claims and belonged to the classification A61Q, which is related to the “specific use of cosmetics or similar toilet preparations” considering the International Patent Classification (IPC) or Cooperative Patent Classification (CPC). - Results : Considering the 52 patents analysed, the bean was the main way to obtain extracts (39), followed by green beans (7), silverskin (3), peel and pulp (1), pulp (1) and beans and leaves (1). The formulations are mainly intended for use in nonspecific areas of skin (29), eye areas (12), scalp hair (9) and lip skin (2) with claims of anti-ageing, moisturizers, sun protection, hair growth, anti-dandruff, etc. - Conclusion : Coffee and its residues have high amounts of phenolic compounds, caffeine, fatty acids and other substances known to have important biological properties for the skin. Coffee and its by-products are promising ingredients to be incorporated into topical formulations, ensuring skin health benefits and reducing the environmental impact. Note de contenu : - METHODS - Results and discussion : Skin - Eye skin - Scalp skin - Lip skin - PATENTS FOR THE SKIN - PATENTS FOR EYE SKIN - PATENTS FOR SCALP SKIN - PATENTS FOR LIP SKIN - PATENTS PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET - Table 1 : Patents for skin application - Table 2 : Patents for eye skin - Table 3 : Patents for scalp skin - Table 4 : Patents for lip skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Byb5REIXQYNFjKSX2T9y_IaIUgFa7UX1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39558 [article]

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Sémantique du cerne et de la poche in ADDIACTIVE, N° 126 (2024)  

[article]  inADDIACTIVE > N° 126 (2024) . - p. 14-15 Titre : Sémantique du cerne et de la poche Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 14-15 Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Cernes Contour des yeux Poches sous les yeux Index. décimale : 611.78 Peau et ongles Résumé : Le contour de l'oeil est une zone fragile car la peau y est particulièrement fine et délicate, surtout dans la région infra-orbitaire. C'est pourquoi, et surtout en cas de fatigue, de mauvaise hygiène de vie ou de vieillissement, il est courant d'observer, tant chez les hommes que les femmes, des phénomènes inesthétiques qui marquent assombrissent le regard. Coup d'oeil sur leurs caractéristiques et leurs principales causes d'apparition Note de contenu : - LE CERNE, UN HALO BLEU-GRIS SOUS L'OEIL... : Cerne creux ou orbitalisation - Cerne coloré, brun, marron ou jaaune, plutôt visibles chez les peaux mates ou bleu-vert ou violet, parfois presque noir - LA POCHE OU CERNE PLEIN, UN GONFLEMENT SOUS LA PAUPIERE : Poche aqueuse, lymphoedème sous le rebord inférieur de l'orbite - Poche malaire : gonflement chronique des tissus mous recouvrant plus ou moins la surface de l'os malaire - Feston : signe extrême d'un relâchement du muscle orbiculaire et de la peau sus-jacente de l'os malaire - CERNES ET POCHES, SIGNES DE SYSFONCTIONNEMENTS VARIES... En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yv0D0LT-NxH60s_RXYkt5I6jwAYwl3zi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41168 [article]

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A validated photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles and its application in evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product in a split-face randomized clinical trial / M. M. O'Mahony in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 48-56 Titre : A validated photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles and its application in evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product in a split-face randomized clinical trial Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : M. M. O'Mahony, Auteur ; C. Sladen, Auteur ; M. Crone, Auteur ; E. Banner, Auteur ; V. L. Newton, Auteur ; A. Allen, Auteur ; M. Bell, Auteur ; I. Marlow, Auteur ; S. F. Acevedo, Auteur ; L. I. Jiang, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 48-56 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cernes Contour des yeux Cosmétiques Echelle photonumérique Etudes cliniques Evaluation Justification de l'allégation Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : As a result of their complex aetiology and periodicity, dark circles are difficult to characterize and measure, with current assessment techniques relying on specialist equipment, image analysis or proprietary grading scales. There is therefore a need to develop and validate a photonumeric scale for assessing infraorbital dark circles, which can provide an objective and consumer relevant tool for evaluating this condition and the efficacy of treatment products and procedures. - Methods : A panel of expert clinical evaluators reviewed approximately three thousand facial photographs collected over a 5-year period and selected images representing a dynamic range of dark circles. A 10-point photonumeric scale was created, with corresponding descriptors and images for each grade of the scale. To rigorously validate the scale, linearity, sensitivity and precision were assessed by colorimetry and in-clinic evaluation. Reproducibility was assessed photographically with both experienced and inexperienced clinical evaluators, whereas intragrader repeatability was assessed live in-clinic. The scale was then employed in a split-face randomized clinical trial on 58 subjects to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product over 8 weeks. - Results : Colour analysis of the images showed the scale was linear, with statistically significant correlations observed when colour data (CIElab; Individual Typology Angle) were plotted against the corresponding grades (r > 0.9, P < 0.001). Colour difference (Delta E) was calculated between the infraorbital zone and the surrounding skin, and when data were plotted against the grades, a statistically significant correlation was observed (r = 0.99, P < 0.01). The magnitude of the Delta E suggested that changes in grade are visibly perceptible to the human eye, and therefore, the scale is sensitive and clinically relevant. Intergrader reproducibility showed strong correlation (0.96) and >90% agreement between experienced evaluators, whereas intragrader repeatability assessment showed >90% perfect agreement between grades. Use of this scale in a clinical trial demonstrated the efficacy of a cosmetic product, with a mean statistically significant (P < 0.001) decrease in grade of 0.74 compared to baseline, and 0.59 versus the untreated control, after 8 weeks of treatment. - Conclusion : Our photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles is sensitive and robust and provides an objective and easy-to-use tool to evaluate dark circles and their treatment. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Creation of a photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles - Validation of the photonumeric scale - Clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product - RESULTS : Creation of a photonumeric scale for dark circles - Validation of the photonumeric scale - Application of the photonumeric scale in a clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product - Table 1 : Photonumeric scale for dark circles, with written descriptors and corresponding representative images, compiled from a database of facial images and the consensus opinion of a panel of expert evaluators - Table 2 : Delta E (ΔE) and difference in ΔE between grades - Table 3 : Delta E (ΔE) and difference in ΔE between half grades - Table 4 : Interevaluator correlation between experienced (E1 and E2) and inexperienced (IE1 and IE2) evaluators after scoring 20 images using the photonumeric scale as reference - Table 5 : Intragrader agreement at two time points with a least a 1-h interval between subjects at each time point (T0 ; baseline, T1 ; 1 month later) - Table 6 : Clinical trial subject demographics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12668 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vwxaC16VpVQf-S4oSRq5OlbkSz8CwRxD/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35443 [article]

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