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Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics / Valéria de Mello in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 267-287 Titre : Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Valéria de Mello, Auteur ; Gilmar Alves de Mesquita Júnior, Auteur ; Julia Gabriela Eurico Alvim, Auteur ; Juliana de Carvalho da Costa, Auteur ; Fernanda Maria Pinto Vilela, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 267-287 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Biomolécules actives Brevets d'invention Café et constituants Contour des yeux Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Coffee is one of the most consumed beverages worldwide, and its production and consumption generate large amounts of by-products annually. Coffee by-products and coffee beans are rich in bioactive compounds of great commercial value, including potential applications as active ingredients in skin care products and cosmetic formulations. In addition, there has been growing interest in the use of natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes. Considering the importance of coffee in the world economy, its chemical constituents with potential for cosmetic and dermatological application, and the importance of patents for innovation and technological development, the present study aimed to review recent patents involving coffee and coffee by-product use in cosmetics. - Methods : This review was carried out using Espacenet. The following inclusion criteria were established: patents that included the terms “coffee” and “skin” in the title, abstract and claims and belonged to the classification A61Q, which is related to the “specific use of cosmetics or similar toilet preparations” considering the International Patent Classification (IPC) or Cooperative Patent Classification (CPC). - Results : Considering the 52 patents analysed, the bean was the main way to obtain extracts (39), followed by green beans (7), silverskin (3), peel and pulp (1), pulp (1) and beans and leaves (1). The formulations are mainly intended for use in nonspecific areas of skin (29), eye areas (12), scalp hair (9) and lip skin (2) with claims of anti-ageing, moisturizers, sun protection, hair growth, anti-dandruff, etc. - Conclusion : Coffee and its residues have high amounts of phenolic compounds, caffeine, fatty acids and other substances known to have important biological properties for the skin. Coffee and its by-products are promising ingredients to be incorporated into topical formulations, ensuring skin health benefits and reducing the environmental impact. Note de contenu : - METHODS - Results and discussion : Skin - Eye skin - Scalp skin - Lip skin - PATENTS FOR THE SKIN - PATENTS FOR EYE SKIN - PATENTS FOR SCALP SKIN - PATENTS FOR LIP SKIN - PATENTS PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET - Table 1 : Patents for skin application - Table 2 : Patents for eye skin - Table 3 : Patents for scalp skin - Table 4 : Patents for lip skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Byb5REIXQYNFjKSX2T9y_IaIUgFa7UX1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39558 [article]

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How do the skin barrier and microbiome adapt to the extra-uterine environment after birth ? Implications for the clinical practice / Razvigor Darlenski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 288-298 Titre : How do the skin barrier and microbiome adapt to the extra-uterine environment after birth ? Implications for the clinical practice Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Razvigor Darlenski, Auteur ; Joachim W. Fluhr, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 288-298 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire. Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés. La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia) Couche cornée Dermatologie pédiatrique Enfants Hydratation Lactique, Acide L'acide lactique est un acide organique qui joue un rôle dans divers processus biochimiques. Un lactate est un sel de cet acide. Contrairement à ce que peut laisser penser son nom, l'acide lactique n'est pas présent uniquement dans le lait, mais également dans le vin, certains fruits et légumes, et dans les muscles. L'acide lactique est un acide alpha hydroxylé, sa formule chimique est C3H6O3 et sa structure se reflète dans son nom systématique, l'acide 2-hydroxypropanoïque. Microbiome Le microbiome (du grec micro = petit et bios = vie) est l'« aire biotique » (aire de vie) du microbiote, le mot microbiote désignant ici les espèces autrefois groupées sous le terme « microflore », c'est-à-dire celles qui prédominent et/ou sont durablement adaptées à la surface et à l'intérieur d'un organisme vivant. Nourrissons Peau -- analyse Perte insensible en eau pH Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The multiple protective functions of the skin derive from the interactions between epithelial skin and immune cells as well as the commensal microbiota. Developed in the last trimester of intra-uterine life, the skin barrier adapts dynamically after birth. Specific differences in the structure and physiology have been disclosed between infant and adult skin. The stratum corneum of infants is thinner and structured by thicker corneocytes with a more anisotropic surface in comparison to adult skin. Lower levels of the natural moisturizing factor and its constituents, together with the increased protease activity in the epidermis result in dry baby skin and ongoing adaptation of the desquamation to the extra-uterine environment. Infant epidermis is characterized by an accelerated proliferation rate and clinically competent permeability barrier in term neonates, despite the higher baseline values of transepidermal water loss in infants. The skin surface of newborns is less acidic, which could increase susceptibility to diaper and atopic dermatitis. Immediately after birth, skin is colonized by commensal bacteria—a process dependent on the mode of delivery and of major importance for the maturation of the immune system. Skin bacterial diversity and dysbiosis have been related to different pathology such as atopic and seborrheic dermatitis. This paper focuses on the ongoing structural, functional and biochemical adaptation of the human skin barrier after birth. We discuss the interactions on the ‘skin barrier/ microbiota/ immune system’ axis and their role in the development of competent functional integrity of the epidermal barrier. Note de contenu : - STRUCTURAL ADAPTATION AFTER BIRTH - BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION ADAPTATION - FUNCTIONAL ADAPTATION AFTER BIRTH : Permeability barrier evaluation by TEWL measurement - Hydration and water-handling properties of stratum corneum - Acidic skin surface or the so-called 'acid mantle' - Sebum secretion - Eccrine sweating - Cutaneous blood flow and colour SKIN MICROBIOME AND ANTI-MICROBIAL DEFENCE DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12844 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vDabEcPNeLrCQAQ7Is7w0pFgG3ZF20X2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39561 [article]

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Antioxidants for improved skin appearance : Intracellular mechanism, challenges and future strategies / Ngoc le Thi Nhu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) Titre : Antioxidants for improved skin appearance : Intracellular mechanism, challenges and future strategies Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Ngoc le Thi Nhu, Auteur ; Ju-young Moon, Auteur ; Young-Chul Lee, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Diffusion (physique) Innocuité Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation, Troubles de la Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Recent advances in molecular and biochemical processes relevant to the skincare field have led to the development of novel ingredients based on antioxidants that can improve skin health and youthfulness. Considering the plethora of such antioxidants and the many implications for the skin's appearance, this review focuses on describing the critical aspects of antioxidants, including cosmetic functions, intracellular mechanisms and challenges. In particular, specialized substances are suggested for the treatment of each skin condition, such as skin ageing, skin dehydration and skin hyperpigmentation, which treatments can maximize effectiveness and avoid side effects during skin care processes. In addition, this review proposes advanced strategies that either already exists in the cosmetic market or should be developed to improve and optimize cosmetic’ beneficial effects. Note de contenu : - COSMETIC PROPERTIES : Classifications of antioxidants - Cosmetic properties - FACIAL TREATMENT WITH ANTIOXIDANTS : Antioxidants reduce skin ageing - Antioxidants improve skin whitening - Antioxidants enhance skin moisturizing - Antioxidants for inhibiting sebum lipid oxidation - SAFETY AND CHALLENGES OF USING ANTIOXIDANTS FOR COSMETIC APPLICATION : Safety assessments of using antioxidants used in cosmetics - Challenges of using antioxidants in cosmetics - FUTURE WORKS ON DEVELOPMENT OF ANTIOXIDANTS-BASED SKINCARE PRODUCTS - Table 1 : 1 Antioxidant properties and cosmetic benefits of typical natural antioxidants - Table 2 : Antioxidant compounds and their respective mechanism of action in the treatments hyperpigmentation skin, and their challenges using in cosmetic products - Table 3 : Typical delivery systems for enhancing cosmetic efficiency DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12848 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13-dV08JihEtnAFuzt8874PJnjx6kRnN8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39562 [article]

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Comparative study of titanium dioxide to improve the quality of finished cosmetic products / Dominika Swiatczak in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 315-328 Titre : Comparative study of titanium dioxide to improve the quality of finished cosmetic products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Dominika Swiatczak, Auteur ; Sylwia Belica-Pacha, Auteur ; Anna Zawisza, Auteur ; Aneta Kisielewska, Auteur ; Agata Swiatly-Blaszkiewicz, Auteur ; Bogumila Kupcewicz, Auteur ; Bartosz Bartosewicz, Auteur ; Bartlomiej J. Jankiewicz, Auteur ; Magdalena Malecka, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 315-328 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Couleur Dioxyde de titane Ingrédients cosmétiques Pigments inorganiques -- Analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Titanium dioxide (TiO2) pigments (pure) or with a hydrophobic coating of triethoxycaprylylsilane (TECSi) used in cosmetics. Using different methods, we studied properties of commercially available pure and coated pigment. We determined the elemental composition of pigments that differ in their behaviour in a cosmetic formulation. The significant differences in the coating composition were revealed. - Methods : UV–Vis absorption spectroscopy allowed us to investigate the pigment purity and determined the polymorph form in pigments. FTIR was employed to identify functional groups present in the samples with the modified surface. XRD, DLS, TEM and DCS were applied to characterize particle size and morphology. The experiment of ED-XRF method was used to determine the elemental composition of pigments that differ in their behaviour in a cosmetic formulation. - Results : UV-Vis spectroscopy was used to detect organic pollutants in particular batches, which were not detected in the cases of the tested samples. Solid UV-Vis spectroscopy and XRD revealed which crystalline form of TiO2 is present in pigments. TEM and DLS methods were used to characterize particle size and morphology as well as DCS method, which provide more accurate information about form (separated or clustered particles) of pigments' particles in suspensions. Based on FTIR spectra, the presence of a coating in the raw material was identified, and the tell-tale signal of the silane group. On the contrary, spectroscopy of washed-out product can identify the well or poorly modified pigment. Applying ED-XRF, it turned out that the content of silicon (and consequently of the TECSi) was lower than that declared by the manufacturer. - Conclusion : Our data indicate how we can recognize poorly coated pigments in raw material. The results show that ED-XRF method is nondestructive, effective and fast, hence, can be successfully introduced into preproduction pigment control in cosmetic industry. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials and its characteristics - UV–vis spectrophotometry in solution and solid - NMR spectroscopy - X-ray powder diffractometry - FTIR spectroscopy - Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (ED-XRF) - Microscope image - DLS-Dynamic light scattering - Transmission electron microscopy - Differential centrifugal sedimentation - RESULTS : UV–vis spectrophotometry - H NMR spectroscopy - Structural Characteristics - FTIR spectroscopy - Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (ED-XRF) - Microscopic image - TEM-Transmission electron microscopy and DLS-dynamic light scattering - DCS-differential centrifugal sedimentation - Table 1 : Composition of raw materials listed in the publication - Table 2 : Composition of triethoxycaprylylsilane (C14H32O3Si) - Table 3 : Content of silicon and TECSi in the tested samples calculated based on the calibration curve DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12836 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1THkm0Of9SKNx8ZIGyjpC07hMkmc9yEcF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39563 [article]

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Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and a-tocopherol to human skin / Hichem Kichou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 329-344 Titre : Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and a-tocopherol to human skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hichem Kichou, Auteur ; Amanda C. Caritá, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Lahcen Bougassaa, Auteur ; Xavier Perse, Auteur ; Martin Soucé, Auteur ; Laurianne Gressin, Auteur ; Igor Chourpa, Auteur ; Franck Bonnier, Auteur ; Emilie Munnier, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 329-344 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caféine Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Stabilité Emulsions sans émulsifiants Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perméation pH -- Mesure Rhéologie Taille des gouttelettes Ultrasons Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Increasing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly products is driving the cosmetic industry to seek greener and safer processes. High-frequency ultrasound technology (HFUT) stabilizes emulsions without adding emulsifying surfactants (ES). In this work, the formulation characteristics of an HFUT-treated emulsion and a Reference emulsion were compared for both caffeine and α-tocopherol. - Methods : A comparison was made between ES-free emulsions and the Reference emulsions based on droplet size, viscosity, pH and rheology behaviour for both active cosmetic ingredients. The permeation of caffeine and the skin retention of α -tocopherol were studied in vitro using Franz diffusion cells on human skin biopsies, considered the gold standard for permeation assays. - Results : The formulations developed were stable and showed suitable droplet size distribution. In the case of ES-free emulsions, the average droplet size was inferior to 1.5 μm regardless of the polarity of the active. All formulations presented a shear-thinning pseudoplastic behaviour, an attribute usually desired for cosmetic products. The skin permeation studies showed that in the case of caffeine (model hydrophilic molecule), the ES-free emulsion presented a delivery capacity similar to that of the Reference emulsion. However, for α-tocopherol (highly lipophilic model molecule), differences were observed in the distribution of the active in the stratum corneum with an advantage for the Reference emulsion, probably due to the impact of surfactants on the SC lipids. - Conclusion : This work demonstrates that HFUT is a reliable tool that is able to prepare stable ES-free emulsions loaded with hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. Skin permeation studies confirm that the emulsions produced by HFUT promote the delivery of the actives to the human skin. In the case of α-tocopherol, the delivery efficiency was lower than with the Reference emulsion, especially in the SC layers, due to the absence of surfactants. Nevertheless, the ES-free emulsion still represents a good compromise between efficacy and the need for green cosmetics in the market. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - ES-free emulsion preparation by HFUT - Reference emulsion preparation with ES - Droplets size measurement - Viscosity and pH measurement - Rheology measurements - Human skin biopsies - Human skin permeation experiments - Caffeine permeation experiment - α-Tocopherol penetration experiment - HPLC analysis - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rheological behaviour - Emulsion stability - Caffeine permeation - α-Tocopherol SC penetration - Table 1 : Composition (wt %) of tested ES-free emulsions - Table 2 : Average particle size, D10, D50 and D90 for the caffeine and α-tocopherol ES-free emulsions - Table 3 : Values of viscosity (in Pa.s) collected at different shear rates (in s−1) from the shear flow test for the four studied emulsions - Table 4 : Viscosity, pH and average size of the droplets after 3 days (D3) and one month of storage for the caffeine and α-tocopherol ES-free emulsions and Reference emulsions - Table 5 : Steady-state fluxes (Jss), lag times (tlag) and permeability coefficients (kp) obtained from cumulative amount profiles of caffeine from ES-free and Reference emulsion through human skin samples from three donors DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12837 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WalVHhYdSvayc4H8aer26tc2DlSBwEIK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39564 [article]

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Characterization of piroctone olamine for topical delivery to the skin / Chun Fung Tang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 345-353 Titre : Characterization of piroctone olamine for topical delivery to the skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Chun Fung Tang, Auteur ; Miguel Paz-Alvarez, Auteur ; Paul D. A. Pudney, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 345-353 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antifongiques Antipelliculaires Caractérisation Chimie analytique Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Piroctone olamine Solubilité Stabilité chimique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Dandruff and its more severe related condition, seborrheic dermatitis affects a high proportion of the population at some point in their life. Piroctone olamine, also known as Octopirox® (OPX) is the monoethanolamine salt of piroctone and is an antifungal agent widely used for the management of dandruff. The aim of the present work was to characterize the physicochemical properties of piroctone olamine and to conduct pre-formulation studies for the development of novel topical formulations of this active. - Methods : An HPLC method was developed and validated for the analysis of OPX. The melting point was determined using the DSC Q2000 (TA Instruments, USA). The distribution coefficient (logD(O/PBS)) and partition coefficient (log Po/w) was determined in phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) AND deionized (DI) water using the shake flask method. All experiments were performed at room temperature. The solubility was determined experimentally by adding amount of active to a solvent. The samples were kept at 32° ± 1°C for 48 h in a water bath. The stability of the compound was determined in a range of solvents by preparing solutions of 1 mg mL-1 in the relevant solvents. These solutions were kept and stirred throughout the experiment at 32 ± 1°C, and aliquots were taken at 24, 48 and 96 h. - Results : The HPLC method was developed successfully; however, samples at the lower end of the calibration curve showed lower degrees of precision and accuracy. Based on experiments with DSC, the melting point was observed at an onset temperature of 132.4°C. The LogD was determined to be 1.84. The compound had the highest solubility in methanol (278.4 mg mL-1) and propylene glycol (PG), with a value of 248.8 mg mL-1. The lowest solubility for OPX was in dimethyl isosorbide (9.9 mg mL-1), Labrafac™ (3.6 mg mL-1) and isostearyl isostearate (0.5 mg mL-1). Over the 4 days, OPX showed stability in ethanol and PG, while a notable decrease in OPX was observed in PBS and DI water at 32 ± 1°C. - Conclusion : The physicochemical properties of OPX were characterized to find suitable excipients able to target the epidermis for topical delivery. Building on these findings, future work will focus on the development of novel topical formulation of OPX. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Melting point calculation - HPLC/LC–MS method for OPX - Distribution and partition coefficient determination (log Do/PBS, log Po/w) - Solubility and stability studies - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Melting point - OPX HPLC method validation - Distribution and partition coefficient determination (log DO/PBS, log PO/W) - Solubility and stability studies - Table 1 : Mobile phase gradient for the detection of OPX - Table 2 : HPLC method validation results for quantitative analysis of OPX. Mean ± SD, precision expressed in RSD% - Table 3 : Experimental values for log D(O/PBS) and log P(O/W) of OPX DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12839 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a6TU2ieHdyBPASNWW_rSB9b4UnPHR-Am/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39565 [article]

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A controlled forearm washing ex vivo method for assessing the impact of personal cleansing products on skin's acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defence against transient bacteria / Feng Yue in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 354-361 Titre : A controlled forearm washing ex vivo method for assessing the impact of personal cleansing products on skin's acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defence against transient bacteria Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Feng Yue, Auteur ; Betty Yu, Auteur ; Lesheng Zhang, Auteur ; Amy Yu, Auteur ; Caroline Wang, Auteur ; Zigang Xu, Auteur ; Karl We, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 354-361 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Escherichia coli Film hydrolipidique (dermatologie) Le film hydrolipidique est un film protecteur recouvrant la totalité de la surface de l'épiderme humain. C'est une émulsion complexe formée de substances provenant de sécrétions (sueur, sébum...) et d'agrégats cellulaires kératinisés ou morts. Son pH est légèrement acide. Ce film est à la base de la qualité de l'aspect extérieur de la peau puisqu'il la protège de plusieurs façons : - Il participe à la constitution de la barrière cutanée (avec la couche cornée) qui s'oppose à la pénétration de substances étrangères, - Il régule l'hydratation en maintenant les substances hygroscopiques (qui ont des affinités avec l'eau) dans les cellules cornées, - Il lutte contre les agressions microbiennes en autorisant toutefois le développement de la flore normale. (Wikipedia) Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Produits nettoyants Staphylocoques Surfaces antimicrobiennes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The objective of this study was to develop a controlled forearm washing ex vivo method for assessing the impact of personal cleansing products on skin's acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defence against transient bacteria. - Methods : We developed a controlled forearm washing ex vivo method (ex vivo NET method) to compare the impact of two representative personal cleansing products on skin's acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defence against transient bacteria: one was a low-pH skin cleanser, and the other was high-pH soap cleanser. Skin pH was measured at baseline and 4 h after the product application. Concurrently, D-squame tape stripping procedure was followed to sample the stratum corneum surface layers. Then, two selected transient bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, were inoculated onto the D-squame tapes and incubated under controlled conditions, respectively. The residual bacteria counts can provide an objective measure of skin's acid mantle properties against transient bacteria. Results from the ex vivo NET method were compared with the traditional in vivo cup-scrub RET method. - Results : The skin pH was significantly lower 4 h after washing the forearm with the low-pH cleanser versus the high-pH soap, consistent with literatures. Interestingly, the skin surface washed by the low-pH cleanser showed significantly higher hostility against representative transient bacteria as demonstrated by the lower counts of S. aureus by 1.09 log and E. coli by 0.6 log versus the high-pH soap based on the ex vivo NET method. Results from the ex vivo NET method were further supported by the traditional in vivo RET method which also showed the skin washed by the low-pH cleanser had significantly lower counts of S. aureus and E. coli versus the high-pH soap. - Conclusions : The skin's acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defence can be directly impacted by the personal cleansing products. The low-pH skin cleanser works better than the high-pH soap for supporting skin's acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defence against transient bacteria. Results from the ex vivo NET method are consistent with the in vivo RET method. It is important that the ex vivo NET method offers many advantages since it is quicker to run with higher throughput and has better safety without the constraint of inoculating harmful microorganisms onto the human subjects. Note de contenu : - Compositions of high-pH and low-pH skin cleansers - Controlled forearm washing ex vivo NET method - In vivo Cup-Scrub RET method - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : Skin pH at baseline and 4 h after product application comparing the high pH soap (product A, pH = 11.5) and the low-pH synthetic cleanser (product B, pH-4.55). The skin-pH values were significantly lower by 0.38 units (p < 0.05) at 4 h after using product B versus product A. - Table 2 : Log(CFU) of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli from in vivo cup-scrub RET method. The counts of S. aureus and E. coli were significantly lower by 0.86 log and 2.15 log, respectively, after using the low-pH cleanser (product B at pH = 4.55) versus the high-pH soap cleanser (product A at pH = 11.5). DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12840 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NRJU0CrKlcWuEOs1wRGFNSTmGJQcv0ZG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39566 [article]

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Relationship between skin fungal and bacterial microbiomes and skin pH / Narifumi Akaza in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 362-372 Titre : Relationship between skin fungal and bacterial microbiomes and skin pH Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Narifumi Akaza, Auteur ; Kazuto Takasaki, Auteur ; Takahiro Matsudaira, Auteur ; Atsuko Usui, Auteur ; Anna Iijima, Auteur ; Shiori Miura, Auteur ; Youichi Yashiro, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 362-372 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cutibactéries Dermatologie Japonais Malassezia Microbiome cutané Perte insensible en eau pH Staphylocoques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective :The present study investigated the relationship between the skin bacterial and fungal microbiomes and skin pH at sebaceous sites, namely, the forehead, cheek and upper chest. We also examined the relationship between the skin microbiome and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is an indicator of rough skin. - Methods : Thirty healthy Japanese subjects (15 females and 15 males) were enrolled as subjects. The forehead, cheek and upper chest were examined in August (summer) and February (winter). Skin surface samples were collected using the swab method, and the 16s rRNA and ITS regions were analysed using next-generation sequencing. Skin pH and TEWL were also assessed. - Results : The changes observed in the skin microbiome were associated with season-dependent changes in skin pH. An increase in skin pH at the forehead and cheek was associated with a higher relative abundance of Cutibacterium spp., a reduction in bacterial diversity, and a lower relative abundance of Staphylococcus spp. A decrease in skin pH at the upper chest was associated with a higher relative abundance of Malassezia restricta, a lower relative abundance of M. sympodialis and decrease in fungal diversity. Moreover, these changes were also associated with an increase in TEWL. - Conclusion : The present results indicate that changes in skin pH are associated with changes in the skin bacterial and fungal microbiomes at sebaceous sites. The changes observed in the skin microbiome were also associated with rough skin. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Subjects - Skin measurements - Sample collection of cutaneous microorganisms - DNA extraction - Next-generation sequencing - Data analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Skin condition - Seasonal changes in the skin microbiome - Correlations between skin condition and cutaneous microorganisms DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12842 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11QTqxob_qrXoxvujR4BpLJWXi2hjYjJL/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39567 [article]

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Sodium hyaluronates applied in the face affects the diversity of skin microbiota in healthy people / Chen He in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 373-386 Titre : Sodium hyaluronates applied in the face affects the diversity of skin microbiota in healthy people Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Chen He, Auteur ; YingXue Yue, Auteur ; Ruilong Li, Auteur ; Yiping Huang, Auteur ; Luan Shu, Auteur ; Huixia Lv, Auteur ; Jing Wang, Auteur ; Zhenhai Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 373-386 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Hyaluronane Microbiote cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Séquençage des acides nucléiques Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A healthy and stable microbiome has many beneficial effects on the host, while an unbalanced or disordered microbiome can lead to various skin diseases. Hyaluronic acid is widely used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries; however, specific reports on its effect on the skin microflora of healthy people have not been published. This study aimed to determine the effect of sodium hyaluronate on the facial microflora of healthy individuals. - Methods : Face of 20 healthy female volunteers between 18 and 24 years was smeared with sodium hyaluronate solution once per day. Cotton swabs were used to retrieve samples on days 0, 14, and 28, and high-throughput sequencing of 16 S rRNA was used to determine the changes in bacterial community composition. - Results : Facial application of HA can reduce the abundance of pathogenic bacteria, such as Cutibacterium and S. aureus, and increase the colonization of beneficial bacteria. - Conclusion : This is the first intuitive report to demonstrate the effect of hyaluronic acid on facial microflora in healthy people. Accordingly, sodium hyaluronate was found to have a positive effect on facial skin health. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials and reagents - Participants - Sample collection and preservation - 16 S rRNA sequencing - Statistical analysis - Alpha-diversity of skin microbiota and dilution curve - B-Diversity analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Alpha-diversity of skin microbiota and dilution curve - Composition and abundance of skin microbiota - B-Diversity analysis - Table 1 : 1 Software & database information DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12845 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iYJ5tqGBg-aBO7KTJDs8Dpo3vnvAETXZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39568 [article]

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Enlarged rete pegs with excessive accumulation of melanosomes leading to darker aging spots revealed by histomorphological measurements of internal structures of the epidermis / Tatsuo Yamamura in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 387-399 Titre : Enlarged rete pegs with excessive accumulation of melanosomes leading to darker aging spots revealed by histomorphological measurements of internal structures of the epidermis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Tatsuo Yamamura, Auteur ; Soko Kobayashi, Auteur ; Ikuyo Yoshida, Auteur ; Ken-ichi Kuriyama, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 387-399 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules basales Chevilles de rete Les chevilles de rete (également appelées processus de rete ou crêtes de rete ) sont les extensions épithéliales qui se projettent dans le tissu conjonctif sous-jacent de la peau et des muqueuses. Épithélium cutané (violet) avec lamina propria (tissu conjonctif sous-jacent) (rose) - l'épithélium présente des chevilles rete. Les chevilles Rete protègent le tissu contre le cisaillement. Dans l'épithélium de la bouche, la gencive attachée présente des rete pegs, contrairement aux épithéliums sulculaire et jonctionnel. Le tissu cicatriciel manque de chevilles et les cicatrices ont tendance à se cisailler plus facilement que les tissus normaux. Aussi connues sous le nom de papilles, ce sont des épaississements vers le bas de l'épiderme entre les papilles dermiques. (Wikipedia) Dermatologie Mélanosome Microscopie confocale à balayage laser Peau -- Physiologie Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Various histological studies of facial pigmented spot sites such as solar lentigo have been reported, but few studies have used quantitative indices by histomorphometric analysis of the internal structure of pigmented spot sites using non-invasive methods. In the present study, to quantitatively elucidate morphological changes in the epidermis in male, darker-pigmented spots and female, light-pigmented spots, indices that characterize the internal structure of the epidermis in pigmented spot sites were measured using in vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). - Methods : The darkness of pigmented spots on the cheeks of 69 women and 43 men was analysed using image analysis software. The L* value was calculated from RGB values obtained from facial images. The internal structures of pigmented spots on the cheeks of 13 subjects were observed by CLSM. Various parameters were measured using CLSM images from the surface of the stratum corneum to the bottom of the dermal papillae, including the thickness of the epidermis, melanosome content, and shape of the dermal papillae. - Results : Mean ΔL* values between pigmented spots and non-pigmented areas of male subjects were significantly increased in the 40s and 50s compared with those of female subjects. Conspicuous pigmented spots increased in the 40s in male subjects and the 50s in female subjects. In CLSM observations, significant increases in the thickness of the epidermis and melanosome content were confirmed in pigmented spots compared with surrounding non-pigmented areas. In particular, melanosome content in the male subject group with dark-coloured pigmented spots increased significantly to about eight times that of non-pigmented areas, and more than double that of the male subject group with light-coloured pigmented spots. - Conclusion : From the measurements of quantitative parameters, morphological changes in the epidermis were clearly related to the surface colour tone of pigmented spots. Darker pigmented spot sites tended to show longer rete pegs in the epidermis. Accumulation of melanosomes in epidermal basal cells could be considered to increase with the degree of elongation of rete pegs at pigmented spot sites and, thus, induce darker pigmented spots. Note de contenu : - Darkness of pigmented spots - Classification of pigmented spots by facial images - In vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy imagin - Image analysis - Plasmin-like activity measurement - Table 1 : Skin internal structure parameters of pigmented spot sites DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12846 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N7kURDEzzTsv7rwPy1lezdamlIsgqbi6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39569 [article]

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Novel double staining of the stratum corneum with fluorescent ε-poly-l-lysine and anionic dextran / Moemi Yoshida in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 400-412 Titre : Novel double staining of the stratum corneum with fluorescent ε-poly-l-lysine and anionic dextran Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Moemi Yoshida, Auteur ; Sana Numajiri, Auteur ; Nao Notani, Auteur ; Koji Nomoto, Auteur ; Hiroya Urabe, Auteur ; Jun-ichi Sato, Auteur ; Yuji Yamashita, Auteur ; Tetsuji Hirao, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 400-412 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Couche cornée Dermatologie Peau -- Coloration Peau -- Physiologie Polydextrane Polymères cationiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : ε-Poly-l-lysine (PLL) is a cationic polymer consisting of 25–35 l-lysine residues. Our previous study revealed that fluorescently labelled PLL can stain the stratum corneum (SC) via ionic interactions between PLL and SC constituents. In this study, to further clarify the mechanisms underlying the interaction between PLL and the SC, the staining properties of fluorescent PLL were compared with that of fluorescently labelled anionic dextran (aDex), which has approximately the same molecular weight as PLL. - Methods : SC samples were collected by non-invasive tape stripping and stained with fluorescent PLL and/or fluorescent aDex. Fluorescence images were acquired using a fluorescence microscope and then analysed. - Results : The SC could be stained with either fluorescent PLL or aDex, both of which were inhibited by the addition of high concentrations of salt solutions. In particular, aDex staining was inhibited at a lower salt concentration than PLL staining. Moreover, PLL staining was inhibited under acidic conditions, while aDex staining was inhibited under neutral to alkaline conditions. Double staining of SC with both fluorescent polymers produced heterogeneous staining patterns: corneocytes stained with both polymers, corneocytes stained with PLL or aDex in a mutually exclusive manner, and unstained corneocytes. Staining of SC samples from the face was more extensive than staining of SC samples from the inside of the upper arm with both polymers. In addition, pretreatment of the SC with ethanol resulted in enhanced staining with both polymers. These results suggest that double staining of SC with both polymers can provide information on the damaged SC. - Conclusion : Staining of SC with fluorescent PLL depends on its properties of a cationic and hydrophobic polymer with appropriate molecular size, which can distinguish the damaged SC. Double staining of SC with fluorescent PLL and aDex is a novel approach to obtain information for the analysis of skin conditions. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Reagents - Fluorescent labelling of PLL - Sampling of stratum corneum - Staining of SC with fluorescent polymers - Double staining of SC with fluorescent PLL and aDex - Staining of albumin-adsorbed membrane - RESULTS : Dose dependence of SC staining with fluorescent PLL and aDex - pH dependence of SC staining with fluorescent PLL and aDex - Inhibition of SC staining at high salt concentrations - Regional difference in SC staining with fluorescent PLL and aDex - Double staining of SC with fluorescent PLL and aDex - Characterization of PLL and aDex adsorption by BSA - Perturbation of keratin organization and fluorescent polymer staining DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12847 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fsBzMjeEPFgi8e8FI0g0uedzgNxUnSrf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39570 [article]

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Cosmetic effects of red-light reflection by ultramarine blue pigment / Fumiyoshi Ikkai in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 413-423 Titre : Cosmetic effects of red-light reflection by ultramarine blue pigment Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Fumiyoshi Ikkai, Auteur ; Carl Blaksley, Auteur ; Rena Hayashi, Auteur ; Alexander Jaspers, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 413-423 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bleu outremer Le bleu outremer ou outremer est un bleu profond, longtemps extrait de la pierre fine de lapis-lazuli puis fabriqué synthétiquement à partir du XIXe siècle. La base est un thiosulfate d'aluminosilicate de sodium. Cosmétiques Fond de teint Lumière rouge Maquillage Pigments inorganiques Réflectance Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Inorganic pigments used as colouring agents in cosmetics (especially foundations) have many advantages over organic pigments, such as better opacity, weather and chemical resistance and lower cost. However, the types used in cosmetics are very limited, with various kinds of red, yellow and black iron oxide along with white titanium dioxide being the main materials. Ultramarine blue (UB) as a blue pigment and chromium oxide as a green pigment are also sometimes used in cosmetics. In this study, we focus once again on UB and reexamine the possibility of expanding the colour gamut using UB instead of black pigment and creating other optical cosmetic effects. - Methods : The effects of using UB were measured using spectroscopic instruments to determine the colour parameters when applied on artificial skin. The appearance of the product when applied to the human face was also verified both in terms of human appearance evaluation by an expert (esthetician) and numerical evaluation using imaging spectrometer measurements. - Results : The verified results showed that, at least in the colour range targeting Asian people, UB could not create a new colour gamut, but it was clear that UB could impart an optical effect that produced a beautiful skin effect on the face. This was remarkable both in the evaluation of human appearance and in the spectral measurement results, which confirmed the phenomenon “red-light makes skin look beautiful,” which has been variously reported since the 2000s, using a different approach. - Conclusion : We have discovered a new possibility that UB, widely recognized as a pigment, is involved not only in colour tone but also in optical effects that contribute to the goal of beautiful skin, i.e. hiding skin wrinkles, eliminating unevenness of colour and improving skin homogeneity. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - In vitro measurement - Observation under different light condition - In vitro test - Expert observation on human skin - Hyperspectral imaging (HSI) measurement - RESULTS : Ultramarine blue properties - DISCUSSION : The nature of BLUE effect DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12849 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xsPZWs-dkf2NpKH4cHVOoniC7VVM-SbP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39571 [article]

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