Determination of the feel of hair after cosmetic treatment-Sensory and objective test methods / U. Assmus in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008) . - p. 121-128 Titre : Determination of the feel of hair after cosmetic treatment-Sensory and objective test methods Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : U. Assmus, Auteur ; P. Augustin, Auteur ; H. Hensen, Auteur ; P. Hössel, Auteur ; G. Lang, Auteur ; H. Leidreiter, Auteur ; A. Markowetz, Auteur ; V. Martin, Auteur ; B. Noecker, Auteur ; E. Poppe, Auteur ; M. Pfaffernoschke, Auteur ; H. Schmidt-Lewerkuhne, Auteur ; Erik Schulze zur Wiesche, Auteur ; A. Schwan-Jonczyk, Auteur ; J. Wood, Auteur ; F.-J. Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 121-128 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Human  hair'  'Feel'  'Handle'  'Conditioner'  'Conditioning  shampoo'  'Combing'  'Measurement'  'Suppleness'  'Microscopy'  'Round  robin  test' Résumé : This work was performed in the period from 2002 to 2006. The feel of natural and damaged hair was studied after treatment with classical conditioning formulations. A cetrimonium chloride/cetyl alcohol conditioner and shampoos based on sodium lauryl ether sulphate and polyquaternium-10 or dimethiconol, respectively, were used. In addition to a broad-based round robin test to determine the hair feel in 12 test centres, suppleness measurements, atomic force microscopy and scanning electron microscopy, combing force measurements and shine measurements were performed. The cetrimonium chloride conditioner and the silicone shampoo produced the best hair feel. There was a correlation between hair feel and the suppleness measurement. The coating of the hair surface after shampooing with polyquaternium-10 and dimethiconol could be seen with atomic force microscopy and scanning electron microscopy. There was no correlation of the hair feel with shine or ease of combing. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10372 [article]

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Investigating the relationship between the hair fiber proteome and hair quality / Daniella M. Heywood in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 2 (04-05-06/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 2 (04-05-06/2004) . - p. 115-118 Titre : Investigating the relationship between the hair fiber proteome and hair quality Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Daniella M. Heywood, Auteur ; Christina Vrettou, Auteur ; J. Wood, Auteur ; J. Hill, Auteur ; Siobhan Casey, Auteur ; Paul A. Cornwell, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 115-118 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Colorant  'Propriétés  de  traction'  'Beauté  du  cheveu'  'Qualité  mécaniques'  'Perception  consommateur' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Many hair characteristics (e.g. color and curl) are genetically determined. Here, we investigated whether hair quality is also genetically controlled and related to differences in hair composition. Female, Caucasian subjects (n = 292) were recruited into this study and segmented by self-perceived hair quality and by permanent colorant usage. Hair fibers were collected and characterized by amino acid analysis, dry tensile elastic modulus testing and two-dimensional electrophoresis of hair protein extracts. Protein analysis revealed a string of 66 kDa proteins that correlated with hair of high quality. Loss of low molecular weight (14–29 kDa) proteins increased with colorant usage, particularly in hair of low quality. Amino acid analysis showed that the levels of serine and threonine across all the subjects followed bimodal frequency distributions suggestive of a genetic influence. Overall, data suggested that perception of quality was linked to high serine and threonine levels. In addition, where hair was colored, quality was associated with lower cysteic acid levels. Lower cysteic acid levels were not linked to lower colorant usage and our data suggest that high quality hair may be more resistant to colorant damage. Elastic modulus was significantly higher in hair of higher quality (4.65 GPa) compared to all medium and low quality hair combined (4.3 GPa), P < 0.02. This suggests a link between altered hair composition and mechanical properties. In conclusion, the composition and mechanical properties of hair have been linked to hair quality. We hypothesize that hair quality is thus likely to be genetically determined. Understanding of the links between hair composition and its properties could be utilized in the future for designing products targeted to each individual's hair make-up, and for producing diagnostic tools for determining hair quality. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10525 [article]

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