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IFSCC MAGAZINE . Vol. 11, N° 2Photoprotection / Exfoliation for sensitive skin / Feel of hair / Cuticular damage / Washing resistance of artificial hair colorsMention de date : 04-05/2008 Paru le : 23/07/2008 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierDesign and evaluation of a photoprotective compound able to release taurine under conditions of oxidative stress / Patrick Lafitte in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008)
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Titre : Design and evaluation of a photoprotective compound able to release taurine under conditions of oxidative stress Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Patrick Lafitte, Auteur ; Lionel Valenti, Auteur ; Lydia Casciani, Auteur ; Thierry Hoarau, Auteur ; Erika Lomonte, Auteur ; Frédéric Maccario, Auteur ; Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 105-112 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Photoprotection Antioxidant 'Electrophilic species scavenging' 'Structure-activity relationship' Taurine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel photoprotective ingredient with anti-oxidant and electrophilic scavenging properties was designed. A structure–activity relationship study was conducted in order to optimize its bioavailability, specifically its ability to reach deep layers of the skin that may be affected by ultraviolet radiation-induced oxidative stress. A particular characteristic of this compound is its ability to release taurine upon reaction with some reactive oxygen species. In situ taurine formation may contribute to photoprotection. Preliminary in vitro experiments provide some evidence for effective protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress. Scavenging of the electrophilic species 4-hydroxynonenal, a highly cytotoxic end product of membrane lipid peroxidation, seems to be 2-oxo-1,3-thiazolidine major photoprotective mechanism. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10358
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 010540 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Exfoliation for sensitive skin with neutralized salicylic acid ? / Eve Merinville in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008)
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Titre : Exfoliation for sensitive skin with neutralized salicylic acid ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eve Merinville, Auteur ; Aurelie Laloeuf ; Garrett Moran, Auteur ; Olivia Jalby, Auteur ; Anthony V. Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 115-119 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Exfoliation 'Hydroxy acids' 'Salicylic acid' 'Stratum corneum' Résumé : Hydroxy acids enjoy tremendous interest in cosmetology thanks to their skin anti-ageing and water barrier enhancing activities. One of their actions is to promote the natural stratum corneum (stratum corneum) desquamatory process. However, their use is limited due to an inherent pH-related irritancy potential which is even more exacerbated on sensitive skin. Clearly there is an opportunity for improvement. In this research we evaluated in humans the efficacy of salicylic acid, and its salts, as a corneodesmolytic agent using the dihydroxyacetone method and measuring the reduction in skin staining with treatment over time using a chromameter. Salicylic acid at 2% in a preparation of pH 3.12 significantly increased exfoliation by 10.9% compared with placebo (P < 0.05), confirming its desquamatory enhancing properties. Then the effect of vehicle cream pH on salicylic acid activity was studied. Salicylic acid at close to neutral pH (mostly in its neutralized form as salicylate, pH 6.50) exerted a corneodesmolytic activity as good as that of salicylic acid in an acidic vehicle (pH 3.12) after only two days of application. Furthermore, the performance of glycolic acid and salicylic acid salts as exfoliants were compared at pH 6.50. When these two hydroxyl acids were formulated at the same molar level in a cosmetic base (14.47mmol L-1), the salicylic acid preparation gave an 8.2% increase in stratum corneum desquamation compared with the glycolic acid preparation (P < 0.05). The corneodesmolytic effects were confirmed using a tape-stripping assay combined with a quantitative protein assay. Neutralized salicylic acid was found to enhance the removal of stratum corneum proteins significantly more than the vehicle after 25 sequential tape strippings (14%; P < 0.05). Finally, salicylic acid had no significant influence on skin water barrier properties after 22 days of treatment. In the second phase of this research we assessed the suitability of neutralized salicylic acid as an ingredient for sensitive skin. A stinging test was performed according to the Frosch & Kligman method to evaluate the influence of the formulation base-pH on stinging potential. Salicylic acid formulated at pH 6.50 induced no stinging sensation (score 0) in contrast to salicylic acid at pH 3.12 (score 19; P < 0.05). In addition, a clinical study was conducted to assess the erythema induced on volunteers’ cheeks after a single application of a neutralized salicylic acid (1%) formulation compared with placebo. Visual redness was assessed by a dermatologist and then measured with a Mexameter. No significant differences were observed. Moreover, half of the panel had sensitive skin and no correlation could be established between redness and/or abnormal sensation and sensitive skin. In conclusion, neutralized salicylic acid at a 1% concentration is a suitable exfoliant agent for subjects with sensitive skin. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10371
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 010540 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Determination of the feel of hair after cosmetic treatment-Sensory and objective test methods / U. Assmus in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008)
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Titre : Determination of the feel of hair after cosmetic treatment-Sensory and objective test methods Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : U. Assmus, Auteur ; P. Augustin, Auteur ; H. Hensen, Auteur ; P. Hössel, Auteur ; G. Lang, Auteur ; H. Leidreiter, Auteur ; A. Markowetz, Auteur ; V. Martin, Auteur ; B. Noecker, Auteur ; E. Poppe, Auteur ; M. Pfaffernoschke, Auteur ; H. Schmidt-Lewerkuhne, Auteur ; Erik Schulze zur Wiesche, Auteur ; A. Schwan-Jonczyk, Auteur ; J. Wood, Auteur ; F.-J. Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 121-128 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Human hair' 'Feel' 'Handle' 'Conditioner' 'Conditioning shampoo' 'Combing' 'Measurement' 'Suppleness' 'Microscopy' 'Round robin test' Résumé : This work was performed in the period from 2002 to 2006. The feel of natural and damaged hair was studied after treatment with classical conditioning formulations. A cetrimonium chloride/cetyl alcohol conditioner and shampoos based on sodium lauryl ether sulphate and polyquaternium-10 or dimethiconol, respectively, were used. In addition to a broad-based round robin test to determine the hair feel in 12 test centres, suppleness measurements, atomic force microscopy and scanning electron microscopy, combing force measurements and shine measurements were performed. The cetrimonium chloride conditioner and the silicone shampoo produced the best hair feel. There was a correlation between hair feel and the suppleness measurement. The coating of the hair surface after shampooing with polyquaternium-10 and dimethiconol could be seen with atomic force microscopy and scanning electron microscopy. There was no correlation of the hair feel with shine or ease of combing. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10372
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 010540 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Cuticular damage to african-american hair during relaxer treatments - A microfluorometric and SEM study - / Sigrid B. Ruetsch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008)
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Titre : Cuticular damage to african-american hair during relaxer treatments - A microfluorometric and SEM study - Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sigrid B. Ruetsch, Auteur ; Binhua Yang, Auteur ; Yash K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 131-137 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'African-American hair' 'Lye-based' 'No-lye relaxers' 'Relaxer solutions' 'Commercial relaxer systems' 'Relaxer-induced surface changes/damage' 'Surface chemistry' 'Physical nature' 'Microfluorometry' Résumé : In earlier publications [1,2,3 we discussed several in-depth studies of characterization and quantification of damage done to European dark brown hair fibres by photochemical and cosmetic-chemical oxidation (bleaching) and reduction (perming) processes. These earlier studies established considerable changes in surface chemistry such as an increase in acidity and hydrophilicity. We discussed in detail the breakdown of the lipid domains (delipidation) of the outer ®-layer of the exposed scale faces and generation of anionic (sulphonic acid) groups (acidification) on the hair surface caused by these oxidative and reduction processes. The goal of this current study is to characterize and quantify the level of chemical and physical changes in the surface of African-American hair caused by various »lye-based« and »no-lye« relaxer treatments [4]. This study attempts to establish which product delivers the best »hair straightening« performance while resulting in the least chemical and physical changes in the hair surface. We again use a microfluorometric technique with the help of the cationic fluorochrome Rhodamine B to detect, map and quantify relaxer-induced changes in the surface chemistry of human hair fibre. In addition, we also use SEM at various magnifications to highlight relaxer-induced changes in the physical nature of the hair surface. We attempt to associate the level of increase in fluorescence intensity, which represents an increased level of delipidation/acidification of the hair surface, with the damage level to the hair topography, and thus, determine the least damaging cosmetic chemical process. Damage to the physical nature of the hair topography as observed by SEM shows a clear difference between treatments involving lab-made relaxer solutions and commercial relaxer systems. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10373
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 010540 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A highly sensitive method to determine the washing resistance of artificial hair colors / Erik Schulze zur Wiesche in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008)
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Titre : A highly sensitive method to determine the washing resistance of artificial hair colors Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Erik Schulze zur Wiesche, Auteur ; Siglinde Erpenbach, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 139-142 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Color fading' protection' retention' 'Hair color resistance' wash simulation' Résumé : Due to the improved performance of modern hair colorants, the high natural variability in hair qualities and the individual influences of manual product applications, colour care effects of cosmetic treatments are very difficult to detect. A new, highly sensitive test method to study the colour fading behaviour of human hair was established for a large variety of cosmetic treatments. This method is based on an automatic multistage application of standard wool tissues combined with automatic colour evaluation by means of CIE L × a × b × measurements (DIN 5033). The delta E values are the main interest because they include all information regarding the L (black vs. white), a (red-green) and b (blue-yellow) axes defined in the Hunter Lab colour space. For validation of this new method, different permanent and non-permanent hair colour shades were applied to undamaged light brown Caucasian hair strands. The hair strands were washed manually stepwise 30 times and the colour loss compared with the results obtained on wool tissues using an automatic application system. For most of the investigated hair colours, a coefficient of determination of r2 > 0.99 was achieved. Modern permanent hair colours show a high resistance to cosmetic treatments. Over 90% of the initial colour result was retained after 30 product applications. Shampoo and conditioner formulations induce different degrees of colour loss in hair. In basic formulas significant influences of single surfactants could be detected. The new method using wool tissues correlates very well with that using manually washed Caucasian hair strands. This automatic method is very time-effective and offers an excellent reproducibility with a high sensitivity for assessing product influences on artificial hair colours. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10374
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