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Age-dependent changes in eumelanin composition in hairs of various ethnic origins / S. Commo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 1 (02/2012)
[article]
Titre : Age-dependent changes in eumelanin composition in hairs of various ethnic origins Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Commo, Auteur ; K. Wakamatsu, Auteur ; Isabelle Lozano, Auteur ; S. Panhard, Auteur ; G. Loussouarn, Auteur ; B. A. Bernard, Auteur ; S. Ito, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 102-107 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux
Dopachrome Tautomerase
Eumélanine
MélanineTags : Âge 'Dopachrome tautomerase' 'Origine ethnique' Eumélanine 'Mélanine cheveu' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair pigmentation is one of the most conspicuous phenotypes of humans. From a chemical point of view, however, data remain scarce regarding human hair pigmentation characteristics. To determine melanin content and composition in human eumelanic hair from individuals of different ethnic origins and at different ages, we collected hair from 56 subjects with eumelanic hair from each group of African-American, East Asian, and Caucasian origin. The 56 subjects consist of 14, seven each of males and females, each from four age classes of younger than 11, between 12 and 19, between 20 and 45, and older than 46. We analysed hair colour scale, total melanin value, and contents of pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA). We measured age-dependent increases in the relative quantity of eumelanin in pigmented human hairs in the three ethnic groups. Regarding melanin composition, we observed an increase in the PDCA/PTCA ratio with age in African-American and Caucasian hairs until approaching the quite constant level of the ratio in East Asian hairs in the elderly individuals. Our results evidence differences in the content and composition of eumelanin in human hair among African-American, Caucasian and East Asian individuals. Furthermore, we show evidence of age-dependent changes in the quantity and quality of eumelanin in pigmented human hairs. In particular, the age-dependent modification of the PDCA/PTCA ratio, a marker for 5,6-dihydroxyindole units in eumelanin, suggests a chronological evolution of hair follicle melanocyte phenotype (e.g. decrease in dopachrome tautomerase expression). Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Chemical analyses - Statistical analyses
- RESULTS : Pigmentation scores in the three ethnic groups - Effect of age on quantity and quality of eumaleninDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00691.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00691.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=13285
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 1 (02/2012) . - p. 102-107[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 13560 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine : unique behaviour in solution and in hair care formulations / M. Minguet in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 32, N° 4 (08/2010)
[article]
Titre : Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine : unique behaviour in solution and in hair care formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Minguet, Auteur ; Neus Subirats Vicient, Auteur ; Pilar Castàn, Auteur ; T. Sakai, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 246-257 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cheveux -- Teinture
Produits capillairesTags : Amidoamine Conditionnement 'Eco-friendly' Béhénic 'Coloration du cheveu' Solubilité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : L’essor de la conscience écologique parmi les consommateurs et l’industrie a eu un fort impact dans le marché des tensioactifs cationiques. Les plus employés d’entre eux ont quelques désavantages de ce point de vue. À ce sujet, on est en train d’étudier et développer des nouvelles molécules qui accomplissent les conditions éco-toxicologiques, sans perdre leur efficacité adoucissante. Un de ces tensioactifs c’est la Béhénamidopropyl Diméthylamine (BAPDMA). Cette amidoamine, qui est totalement biodégradable et non toxique pour l’environnement, évolue dans un tensioactif cationique à des pHs acides. Dans l’eau le produit montre une solubilité inespérément élevée, malgré qu’il a une chaîne alchilyque très longue.
Nous avons étudié à fond son comportement en dissolution. L’efficacité de conditionnement du produit se montre supérieure à celle des tensioactifs cationiques employés habituellement, en donnant un profil sensoriel supérieur et en améliorant la souplesse de coiffure. En plus, pour ce produit, d’autres applications ont été étudiées dans la forme non ionique, par exemple, son emploi comme agent conditionneur dans des shampooings 2 en 1, où il montre aussi un effet protecteur de la couleur et comme agent de texture dans des crèmes de coloration capillaire. Ce profil multifonctionnel et de haute efficacité, ainsi que un bon profil éco-toxicologique, en comparaison avec les tensioactifs cationiques employés actuellement, fait que la béhénamidopropyl diméthylamine soit une très bonne alternative pour le marché du soin capillaire.DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00566.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00566.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=9860
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 32, N° 4 (08/2010) . - p. 246-257[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 012418 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Continuous three-dimensional examination of interior hair structure / Ken-ichi Tanaka in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (01-02-03/2005)
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Titre : Continuous three-dimensional examination of interior hair structure Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ken-ichi Tanaka, Auteur ; Yutaka Tango, Auteur ; Koichi Shimmoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 3-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Structure intérieure du cheveu' 'Essai non-destructif' Tomographie 'Couleur Polychromie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The ability to continuously examine the interior hair structure throughout a treatment process is very important in designing effective hair products. Microscopy is commonly used to observe the interior of hair, but this method requires a sliced sample, making continuous observation impossible. Use of X-ray computed tomography (CT) as a non-destructive measurement has been proposed, but this method has a disadvantage in that it is impossible to obtain full-color interior images of the sample. Thus, a non-destructive method for continuous, full-color examination of the interior hair structure has been lacking. In this study a new method is proposed that enables non-destructive and continuous measurement of the interior hair structure with color information. In our method, optical CT is used for reconstruction of the interior hair structure. Our new theories enabled us to solve the crucial problem of the large observational error of traditional optical CT systems caused by internal light scattering and to make its practical application possible. A new optical CT system based on our method was implemented. This system displayed sufficient accuracy when the phantom image was measured, and clear and full-color cross-sectional images were obtained without destruction of the sample when human hair was observed. When the bleaching and dyeing processes were continuously measured, changes in the interior hair with time could be observed. These results clearly indicate that our new method provides a powerful tool for research and product development. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10461
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (01-02-03/2005) . - p. 3-8[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003886 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Fluorescence and scanning electron microscopic characterization of cuticle erosion in human hair / Sigrid B. Ruetsch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (01-02-03/2006)
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Titre : Fluorescence and scanning electron microscopic characterization of cuticle erosion in human hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sigrid B. Ruetsch, Auteur ; Yash K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 29-35 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation
Cheveux -- Détérioration
Cuticule -- Détérioration
Fluorimétrie
Microscopie électronique à balayageTags : 'Cheveu' 'Exposition environnementale' au toilettage 'Usure du cuticule' 'Caractéristiques phénomène de dommage cheveu' 'Microfluorométrie SEM' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Environmental and natural grooming damage of hair were investigated by the microfluorometric method using Rhodamine B as the fluorescent tracer. An increase in fluorescence intensity of tracer-tagged hair as we moved from the root to middle section and trip end is indicative of weathering and progressive mechanical damage. The locus of Rhodamine B penetration and interaction occurs at the scale edge in the root end, changing to the scale face and scale edge in the middle section, and finally to the cortical cell surfaces and the intercellular cement at the tip end in long hair. The resulting increase in fluorescence emission intensity is indicative of progressive damage to the cuticular structure, ultimately resulting in the loss of the cuticular sheath. Scanning electron microscopic observations show detailed features of progressive cuticle erosion and abltion. Characteristic changes in the physical nature and shape of the cuticle cell compared to its appearance as it emerged from the follicle are indicative of environmental and mechanical damage inflicted upon hair. Change of the smoothly contoured scale edge to its jagged shape, frequent appearance of "failed endocuticular material" left behind after the inextensible A-layer and exocuticle have been chipped away, and "tear lines" or "seams", which are the loci where the surface cuticle cells were orinally attached, are indicative of progressive cuticle erosion. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10535
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 1 (01-02-03/2006) . - p. 29-35[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003890 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Investigating the relationship between the hair fiber proteome and hair quality / Daniella M. Heywood in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 2 (04-05-06/2004)
[article]
Titre : Investigating the relationship between the hair fiber proteome and hair quality Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Daniella M. Heywood, Auteur ; Christina Vrettou, Auteur ; J. Wood, Auteur ; J. Hill, Auteur ; Siobhan Casey, Auteur ; Paul A. Cornwell, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 115-118 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Colorant 'Propriétés de traction' 'Beauté du cheveu' 'Qualité mécaniques' 'Perception consommateur' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Many hair characteristics (e.g. color and curl) are genetically determined. Here, we investigated whether hair quality is also genetically controlled and related to differences in hair composition. Female, Caucasian subjects (n = 292) were recruited into this study and segmented by self-perceived hair quality and by permanent colorant usage. Hair fibers were collected and characterized by amino acid analysis, dry tensile elastic modulus testing and two-dimensional electrophoresis of hair protein extracts.
Protein analysis revealed a string of 66 kDa proteins that correlated with hair of high quality. Loss of low molecular weight (14–29 kDa) proteins increased with colorant usage, particularly in hair of low quality. Amino acid analysis showed that the levels of serine and threonine across all the subjects followed bimodal frequency distributions suggestive of a genetic influence. Overall, data suggested that perception of quality was linked to high serine and threonine levels. In addition, where hair was colored, quality was associated with lower cysteic acid levels. Lower cysteic acid levels were not linked to lower colorant usage and our data suggest that high quality hair may be more resistant to colorant damage. Elastic modulus was significantly higher in hair of higher quality (4.65 GPa) compared to all medium and low quality hair combined (4.3 GPa), P < 0.02. This suggests a link between altered hair composition and mechanical properties. In conclusion, the composition and mechanical properties of hair have been linked to hair quality. We hypothesize that hair quality is thus likely to be genetically determined. Understanding of the links between hair composition and its properties could be utilized in the future for designing products targeted to each individual's hair make-up, and for producing diagnostic tools for determining hair quality.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10525
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 2 (04-05-06/2004) . - p. 115-118[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003883 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible