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Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert their Sensory Impact in Different Phases of the Sensory Evaluation Process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002)
[article]
Titre : Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert their Sensory Impact in Different Phases of the Sensory Evaluation Process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Marie-Claire Taelman, Auteur ; Vincent A. L. Wortel, Auteur ; Cock Verboom, Auteur ; J. Chris Dederen, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 99-105 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Skin sensory research' Emulsifier 'Cosmetic ingredient' Formulations 'Principal component analysis' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Whereas most experimental procedures in science are typically geared to show the presence or existence of objects or phenomena, showing the lack of presence, i.e. absence, of something is a lot more complicated, in particular if it cannot be seen. In order to demonstrate that a new emulsifier system did not impact the skin feel of a formulation in which it was incorporated, various formulations only differing in the emulsifier were made and their skin feel was compared using descriptive analysis. Paired comparisons were used to maximize the chance of measuring a difference. Clear differences were detected between the formulations in the early phases of the sensory evaluation process, demonstrating that emulsifiers in general do contribute to skin feel and to different degrees. The only remaining question was "what is no influence?"
Therefore, the formulations were compared with the neat oils, but the differences were found to be dramatic for all comparisons. When comparing formulations that only differed in their emollients, it could be shown that the formulations containing the new emulsifier were able to maintain small differences in skin feel that were also obsrved for the neat oils whereas the other emulsifier systems failed to maintain these differences or introduced new ones. The results also clearly demonstreted that while emulsifiers affect the skin feel in the early phases of sensory evaluation (appearance, pick-up and run-out), emollients exert their sensory impact predominantly during the after-feel of a cosmetic formulation.
It was conclued that despite the practical experience that the new emulsifier did not contribute to skin feel, it is impossible to show this due to the lack of a true reference that represents no skin effect.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10652
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002) . - p. 99-105[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003874 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Sensory evaluation of moisturizing creams : combination of descriptive analysis panel test and preference test / So-Yeon Sim in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 1 (01-02-03/2002)
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Titre : Sensory evaluation of moisturizing creams : combination of descriptive analysis panel test and preference test Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : So-Yeon Sim, Auteur ; Soo-Jeong Jeong, Auteur ; Bo-Kyoung Sun, Auteur ; Seong-Joon Moon, Auteur ; Ih Seop Chang, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 19-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Sensory evaluation' 'Moisturizing cream' 'Trained panel' Consumer Preference 'Descriptive analysis' 'Preference testing and principal component Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The two most important factors that are perceived by consumers using cosmetic products are the biological or clinical effect and the sensorial effect. For repeated use of a product, its skin feel must be pleasant and comfortable to the user. As the skin feel of a product depends on the user’s sensation, the sensory evaluation is indispensable to measure and analyze its characteristics. Therefore, quantitative and descriptive sensory evaluation measuring the intensity of the characteristics and consumer’s preference evaluation are both required, and its desirable to correlate them.
We selected women through discriminative and descriptive tests to form a trained panel. They described the skin feel using various creams and emulsions, and sorted out the terms through discussion to decide the evaluation terminology and the definition of each term. Then, they were trained to remember the intensities of the reference materials’ characteristics. Under the same test condition, moisturizing creams were tested by the same test method.
The statistical analysis of the collected data showed that the principal components of the feel of these moisturizing creams were residuary factor and spreadability factor, and according to the results, the products were positioned in a 2-dimensional space. We also selected several creams among the tested products to run a preference test by consumers of various skin types and ages.
As a result, we subdivided the preferred skin feel of the moisturizing cream according to the skin type an the age of the consumer. With the descriptive sensory evaluation and the preference test results, we proposed the desirable skin feel of the moisturizing cream corresponding to the consumers’ skin type and age.
Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10662
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 1 (01-02-03/2002) . - p. 19-23[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 004652 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible