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Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert their Sensory Impact in Different Phases of the Sensory Evaluation Process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002)
[article]
Titre : Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert their Sensory Impact in Different Phases of the Sensory Evaluation Process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Marie-Claire Taelman, Auteur ; Vincent A. L. Wortel, Auteur ; Cock Verboom, Auteur ; J. Chris Dederen, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 99-105 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Skin sensory research' Emulsifier 'Cosmetic ingredient' Formulations 'Principal component analysis' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Whereas most experimental procedures in science are typically geared to show the presence or existence of objects or phenomena, showing the lack of presence, i.e. absence, of something is a lot more complicated, in particular if it cannot be seen. In order to demonstrate that a new emulsifier system did not impact the skin feel of a formulation in which it was incorporated, various formulations only differing in the emulsifier were made and their skin feel was compared using descriptive analysis. Paired comparisons were used to maximize the chance of measuring a difference. Clear differences were detected between the formulations in the early phases of the sensory evaluation process, demonstrating that emulsifiers in general do contribute to skin feel and to different degrees. The only remaining question was "what is no influence?"
Therefore, the formulations were compared with the neat oils, but the differences were found to be dramatic for all comparisons. When comparing formulations that only differed in their emollients, it could be shown that the formulations containing the new emulsifier were able to maintain small differences in skin feel that were also obsrved for the neat oils whereas the other emulsifier systems failed to maintain these differences or introduced new ones. The results also clearly demonstreted that while emulsifiers affect the skin feel in the early phases of sensory evaluation (appearance, pick-up and run-out), emollients exert their sensory impact predominantly during the after-feel of a cosmetic formulation.
It was conclued that despite the practical experience that the new emulsifier did not contribute to skin feel, it is impossible to show this due to the lack of a true reference that represents no skin effect.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10652
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002) . - p. 99-105[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003874 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible GMP and Natural Active Ingredients : A Tracer Method for Analytical Determination in Finished Products / Karl Lintner in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)
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Titre : GMP and Natural Active Ingredients : A Tracer Method for Analytical Determination in Finished Products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Lintner, Auteur ; Viviane Genet, Auteur ; Catherine Julien, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 109-112 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : '6th amendment' 'tracer molecule' biotin 'plant extracts' 'complex blends' 'analytical determination' 'cosmetic active ingredients' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetic manufacturers are faced with increasingly demanding and complex legislation (GMP, 6th amendment). In order to help improve traceability of certain ingredients (in particular "Botanicals/Actives") in finished cosmetic formulas, we have developed a method that uses a tracer molecule for ascertaining and quantifying the presence of a specific, otherwise indefinable ingredient blend. The tracer molecule, biotin (vitamin H), detectable at ppb levels, fulfils the requirements of safety, stability, alalytical sensitivity and economics. The methodology, its advantages and shortcomings are discussed in this article. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10739
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003871 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Dosage de l'octyl dimethyl PABA, de l'homosalate et de l'octyl salicylate dans les produits de protection solaire / M.-O. Masse in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 23, N° 6 (12/2001)
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Titre : Dosage de l'octyl dimethyl PABA, de l'homosalate et de l'octyl salicylate dans les produits de protection solaire Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M.-O. Masse, Auteur ; M. Herpol-Borremans, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 325-331 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesTags : 'Cosmetic products' Homosalate HPLC/UV 'Octyl dimethyl' PABA salicylate' (INCI names) Sunscreens Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : La méthode décrit le dosage de l'octyl diméthyl PABA (2-éthylhexyl 4-(diméthylamino)benzoate) (CAS RN 21245-02-3), de l'homo-salate (3,3,5-triméthylcyclohexyl salicylate) (CAS RN 118-56-9) et de l'octyl salicylate (2-éthylhexyl salicylate) (CAS RN 118-60-5) dans les produits cosmétiques de protection solaire.
L'échantillon est mis en suspension dans le méthanol et après traitement approprié, le dosage est effectué par HPLC/UV. La précision, le rendement et la fiabilité de la méthode ont été déterminés.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00075.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00075.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=4834
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003995 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible