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How skincare ingredient concentrations can modulate the effect of polyols and oils on skin moisturization and skin surface roughness / G. W. Nam in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (01-02-03/2006)
[article]
Titre : How skincare ingredient concentrations can modulate the effect of polyols and oils on skin moisturization and skin surface roughness Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : G. W. Nam, Auteur ; S. H. Kim, Auteur ; Eun Joo Kim, Auteur ; J. H. Kim, Auteur ; Byeong Gun Chae, Auteur ; Hae Kwang Lee, Auteur ; S. J. Moon, Auteur ; Hak-Hee kang, Auteur ; Ih Seop Chang, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 37-41 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Huiles et graisses
Peau -- Biopsie
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polyols
RugositéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skincare ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils are essential ingredients in a skin care formulation, but it is still not understood how their concentrations affect their efficacy and sensory properties on human skin. We studied various concentrations of ingredients from cosmetics companies using noninvasive methods. The polyols consisted of glycein and butylene glycol (BG) in a ratio of 1:1, and the oils consisted of equal parts of hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate. All compounds were tested in O/W emulsions in concentrations ranging from 0-27% for polyols and from 0-35% for oils. We investigated the effect on water content and stratum corneum roughness on forearm skin after application of the compounds. The skin water content was determined by skin capacitance measurements and the skin surface roughness by visual scoring of skin surface biopsies in the scanning electron microcrographs. The water content of the skin correlated highly with the polyol (up to 20 %) and oil (up to 12 %) concentrations, respectively. Two hours after application the correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985, respectively (p<0.01). Skin surface roughness not only showed a strong a ratio of 2.5 to 1 (polyols and oils). Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with other methods for noninvasive measurement. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10536
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 1 (01-02-03/2006) . - p. 37-41[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003890 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Sensory evaluation of moisturizing creams : combination of descriptive analysis panel test and preference test / So-Yeon Sim in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 1 (01-02-03/2002)
[article]
Titre : Sensory evaluation of moisturizing creams : combination of descriptive analysis panel test and preference test Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : So-Yeon Sim, Auteur ; Soo-Jeong Jeong, Auteur ; Bo-Kyoung Sun, Auteur ; Seong-Joon Moon, Auteur ; Ih Seop Chang, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 19-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Sensory evaluation' 'Moisturizing cream' 'Trained panel' Consumer Preference 'Descriptive analysis' 'Preference testing and principal component Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The two most important factors that are perceived by consumers using cosmetic products are the biological or clinical effect and the sensorial effect. For repeated use of a product, its skin feel must be pleasant and comfortable to the user. As the skin feel of a product depends on the user’s sensation, the sensory evaluation is indispensable to measure and analyze its characteristics. Therefore, quantitative and descriptive sensory evaluation measuring the intensity of the characteristics and consumer’s preference evaluation are both required, and its desirable to correlate them.
We selected women through discriminative and descriptive tests to form a trained panel. They described the skin feel using various creams and emulsions, and sorted out the terms through discussion to decide the evaluation terminology and the definition of each term. Then, they were trained to remember the intensities of the reference materials’ characteristics. Under the same test condition, moisturizing creams were tested by the same test method.
The statistical analysis of the collected data showed that the principal components of the feel of these moisturizing creams were residuary factor and spreadability factor, and according to the results, the products were positioned in a 2-dimensional space. We also selected several creams among the tested products to run a preference test by consumers of various skin types and ages.
As a result, we subdivided the preferred skin feel of the moisturizing cream according to the skin type an the age of the consumer. With the descriptive sensory evaluation and the preference test results, we proposed the desirable skin feel of the moisturizing cream corresponding to the consumers’ skin type and age.
Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10662
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 004652 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Synthesis of 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate and its irritation-reducing activities / Jae Won You in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003)
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Titre : Synthesis of 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate and its irritation-reducing activities Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jae Won You, Auteur ; Duck Hee Kim, Auteur ; Su Sun An, Auteur ; Ih Seop Chang, Auteur ; Hak-Hee kang, Auteur ; Ok Sub Lee, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 15-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aminoalkyle-menthyl-phosphate
Anti-inflammatoires
Peau -- Inflammation
Visage -- Soins et hygiène
Vitamine AIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A cosmetic raw material, aminoalkyl-menthyl-phosphate was synthesized and its irritation-reducing property was investigated. Aminoalkyl-menthyl-phosphate was prepared by the reaction of menthyl phosphorodichloride and aminoalcohol, followed by hydrolysis. Among them, 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate showed a significant effect to reduce the irritation caused by retinol and AHA, which is comparable to that of hydrocortisone, a steroidal anti-inflammatory drug. In addition, its synthetic scheme was very simple and economic and we could prepare 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate with high purity and good yield. Inclusion of such an ingredient in cosmetics that contain biologically active compounds such as retinol and AHA may result in preparations with a lower irritation potential. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10611
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003) . - p. 15-18[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003878 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible