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Application of a tensile-strength test method to the evaluation of hydrating hair products / V. Mercelot in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 20, N° 4 (08/1998)
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Titre : Application of a tensile-strength test method to the evaluation of hydrating hair products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : V. Mercelot, Auteur Année de publication : 1998 Article en page(s) : p. 241-249 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Evaluation 'Hair care' Hydration Measurement 'Tensile strength' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Les méthodes couramment utilisées pour étudier l'état d'hydratation du cheveu (gravimétrie, microscopie, évaporimétrie) concernent le plus souvent une zone limitée de la fibre. En conséquence les résultats obtenus ne reflètent pas la variabilité, des propriétés physicochimiques de la fibre entière. De plus, les méthodes expérimentales pour évaluer le pouvoir hydratant de traitements capillaires sont peu nombreuses dans la littérature. Cette étude propose une nouvelle méthode pour mesurer le taux d'hydratation de cheveux traités ou non, grâce à un test basé sur la résistance à la traction du cheveu. Une analyse graphique des variations de résistance à la traction en fonction de l'Humidité Relative après un traitement capillaire, permet de calculer trois Indices d'hydratation: Indice de Protection, Indice d'Hydratation Immédiat et Indice d'Hydratation Permanent. Cette technique apporte des informations utiles sur le comportement du cheveu en fonction de l'Humidité Relative et sur les différents mécanismes d'hydratation engendrés par les traitements capillaires. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.176610.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.176610.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=5015
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 20, N° 4 (08/1998) . - p. 241-249[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003974 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Color simulation method for accurate prediction of resulting dyed hair color / T. Takahashi in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 2 (04-05-06/2006)
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Titre : Color simulation method for accurate prediction of resulting dyed hair color Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : T. Takahashi, Auteur ; Yutaka Tango, Auteur ; Koichi Shimmoto, Auteur ; Tsuyoshi Ogihara, Auteur ; Shigeyoshi Momose, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 123-128 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Hair color' dye' 'Three layers model' 'light-transmittance' Prediction Simulation Device Apparatus Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When choosing hair dyes, it is natural for the user to assume that the final hair color will resemble the color indicated on the product container or color chart. Often, however, the result is quite different. The ability to accurately predict resulting hair color after dyeing is essential, but not easy to attain because hair varies significantly from person to person. In this paper, a new method for predicting the dyed hair state is proposed. Our method is based on a model, where the observed final color consists of contribution from three layers of the hair structure: a melanin-containing layer, a bleached layer and a pigment-colored layer. A method for predicting the final color from responses in each layer is introduced. In this method, response formulae for each layer are derived from the energy balance, and the predicted hair color after dyeing is obtained by calculating the each equation assuming that the hair state before dyeing is solely because of the contribution from the melanin-containing layer. In addition, a small measuring apparatus utilizing this prediction method was developed and the effectiveness of our method demonstrated by data obtained before and after the hair dyeing. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10850
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 2 (04-05-06/2006) . - p. 123-128[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 008185 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Eugenyl glucoside as an active ingredient for hair re-growth agent : release of eugenol from eugenyl glucoside on human scalp and 5alpha-reductase inhibitory effect / Kazuto Hamada in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)
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Titre : Eugenyl glucoside as an active ingredient for hair re-growth agent : release of eugenol from eugenyl glucoside on human scalp and 5alpha-reductase inhibitory effect Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kazuto Hamada, Auteur ; Uchiwa Hideyo, Auteur ; Takeshi Ikemoto, Auteur ; Hiroyuki Nishio, Auteur ; Hirofumi Kuwahara, Auteur ; Yasushi Watanabe, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 83-87 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Eugenyl glucoside' Eugenol Clove 'Release control' Anti-androgen '5alpha-reductase inhibitor' 'Androgenetic alopecia' 'Hair re-growth' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Clove bud oil is an important natural essential oil known to be effective in activating hair growth as well as blackening gray hair though its mechanisms remain clear. The main component of this oil is eugenol, which is used as a herbal remedy for a wide variety of diseases. However, eugenol typically has a spicy odor and is effective for a limited time only, due to its volatility. We investigate the fact that unopened clove buds contain odorless eugenyl glucoside as one of the precursors of eugenol and examined the effect of eugenyl glucoside in vitro, as well as its effect on hair re-growth in vivo. Eugenol generated from eugenyl glucoside showed a much stronger 5α-reductase inhibitory effect than other related compounds and plant extracts. Further, the release of eugenol from eugenyl glucoside on human scalp showed an increase that began from just after application, and remained sustained after 24 hours. In a clinical pilot study, the efficacy rate of a hair growth agent containing 0.5% eugenyl glucoside was 83.3%. No adverse reactions were observed in any patient throughout the study period. Moreover, a 0.5% dose of eugenyl glucoside showed a mitigative effect against alcohol. From our results, we concluded that eugenyl glucoside was a useful active ingredient that showed potential as an agent for hair re-growth. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10730
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003871 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Free internal lipids in hair from pre- and post-menopausal women / Jennifer Wills in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)
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Titre : Free internal lipids in hair from pre- and post-menopausal women Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer Wills, Auteur ; Susan Dolphin, Auteur ; Louise Albiston, Auteur ; Presh Parmar, Auteur ; Gillian E. Westgate, Auteur ; Godfrey J. Harrap, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 293-296 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Menopause lipids 'hair fiber' sebum age beauty attributes' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Little is known about changes in hair lipids during life and their effects on hair properties. Our objectives were to study for the first time the effects of the female menopause on hair lipids, the contribution of sebum, and hair quality using pre-menopausal and post-menopausal subjects with and without hormone replacement therapy. Extracted hair lipids were quantified by high performance thin layer chromatography, forehead sebum output measured by sebumeter and hair greasiness, shine, softness and smoothness evaluated by expert assessment. Pre-menopausal free internal lipids contained free fatty acids, wax or cholesteryl esters, cholesterol, ceramides, triglycerides and squalene. The composition was distinct from scalp surface lipids collected at the same time and from hair follicles from facelift patients, with no wax or cholesteryl esters and squalene in follicles and no ceramides in the surface lipids. Wax or cholesteryl esters and squalene were decreased (P < 0.05) and cholesterol and ceramides increased (P < 0.05) in post-menopausal hair. The changes for squalene, wax or cholesteryl esters and cholesterol were reduced when hormone replacement therapy was taken. Sebum output and hair greasiness, shine, softness and smoothness fell significantly (P < 0.05) after menopause. Hormone replacement therapy increased (P < 0.05) results after menopause. It is concluded that hair free internal lipids derive from both the hair follicle and sebum. Sebum output falls after menopause and contributes less to hair lipids. The hair condition also changes. Understanding hair changes during life should improve matching of hair products to consumer needs. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10482
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004) . - p. 293-296[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003885 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A highly sensitive method to determine the washing resistance of artificial hair colors / Erik Schulze zur Wiesche in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008)
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Titre : A highly sensitive method to determine the washing resistance of artificial hair colors Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Erik Schulze zur Wiesche, Auteur ; Siglinde Erpenbach, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 139-142 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Color fading' protection' retention' 'Hair color resistance' wash simulation' Résumé : Due to the improved performance of modern hair colorants, the high natural variability in hair qualities and the individual influences of manual product applications, colour care effects of cosmetic treatments are very difficult to detect. A new, highly sensitive test method to study the colour fading behaviour of human hair was established for a large variety of cosmetic treatments. This method is based on an automatic multistage application of standard wool tissues combined with automatic colour evaluation by means of CIE L × a × b × measurements (DIN 5033). The delta E values are the main interest because they include all information regarding the L (black vs. white), a (red-green) and b (blue-yellow) axes defined in the Hunter Lab colour space. For validation of this new method, different permanent and non-permanent hair colour shades were applied to undamaged light brown Caucasian hair strands. The hair strands were washed manually stepwise 30 times and the colour loss compared with the results obtained on wool tissues using an automatic application system. For most of the investigated hair colours, a coefficient of determination of r2 > 0.99 was achieved. Modern permanent hair colours show a high resistance to cosmetic treatments. Over 90% of the initial colour result was retained after 30 product applications. Shampoo and conditioner formulations induce different degrees of colour loss in hair. In basic formulas significant influences of single surfactants could be detected. The new method using wool tissues correlates very well with that using manually washed Caucasian hair strands. This automatic method is very time-effective and offers an excellent reproducibility with a high sensitivity for assessing product influences on artificial hair colours. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10374
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04-05/2008) . - p. 139-142[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 010540 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible ICL-H (Induced Chemiluminescence of Human Hair) a new method for quantitative analysis of hair-stress / S. Benard in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)
PermalinkNew Technique to Capture Viscoelastic Changes in Hair Induced by Mechanical Stress / S. B. Hornby in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002)
PermalinkRheological characterization of hair shampoo in the presence of dead sea salt / B. Abu-Jdayil in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 26, N° 1 (02/2004)
PermalinkThe role of oxidative damage in poor scalp health: ramifications to causality and associated hair growth / J. R. Schwartz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, suppl. 2 (12/2015)
PermalinkEffect of alkyl substitution on styling and conditioning properties of co(Vinyl pyrrolidone - DMAPMA - DMAPMA+ - C12H25Cl-) / J. Jachowicz in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 1 (01-02-03/2002)
PermalinkIdentification and characterization of vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium chloride copolymers in cosmetic products by pyrolysis–gas chromatography–mass spectrometry method / E. Gmahl in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04/1993)
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