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Titre : Sustainable solutions for hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Franzke, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur ; Tuttu Nuutinen, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Lidia Kulcsar, Auteur ; Coralie Alonso, Auteur ; David Streuli, Auteur ; Anthony Luschen, Auteur ; Penny Antonopoulos, Auteur ; Xin Qu, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Conditionneurs (cosmétique)
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Mousse (chimie)
Produits capillaires
Produits coiffants
Rhéologie
shampooings
Surfactants
ViscositéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustainability is an area which is permanently growing in importance. Therefore, there is also a growing demand for environmentally conscious cosmetic products.
The current article summarizes a series of solutions for hair care that fit this market need applying different concepts.
A snapshot of varying hair care formulation concepts – shampoos, conditioners, and hair styling – with different strategies to help improve sustainability profiles for the different product types is presented.
Examples include cellulose derivatives that help to reduce raw material use like surfactants in shampoos or conditioners while maintaining the original level of performance. Guar derivatives improve deposition of natural oil or anti dandruff actives on hair and scalp thus optimizing the benefits of such ingredients. Biodegradable guars can also be used in styling products creating high performing systems, with long-lasting hold.Note de contenu : - SUSTAINABLE APPROACHES FOR SHAMPOO : Reducing surfactant by adding methylhydroxypropylcellulose - Guars, nature-derived materials for optimized deposition
- IMPROVING SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE OF RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS : Hair mousse
- Table 1 : Sulfate-free surfactant formula w HPMC for foam study
- Table 2 : Effect of HPMC in reducing Interleukin1-alpha release in sulfate-free formula
- Table 3 : Mousse Formulations
- Fig. 1 : Foam profile sulfate-free surfactant mix with HPMC vs commercial sulfate-based shampoo
- Fig. 2 : Diluted commercial AD w. Guar large flocs formed and AD prototype with Guar Nhance BF 13 small flocs formed
- Fig. 3 : Viscosity profile of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Using Serrated parallel plates (50 mm), 25 deg C, Controlled shear stress, Bohlin Rheometer. All Conditioners were made using identical process, same ageing time
- Fig. 4 : Wet and dry sensory assessment of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Test Mannequin heads with damaged hair.
- Fig. 5 : High humidity curl retention of aqueous Styleze ES-1 solutions in comparison to Aqueous PQ-4 solutions. Cond: 90% rel. Hum./25°C
- Fig. 6 : Stylezeâ„¢ ES-1 delivers long term (48-hour) styling benefits vs. PQ-4 mousse
- Fig. 7 : Tack measurement of Stylezeâ„¢ ES-1 and PQ-4 with texture analyzer
- Formulation 1 : Base formulation conditionerEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15GWzyaeN4T0a7gkqNszcvryvubAdcrLK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33826
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 38-44[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21589 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Synergistic effects of taurine and caffeine on regulation of the hair cycle : composition of bioactives against premature hair loss / Thomas Welss in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012)
[article]
Titre : Synergistic effects of taurine and caffeine on regulation of the hair cycle : composition of bioactives against premature hair loss Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Welss, Auteur ; Melanie Giesen, Auteur ; Thorsten Knappe, Auteur ; Melanie Briese, Auteur ; Philipp Spuhler, Auteur ; Dirk Petersohn, Auteur ; Thomas Förster, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 81-87 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie
Caféine
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Produits capillaires
TaurineIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair is an attribute of health, youth and attractiveness. Therefore, premature hair loss often is indicative for the well-being of the affected persons. The focus of this study was to identify bioactive substances which counteract premature hair loss by targeted support of the anagen phase of the hair cycle. Therefore, we implemented a test strategy comprising a novel three-dimensional organotypic tissue model of the human dermal papilla for in vitro screening purpose and a noninvasive method to validate the effects in vivo. In the screening approach physiological changes after stimulation with caffeine, taurine or combinations of both were described by analyzing the gene expression of typical anagen and catagen markers (HGF and GFBP-3) as well as the release of the anagen associated growth factor HGF. These results revealed synergistic effects of caffeine and taurine in terms of anagen-stimulatory processes assuming an elongation of the anagen phase. This was additionally supported by analyzing changes in the molecular profiles of anagen-associated HGF protein release and catagen-associated IGFBP-3 gene expression in the plucked hair follicle in vivo after using products containing the active combination. Both methods support the assumption that combination of caffeine and taurine in a hair care composition positively influences hair growth and reduces premature hair loss. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Preparation of the reconstructed human dermal papilla - Formulation assisting software toolkit (FAST) - Cytotoxicity in vitro - Differential gene expression - Protein analysis
- RESULTS : Design of experiment - Analysis of cytotoxicity - Analysis of differential gene expression in vitro - Protein analysis in vitro - Evaluation of molecular profile in vivoPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14956
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012) . - p. 81-87[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 13909 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Taking a regenerative approach to hair growth / Masakazu Hashimoto in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)
[article]
Titre : Taking a regenerative approach to hair growth Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Masakazu Hashimoto, Auteur ; Ryo Nishiyama, Auteur ; Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Auteur ; Ichimaru Pharcos, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 55-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Etudes cliniques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Follicule pileux
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits capillaires
Régénération (biologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair loss is an issue that relates to both men and women of all ages. Recent studies for hair growth are being conducted on dermal papilla and there have been several pathways that have been identified such as the Wnt signalling pathway.
RSPO1 is one of the recent novel proteins required for organ development, and is secreted from dermal papilla cells in the hair follicle. It has two functions - a promoter role and a protector role in the hair cycle. Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract, a novel hair growth ingredient increases RSPO1 secretion from the derma papilla, and binds to the outer root sheath to promote hair follicle growth, and also neutralises the hair loss factor Dickkopf-related protein 1 (DKK1) to protect hair growth. The result of in vitro, ex vivo, and human clinical trial confirmed the efficacy of the special processed Nasturtium officinaleLeaf/Stem Extract (commercially known as ‘Burgeon-Up’) to effectively promote hair growth through RSPO1 enhancement.Note de contenu : - Focusing on RSPO1
- Enhancing RSPO1
- Suppression of DKK1 secretion
- Hair follicle elongation ex vivo
- Human clinical trial
- Fig. 1 : RSPOA action site in human hair
- Fig. 2 : RSPO1 enhancing Wnt activity
- Fig. 3 : Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract promoting RSPO1 secretion
- Fig. 4 : Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract promoting DKK1 secretion
- Fig. 5 : Elongation of human hair follicle (ex vivo) by Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract
- Fig. 6 : Hair parameters of the clinical study volunteers
- Fig. 7 : Phototrichogram analysis of an active group volunteer at 0 month and 3 months
- Fig. 8 : Visual change of hair volume from a 51 year old volunteer from 0 month, 3 months and 6 monthsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TLk_VI8x2MFgIgib_wR9NXqI_0SPOQBx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34280
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 55-58[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21749 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition / Romain Duroux in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)
[article]
Titre : Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Romain Duroux, Auteur ; Vincent Baillif, Auteur ; Fabien Havas, Auteur ; Morgane Farge, Auteur ; Alban Maurin, Auteur ; Thierry Suère, Auteur ; Emeline VanGoethem, Auteur ; Joan Attia, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 614-624 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires
Antioxydants
Barrière cutanée
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : A critical and often-overlooked factor that may give rise to dandruff and oily hair is the intrinsic quality of the scalp stratum corneum (SC), which is often unbalanced and susceptible to external aggressions. Addressing the inflammation element of unhealthy scalp plays an important role in promoting healthy-looking and feeling hair. Although specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) have been studied in the skin to end the inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration, no studies have been provided in the scalp. This study aims to investigate SPMs expression and its role in improving scalp integrity and consequently improving hair appearance using an Anetholea anisita extract.
- METHODS : The effect of Anetholea anisita extract was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties by fluorescence staining and ELISA, respectively. Ex vivo measurement of the volume of human scalp sebaceous glands was performed using X-ray microtomography (micro-CT). The extract was then clinically tested on a population of dandruff sufferers presenting oily hair. Volunteers' sebum was collected on the scalp and analysed by LC–MS/MS or ELISA to identify SPMs and pro-inflammatory markers. Scalp integrity was assessed by measuring the pH and the TEWL. Sebum production, dandruff and hair gloss were also evaluated.
- RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in HFDPC. Interestingly, this extract also decreased the volume of sebaceous glands as revealed by micro-CT. This result was confirmed in vivo by a decrease in sebum production in volunteers. Moreover, SPMs were analysed and detected in the scalp for the first time. An increase in Lipoxin B4 (LxB4) and Resolvin D1 and D2 (RvD1 and RvD2) was observed after Anetholea anisita treatment as well as decrease in pro-inflammatory sebum mediators expression such as PGE2, LTB4 and IL-8. Consequently, the scalp barrier was reinforced as observed through improved transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH, reducing dandruff and improving hair health.
- CONCLUSION : The present results suggest the potential of cosmetic applications of Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp health by targeting inflammation pathways to decrease dandruff and improve hair condition.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - In vitro cell studies - Ex vivo study - Clinical trial
- RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract decreases oxidative stress and inflammation in HFDPC cultures - Anetholea anisita extract decreases the volume of sebaceous glands from scalp - Anetholea anisita extract clinically decreases pro-inflammatory markers and increases SPMs in scalp sebum - Anetholea anisita extract clinically improves scalp condition and decreases dandruff
- Table 1 : Clinical trial formulationsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12813 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w3tBFMwD4mmgtIGsOpjfcLJw4_DrCVt1/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38386
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 614-624[article]The anti-oxidative effect of HALS amino silicones / Luziano Froes in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 2 (02/2023)
[article]
Titre : The anti-oxidative effect of HALS amino silicones Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luziano Froes, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 31-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amino-silicones
Antioxydants
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Détoxication métabolique d'une substance
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits après-shampooings
Produits capillaires
Soins de beauté masculinsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We discovered that HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) silicone molecules provide excellent hair conditioning and sensory features typically seen with amino functional silicone with added antioxidant benefit for improved skin health. This ingredient could help formulators create products with multiple benefits that are sure to resonate with health-conscious male consumers. Note de contenu : - Male hair and scalp health
- What are antioxidants ?
- Antioxidant effect of hindered amine light stabilizer (HALS) siliconeThe study
- Results
- Table : Detoxifying rinse-off conditioner with Mirasil ADMH 395En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B-xox_7zMtEMe7shzCi5AVf625yFYwEZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38856
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 2 (02/2023) . - p. 31-33[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The importance of hairstyle and hair care for human dignity / Isabel Keidel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 1/2 (01-02/2022)
PermalinkThe natural-based way of hair conditioning / Juntao Xia in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 1 (02/2014)
PermalinkThe senior hair care market : active ingredients for healthy scalp & hair / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)
PermalinkThe seven types of natural hair styling products / Lorraine Dallmeier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)
PermalinkTo dye for ! - A natural colouration booster / Emina Besic Gyenge in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
PermalinkPermalinkTransforming a botanical with sub-critical water / Cristina Bonell in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 3 (03/2022)
PermalinkPermalinkUpcycled active for hair greying prevention / Katharina Kappler in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 4 (04/2023)
PermalinkVisual methods demonstrate colour protection / Lidia Kulcsar in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
PermalinkVu sur les Salons en 2004 / Caroline Chavigny in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 180 (12/2004)
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