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Meadowfoam seed oil as a natural dispersing agent for colorants in lipstick / Briana Maktabi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)
[article]
Titre : Meadowfoam seed oil as a natural dispersing agent for colorants in lipstick Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Briana Maktabi, Auteur ; Matthew W. Liberatore, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 484-493 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Cosmétiques
Couleur
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Huiles et graisses végétales
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Limnanthe et constituants
Maquillage
Rouges à lèvres
StatistiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Green and sustainable trends are growing and with that the demand for naturally derived ingredients is rising. Dispersing agents are essential components of lipsticks due to their ability to wet pigment particles, reduce agglomerates and prevent re-agglomeration by stabilizing pigment particles. In this study, meadowfoam seed oil was evaluated as a pigment-dispersing agent for lipsticks and compared with castor oil and octyldodecanol.
- Methods : Dispersions of Red 7 Lake were formulated with 20, 30 and 40% solid content using castor oil, octyldodecanol or meadowfoam seed oil. Particle size, viscosity, spreadability, wetting, oil absorption and colour were measured. Four of the nine dispersions were then formulated into lipsticks, including all the 30% pigment dispersions and the 40% dispersion with meadowfoam seed oil. Lipsticks were tested for hardness, pay-off, friction, rheology, colour and stability for 4 weeks.
- Results : Average particle size was between 6 and 9 µm across the dispersions. The castor oil dispersions were more viscous, stickier and harder to spread than the other dispersions. The wetting contact angle was very low for all three dispersing agents, indicating that all of the oils wet the pigment well. The lipsticks varied in hardness, as expected, based on differences in the viscosity of the dispersing agents, and oil absorption of the powder. Red 7 Lake absorbed the highest amount of castor oil, which contributed to higher stick hardness. The castor oil lipstick and the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment were the hardest and most elastic. The octyldodecanol lipstick was the softest. Friction was the lowest for the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment, while pay-off was the highest for the octyldodecanol lipstick. The colour of the lipsticks as a stick and after being spread on paper was very similar.
- Conclusion : While the chemical composition and physicochemical properties of the dispersing agents were different, all three dispersing agents studied formed dispersions and lipsticks with appropriate characteristics. Meadowfoam seed oil's performance was qualitatively and quantitatively similar to castor oil and octyldodecanol. By modifying the amount of pigment and dispersing agent used, lipsticks that have similar characteristics to commercial products can be formulated.Note de contenu : - Materials
- Methods—Pigment dispersions
- Methods—Lipsticks
- Results—Pigment dispersions
- Results—Part II : Lipsticks
- Table 1 : Red 7 Lake dispersions made in this study
- Table 2 : Lipstick formula
- Table 3 : Firmness, stickiness, viscosity and colour of the dispersions
- Table 4 : Viscosity of dispersing agents, oil absorption of Red 7 Lake and contact angle (n = 3)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12724 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uzbFy-4hbz4dUPtJe5ucx5OikMeTIXJ9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36684
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 484-493[article]More than just lubricants / Lutz Matthies in KUNSTSTOFFE INTERNATIONAL, Vol. 103, N° 11 (11/2013)
[article]
Titre : More than just lubricants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lutz Matthies, Auteur ; Falko Preusser, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 76-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Cires
Lubrifiants
Matières plastiques -- Additifs
NucléationIndex. décimale : 668.4 Plastiques, vinyles Résumé : Montan waxes serve variously in the plastics processing industry as lubricants, nucleating agents and dispersing agents. They owe this versatility to special properties conferred by their chemical structure. Obtained from fossilized vegetation, the waxes are in demande for applications requiring low viscosity. Note de contenu : - Long-term availability
- External and internal lubrication
- Montan waxes as nucleating and dispersing agentsPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20493
in KUNSTSTOFFE INTERNATIONAL > Vol. 103, N° 11 (11/2013) . - p. 76-77[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 15764 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature / Philippe Maréchal in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)
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Titre : A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Maréchal, Auteur ; Nathalie Loubat-Bouleuc, Auteur ; M. Villedieu, Auteur ; Fabien Merlaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ester d'estolide
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène
Matériaux filmogènes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polymères -- Biodégradation
Polymères -- Synthèse
Produits hydratants
shampooings
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The use of cosmetics is connected to soul and body; with an increasing desire for sustainability. As an answer, several types of estolides were synthetized by ingredient manufacturers, starting from vegetable fatty acids. Two main ways of synthesis of these intermolecular esters can be considered, depending on the raw materials.
We developed a new estolide ester, based on castor oil, engineered with as few transformations as possible, showing a great versatility in applications for cosmetic formulators, and a high degree of Naturality. The performances of this innovative polymer ingredient, dedicated to haircare, skincare, and lipcare, were screened through a sensorial panel and instruments.
Our estolide ester brings a broad range of properties as texturizing or film-forming agent, and moisturizer. It also shows interesting values as a pigment disperser. During application on hairs, skin, or lips, this ester of estolide will give high protective properties from air pollution.
The ingredient we tuned showed to be fully biodegradable, and its NOI (Natural Origin Index) is 87%.
Our commitment to Naturality determined our scientific approach, and our technology allowed us to manufacture this ester of estolide with unique performances and a reduced environmental footprint.Note de contenu : - General ideas about estolides
- Estolide esters for innovation
- Versatility in applications
- Fig. 1 : General scheme for esterification following the Fisher's mechanism
- Fig. 2 : General chemical patern for an estolide : m1+m2 ⩾ 2 , n ⩾ 0, and R, a carbon chain of any type, short or long, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, functionalized or not...
- Fig. 3 : Estolide formation from oleic acids
- Fig. 4 : estolide formation from 12-hydroxystearic acid
- Fig. 5 : Reaction of capping of a estolide chain, by a stearic acid
- Fig. 6 : Formation of an estolide ester through the reaction of an ethylhexyl alcohol
- Fig. 7 : DUB ESTOLINE chemical structure
- Fig. 8 : Sensory profile of DUB ESTOLINE in comparison with phytosqualane test on framework formulaat 15%, internal panel of 10, with a defined protocol application on forearm
- Fig. 9 : Measurement of the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) on the forearm of 10 volunteers with a cream containing 5% test substance
- Fig. 10 : Measurement of hydration on the stratum corneum with a corneometer after treatment with a cream containing 5% test substance
- Fig. 11 : Quantization of carbonyl residues in skin explants treated with a cream containing 5% ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate
- Fig. 12 : Binding ability of DUB ESTOLINE, another binder containing castor oil derivatives and another ester
- Table 1 : Spectrum of application properties in cosmetics of estolides and estolide esters, reviewed in literature
- Table 2 : Composition of the framework formula used in sensory tests. Test substance : vegetable oil, phytosqualane, estolide ester
- Table 3 : Composition of the O/W model emulsion used in efficiency tests in skin care. Test substance : vegetable oil, hydrocarbon, estolide ester
- Table 4 : Composition of the shampoo used for thehair care tests. Test substance : estolide ester, dimethicone
- Table 5 : Evolution of the weights of tresses after treatments with model shampoos
- Table 6 : Composition of the foundation formulation used for compaction testsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gzskXdzZwMMhVHalGbt2oHe9YUX1O8Ig/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32033
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019) . - p. 36-44[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20809 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 20688 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 20697 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible New polymeric dispersant technology for universal colourants / D. Cartridge in SURFACE COATINGS INTERNATIONAL, Vol. 92, 3 (06/2009)
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Titre : New polymeric dispersant technology for universal colourants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : D. Cartridge, Auteur Année de publication : 2009 Article en page(s) : p. 107-112 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Colorants
Polymères
RevêtementsIndex. décimale : 667.9 Revêtements et enduits Résumé : Due to legislative pressure to eliminate alkyl phenol ethoxylates from general use and the new restrictions on the VOC content of decorative coatings, the reformulation of universal colourants has become a priority for specialist producers and paint manufacturers over the last three to five years. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I9axUYO7sde5uOkSd4sXj6yplRmdyGSQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=6462
in SURFACE COATINGS INTERNATIONAL > Vol. 92, 3 (06/2009) . - p. 107-112[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 011716 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Next generation polyurethane / Stefan Mößmer in POLYMERS PAINT COLOUR JOURNAL - PPCJ, Vol. 198, N° 4528 (09/2008)
[article]
Titre : Next generation polyurethane Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Mößmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 22-26 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Haut extrait sec
Polyuréthanes
Revêtements -- Additifs:Peinture -- Additifs
Stabilisants (chimie)Index. décimale : 667.9 Revêtements et enduits Résumé : The author discusses the development of Disperbyk-2155, which provides a high molecular weight for stabilisation and solids content.
Due to its innovative sphere-like structure, Disperbyl-2155 combines high molecular weight with high solids content, therefore opening up new horizons in the wetting and dispersing of pigments in high solid as weel as in conventional coating systems. It displays outstanding deflocculation and stabilisation properties, effectively reducing mill base viscosity, is storage-stable and shows wide compatibility with many different types of resin systems. The next generation polyurethane wetting and dispersing additive Disperbyk-2155 is designed to be used in pigment concentrates for automotive coatings, floor coatings (based on polyurethane and epoxy), polyurethane foams and thanks to its 100% solids content also for solvent-free UV systems. In addition, the additive has been successfully used in co-grinding systems.Note de contenu : - Pigment stabilisation in high solid systems
- Results in white reductionsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b6nLKkDdYUjRyR1YEqXsXKH1kbBWy73S/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27614
in POLYMERS PAINT COLOUR JOURNAL - PPCJ > Vol. 198, N° 4528 (09/2008) . - p. 22-26[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 010736 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible PermalinkNonionic surfactants and dispersants for biopolishing and stonewashing with Hypocrea jecorina cellulases / Luana Zilz in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 129, N° 1 (02/2013)
PermalinkPermalinkNovel amine functional dispersant for use with high performance pigments in solventborne formulations / John Hughes in POLYMERS PAINT COLOUR JOURNAL - PPCJ, Vol. 203, N° 4586 (07/2013)
PermalinkNovel dispersants / Dave Haddleton in POLYMERS PAINT COLOUR JOURNAL - PPCJ, Vol. 195, N° 4485 (02/2005)
PermalinkOptimising pigment distribution / Immanuel Willerich in EUROPEAN COATINGS JOURNAL (ECJ), N° 5 (05/2018)
PermalinkPermalinkPeak performance, solvent-based dispersing agents for Cu-phthalocyanine pigments / Manfred Jorna in POLYMERS PAINT COLOUR JOURNAL - PPCJ, Vol. 203, N° 4591 (12/2013)
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PermalinkPermalinkPigment dispersion : principles you should know / M. Veeramani in PAINTINDIA, Vol. LXXIII, N° 6 (06/2023)
PermalinkPermalinkPigment stabilisation / Stefan Möβmer in POLYMERS PAINT COLOUR JOURNAL - PPCJ, Vol. 196, N° 4507 (12/2006)
PermalinkPolydécènes hydrogénés multifonctionnel in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 161 (11/2001)
PermalinkPolymeric dispersants and scale inhibitors / V. C. Malshe in PAINTINDIA, Vol. LX, N° 1 (01/2010)
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