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Skin microbiota and claims substantiation / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)
[article]
Titre : Skin microbiota and claims substantiation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 75-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Justification de l'allégation
MicrobioteIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skinobs offer advice on how to evaluate cosmetic activity on the microbiome and also collate a range of expert industry views on the topic.
The evaluation of the effect of dermocosmetics or active products on the skin microbiota is evolving into more and more complex models. And yet, these never reach the sophistication of the ecosystem of the bacterial biofilm of the skin. In addition, it is now known that the skin microbiome is subject to intra-individual variations depending on the body areas and inter-individual according to genetic, intrinsic, and environmental factors.Note de contenu : - A complex ecosystem deeply linked to the skin homeostasis
- Microbiota claims : the era of a new revolution for cosmetics ?
- How to evaluate cosmetics activity on the skin microbiota ?
- Combining expert's views on clinical evaluation perspectives
- In vitro expert's view of the proof-of-concept
- The future of skin microbiota evaluationPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36604
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 75-77[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22883 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Sunscreens can preserve human skin microbiome upon erythemal UV exposure / Rolf Schuetz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)
[article]
Titre : Sunscreens can preserve human skin microbiome upon erythemal UV exposure Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rolf Schuetz, Auteur ; Joshua Claypool, Auteur ; Riccardo Sfriso, Auteur ; Vollhardt Juergen H., Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 71-84 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Etudes cliniques
Justification de l'allégation
Microbiologie
Microbiote cutané
Peau -- Anatomie
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau noire -- Physiologie
Produits antisolaires
Protection contre le rayonnement ultravioletIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a known environmental key factor for premature skin ageing. Only few scientific evidence is available to support the effects of UVR on the skin microbiome. This in vivo pilot study aimed to evaluate the impact on the skin microbiome upon erythemal UV exposure and the protection of UV-exposed skin microbiome by UV filters.
- Methods : Ten female volunteers were treated with an sun protection factor (SPF) 20 sunscreen and placebo formulation (without UV filters) on their upper middle backs and irradiated with an erythemal dose (2 MED) by a solar simulator. Skin swabbing samples from four zones (i.e., unexposed, exposed, sunscreen- and placebo-treated on exposed skin) were collected for the microbiome analysis before and 2 h after UV exposure, respectively, and processed via shallow 16S rRNA Amplicon and Shotgun metagenomic sequencing. An in vitro UV method was developed to confirm the protection of isolated bacterial strains by single UV filters and combinations.
- Results : Alpha diversity was impacted by significant inter-individual differences and by treatment rather than by irradiation. Cutibacterium acnes was found to be the most abundant and a confounding factor for diversity. On a species level, Lactobacillus crispatus was negatively associated with UVR and placebo treatment, whereas there was a positive association with sunscreen treatment. The sunscreen treatment also favoured an interaction network with central Micrococcus genus. The in vitro results showed that both single UV filters and combinations had specific effects on the survival rates of L. crispatus, C. acnes, and Staphylococcus epidermidis.
- Conclusion : We identified potential microorganisms and bacterial interactions that were associated with an SPF 20 sunscreen treatment. The specific protection of L. crispatus as a key player in the UV-exposed skin microbiome and reduction of C. acnes population by UV filters might lead to new cosmetic concepts for photoprotection.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Clinical test products - Human study design - Skin microbiome sampling - DNA extraction - 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing - Illumina shotgun sequencing and data processing - Alignment-based filtering (Illumina) - Canonical correspondence analysis (CCA) - Songbird - Spiec-Easi : Microbial interactions - In vitro UV model
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Clinical study results - 16S sequencing results - Diversity - Differential ranking analysis - Interaction network - Metagenomics - In vitro UV model with isolated bacteriaDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12910 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17ySV5EMMh2OIbzqRLOQowy6BGvVyGcWk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40580
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 71-84[article]The alkaloid centcyamine increases expression of klotho and lamin B1, slowing the onset of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo / Sophie Abadie in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021)
[article]
Titre : The alkaloid centcyamine increases expression of klotho and lamin B1, slowing the onset of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sophie Abadie, Auteur ; Claire Leduc, Auteur ; Karl Lintner, Auteur ; Philippe Bedos, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 561-572 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Centcyamine
Génétique
Justification de l'allégation
Peau -- Physiologie
ProtéomiqueLa protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à -dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données.
Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité.
Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances.
La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine.
La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia)
VieillissementIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Klotho is a protein known for its beneficial effects on longevity. Centcyamine is an alkaloid present in certain plants whose extracts have an anti-inflammatory effect. Skin fibroblasts are essential to the formation and structure of the dermis.
- Objective : Centcyamine is an indole-based alkaloid composed of coumaric acid, a resveratrol precursor and methoxytryptamine, which can be both a precursor, or a derivative, of melatonin. Given these building blocks and their well-known bioactivities, it was of interest to explore the potential benefits of using this aryl-alkaloid, in cosmetic skincare applications.
- Methods : We tested cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) in vitro to observe how supplementation with centcyamine improves properties of the cells to counteract the effect of ageing. The expression of genes and proteins of interest was quantified. The effect on doubling time and cell function was evaluated following treatment of the cells over several replication cycles. Skin firmness, red spot index and skin isotropy were measured with Dynaskin®, Visia® and Primos® equipment, respectively, and compared over two months in a vehicle-controlled clinical trial on 60 persons.
- Results : Centcyamine activates the expression of the gene KL and the related protein Klotho in dermal fibroblasts. Moreover, centcyamine slows the replicative ageing process of fibroblasts in culture. These cells retain cellular functions identical to those of young cells: the synthesis of lamin B1, a crucial regulatory protein of proliferation, as well as of collagen I and elastin is retained in aged cells. The clinical data are shown to improve skin isotropy in a majority of subjects, to reduce the red spot intensity and to maintain skin firmness in the treated group vs. the vehicle.
- Conclusion : The alkaloid centcyamine induces changes in the metabolism of the ageing process of human dermal fibroblasts. The up-to-now unobserved implication of both Klotho and lamin B1 to maintain homeostasis of the skin opens new venues for the prevention of age-related changes in skin structure. The in vitro and clinical data, while not demonstrated to be causally related, converge towards a common goal of skin repair and slower ageing processes.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Effect of centcyamine on fibroblasts - Effect of centcyamine on replicative ageing of fibroblasts - Clinical trial - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Gene array - Protein synthesis - Cell proliferation and function - Clinical trial
- Table 1 : Centcyamine modulates gene expression in dermal fibroblast : qPCR on NHDF after 24h of Centcyamine treatmentDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12731 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DV4r7r8Kf2HRANTGmjL83vBpp5JhohVc/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36860
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 561-572[article]The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence / K. Kennedy in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)
[article]
Titre : The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : K. Kennedy, Auteur ; R. Cal, Auteur ; R. Casey, Auteur ; C. Lopez, Auteur ; A. Adelfio, Auteur ; B. Molloy, Auteur ; A. M. Wall, Auteur ; T. A. Holton, Auteur ; N. Khaldi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 388-398 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Composés organiques -- Synthèse
Dermo-cosmétologie
Elisa, TestLe test ELISA est une méthode de laboratoire qualifiée d'immuno-enzymatique. Il s'agit d'un test immunologique, car il a pour principal objectif de mettre en évidence la présence d'anticorps ou d'antigènes spécifiques à une pathologie, dans un échantillon de sang. Cet examen utilise une protéine appelée enzyme, qui va se fixer à certains constituants spécifiques de la maladie, et par repérage et quantification de cette enzyme, la maladie pourra être affirmée, ainsi que son intensité évaluée.
Génétique
Intelligence artificielle
Justification de l'allégation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
Protéines
ProtéomiqueLa protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à -dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données.
Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité.
Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances.
La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine.
La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, using an artificial intelligence (AI) approach, we identified peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), a naturally occurring, unmodified peptide with ECM stimulatory properties. The AI-predicted anti-ageing properties of pep_RTE62G were then validated through in vitro, ex vivo and proof of concept clinical testing.
- Methods : A deep learning approach was applied to unlock pep_RTE62G from a plant source, Pisum sativum (pea). Cell culture assays of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were subsequently used to evaluate the in vitro effect of pep_RTE62G. Distinct activities such as cell proliferation and ECM protein production properties were determined by ELISA assays. Cell migration was assessed using a wound healing assay, while ECM protein synthesis and gene expression were analysed, respectively, by immunofluorescence microscopy and PCR. Immunohistochemistry of human skin explants was employed to further investigate the induction of ECM proteins by pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Finally, the clinical effect of pep_RTE626 was evaluated in a proof of concept 28-day pilot study.
- Results : In vitro testing confirmed that pep_RTE62G is an effective multi-functional anti-ageing ingredient. In HaCaTs, pep_RTE62G treatment significantly increases both cellular proliferation and migration. Similarly, in HDFs, pep_RTE62G consistently induced the neosynthesis of ECM protein elastin and collagen, effects that are upheld in human skin explants. Lastly, in our proof of concept clinical study, application of pep_RTE626 over 28 days demonstrated anti-wrinkle and collagen stimulatory potential.
- Conclusion : pep_RTE62G represents a natural, unmodified peptide with AI-predicted and experimentally validated anti-ageing properties. Our results affirm the utility of AI in the discovery of novel, functional topical ingredients.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Deep learning : classifier training and peptide prediction - Cell culture - BrdU cell proliferation assay - Scratch wound assay - Elastin and hydroxyproline ELISA - RNA Isolation and real-time QPCR - Immunofluorescence staining - Human skin explants - Statistics - Pilot human clinical study
- RESULTS : A peptide from the pea proteome with anti-ageing potential - Pep_RTE62G stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and migration - Pep_RTE62G induces the production of the ECM proteins - ECM protein stimulation capacity of pep_RTE62G is upheld ex vivo - pep_RTE62G suggests clinical anti-ageing effectsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12635 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rZMFrbwynbE27D_nfWjee7As_m8Xb_7d/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35290
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 388-398[article]The skin's microbiome : Establishing a quality seal for cosmetics & consumer expectations / M. Brandt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 6 (06/2023)
[article]
Titre : The skin's microbiome : Establishing a quality seal for cosmetics & consumer expectations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Brandt, Auteur ; K. Unbereit, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation
Certification
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Cosmétiques
Justification de l'allégation
Labels
Microbiome cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Quality seals being precisely defined, transparent and validated could help consumers in their decision making. This applies particularly for new categories of cosmetics e.g. those related to the human skin microbiome
The knowledge on the human skin’s microbiome grows rapidly and a huge number of cosmetic products with ‘microbiome’ claims are now seen on the global market.
Developing a credible and valid quality seal for supporting approved claims on skin microbiome is challenging.
Here we propose standards for a quality seal for cosmetic products claiming to be ‘microbiome friendly’.
We assume that such a claim can be made if: there is no significant change in microbial diversity as measured by e.g. the Shannon Index and there is also no significant dissimilarity between untreated and treated skin as measured by main component analysis (e.g. Unifrac distances); Also, it should be controlled that there is no strong increase or decrease in the abundance of single microbe genera. Further, evaluation of the skin in terms of clinical safety, skin pH and barrier integrity should also be performed.Note de contenu : - Consumer expectations
- Skin microbiome uniqueness
- Skin microbiome - The bad, good, and ugly
- Characterisation of the skin microbiome - Parameters and indices
- Establishing a quality microbiome seal
- Making cosmetic claims - Compliance and validationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcyDlKoUeQJnFaVgFs7Hxn6d22h4urIl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39588
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24111 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Ultraviolet transmission microscopy for the imaging of topical sunscreen emulsions in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)
PermalinkUnderstanding humectant behaviour through their water-holding properties / Jonathan M. Crowther in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021)
PermalinkA validated photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles and its application in evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product in a split-face randomized clinical trial / M. M. O'Mahony in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)
PermalinkVideo-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance / Emilie Yokoyama in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)
PermalinkWater in cosmetics and Caenorhabditis elegans as an alternative model for lifespan assessment / Myriam Richaud in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)
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