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Peau resynchronisée pour un bien-être retrouvé / Julie Droux in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (11/2018)
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Titre : Peau resynchronisée pour un bien-être retrouvé Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julie Droux, Auteur ; Amandine Werle, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 278-282 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Clarté de la peau
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Lumière bleue
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Rythmes circadiensIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Rythme de vie (trop) intense, stress ou encore pollution digitale générée par la lumière bleue des écrans dérèglent notre horloge biologique, appelée rythme circadien. Le bien-être de la peau en est directement affecté : le teint devient terne et des signes de fatigue excessifs apparaissent... Plongeons au coeur du rythme circadien, mécanisme essentiel contrôlant le bien-être de notre peau, pour comprendre comment le protéger. Note de contenu : - Rythme circadien : notre horloge interne
- Mécanisme cellulaire du rythme circadien
- Stress, l'ennemi du rythme circadien
- Vie moderne et lumière bleue
- Conséquences d'un rythme déréglé
- S'inspirer des plantes pour resynchroniser la peau
- Modèle unique de peau resynchronisée
- Bien-être cutané : teint lumineux et reposé
- Fig. 1 : Rythme circadien synchronisé et désynchronisé défini par les deux paramètres clés "période et amplitude"
- Fig. 2 : Effet des stress de la vie moderne sur la synchronisation du rythme circadien de la peau
- Fig. 3 : Contrôle du rythme circadien et diminution de l'effet néfaste de la lumière bleue comme dérégulateur majeur du cycle naturelEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IMg0pSO1ZurwI6k2q_Q4KfkQLpZY8oyc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31499
in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° Hors série (11/2018) . - p. 278-282[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20465 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Performance, safety and sustainability - All in tris-biphenyl triazine / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)
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Titre : Performance, safety and sustainability - All in tris-biphenyl triazine Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 8-15 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dioxyde de titane
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Lumière bleue
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique, Acide
Produits antisolaires
Protection cutanée
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau
Tris-biphényl triazineIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Disrupting changes in the suncare field that signal the avoidance of Octocrylene (OCR) and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC) in newer sunscreen developments express a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) and Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) are often used as replacements but the achievement of higher Sun Protection Factors (SPF) requires additional UVB filters. This paper aims to evaluate the benefits of using Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (TBPT) as additional UV filter in comparison to Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA) and Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) seeing that TBPT is organic like PBSA and particulate like TiO2. We measured the UV absorbance and photostability as product specific performance criteria, and evaluated the risk of the production of free radicals under UV exposure since this is closely linked to photostability and can impact the irritation potential of sunscreens. Their effect in market relevant UV filter combinations was further assessed in view of their contribution to SPF, UVA-PF, blue light protection, and water resistance. We evaluated the ocular acceptability of a sunscreen containing TBPT and proposed solutions for environmentally friendly sunscreens. In this contribution, we show the broadness of the benefits gained in using TBPT in the future production of sunscreens. As a whole, this work reveals the huge potential of TBPT in modern sunscreens. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : UV filters - UV absorbance - Photostability
- Table 1 : Properties of TBPT, PBSA and TiO2
- Table 2 : Composition of the products in the water resistance test
- Table 3 : Composition of the product assessed for oclar acceptability
- Table 4 : Free radicals (%) generated in the formulation after UV irradiation, n=2
- Table 5 : SPF in vivo and UVA-PF/SPF criterium
- Table 6 : Water resistance and blue light protection of PBSA versus TBPT containing sunscreens with SPF 30
- Table 7 : UF filter combinations (in % in finished formulation) fulfilling EcoSun Pass of at least 200 for SPF 20 to 50+ with UVA-PF/SPF > 1/3En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dH6ysH0nx8TS6Ahz4zkkZj1jzvW6zcMt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36183
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021) . - p. 8-15[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22840 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A personal Faraday shield for a radiant, high-tech world / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)
[article]
Titre : A personal Faraday shield for a radiant, high-tech world Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 63-69 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caroténoides Les caroténoïdes sont des pigments plutôt orange et jaune répandus chez de très nombreux organismes vivants. Liposolubles, ils sont en général facilement assimilables par les organismes. Ils appartiennent à la famille chimiques des terpénoïdes, formés à partir de la polymérisation d'unités isoprènes à structure aliphatique ou alicyclique. Il est généralement admis qu'ils suivent des voies métaboliques similaires à celles des lipides. Ils sont synthétisés par toutes les algues, toutes les plantes vertes et par de nombreux champignons et bactéries (dont les cyanobactéries).
Cosmétiques
Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques
Lumière bleue
Peau -- Propriétés optiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Protection cutanée
Rayonnement électronique
Rayonnements -- Effets physiologiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Radiation outside the UV-range is one of the most unexplored threats for our skin. For sure, we protect ourselves against UV light but forget the high-energy visible light fraction. However, not only blue light increases the ROS load in keratinocytes leading to skin barrier damage and premature skin ageing. Our modem, highly connected world with permanent access to the internet and communication devices emits a tremendous amount of radiation. A large fraction is WiFi radiation in the range of microwaves. To protect our cell membranes and skin barrier, we need anti-oxidants active in the depth of the membranes to prevent deep lipid peroxidation, followed by functional impairment of these structures. Radicare®-Gold is the skin's personal Faraday shield made from natural carotenoids to reduce the ROS load provoked from any source. Note de contenu : - DIGITAL SKIN AGEING IN THE MODERN WORLD : The balance of intrinsic ROS-production and elimination - The skin's own 'Faraday shield' - Carotenoids : the perfect natural solution
- METHODS
- RESULTS : T. obliquus carotenoids absorb HEV light - T. obliquus carotenoids alleviate cellular oxidative stress - T. obliquus carotenoids reduce WiFi-induced oxidative stress - T. obliquus carotenoids reduces lipid peroxidation and strenghten the skin barrierEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kFVvg_TH8xUoWKcqZx7fI4tfz69f-F52/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32236
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 63-69[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20796 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them / Remo Campiche in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)
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Titre : Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; S. J. Curpen, Auteur ; V. Lutchmanen-Kolanthan, Auteur ; Sarah Gougeon, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; G. Laurent, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; R. Schuetz, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 399-406 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues d'eau douce
Biomolécules actives
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques
Lumière bleue
Nicotinamide
Pigmentation, Troubles de la
StatistiqueIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad-spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation in vivo.
Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED-based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients.
- Method : We conducted a randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm−2, 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers’ inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation.
- Results : We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = -16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post-irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide.
- Conclusion : Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light-induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test compounds - Blue light source - Clinical study design - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Blue light‐induced changes in skin chromophores - Blue light‐induced changes in skin colour
- Table 1 : Formulations used in this studyDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12637 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LwcZLPEyAn7hYOz0vljrQ_rPWJ1WpkLk/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35291
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 399-406[article]Preparation of polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide pigment and its use in blue light-curable ink / Chenlong Wang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 137, N° 4 (12/07/2021)
[article]
Titre : Preparation of polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide pigment and its use in blue light-curable ink Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chenlong Wang, Auteur ; Kai Yan, Auteur ; Xun Luo, Auteur ; Shulan Jin, Auteur ; Lili Wang, Auteur ; Jun Luo, Auteur ; Jinhuan Zheng, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 348-360 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Copolymère uréthane acrylate
Dioxyde de titane
Encre
Lumière bleue
Photoréticulation
Pigments -- Synthèse
Potentiel zeta
Rhéologie
Solidité de la couleur
Taille des particulesIndex. décimale : 667.2 Colorants et pigments Résumé : Polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide was used to prepare blue light-curable inks as both a white pigment to replace the original white pigment and as an oligomer. The polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide was fabricated using a two-step method. In the first step, the titanium dioxide was grafted with γ-aminopropyltriethoxy silane, and the grafting process was studied. Second, amino-modified titanium dioxide was used to prepare polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide, which was then used to configure the blue light-curable polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide ink. Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy indicated that the amino-modified titanium dioxide and polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide were prepared successfully. The content of the amino groups on the surface of the amino-modified titanium dioxide could be effectively controlled by adjusting the pH value. Moreover, by increasing the content of the amino groups, the viscosity decreased and the photopolymerisation efficiency increased, which was attributed to the formation of branched structures and the promoting effect of the amino groups on the titanium dioxide. The inks with decreased viscosity and branched structures displayed excellent cross-linking properties: viscoelastic transition was achieved within 10 seconds and the final moduli were in the range of 36-55 kPa. The cross-linking degree and rate were more than seven times those of unmodified ink. The ranges of elongation and stress were 95%-165% and 1.9-4.3 MPa, respectively, and the amino group content varied from 0% to 0.101%. In general, polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide was shown to be suitable for blue light-curable ink. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Preparation of amino-modified titanium dioxide - Preparation of polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide - Preparation of the blue-light-curable polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide ink - Preparation of the blue light-curable polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide composite films - Characteristics of amino group content on the surface of titanium dioxide - FT-IR - Particle size and zeta potential - Rheological performance of the blue light-curable polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide ink - Photo-rheological performance of the blue light-curable polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide ink - Tensile properties of the blue light-curable polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide composite films - Measurement of colour fastness to crocking
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation of amino-modified titanium dioxide - Properties of polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide - Properties of blue light-curable polyurethane acrylate-based titanium dioxide ink and film
- Table 1 : Effect of APS concentration on the particle size of original and modified titanium dioxide
- Table 2 : Effect of reaction temperature on the particle size of original and modified titanium dioxide
- Table 3 : Effect of pH value on th eparticle size of original and modified titanium dioxideDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12532 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12532 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36099
in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 137, N° 4 (12/07/2021) . - p. 348-360[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22848 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Reproducible method for assessing the effects of blue light using in vitro human skin tissues / Rishabh Kala in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)
PermalinkPermalinkStrengthening natural protection against light / Sonia Léglise in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
PermalinkThe protective effect of a novel sunscreen against blue light Background and objective / Veronique Francois-Newton in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)
PermalinkUnlocking UV benefits and claims beyond SPF / Amy Huang in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 9 (10/2023)
PermalinkUV filters - Exploring the benefits beyond sunburn protection / Amy Huang in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 9 (09/2022)
PermalinkWell protected against multi-light and pollution / Solène Mine in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)
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