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Citrate esters in sunscreen formulations / Teresa Berninger in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 6 (06/2021)
[article]
Titre : Citrate esters in sunscreen formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Teresa Berninger, Auteur ; Carolin Stern, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Ulrich Issberner, Auteur ; Jochen Giesinger, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 27-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emollients
Esters de citrate
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Jungbunzlauer reveal the efficacy of their citrate ester emollients in providing benefits for sun care product development.
In sunscreen formulations, several components act synergistically to provide effective protection to the exposed skin. Alongside the UV filters themselves, emollients are particularly relevant to both effectiveness and consumer acceptance of the product. This is due to their influence on the solubility of solid organic UV filters, dispersibility of inorganic UV filters and skin feel of sunscreen products.Note de contenu : - Formulating sunscreens with organic UV filters
- Solubility and efficient use of organic UV filters
- Table 1 : Overview of properties of citrate esters
- Table 2 : Maximum solubility of UV filters BEMT, EHT and DHHB in different solvents
- Table 3 : Maximul solubility and regulatory limit of different UV filters in benchmark system (15% dibutyl adipate + 5% EHS) versus alternative system (15% tributyl citrate + 5% EHS). Usage rate refers to UV filter combination used to determine performance in silico. Solubility was calculated according to the following formula : amount solvent a* filter solubility in solvent A/100-filter solubility in solvent A) + amount solvent B* filter solubility in solvent B/(100-filter solublity in solvent B)
- Table 4 : Composition of test formulations used for SPF and UVA-PF in vitro determination and sensory profiling
- Table 5 : Composition of example sunscreen formulation with inorganic filters and triethyl citrate
- Fig. 1 : Comparison of extinction between benchmark system and alternative system. An increased extinction in the UVB range is observed in the alternative system with higher EHT content
- Fig. 2 : SPF and UVA-PF determined in vitro in different test formulations
- Fig. 3 : Sensory profiling of test formulations with different emollients (Tributyl Citrate vs. Triethyl Citrate vs. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate). Values are means of n = 8 panelists. Asterices denote attributes which were evaluated as differing significantly between test formulations
- Fig. 4 : Dispersibility of inorganic UV filters in different emollients. Scale bars denote 100 μm
- Fig. 5 : Sensory profiling of sunscreen with Triethyl Citrate compared to commercially available natural-certified benchmarks. Values are means of n = 10Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36117
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 6 (06/2021) . - p. 27-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22720 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible High SPF sunscreens that feel light on the skin / Brigitte Lindemann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)
[article]
Titre : High SPF sunscreens that feel light on the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brigitte Lindemann, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emollients
Facteur de protection solaire
Produits antisolaires
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tinosorb Lite Aqua is a cosmetic UV filter formulation that brings the oil-soluble, high performance and broad-spectrum UV filter Tinosorb S into the water phase. No other UV filter currently on the market provides broad-spectrum UV protection this effective in the water phase - without whitening effects and all while enabling water resistance. Potential applications include face care and sun care products for daily use. Tinosorb S lite Aqua helps manufacturers of sun care products cater for consumers who are looking for long-term protection against skin damage but who demand a product that feels light on the skin. Note de contenu : - Solubilizing BEMT in a polymer matrix
- Proof of concept
- Selection of emollients
- Enhancing water resistance
- Fig. 1 : Absorbance spectra of UV filters in solution, red : effective broad-spectrum BEMT
- Fig. 2 : Tinosorb S Lite Aqua boosts sun protection
- Fig. 3 : Choice of emollients with higher spreadability values and lighter sensory properties possible with Tinosorb S Lite Aqua
- Table 1 : SPF in vivo and UVA-PF in vitro results
- Table 2 : Choice of emollients in relation to UV filter BEMT in either oil or water phase
- Table 3 : SPF in vivo and WR in vitro and in vivo resultsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qXv_qU2b3AT29ZrrT2YGs1Z2Z67GzLID/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31089
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 26-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20515 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)
[article]
Titre : How to overcome the new challenges in sun-care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur ; Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement
Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinanamate
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement
Octocrylène
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreen producers and UV filter manufacturers are currently facing urgent challenges. On the one hand, the legal situation of two widely used UVB filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinanamate (EHMC) and Octocrylene (OCR) is unclear due to rising concerns on their safety for humans and the environment; on the other hand, the image of nano particulate UV filters is downgraded in the press and by digital apps questioning their safety profile without scientifically based evidence. Some producers pro-actively remove these UV filters from their new sunscreens' developments which is a real challenge in terms of performance achievement. This paper aims to provide UV filter system alternatives for developing efficient sunscreens without EHMC and OCR. Additionally, it clarifies the safety situation of nano-particulate UV filters and explains their usefulness in sunscreens, providing, however, UV filter system alternatives. Furthermore, this manuscript presents a calculation method to assess the impact of a UV filter combination on the environment and shows that it is possible to develop eco-sustainable sunscreens. Though, each restriction in the choice of UV filters will imply certain compromises. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Formulations for octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate free systems - Measurement of free radicals - Blue light transmittance measurements - Assessment of the EcoSun pass value
- RESULTS : Sunscreens without octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate - Nano particulate UV filters in sunscreens - Environmental impact of sunscreens
- Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of a) Photostable UVA and b) Partly stabilized UVA sunscreens ; irradiation performed as described in ISO24443:2012
- Fig. 2 : Specific UV extinction E (1,1) for different particle size of TBPT
- Table 1 : Investigated UV filter combinations for sunscreens without EHMC and OCR
- Table 2 : Maximum authorized concentration and status of European approved UV filters
- Table 3 : INCI, efficacy E (1,1) max and handling of alternative UVB filters in Europe
- Table 4 : SPF, UVA-PF, and generated free radicals (%) of DHHB or BMDBM based UV filter combinations
- Table 5 : Features of nano and some soluble registered UV filters
- Table 6 : UV combinations without nano filters for SPF 30, 50 and 50+ with a ratio UVA-PF/SPF of at least 1/3
- Table 7 : Ecosun Pass value and SPF of five UV filters combinationsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O3nEeRuS9ZgrfESGbXfMJxKbSBGJjGCi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34614
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21874 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)
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Titre : Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Analyse
Evaluation
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lumière bleue
Mesure
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Protection cutanée
Radicaux libres (chimie)
Rayonnement ultraviolet AIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The impact of UV-filter combination on the number of free radicals generated in sunscreen formulations and the skin following UV-VIS irradiation was assessed via electron spin resonance spectroscopy using a spin-probing approach. Four UV-filter combinations that differed in their photostability and range of UVA absorbance coverage were investigated. Fewer free radicals were generated in the sunscreen formulation when a photostable UVA filter system was used, compared to a stabilized UVA filter system. Additionally, fewer free radicals were generated in the skin when a sunscreen with long UVA protection extending to the short visible range was used, compared to a sunscreen with minimal UVA protection. This study showed that the photostability of a UV-filter system is central to the generation of free radicals in a formulation, and that long UVA-blue light protection is key for avoiding the generation of free radicals in the skin. A sunscreen product exhibiting both photostable UVA protection and long UVA-blue light protection is therefore the most appropriate choice for protecting against ROS-induced skin damage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Sunscreen formulations - Measurement of free radicals - UV and blue light transmittance measurements with photostability assessment
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Photostability profile of investigated sunscreen formulations - Absorbance profile of organic particulate UV filters
- Table 1 : Chassis of the sunscreen formulations used in both studies
- Table 2 : Composition of UV-filter combinations in % by weight
- Table 3 : Relative quantity of free radicals, N = 2
- Table 4 : Means and standard deviations for N = 3-5
- Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of the investigated sunscreens
- Fig. 2 :Free radical formation in the unstable sunscreens as a function of UV irradiation time. Data fitted with a Boltzmann sigmoidal algorithm
- Fig. 3 : Long UVA-blue light transmittance of Tinosorb M and Tinosorb A2B at 4%, 7% and 10%
- Fig. 4 : UVA-blue light transmittance of UV-filter combinations with varying quantities of particulate organic UV filters : from O% (top curve), to 5.25% (middle curve) and 13.5% of organic particulate UV filtersEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pU6mF1OhvWam8jSEoNvLW2xn5Gu1dzrM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32927
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21165 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)
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Titre : Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Wendel Wohlleben, Auteur ; Philipp Müller, Auteur ; Denis Botin, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dioxyde de titane
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Granulométrie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Mesure
Microscopie électronique en transmission
Nanoparticules
Oxyde de zinc
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Despite the UV performance benefits of particulate UV filters, concerns have been raised over their potential percutaneous permeation leading to the requirement of a specific approval for all nano UV filters in Europe. Under the legally binding definition of the Cosmetic regulation No. 1223/2009, nanomaterial means […] a material […] on the scale from 1 to 100 nm. The recommendation of the European Commission (2011/696/EU) revised 10 of June 2022 (2022/C229/01) further specifies that a material is nano when at least 50% of the number size distribution of the constituent particles is comprised between 1 and 100 nm. The situation for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide is confusing since the constituent particles are often part of agglomerates. Some suppliers clearly specify the nano feature of their material, while others declare the non-nano property of their inorganic products. The objective of this study was, therefore, to measure the number-based particle size distribution of three marketed Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide grades using the decision support flow scheme devised by the NanoDefine project. This group was created to support the identification of nanomaterials as required by the European legislation. We employed the tier 1 method asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation (AF4) coupled with UV and IC-PMS (inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy) detectors and tier 2 method transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The study clearly taught that the samples that appeared to be non-nanomaterials with AF4-IC-PMS measurements were finally proven to be nanomaterials using the TEM tier 2 method. Relying only on tier 1 methodologies such as AF4, X-Ray Disc Centrifuge or Dynamic Light Scattering to determine the non-nano property of a material is insufficient, since tier 1 methods are not able to detect constituent particles as part of agglomerates, which is often the case for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. The status of being a non-nanomaterial can, in this case, only be certified with a tier 2 technique, particularly electron microscopy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples of inorganic UV filters - Sunscreen market product - Particle size measurement methods
- RESULTS : Asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation - Transmission Electron MIcroscopyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cR6X6diZiXzgjg00_rZyAvVldN9PMu8l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37924
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23513 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Performance, safety and sustainability - All in tris-biphenyl triazine / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 8 (07-08/2021)
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