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SOFW JOURNAL . Vol. 146, N° 9Disinfection - Plant milking - Anti-aging - Personal care - Skin careMention de date : 09/2020 Paru le : 17/09/2020 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierRoots – the underexplored source of innovative molecules highlighted thanks to PAT plant milking™ technology / Aleksander Salwinski in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
[article]
Titre : Roots – the underexplored source of innovative molecules highlighted thanks to PAT plant milking™ technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aleksander Salwinski, Auteur ; Pierre Warnault, Auteur ; Agnès Guillaumin, Auteur ; Léonor Duriot, Auteur ; Julie Droux, Auteur ; Alexandre Lapeyre, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur ; Hanane Chajra, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antienzymes
Cosmétiques
Douceur (toucher)
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Murier blanc
Murier et constituants
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polyphénols
Racines végétalesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As consumers become increasingly conscious of the need to protect rather than spoil biodiversity on the other side of the world, evolution of technological processes now offers the possibility to get new active molecules from local sourcing. Plant roots, in particular, contain specific and rare compounds with strong biological activities, but were underexplored until recently. A new technology, called Plant Milking™, now allows plant cultivation in aeroponic conditions that give direct access to the roots. Grown in an air environment, they present a different phytochemical profile than those grown in the soil. For the white mulberry tree (Morus alba), this corresponds to an enriched content in prenylated polyphenols. As a result, Prenylium™, the extract of Morus alba obtained from the Plant Milking™ technology, presents the capacity to protect the skin matrisome against UV radiation and chronoaging, by regulating the expression of COL-3, CCN-1 and MMP-1 genes, whose expressions are dysregulated in aged and photoaged skins. In addition, the synergistic effect of these prenylated polyphenols in Prenylium™ has a stronger collagenase inhibition than the molecules taken individually, demonstrating the benefit of using such an extract. Thanks to these biological activities, Prenylium™ clinically demonstrates a significant capacity to reduce wrinkle depth, improve skin smoothness and promote skin plumping. Note de contenu : - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Plant cultivation performance- Phytochemical profiles of Morus alba root extracts according to their culture conditions - Prenylium™ protects dermal fibroblasts and skin matrisome against UV damage - Prenylium™ inhibits collagenase activity - Prenylium™ reduces wrinkle depth, improves skin smoothness and skin plumping
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Morus alba plant culture and root extracts preparation - Determination of phytochemical profiles of Morus alba root extracts - Procollagen type I C Propeptide (CICP) quantificationGene expressions studyCollagenase inhibition activity - Clinical investigation
- Tab. 1 et 2 : Root extract content in each prenylated polyphenol identified according to plant culture conditions. The content is expressed in Moracenin B equivalent (mg/L)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OjuxiRrSQQOfIUy38pHexfXPzkraIJ0P/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34621
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Titre : Ingestible beauty Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sandra Schulze, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 12-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Astaxanthine
Collagène
Cosmétiques
Elasticité
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Hydratation
Nutrition
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PeptidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The body’s largest organ, the skin, is one that requires a lot of nourishment and care. Topical skin care applications still have their appeal, but ingestible beauty products are on the fast track. More than ever, the link between nutrition and skin conditions is obvious to consumers. If you provide your body with the right nutrients and create a healthy internal environment, it will show on the outside. Increasing interest from younger consumers keen to preserve their natural youth is a major driver behind the category’s growth. Similarly, the ever-growing ageing population wants to retain a youthful appearance into later life, thus contributing to the demand for high quality beauty ingredients. According to Innova Market Insights, the key trends in new product development are evidence of efficacy, naturality of ingredients and their ability to be multifunctional. Clearly, this creates opportunities for many ingredients. The following article will focus on three main targets for healthy skin: antioxidant protection, elasticity and moisture retention. Note de contenu : - The antioxidant power of astaxanthin
- Protecting underlying structures
- Collagen peptides : the secret - beauty boosters
- Maintaining moisture with hyaluronic acid
- Market domination for science-backed skin care ingredients
- Emerging evidence
- Fig. 1 : Haematococcus pluvialis algae under the microscopy
- Fig. 2 : Influence of collagen in the skin layersEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_gbPVTr08pANBOzFKxt-O9XxG0C5S6vi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34622
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21951 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Not beauty is the key to happiness – Happiness is the key to beauty ! / Hagen Döring in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
[article]
Titre : Not beauty is the key to happiness – Happiness is the key to beauty ! Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hagen Döring, Auteur ; Miguel Perez-Aso, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Jordi Bosch, Auteur ; Angela Roca, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 14-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bien-être
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
EpigénétiqueL'épigénétique (mot-valise de "épigenèse" et "génétique") est la discipline de la biologie qui étudie la nature des mécanismes modifiant de manière réversible, transmissible (lors des divisions cellulaires) et adaptative l'expression des gènes sans en changer la séquence nucléotidique (ADN)
"Alors que la génétique correspond à l'étude des gènes, l'épigénétique s’intéresse à une "couche" d’informations complémentaires qui définit comment ces gènes vont être utilisés par une cellule ou… ne pas l'être".
"C'est un concept qui dément en partie la "fatalité" des gènes".
Fibroblastes
Fruit du moineLe fruit de moine ou fruit du moine (Siraitia grosvenorii), est une plante grimpante pérenne originaire du sud de la Chine. C'est l'une des quatre espèces du genre Siraitia. Il est connu sous le synonyme de Momordica grosvenorii et Thladiantha grosvenorii. Les autres espèces du genre Siraitia sont Siraitia siamensis poussant en Thaïlande, Siraitia sikkimensis et Siraitia silomaradjae poussant en Inde, et Siraitia taiwaniana poussant à Taïwan.
La plante pousse de 3 à 5 m de long, s'élevant verticalement en s'accrochant et en s'enroulant sur les autres végétaux. Les feuilles en forme de cœur font de 10 à 20 cm de long. Le fruit de forme ovale de 5 à 7 cm de diamètre contient une pulpe sucrée, comestible ainsi que de nombreuses graines. Son fruit est plus connu sous son nom chinois luo han guo (罗汉果, 羅漢果, luóhàn guǒ, "fruit du arhat").
Un extrait du fruit est 300 fois plus sucré que le saccharose et est utilisé comme édulcorant naturel alimentaire et un ingrédient de la médecine chinoise traditionnelle. Des hétérosides au pouvoir sucrant intense, le mogroside V, mogroside IV et le siamenoside I qui sont responsables du goût sucré du fruit.
Hydratation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In an environment that promotes overall wellbeing as a life philosophy, our laboratory wanted to ascertain what impact the use of a skincare product containing a new active ingredient would have on people’s emotions. This novel ingredient is based on the Monk fruit (Momordica grosvenorii) which is cultivated in a mountain valley in Guangxi, a place known by the striking longevity and happiness of its inhabitants.
Since emotions are directly linked to the subconscious, the intention was to measure objectively the emotional impact of using this active ingredient in a cosmetic application. To do so, our laboratory used scientific rigour and Artificial Intelligence (AI) taking into account such subconscious evaluations.
But overall wellbeing is seen as integrative beauty that embraces both the emotional health and the physical aspect. Consequently, our laboratory also took a closer look at the causes for aging. While many people say it is all in the genes, Epigenetics suggests that not everything is genetically predisposed. Lifestyle has a major impact and maintaining good habits like exercising, eating plenty of fruits and vegetables, not smoking, and drinking alcohol in moderation can have very positive effects on the aging process.Note de contenu : - Introduction : Epigenetics
- Results of the in vitro and ex vivo efficacy study
- Results of the in vivo efficacy study : Study I (physical assessments) - Study II (emotional responses)
- Fig. 1 : Changes in HA and decorin in skin explants treated with the active. Upper row, explants in basal conditions and the lower row, explants with the active
- Fig. 2 : Evolution of neck wrinkles reduction in volunteer 29
- Fig. 3 : Representative AEVA 3D reconstruction of the reduction in crow's feet after 56 days treatment with the active (volunteer 34)
- Fig. 4 : Percentage of volunteers choosing the positive and top answer in both conscious and subconscious responses. Possible answers were : totally agree, somewhat agree, somewhat disagree and totally disagree for the two bottom statements whereas for enthusiasm was yes or not. Dark bars are the active and light bars are placeboEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jf2n9tEH0O6cUy2RQt7wUv5KGc9nTYf0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34623
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21951 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Combining science with nature for a new concept in skin fillers / Caverzan da Silva Jeanifer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
[article]
Titre : Combining science with nature for a new concept in skin fillers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Caverzan da Silva Jeanifer, Auteur ; Patricia da Luz Moreira, Auteur ; Lilian Mussi, Auteur ; Wagner Magalhàes, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 18-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adipogenèse L'adipogenèse est le processus de différenciation cellulaire selon lequel des pré-adipocytes deviennent des adipocytes.
Physiologiquement, il désigne aussi la fabrication du tissu adipeux et le stockage de lipides par les adipocytes. Elle est stimulé par l'hydroxycortisone.
Il faut néanmoins le distinguer du terme lipogenèse qui désigne le processus biochimique.
Antiâge
Antiâge:Antirides
Cosmétiques
Etudes cliniques
Evaluation
Hyaluronane
Thymus vulgaris
Vieillissement cutané
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Over time, physiological changes like the reduction of collagen and elastin production, as well as an overall decrease in skin metabolism and redox imbalance, result in significant aesthetic changes that include increased skin roughness, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and firmness, thinning of the skin, and the appearance of age spots. Additionally, bone retraction and the loss of adipose tissue (lipoatrophy) are also factors in the appearance of aging skin. Several studies have shown that the greater the facial lipoatrophy, the older it appears. To restore a more youthful appearance, dermal fillers are injected into the dermis to re-establish the volume lost to lipoatrophy. Seeking a non-invasive alternative to injectable fillers, Cellfie was developed as a plant-based ingredient that offers a precise and efficient delivery system that activates adipogenesis by stimulating adiponectin and PPARγ to ease the signs of aging. Both mediators were evaluated in vitro as well as the adipogenesis effect. A clinical study was performed using the Bio3D Structured-light Scanner to evaluate area, length, and depth of wrinkles on perioral, nasolabial, periorbital wrinkles and smile regions. Cellfie was found to effectively induce adipogenesis – stimulating skin filling and reducing the signs of aging. Note de contenu : - In vitro evaluation of adipogenesis
- Clinical study
- Fig. 1 : Life cycle of adipocytes – determination and differentiation throughout adipogenesis. Scheme from Lee MJ
- Fig. 2 : Scheme showing the areas evaluated for wrinkles : perioral wrinkles, nasolabial lines, crow’s feet (periorbital wrinkles) and smile lines
- Fig. 3 : Assessment on the induction of adipogenesis in the culture of predipocytes. Microscopy images at 40x magnification
- Fig. 4 : Effect in the depth of perioral wrinkles
- Fig. 5 : Effect in the depth of periorbital wrinkles (crow's feet)
- Fig. 6 : Effect in the depth of smile lines
- Fig. 7 : Effect in the depth of nasolabial lines
- Fig. 8 : Effect on perioral, periorbital, smile line and nasola-bial wrinkles after 60 days of treatmentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18fdftx98nXqXBSIAt89I8B3k8jC86CWx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34624
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21951 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Full spectrum hyaluronans : Evidence of effectiveness by fine-tuning development of cell physiology / Andrea Maltagliati in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
[article]
Titre : Full spectrum hyaluronans : Evidence of effectiveness by fine-tuning development of cell physiology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrea Maltagliati, Auteur ; Stefania Zanzottera, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 24-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Hyaluronane
Hyaluronate de sodium
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The present paper aims at demonstrating the overcoming concept of standard Sodium Hyaluronate (SH) and its acidic form (HA).
The basic notion about Sodium Hyaluronate is that different molecular weights can stimulate different singular effects on cells, leading to opposite physiological performances.
2.0 Full Spectrum Hyaluronans provide an “ecological” beauty routine for skin because they reproduce human physiological requirements by focusing on a wide spectrum, which mediates a specific cellular answer through the activation of different cell receptors and the fine-tuned effect of skin regeneration processes in a physiological-like stimulation.Note de contenu : - Introduction : Hyaloronan characteristics
- CD44/hyaluronan interactions
- CD44 receptor characteristics
- Full spectrum technology
- Subtler ingredients, fine-tuning skin physiology
- Evidence of efficacyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11tSrPZXnkEO1S9NH5pmCvFe0fnA8cOEb/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34625
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21951 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Overall renewal of lipids improves skin hydration and fragrances long lasting / Morgane de Tollenaere in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
[article]
Titre : Overall renewal of lipids improves skin hydration and fragrances long lasting Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Emilie Chapuis, Auteur ; Laura Lapierre, Auteur ; Marine Bracq, Auteur ; Carole Lambert, Auteur ; Daniel Auriol, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur ; Romain Reynaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Lipides
Parfums
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau mature
Produits hydratants
Sébum
VetiverLe vetiver désigne un ensemble de plantes de la famille des Poaceae (Graminées). Il s'agit de plusieurs espèces du genre Chrysopogon (et anciennement placées dans le genre Vetiveria). On en connaît une douzaine d'espèces poussant dans les zones tropicales. La plus connue est Chrysopogon zizanioides qui pousse surtout sur le sous-continent indien. Deux autres espèces sont fréquemment cultivées : Chrysopogon nigritanus (Afrique australe) et Chrysopogon nemoralis (Asie du Sud-Est).
La plante se présente sous forme de grandes touffes vertes, dont la racine, se développant verticalement, peut atteindre des profondeurs allant jusqu'à trois mètres.
Usage en parfumerie : Après distillation, la racine de vétiver fournit une essence résineuse très épaisse utilisée en parfumerie. L'essence de vétiver appartient à la famille olfactive des boisés. C'est une essence à la saveur fine et complexe : boisée, aromatique, verte, quelquefois légèrement fumée. Le vétiver est principalement utilisé dans les parfums masculins, plus rarement dans les parfums féminins. Le parfumeur Guerlain crée en 1959 un parfum pour hommes nommé Vétiver, ainsi que Carven qui commercialise alors son parfum homonyme en deux versions homme et femme. Plus récemment, Dominique Ropion crée "Vétiver extraordinaire" pour les Éditions de parfum Frédéric Malle, en exploitant un procédé d'extraction qui limite les notes camphrées et permet d'utiliser l'essence à des concentrations élevées.
En parfumerie, on utilise trois variétés différentes de racines de vétiver : le vétiver Bourbon (un des plus appréciés), le vétiver Haïti et le vétiver de Java (à l'odeur légèrement plus fumée).Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin lipids quality and quantity are essential for an efficient barrier function and providing skin hydration. It is well described today that these parameters are affected by ageing, resulting in skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a groundbreaking upcycling approach. We have verified that this unique extract was able to reactivate the skin surface lipids production, bringing skin hydration for mature skin. Among the lipids capable of modifying the skin surface, there are those from sebum and skin barrier.
We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to increase specific lipids involved in skin hydration such as ceramides and their precursors on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. This improvement was then evidenced at clinical level in a panel of mature volunteers with poor hydration level. The extract brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and modification of lipids conformation into the skin as measured by Raman spectroscopy.
Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract allows sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines. At the clinical level on mature volunteers, we confirmed this improvement with a significant increase of sebum production.
By influencing lipid content and structure at different levels, it was hypothesized that Vetiver extract could impact the interaction between skin lipids and volatile compounds provided by fragrance application. We demonstrated, thanks to an innovative study design, that Vetiver extract lengthens the duration of fragrance by emphasizing fragrances’ heart and base notes over time. In conclusion, we developed an upcycled active ingredient able to bring skin benefits for mature skin and boosting fragrance.Note de contenu : - 1. IMPROVEMENT OF SKIN LIPIDS INVOLVED IN BARRIER FUNCTION : In vitro lipid neosynthesis in Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) - Ex vivo stimulation of lipid synthesis - Clinical investigation of skin hydration and lipid conformation
- 2. IMPROVEMENT OF QUANTITY OF SEBUM LIPIDS : In vitro lipid accumulation on sebocytes - Clinical investigation on sebum production in elderly volunteers
- 3. IMPROVEMENT OF FRAGRANCE LONG LASTING : SELF-ASSESSMENTOF OLFACTORY INTENSITYEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13ZugUEKLB5gJw9uN2ZOTN1bAFDIRRwZS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34626
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Titre : Oily skin under control for all Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Olga Laporta, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Albert Soley, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 36-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agent mattant
Biomolécules actives
Biotechnologie
Cosmétiques
Hommes
Hydratation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Séborrhée
SébumIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When dealing with oily skin, finding the suitable cosmetic product and routine can become a hard task. Besides seeking for a mattifying effect able to reduce shininess throughout the day, there is also a general concern to maintain the basic needs of hydration, which is impaired when reducing sebum levels. Therefore, a decrease in sebum content and a maintenance in skin hydration become the perfect combo for such skin types, and this is now possible thanks to Matmarine™ biotech ingredient, a marine ingredient able to control oily skin in multiethnic volunteers and in both women and men. Note de contenu : - Benefits and negative outcomes of sebum
- Controlling sebum secretion through sebocytes
- Matmarine™ biotech ingredient, targeting MC5-R to decrease sebum levels
- Reduction in MC5-R protein levels
- Decrease in sebocyte differentiation and lipid accumulation
- Inhibition of lipid peroxidation
- Microarray analysis
- Type I collagen induction
- Minimized pores and moisturized skin in men
- Sebum, shininess and skin pores in caucasian skin
- Sebum regulating effect on Asian skin
- Mattifying efficacy in a BB cream along the day
- Fig. 1 : Images of a volunteer before and after the active treatment
- Fig. 2 : Images of skin pores of a volunteer at different times
- Fig. 3 : Images of an asian volunteer before and after the treatmentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D_gTUczLGjTilY1bdYLTiBFVPMZMzLfx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34627
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21951 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients for alcohol-based formulations / Tuttu Nuutinen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
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Titre : Nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients for alcohol-based formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tuttu Nuutinen, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Xin Qu, Auteur ; Ann Druffner, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 40-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcool
Analyse sensorielle
Antimicrobiens
Cellulose -- Dérivés
Cellulose bactérienne
CelluloseLa cellulose est un glucide constitué d'une chaîne linéaire de molécules de D-Glucose (entre 200 et 14 000) et principal constituant des végétaux et en particulier de la paroi de leurs cellules.
Désinfectants
Emollients
Epaississants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydratation
Hydroxypropyl cellulose
Hydroxypropyl méthylcellulose
Mains -- Désinfection
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
ViscositéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today, hand sanitizers formulated with >60% alcohol are more important than ever to kill germs on hands when soap and water are not available. The choice of ingredients for alcohol-based formulations is critical to deliver an efficacious, stable product with pleasing aesthetics. As consumers are increasingly choosing products with ingredients that originate in nature and are based on renewable resources, nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients are valuable for alcohol-based formulations.
In recent studies, cellulose-based thickeners and emollient esters were evaluated in prototype hand sanitizer formulations with 70% ethanol for rheological properties, clarity, electrolyte stability and sensory properties. Formulations tested containing hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) were compared to acrylate-based formulations. The results show key differences between performance of the formulations with the cellulose-based thickeners showing improved rheology properties in the presences of salt. In consumer tests, the differences in sensory were also noted. For example, panelists noted better moisturization and spreadability with HPC and HPMC. Thus, the choice of ingredients is an important consideration in formulating hand sanitizers, both for sanitizing performance and for positive sensorial experience.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients - Formulations - Antimicrobial activity- Viscosity measurements - Skin hydration evaluation - Sensory consumer Panel test
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of rheology modifier on antimicrobial efficacy - Impact of electrolytes on rheology - Influence emollients on formulation viscosity - Effect of rheology modifiers on skin hydration - Role of rheology modifiers on sensorial properties
- Table 1 : Cellulose-derived rheology modifiers
- Table 2 : Alcohol-soluble emollients
- Table 3 : Model hand sanitizer formulations for hydration and sensory studies
- Table 4 : Prototype hand sanitizer formulation for emollient study
- Fig. 1 : Viscosity profiles for three formulations with (open) and without sodium chloride salt (closed)
- Fig. 2 : Viscosity profiles of hand sanitizer prototypes with various emollients
- Fig. 3 : Skin hydration results of hydroalcoholic formulations with different rheology modifiers using Corneometer instrument
- Fig. 4 : Sensory evaluation results of model hand sanitizer formulations: HPC vs acrylate thickeners
- Fig. 5 : Sensory evaluation results of model hand sanitizer formulations: HPMC vs acrylate thickenerEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S4wnU33JEdQLyAe9RQH9HvsprqZfTtmP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34628
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21951 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Formulating W/O emulsions : Features and solutions / Gattefossé in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
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Titre : Formulating W/O emulsions : Features and solutions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gattefossé, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 44-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coalescence (Sciences physiques)
Cosmétiques
Electrolytes
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
SédimentationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : W/O (water-in-oil) emulsions are becoming more and more preferred in the personal care space, particularly regarding color cosmetics and sun care.
In color cosmetics, W/O foundations offer better water resistance, long-wear, and high coverage – all the performance qualities a consumer desires – compared to O/W (oil-in-water) formulations. And though W/Si (water-in-silicone) formulations may offer great performance and texture, they do not qualify as natural makeup, making them a less desirable option among younger shoppers.
When it comes to sun care, consumers are moving towards mineral options. For example, sunscreen launches containing zinc oxide increased by 45% from 2014-15 to 2018-19 in North America. Zinc oxide is easier to formulate in a W/O than an O/W system. In fact, most inorganic sunscreens are either anhydrous or W/O formulations.
However, formulating can be easier said than done, as there are many challenges that come with making a stable W/O product. W/O systems are more sensitive to other ingredients and require more energy in their processing to ensure stability. There are two key factors to consider when it comes to W/O formulation : oil polarity and electrolyte addition, which may not have any influence or not even be necessary for O/W formulations.Note de contenu : - W/O emulsions meet market trends
- Oil polarity
- Electrolytes addition
- Emulium® illustro, the solution for natural and stable W/O emulsions
- Fig. 1 : Representation of the Ostwald ripening
- Fig. 2 : Representation of coalescence and sedimentation
- Fig. 3 : Main chemical structure of Emulium® IllustroEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L_ZFxhC_Ml_BC_CvvrGY_PatV_VpbrfG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34629
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Code-barres | Cote | Support | Localisation | Section | Disponibilité |
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