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CeramosidesTM HP, a complex of plant-based ceramide for well-ageing / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 3 (03/2023)
[article]
Titre : CeramosidesTM HP, a complex of plant-based ceramide for well-ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Momméja, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 32-34 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
CéramidesUn céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire.
Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés.
La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia)
Dermo-cosmétologie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Aging has always been an important target for the beauty care industry. The way to talk about it and to address consumers has evolved though. In the 30’s - 50’s, aging was seen as an aggression and women needed to be saved from it. Between the 50’s - 80’s, there was a switch of mindset where images evolved to be more rewarding, with stronger & more independent women. In the 90’s, anti-aging speech got militarized, as not showing the signs of aging was mandatory. In the 2000’s, anti-aging evolved as campaigns showed more and more “mature” women seen as beautiful & seductive. In the 2010’s, the anti-aging messages started to be supportive and encouraging. Aging was then also associated with environmental factors, such as pollution. Today, aging is seen as a positive token of experience. Traditional ways of marketing – specifically around age – are becoming less relevant. Women are growing more self-confident & are less anxious about the signs of aging. Well-aging has emerged. Well-aging is based on a healthy lifestyle and echoes healthy ingredients,well-known and reassuring for consumers, supporting and maintaining the healthiest skin possible. Ceramosides™ HP, a complex of phytoceramides, is one of these ingredients. Derived from wheat (nevertheless gluten free), a well-known plant, it is a plant-based ceramide whose benefits for skin are widely known, especially for mature skin. Interesting data were generated to support skin health and well-aging benefits. Note de contenu : - Composition
- Efficacy : In-vitro tests : Elasticity and firmness - In-vivo study 1 : Pore minimizing effect and improved skin texture - In-vivo 2
- Safety & application
- Table 1 : Ceramosides HP characteristicsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E7QNqy8HrbQrIMrpbTdMAQx9gvpO2wv4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38940
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 32-34[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23898 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A healthy scalp for healthy hair : New routines & claims / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 4 (04/2022)
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Titre : A healthy scalp for healthy hair : New routines & claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Momméja, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 16-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antipelliculaires
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Exfoliants
Produits après-shampooings
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Scalp care is a dynamic market with a positive growth rate of new product launches. It shares characteristics with the hair care but also with the skin care market, thus embodying best the skincarisation process of the hair care world. The focus on scalp is not new though. Many brands already addressed scalp conditions in the past with a strong focus on scalp disorders like dandruff. However, even though anti-dandruff products lead the scalp segment worldwide, they are not the lever of this product launch dynamic. The dynamic is somewhere else. But where ? Note de contenu : - The quest for healthiness
- Challenges
- Scrub & shampoo, the new scalp heroe
- Anti-dandruff conditioner, the growing anti-dandruff application
- Scalp serum, a new routine inspired by skin careEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fTP-DqqrcNv-iBa_5BiRYDWtMwxVOK74/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37490
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23349 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Micellar water, surfactants and make-up removing performance / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)
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Titre : Micellar water, surfactants and make-up removing performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Momméja, Auteur ; Elodie Cuq Arnaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 22-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Démaquillants
Eau micellaire
Evaluation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Surfactants
Tests d'efficacitéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today, micellar waters are gaining popularity and are driven by the European market which represents 33% of the market share, followed by APAC with 30% and North America with 27%. In addition, a dynamic of new launches appeared particularly in younger markets, with high growth potential, such as Brazil or Indonesia (+9.1% and 21.6% CAGR respectively). But what are really micellar waters and what is the science behind ? Note de contenu : - Method to evaluate the make-up removal effectiveness En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/154yTXrdwccGZkkl9RQYQsc9S9xDzL2ZT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38417
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23718 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Octyldodecanol & octyldodecyl xyloside, a versatile green co-emulsifier for surprising formulations / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 5 (05/2022)
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Titre : Octyldodecanol & octyldodecyl xyloside, a versatile green co-emulsifier for surprising formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Momméja, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 30-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires
Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Huiles et graisses
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Naturality and sustainability have become a game changer in the personal care industry. Each continent adapts differently and offers various solutions to address the expectations of consumers. In Europe, and especially in Germany, a strong focus is put on the naturality of ingredients. Nowadays, several chemistries, covering a wide range of ingredients from ethoxylated compounds to synthetic polymers, are not welcome anymore in some cosmetic formulations. If some solutions already exist, they rarely allow replacing the above mentioned ingredients 1:1. Each formula can become a new challenge. Consequently, because of the high technical challenge of natural formulations achieving the same performance as synthetic-based products, the formulators don’t always have the possibility to investigate the 360° formulation profile of each ingredient and to understand its benefits and inconvenients in different types, and sometimes surprising, galenics. Here is a focus on a very versatile co-emulsifier and emollient that can be used like a Swiss-Army knife to give the boost that formulations need. Note de contenu : - W/O emulsions
- A specific case : GELTRAP, a patented gel-in-oil technology
- Benefits in O/W systems
- A specific case : Bi- & tri-phasic formulas
- Solubilizing properties
- Table 1 : Cold process W/O emulsion with Octyldodecanol & Octyldodecyl Xyloside (stability checked during 3 months at room temperature and 45°C)
- Table 2 : Gel-in-oil emulsion (G/O), patented Geltrap technology, with octyldodecanol & octyldodecyl xyloside (stability checked during 3 months at room temperature and 45°C)
- Table 3 : Tri-phase with octyldodecanol & octyldodecyl xyloside (stability checked during 1 month at room temperature, 45°C and 4°C)
- Table 4 : Oil with octyldodecanol & octyldodecyl xyloside (stability checked during 3 months at room temperature and 45°C)
- Table 5 : Wax with octyldodecanol & octyldodecyl xyloside (stability checked during 1 month at room temperature and 45°C)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12VpU64Jr3lEDw47VSHKLui1bbOLzopp0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37616
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23429 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Titre : Sea beet for hair & scalp protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Momméja, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 2-3 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Betteraves de mer et constituants
Biomolécules actives
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : "Protection" has become a common word in the cosmetic claims vocabulary. The high exposure to external stress like UV exposure, pollution or blue light, and its consequence on the body, increased the awareness amongst consumers of the importance of protection and prevention of ageing factors. The different stresses we are exposed to are now covered by the concept "exposome". This was defined by an American epidemiologist, Christopher Wild, as “all the factors to which an individual is exposed over the course of its life, from birth right through to death, incl. the prenatal stages", thus including external as well as internal stress factors. What does it mean for hair beauty ? Note de contenu : - An ancestral plant to protect hair & scalp
- Scalp protection
- Hair conditioning benefits
- The ideal solution for natural anti-agine hair & scalp care products
- Fig. 1 : Hair scales at D0 and D28 at magnification X 750 (electron microscope)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10uHcP-2N_dmqlSyCIJoQ5Y4zwns_VaWA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35565
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 4 (04/2021) . - p. 2-3[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22654 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A short-chain lipoaminoacid for a complete skin & scalp dermopurifying action / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 9 (09/2022)
PermalinkSustainable alternative to viscous silicones / Anna Momméja in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022)
PermalinkThe senior hair care market : active ingredients for healthy scalp & hair / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 9 (09/2021)
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