Nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients for alcohol-based formulations / Tuttu Nuutinen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020) . - p. 40-43 Titre : Nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients for alcohol-based formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tuttu Nuutinen, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Xin Qu, Auteur ; Ann Druffner, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 40-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcool Analyse sensorielle Antimicrobiens Cellulose -- Dérivés Cellulose bactérienne Cellulose La cellulose est un glucide constitué d'une chaîne linéaire de molécules de D-Glucose (entre 200 et 14 000) et principal constituant des végétaux et en particulier de la paroi de leurs cellules. Désinfectants Emollients Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydratation Hydroxypropyl cellulose Hydroxypropyl méthylcellulose Mains -- Désinfection Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today, hand sanitizers formulated with >60% alcohol are more important than ever to kill germs on hands when soap and water are not available. The choice of ingredients for alcohol-based formulations is critical to deliver an efficacious, stable product with pleasing aesthetics. As consumers are increasingly choosing products with ingredients that originate in nature and are based on renewable resources, nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients are valuable for alcohol-based formulations. In recent studies, cellulose-based thickeners and emollient esters were evaluated in prototype hand sanitizer formulations with 70% ethanol for rheological properties, clarity, electrolyte stability and sensory properties. Formulations tested containing hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) were compared to acrylate-based formulations. The results show key differences between performance of the formulations with the cellulose-based thickeners showing improved rheology properties in the presences of salt. In consumer tests, the differences in sensory were also noted. For example, panelists noted better moisturization and spreadability with HPC and HPMC. Thus, the choice of ingredients is an important consideration in formulating hand sanitizers, both for sanitizing performance and for positive sensorial experience. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Nature-based rheology modifiers and emollients - Formulations - Antimicrobial activity- Viscosity measurements - Skin hydration evaluation - Sensory consumer Panel test - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of rheology modifier on antimicrobial efficacy - Impact of electrolytes on rheology - Influence emollients on formulation viscosity - Effect of rheology modifiers on skin hydration - Role of rheology modifiers on sensorial properties - Table 1 : Cellulose-derived rheology modifiers - Table 2 : Alcohol-soluble emollients - Table 3 : Model hand sanitizer formulations for hydration and sensory studies - Table 4 : Prototype hand sanitizer formulation for emollient study - Fig. 1 : Viscosity profiles for three formulations with (open) and without sodium chloride salt (closed) - Fig. 2 : Viscosity profiles of hand sanitizer prototypes with various emollients - Fig. 3 : Skin hydration results of hydroalcoholic formulations with different rheology modifiers using Corneometer instrument - Fig. 4 : Sensory evaluation results of model hand sanitizer formulations: HPC vs acrylate thickeners - Fig. 5 : Sensory evaluation results of model hand sanitizer formulations: HPMC vs acrylate thickener En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S4wnU33JEdQLyAe9RQH9HvsprqZfTtmP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34628 [article]

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Sugar-based ingredient for hair strengthening / Michael Franzke in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 53-57 Titre : Sugar-based ingredient for hair strengthening Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Franzke, Auteur ; David Popplewell, Auteur ; Diem Tran, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Emmanuel Everaert, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 53-57 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Essais dynamiques Glucose Ingrédients cosmétiques Matériaux -- Fatigue Traction (mécanique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : FiberHance BM Solution (INCl hydroxypropyl Gluconamide (and) hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate) is a new patent pending chemistry in the growing arsenal of ingredients for internal har strenghtening and bond repair. It is based on glucose chemistry and has a unique multifaceted mode of action which penetrates deep into the hair cortex to create new hydrogen and ionic bonds. These support the damaged internal keratin structure and strengthen and provide manageability back to the hair fibre. Note de contenu : - Causes and symptoms of weak hair - The chemistry and mode of action - Test methodology and results - Cyclic tensile fatigue - HPGluconamide/HAGluconate in reactive chemistry systems - FIGURES : 1. Chemical structure - 2. Hair 2x bleached, and then treated with HPGluconamide/HAGluconate (soaked 2% as is solution then washed). Intensity map of band 1400 cm-1 by FTIR - 3. HPGluconamide/HAGluconate provides up to 3w strenghtening across various degrees of damaged hair (in comparison to untreated samples) - 4. HPGluconamide/GAGluconate provides > 3x strenghtening of untreated hair across different types of hair ethnicities - 5. Cyclic tensile fatigue testing of HPGluconamide/HAGluconate containing Ashland prototype shampoo vs. commercial benchmark - 6. Increase of S=O bonds signlas with increase of bleaching intensity - 8. As higher EDF is as lower peak temperature of hair sample - TABLES : 1. Key features and benefits - 2. Ash intensity premium hair repair shampoo (prototype formulation) - 3. Effect of HPGluconamide/HAGluconate in oxidative dyes En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ezdy2jpLN7POvR_UMWAbm-Z5AU5NVn_N/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29316 [article]

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Sustainable solutions for hair care / Michael Franzke in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 38-44 Titre : Sustainable solutions for hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Franzke, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur ; Tuttu Nuutinen, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Lidia Kulcsar, Auteur ; Coralie Alonso, Auteur ; David Streuli, Auteur ; Anthony Luschen, Auteur ; Penny Antonopoulos, Auteur ; Xin Qu, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Mousse (chimie) Produits capillaires Produits coiffants Rhéologie shampooings Surfactants Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustainability is an area which is permanently growing in importance. Therefore, there is also a growing demand for environmentally conscious cosmetic products. The current article summarizes a series of solutions for hair care that fit this market need applying different concepts. A snapshot of varying hair care formulation concepts – shampoos, conditioners, and hair styling – with different strategies to help improve sustainability profiles for the different product types is presented. Examples include cellulose derivatives that help to reduce raw material use like surfactants in shampoos or conditioners while maintaining the original level of performance. Guar derivatives improve deposition of natural oil or anti dandruff actives on hair and scalp thus optimizing the benefits of such ingredients. Biodegradable guars can also be used in styling products creating high performing systems, with long-lasting hold. Note de contenu : - SUSTAINABLE APPROACHES FOR SHAMPOO : Reducing surfactant by adding methylhydroxypropylcellulose - Guars, nature-derived materials for optimized deposition - IMPROVING SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE OF RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS : Hair mousse - Table 1 : Sulfate-free surfactant formula w HPMC for foam study - Table 2 : Effect of HPMC in reducing Interleukin1-alpha release in sulfate-free formula - Table 3 : Mousse Formulations - Fig. 1 : Foam profile sulfate-free surfactant mix with HPMC vs commercial sulfate-based shampoo - Fig. 2 : Diluted commercial AD w. Guar large flocs formed and AD prototype with Guar Nhance BF 13 small flocs formed - Fig. 3 : Viscosity profile of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Using Serrated parallel plates (50 mm), 25 deg C, Controlled shear stress, Bohlin Rheometer. All Conditioners were made using identical process, same ageing time - Fig. 4 : Wet and dry sensory assessment of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Test Mannequin heads with damaged hair. - Fig. 5 : High humidity curl retention of aqueous Styleze ES-1 solutions in comparison to Aqueous PQ-4 solutions. Cond: 90% rel. Hum./25°C - Fig. 6 : Stylezeâ„¢ ES-1 delivers long term (48-hour) styling benefits vs. PQ-4 mousse - Fig. 7 : Tack measurement of Stylezeâ„¢ ES-1 and PQ-4 with texture analyzer - Formulation 1 : Base formulation conditioner En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15GWzyaeN4T0a7gkqNszcvryvubAdcrLK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33826 [article]

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