Amino acid-based surfactants : more than just 'natural' ! / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 92-96 Titre : Amino acid-based surfactants : more than just 'natural' ! Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 92-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Huiles et graisses Hygiène Produits nettoyants shampooings Surfactants Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Amino acids are key components of the human metabolism : Glutamate, for instance, is the most important substance in the brain to transport information from one nerve cell to another. It is a neurotransmitter. Additionally, amino acids can be linked together in different combinations to create shorter (peptides) and longer (proteins) chains. Both fulfil a variety of different vital functions in the human body : Collagen, for instance, is the most frequently occurring protein in the human body. It is composed of three intertwined chains (triple helix) to lend structure to connective tissue. Simply for spatial arrangement reasons in this protein the smallest amino acid, glycine, is the main component. The water solubility of amino acids also makes them an attractive choice for the hydrophilic part of surfactants. When an amino acid is linked with a triglyceridederived fatty acid (e. g. from coconut oil), surfactants (N-acyl derivatives, "amino acid surfactants") exclusively based on natural components are created. When the amino acid is produced via a fermentation process starting from glucose or its derivatives, the surfactants even are completely composed of renewable raw materials (e. g. cocoyl glutamate). Those surfactants are an ideal choice for natural cosmetic applications. Contrary to expectations, the development of amino acid surfactants is not a result of the current trend towards ‘green’ surfactants. The first examples were patented in the 1930s. Already at that time one candidate, a derivative of sarcosine, was introduced to the market. The original idea behind this development was to create surfactants alternative to soaps to overcome their drawbacks (precipitation in pH-neutral aqueous solutions, sensitivity to water hardness). The 'trick' is to insert a suitable spacer between the hydrophobic part and the carboxylate group. By the way, in the 1930s also another solution was found : To introduce a sulfo-group and to "block" or replace the carboxylic group of fatty acids (e. g. acyl isethionates and fatty alcohol sulfates). The attractiveness of amino acid surfactants for cosmetic applications is additionally based on two other aspects : At first, they are proven mild and well foaming surfactants. Secondly, they are excellent biodegradable. The linkage between the hydrophobic and the hydrophilic part of the surfactant is an amide bond. This type of bondage is frequently ‘used’ by nature (e.g. in peptides and proteins) and can therefore easily be cleaved by nature´s enzymes. Note de contenu : - Acyl sarcosinates and acyl glycinates : unequal siblings - Acyl glutamates : completely sustainable - The principle 'thickening without thickeners' - Fig. 1 : Examples for natural amino acids in aqueous solutions (pH 7) : a) Glutamate, b) Glycine, c) Sarcosine - Fig. 2 : a) Surfactants based on N-lauroyl amino acids (amino acid surfactants), R : Amino acid specific rest, R* : H for glutamates and glycinates, CH3 for sarcosinates b) Soap (laurate) - Fig. 3 : Two amino acid surfactants: Hydrogen bonds (hashed line) can be created only in acyl glycinates - Fig. 4 : Radical change of micellar structures: Thickening by lowering the pH - Fig. 5 : Anionic and neutral form of an amino acid surfactant: Effective spatial arrangement within micelles. For the position of the “border” between hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts see literature - Fig. 6 : Schematic spatial arrangement of acyl glutamates within micelles - Fig. 7 : Thickening by lowering the pH - Table 1 : PEG-free luxurious facial cleansing oil - Table 2 : Very mild and creamy foaming body shampoo - Table 3 : Shower gel for natural cosmetics En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lAbknzP3EERz6-Qf39MDKT2xg6j5Abgp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33958 [article]

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New multifunctional hydrotropic surfactants with excellent performance / Alexander T. Wagner in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 10 (10/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 10 (10/2016) . - p. 4-8 Titre : New multifunctional hydrotropic surfactants with excellent performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur ; Armin Bach, Auteur ; Stefanie Wehler, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 4-8 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anticorrosion Composés hydrotropes Emulsifiants Formulation (Génie chimique) Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Nowadays raw materials for cleaner formulations not only have to perform well, but also are expected to have additional benefits. For example, the water-solubility of sparingly soluble nonionic surfactants in alkaline formulations can be enhanced by adding classical hydrotropes. On the other hand, to generate an additional value — a higher cleaning performance — these hydrotropes must be replaced by hydrotropic surfactants. Two new developments from ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ — ZUSOTEC SE 300 and ZUSOTEC CP 160 — are excellent hydrotropic surfactants with even more benefits (multifunctionality). ZUSOTEC SE 300 is based completely on renewable raw material and a powerful emulsifier for oils of different polarity. ZUSOTEC CP 160 is an outstanding anti-corrosion agent in acidic formulations. Note de contenu : 1. Basic information 2. New multifunctional hydrotopic surfactants 3. Zusotec SE 300 and Zusotec CP 160 : properties : Hydrotopic effects - Foam - Zusotec SE 300 as multi-purpose emulsifier - Zusotec CP 160 as anti-corrosion agent 4. Ideas for formulations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2gKtDP_oKKxttp7N6Wx4Wypm6MZWvw3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27691 [article]

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Powerful surfactants from renewable raw materials / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 2 (04/2016)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 9, N° 2 (04/2016) . - p. 34-36 Titre : Powerful surfactants from renewable raw materials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 34-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras Cosmétiques Glutamique, Acide L'acide glutamique ou glutamate (la forme anionique de l'acide glutamique) est l'un des 20 acides-α-aminés naturels constituant les protéines. Sa chaîne latérale contient un résidu carboxyle, ce qui en fait un acide aminé « acide », dicarboxylique, polaire. Ressources renouvelables Solutions aqueuses (chimie) Surfactants Surfactants -- Biodégradation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : All surfactants of the Protelan- and Sebumol-Series are completely based on natural building blocks (fatty acids, amino acids and glycerol) and their derivatives and are easily biodegradable. Besides the sarcosinate- and glycinate-derivatives (Protelan LS 9011, Protelan GC, Protelan GG, one ingredient in Sebumol S 1000) the surfactants of ail Protelan- and Sebumol Types are completely based on renewable raw materials. Protelan AG 915 5F is a solvent-free product that fulfills all facets of the requirement profile mentioned in the introduction. All components are part of the human metabolism. The fatty acids and the glutamic acid are completely based on renewable raw materials and the product is easily biodegradable. Note de contenu : - Aqueous surfactant solutions - Water-free surfactants and surfactant mixtures - FIGURES : 1. Acyl/sarcosinate and acyl glycinate. The hydrogen at the amide nitrogen enables acyl glycinates to create intermolecular hydrogen bondings - 2. Sebumol PCA ester - 3. Hydrophobic 'coatin' by alkyl chains prevents agglomeration - 5. Creamy eye shadow prepared without and with Sebumol ODPC - 6. More dense arrangement of emulsifiers by using blends -> more stable emulsion - 7. Blooming bath effects En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SRfrPXFbyM5elBW6xBl7hhmNZPvbox6o/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26031 [article]

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Sulfate-free surfactants : what about sulfonates ? / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 61-65 Titre : Sulfate-free surfactants : what about sulfonates ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 61-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Sulfates -- Suppression ou remplacement Sulfoacétates Sulfonates Sulfosuccinates Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sulfate-free or not sulfate-free? That is the question when customers are studying the INCI list of personal care products and find ingredients like surfactants based on sulfoacetates or sulfosuccinates. In fact, the discussion linked to that question is rather fruitless but one by one.... Conversations with customers show that the demand for sulfate-free cleansing products is growing more and more. Surfactant producers follow this trend and increasingly aim to develop sulfate-free surfactants. Additionally, already existing suitable products are claimed as sulfate-free. Of course there is no question that sulfur-free surfactants like for instance the mild and natural based Zschimmer & Schwarz Protelan- and Sebumol-Types (hydrophilic groups: amino acids or their derivatives and polyglycerol)' are sulfate-free. In discussions, the clarity in answering the question "sulfate-free or not sulfate-free?" disappears often in that moment when sulfur-containing surfactants like sulfonates corne into play. Therefore, in the following we will focus on sulfoacetates and sulfosuccinates as prominent representatives of sulfonate surfactants used in personal care applications. The perspectives that we take at first are driven by the chemistry followed by the application. Note de contenu : - Chemical perspective - Mildness of surfactants - Why sulfonates as replacement for sulfate surfactants - Products based on alkyl sulfosuccinates and/or alkyl sulfoacetates - Zschimmer & Schwarz sulfonate surfactants in detail - Foam and viscosity in sulfoacetate sulfosuccinate based surfactant system : Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate - Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate - Special application of sulfoacetate/sulfosuccinate surfactants : colour protection - FIGURES : 1. Alkyl sulfate and alkyl ether sulfate (≥ 1) : C-O-S bonds - 2. Alkyl(ether) sulfosuccinate and alkyl sulfoacetate : C-S bonds - 3. Hydrogen sulfite - 4. Inorganic sulfate - 5. Different location of the sulfo-group : top and middle : sulfo-groups next to ester groups : "methyl-bridge" between sulfo- and ester groups - 6. Mean index of ocular irritation (test results : Z&S) : SLS : Sodium lauryl sulfate, SLES (2 EO) : sodium laureth-2-sulfate, CAPB : cocamido propyl betaine, indicated ration : related to active matter - 7. Patch test on human skin (test results Institute for Skin and Product Evaluation) A. m. : Active matter - 8. Viscosity behaviour of the formulation based on Lumoral K5601 - 9. Colour protection (different dye stuffs) by different shampoos, SLES : Sodium laureth sulfate, CAPB : cocamido propyl betaine - TABLES : 1. Shampoo formulation baed on Lumoral K 5019 - 2. Body wash formulation based on Lumoral K 5601 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YPaq84P1RxDO207khb5sdxsCv2WGs5ti/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30449 [article]

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Surfactants with strong anti-corrosion properties / Armin Bach in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 58-62 Titre : Surfactants with strong anti-corrosion properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Armin Bach, Auteur ; Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur ; Stefanie Wehler, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 58-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anticorrosion Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Metals played a key role in the history of mankind ever since. The naming of special periods in history (e.g. the bronze age, the iron age) reflects this high importance. In modern society metals are still very important. A serious challenge with regard to metals is the damage by corrosion, particularly when metals get into contact with strong acids or alkalis which are often used in professional metal cleaning processes. Hence, the protection of metals is strongly recommended. Note de contenu : - Corrosion protection by surfactants - Solubility of ZUSOTEC CP types - ZUSOTEC CP types : anti-corrosion properties - Aesthetic aspects - Zinc as protective coating : A) Test method : Hydrogen formation as indicator for corrosion - B) Test method : Mass low - Additional properties of ZUSOTEC CP types - FIGURES : 1. Prevention of corrosion processes by adsorbed surfactants - 2. Chemical structure of ZUSOTEC CP types - 3. Foaming power of ZUSOTEC CP 100 and ZUSOTEC CP 160 - 4. Surface defects after 1 min exposure to acidic cleaner - 5. Zinc plates without and with corrosion protection by ZUSOTEC CP types - 6. Bubble counter (smplified) to test corrosion protection - 7. Effectiveness of ZUSOTEC CP types as anti-corrosion additives for zinc - 8. Effectiveness of ZUSOTEC CP 100 as anti-corrosion additive for zinc, blank : water + acid En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xdzUDNXSEaDqQkQ2mHUC6jNQSmKg4nKd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30428 [article]

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Syndet cleansing bars : the better 'soap' ? / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

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