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Skin and hair colour shaped by colourless carotenoids / Liki von Oppen-Bezalel in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 2 (04/2016)
[article]
Titre : Skin and hair colour shaped by colourless carotenoids Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 94-95 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antioxydants
Biomolécules actives
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Décoloration
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PhotoprotectionIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The results for skin confirmed the ability of phytoene and phytofluene to reduce immediately redness and lighten the skin tone as well as excellent actives for anti-ageing, photo-ageing, lightening, wrinkle reduction and skin protection. The actives product family fit very well with the 'beauty from the inside and out and outside in' trend with its product platform that includes dietary ingredient and topical extracts rich with phytoene and phytofluene.
As a protector of hair colour, IBR-TCLC has been shown to have excellent ability to prevent sun-induced fading while also contributing to a brighter overall appearance.
The range of potentiel applications for the IBR-Phyto(flu)ene series of ingredients is vast and enables formulators to bridge natural-derived cosmetics with the increasing demand for skin protection products.Note de contenu : - Mechanics of skin colour
- Protection of hair from sun-induced colour fading
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QzwgOYPyI-Q1SA_hRL-kHHjgVv4FQYu1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26040
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 9, N° 2 (04/2016) . - p. 94-95[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17938 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin anti-ageing properties of a microalga extract / Giorgio Dell'Acqua in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)
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Titre : Skin anti-ageing properties of a microalga extract Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Auteur ; Francesca Germani, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires
Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Collagène -- Synthèse
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microalgae are considered to be single-cell factories. When cultivated in bioreactors, they consistently produce a sustainable and safe biomass through an optimal photosynthesis process, where culture media, pH, temperature, nutrients, and levels of dissolved oxygen and CO2 are strictly controlled. The biomass is rich in active ingredients with healthy benefits, including sugars, amino acids, lipids, polyphenols and vitamins.
While the lipidic fraction of microalgae has found applications in biofuels and nutritional supplements, the additional presence in the water-fraction of high levels of carbohydrates, amino acids and polyphenols has supported the use of microalgae extracts in cosmetics as well, specifically for their antioxidant, antiinflammatory, moisturising, lightening and antiageing properties.
Moreover, by cultivating microalgae and controlling their growth as well as their content, it is possible to produce functional actives sustainably and reproducibly. This optimised process reduces the need for a wild source, and is therefore more sustainable and also cleaner because there is no risk of pollutants.
We cultivated a specific Nannochloropsis microalga from the North Sea, Nannochloropsis Granulata, in controlled and optimised conditions. This microalga, which was first identified in the mid-1990s,6 has a high photosynthetic efficiency, with a large biomass. While the lipid component of the microalga is usually directed towards the nutritional supply chain, the remaining water-soluble fraction is mostly viewed as a by-product and wasted.
Because of its value, we extracted the watersoluble fraction containing sugars, amino acids and polyphenols, and concentrated it in an active ingredient for topical use. We then tested the capacity of the product, whose trade name is Akosky Vanity (INCI : Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Nannochloropsis Granulata Extract), to reduce skin ageing, specifically its ability to stimulate collagen production in cell lines and to increase skin firmness and elasticity in healthy volunteers when applied in a finished formulation.Note de contenu : - Extract preparation & analysis
- In vitro testing
- Clinical study
- Statistical analysisEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J0gLOYC7vCogCLrybRodOfqivXckHuyP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37231
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 35-37[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23178 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin anti-aging repair and prevent with ganoderma peptides / Mihaela Gorcea in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)
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Titre : Skin anti-aging repair and prevent with ganoderma peptides Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mihaela Gorcea, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 28-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Facial skin is permanently exposed to UV radiation, pollution, and environmental stress, which leads to oxidative and cellular damage. Oxidative stress is one of the main factors of premature skin aging characterized by loss of firmness and elasticity resulting in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and a rougher skin texture. Chronological aging triggers disordered deposition of collagen and elastin fibers which causes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The facial periorbital area (skin around the eyes) is one of the skin sites where the first signs of aging can appear. This skin site is very thin, delicate, and more prone to ageing compared to all other facial areas and requires special care. NaturePep® Ganoderma, part of TRI-K’s NaturePep® Natural Peptides platform, is targeted to the skin around the eyes (specifically crow’s feet) to provide multifunctional skin anti-aging benefits and help repair and prevent skin damage from intrinsic and extrinsic aging. In vitro study results confirm that Ganoderma peptides help repair skin dermal degradation by stimulating the synthesis of extracellular matrix and glycosaminoglycan components, ensuring proper 3D conformational structure, and cross-linking of the collagen fibers, while preventing oxidative and cellular damage caused by chronological aging, UV exposure, pollution, and environmental stress. Clinical efficacy studies prove that Ganoderma peptides reduce crow’s feet wrinkles, skin roughness, and dark spots after only 14 days of treatment, and continue to improve such benefits after 28 days of treatment to create a youthful skin appearance with an even complexion. Note de contenu : - TECHNICAL BACKGROUND
- METHODS : Gene expression assay - Measurement parameters
- IN VIVO CLINICAL STUDY RESULTS : Anti-wrinkle effect on crow's feet : reduction of wrinkle volume and surface area - Smoothing effect on crow's feet - Dark spot reduction - Consumer self-assessmentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10nkyLvxaFaNO4eqEW7sbNWRBzVfvc_9m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38576
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 28-32[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23772 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin improvement and stability of Echinacea purpurea dermatological formulations / S. Yotsawimonwat in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 32, N° 5 (10/2010)
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Titre : Skin improvement and stability of Echinacea purpurea dermatological formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Yotsawimonwat, Auteur ; J. Rattanadechsakul, Auteur ; P. Rattanadechsakul, Auteur ; S. Okonogi, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 340-346 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Peau -- Inflammation
Peau -- Rides
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Echinacea Purpurea contient beaucoup d′ingrédients favorables à la protection de la peau contre le stress oxidatif et à l′hydratation de la peau. Cette étude a pour objectif d′explorer la stabilité et l’efficacité dermatologique de la crème et du gel d′E. purpurea. De l'extrait d'Echinacea purpurea a été incorporé dans des bases appropriées de crème et de gel. La stabilité de l'extrait dans les compositions a été explorée en déterminant son contenu résiduel en phénol total et son activité antioxidative après conservation à 4°C, 30°C et 40°C pendant 6 mois. L'effet de ces compositions à l'irritation de la peau, le degré d′hydratation et la réduction de rides a été évalué sur 10 volontaires en bonne santé, agés de 25 à 40 ans. La durabilité de E. purpurea crème et gel concernant le contenu en phénol et l'activité antioxidative a été seulement de 2 à 4 mois corrélativement à 4°C et a pu être augmentée à 7 mois par l'incorporation d′un conditionnement d′α– tocophérol ou de disodium editate. Le degré d'hydratation de la peau a augmenté à 10.6 AU et 11.4 AU et les rides ont diminué de 9,47 % et 14,92 % à la suite de l′application de la crème et du gel pour un mois. Les deux compositions n’ont pas montré d`irritations de la peau. Echinacea purpurea crème et gel, développés dans le cadre de cette étude ont été efficaces pour améliorer l`hydratation de la peau et diminuer les rides, mais ont montré une faible stabilité de conservation. DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00559.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00559.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10133
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 32, N° 5 (10/2010) . - p. 340-346[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 012554 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance / Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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Titre : Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi, Auteur ; Hamid Reza Moghimi, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 232-248 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antiâge:Antirides
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
PerméationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. As peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products.
- Method : In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.
- Results : Most anti-wrinkle peptides are not appropriate candidates for skin permeation and the use of enhancement methods is essential to increase their permeability. To do so, only some permeability enhancement approaches have been applied so far, including chemical modification with hydrophobic moieties or cell penetrating peptides, metal complexation, chemical permeation enhancers, iontophoresis, microneedles, and encapsulation in nanocarriers. The results of studies published on the skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides carnosine, GHK, PKEK, GEKG, GQPR, and KTTKS indicate that the skin permeability of these peptides can be successfully increased.
- Conclusion : Although the skin permeability of most anti-wrinkle peptides is not high enough and most anti-wrinkle peptides might not reach their targets in the skin at right concentrations, their permeability can be increased to therapeutic concentrations using various enhancement approaches.Note de contenu : - CHEMICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Chemical modification - Chemical permeation enhancers - Metal complexation
- PHYSICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Microneedle - Iontophoresis
- ENCAPSULATION OF ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES INTO LIPID-BASED NANOCARRIERS : Phospholipid-based vesicular nanocarriers - Liquid crystal nanoparticles - Microemulsions
- Table 1. The sequence, MW and calculated log P (clog P) of parent anti-wrinkle peptides
- Table 2. A summary of anti-wrinkle peptides that have been subjected to skin permeation enhancement methodsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12770 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OPFFmRy4IsO51kcID7Z92478Qh90ZCZF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37725
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 232-248[article]Skin tightening boosted in anti-ageing applications / Ingrid Vervier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)
PermalinkSkincare : uniting clinical proof with perception / Harald van der Hoeven in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 7 (07/2022)
PermalinkLa slow beauty : la solution bien-être / Marie Laurent in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2017)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkSoins anti-âge / Anne-Caroline Renard in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 49 (01-02/2018)
PermalinkA solution for pollution-induced ageing of skin / Kazal Boron Biswas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)
PermalinkLes sophorolipides : actif contre le vieillissement cutané / Frédérique Borzeix Conçaix in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 129 (06-07/1996)
PermalinkDu sourcing maîtrisé de la rose bulgare à l'actif "bien vieillir" / Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2017)
PermalinkSoybean extract showed modulation of retinoic acid-related gene expression of skin and photo-protective effects in keratinocytes / N.-H. Park in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 35, N° 2 (04/2013)
PermalinkSphingolipid promotes multilayer skin communication / Petra Biehl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (09/2012)
PermalinkPermalinkLa spiruline, vers une élasticité durable / Lucie Fontaine in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (11/2011)
PermalinkStabilised Potentilla polyphenols fight skin ageing / Julie Droux in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)
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