Conditioning by cationic polymers on Asian hair / Xin Qu in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 5 (09/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 5 (09/2014) . - p. 81-85 Titre : Conditioning by cationic polymers on Asian hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Xin Qu, Auteur ; Amy Zhang, Auteur ; Bernice Niu, Auteur ; Eric Peng, Auteur ; Flora Wu, Auteur ; Tuttu Nuutinen, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur ; Linda Foltis, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 81-85 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Polymères cationiques Polymères en émulsion Produits capillaires Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cationic polymers and silicone oils are key ingredients in conditioning shampoo. The conditioning performance reflects the distribution of the cationic polymers and silicone oils deposited along the hair fibre through coacervation during the shampoo rinsing stage. Many parameters, such as polymer types, molecular weight, cationic charges density, type of silicone emulsion and hair surface damage level, will affect the deposition and conditioning performance. In this study, we have systematically explored the coacervate formation, silicone deposition, and hair wet combing force reduction of the shampoo samples with three cationic polymers (polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and a mixture of GHPTC and acryamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer) and three silicone emulsions (small-particle silicone, large particle silicone and amodimethicone) on Asian undamaged and bleached hair. The mechanism for the difference in deposition and conditioning performance among the samples are discussed and interpreted. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTS : 1. Hair samples - 2. Conditioning polymers and silicones - 3. Sample evaluations - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : 1. Coacervate formation - 2. Silicone deposition on undamaged Asian hair - 3. Silicone deposition on bleached Asian hair - 4. Hair tip-root silicone selectivity - 5. Contact angle measurement - 6. Wet combing force - 7. Silicone deposition mechanism En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QKr7b9VrWMgfLpSshkEvg-EkYjkqxYTl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22029 [article]

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Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis / Roger L. McMullen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 375-390 Titre : Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; Donna Laura, Auteur ; Guojin Zhang, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 375-390 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Cocamidopropyl bétaine Cosmétiques Electrocinétique (effets d'interface) Gomme de guar La gomme de guar est extraite de la graine de la légumineuse Cyamopsis tetragonoloba, où elle sert de réserve d'aliments et d'eau. La gomme de guar est composée principalement de galactomannane, une fibre végétale soluble et acalorique. Le galactomannane est un polymère linéaire composé d'une chaine de monomères de mannose ((1,4)-beta-D-mannopyranose) auxquelles sont ramifiés par un pont 1-6 une unité de galactose. Le ratio entre le mannose et le galactose est de 2 pour 1, ainsi en moyenne une unité de galactose est ramifié tous les deux mannose sur la chaine. Par comparaison, il est de 4 pour 1 pour la gomme de caroube et 3 pour 1 pour la gomme tara. La gomme de guar est un additif alimentaire (E4124) largement utilisé dans l'industrie agro-alimentaire. Elle permet notamment d'alléger certaines préparations en remplaçant le rôle de l'amidon, de sucres ou de matières grasses. La gomme de guar est utilisée comme épaississant, stabilisant et émulsifiant dans les aliments grâce à sa texture uniforme et ses propriétés pour former des gels. Elle peut être utilisée dans les sauces, soupes, crèmes glacées et sorbets, produits de boulangerie et de pâtisserie, poudres, etc. Laureth sulfate de sodium Polymères cationiques Potentiel zeta shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined. - Methods : All experiments were carried out with a custom-designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real-time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants—sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)—commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations. - Results : The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium-28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair. - Conclusion : We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Cationic guar variants - Electrokinetic permeability analysis - Mechanical measurements of combing force - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Zeta potential of hair - Hair treated with a conventional cationic surfactant - Hair treated with a conventional cationic copolymer - Hair treated with cationic guar - Influence of CD and MW on cationic guar deposition - Mechanical wet combing analysis of hair treated with cationic guar derivatives - Behaviour of cationic guar on different types of hair - Conductivity and pH of the streaming potential solution - Table 1 : Viscosity, CD, trade name and designation of the cationic guar variants investigated in this study. Unless otherwise indicated, viscosity measurements were conducted on 1% (w/w) solutions of the polymers - Table 2 : Calculated thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer according to Equation 2. Data are provided in µm DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12704 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15-tN68MsY8ahVox5SPuPv9GtRrHcxCcC/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36673 [article]

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Sustainable solutions for hair care / Michael Franzke in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 38-44 Titre : Sustainable solutions for hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Franzke, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur ; Tuttu Nuutinen, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Lidia Kulcsar, Auteur ; Coralie Alonso, Auteur ; David Streuli, Auteur ; Anthony Luschen, Auteur ; Penny Antonopoulos, Auteur ; Xin Qu, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Mousse (chimie) Produits capillaires Produits coiffants Rhéologie shampooings Surfactants Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustainability is an area which is permanently growing in importance. Therefore, there is also a growing demand for environmentally conscious cosmetic products. The current article summarizes a series of solutions for hair care that fit this market need applying different concepts. A snapshot of varying hair care formulation concepts – shampoos, conditioners, and hair styling – with different strategies to help improve sustainability profiles for the different product types is presented. Examples include cellulose derivatives that help to reduce raw material use like surfactants in shampoos or conditioners while maintaining the original level of performance. Guar derivatives improve deposition of natural oil or anti dandruff actives on hair and scalp thus optimizing the benefits of such ingredients. Biodegradable guars can also be used in styling products creating high performing systems, with long-lasting hold. Note de contenu : - SUSTAINABLE APPROACHES FOR SHAMPOO : Reducing surfactant by adding methylhydroxypropylcellulose - Guars, nature-derived materials for optimized deposition - IMPROVING SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE OF RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS : Hair mousse - Table 1 : Sulfate-free surfactant formula w HPMC for foam study - Table 2 : Effect of HPMC in reducing Interleukin1-alpha release in sulfate-free formula - Table 3 : Mousse Formulations - Fig. 1 : Foam profile sulfate-free surfactant mix with HPMC vs commercial sulfate-based shampoo - Fig. 2 : Diluted commercial AD w. Guar large flocs formed and AD prototype with Guar Nhance BF 13 small flocs formed - Fig. 3 : Viscosity profile of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Using Serrated parallel plates (50 mm), 25 deg C, Controlled shear stress, Bohlin Rheometer. All Conditioners were made using identical process, same ageing time - Fig. 4 : Wet and dry sensory assessment of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Test Mannequin heads with damaged hair. - Fig. 5 : High humidity curl retention of aqueous Styleze ES-1 solutions in comparison to Aqueous PQ-4 solutions. Cond: 90% rel. Hum./25°C - Fig. 6 : Stylezeâ„¢ ES-1 delivers long term (48-hour) styling benefits vs. PQ-4 mousse - Fig. 7 : Tack measurement of Stylezeâ„¢ ES-1 and PQ-4 with texture analyzer - Formulation 1 : Base formulation conditioner En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15GWzyaeN4T0a7gkqNszcvryvubAdcrLK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33826 [article]

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Visual methods demonstrate colour protection / Lidia Kulcsar in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018) . - p. 91-94 Titre : Visual methods demonstrate colour protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lidia Kulcsar, Auteur ; Germain Puccetti, Auteur ; Penny Antonopoulos, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 91-94 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux -- Teinture Cosmétiques Essais (technologie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Imagerie (technique) Produits capillaires shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For many women, hair colour is an important part of their beauty routine. Women have been using a variety of approaches to cover up their greys. Today, hair colour is used to generate a myriad of results ... from achieving flawless coverage from root-to-tip to creating vibrant rainbow tresses. As women age, the desire to look younger by covering grey hair (a sign of ageing) has been the main driver for using permanent (oxidative) hair colour. The appeal of the vibrant, bold, fashion hair colours has driven the use of temporary and semi-permanent hair colours. But colour fading is a concern for both permanent and temporary/semi-permanent hair dyes, as they tend to fade fast, and often off-shade. Note de contenu : - Hyperspectral imaging : a new technique to show colour protection - Visia -CR imaging - Test method - Table 1 : Shampoo formula. All ingredients are listed at % active level - Table 2 : Conditioner formula. All ingredients are listed at % active level - Table 3 : Composition of permanent hair dyes used for colouring, as listed on the product labels for each product - Fig. 1 : Visia-Cr image of hair after 12 washes. Hair was dyes with Clairol Texture and Tones Red - Fig. 2 : Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair dyed with Clairal Texture and Tones Red Hot Red 4R ad washed 12 times - Fig. 3 : Visia-CR image of hair after 12 washes. Hair was dyed with l'Oreal Excellence Medium Golden Brown 5G - Fig. 4 : Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair dyed with l'Oreal Excellence Medium Golden Brown 5G - Fig. 5 : Visia-CR image of hair after 12 washes. Hair was dyed with Igora Royal Light Brown Violet Extra - 5.99 - Fig. 6 : Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair dyed with Igora Royal Light Brown Violet Extra - 5.99 - Fig. 7 : Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair tress dyed with Manic Panic Semi-Permanent Hair Color Cream - Wildfire, and washed 5 times - Fig. 8 : Visia Cr image of hair tresses dyed with Manic Panic Semi-Permanent Hair Color Cream - Wildfire - Fig. 9 : Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair tress dyed with ion Color Brillance Gemstones Brights semi-permanent hair color - Tanzanite an washed 5 times - Fig. 10 : Visia Cr image of hair tresses dyed with ion Color Brillance Gemstones Brights semi-permanent hair color - Tanzanite En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vLwvdr-QQ5X4yDm3APvgPGYUWLz71xbD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31292 [article]

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