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Biologically inspired fighting germs using HCIO hydrogels with smectites / Jessica Gödeker in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Biologically inspired fighting germs using HCIO hydrogels with smectites Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jessica Gödeker, Auteur ; Anne Drewer, Auteur ; Tom Lamont, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide hypochloreux Argile Chlore Désinfectants Désinfection Détergents Formulation (Génie chimique) Hectorite hydrocolloïdes Hygiène Laponite Rhéologie Smectite Thixotropie Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Hypochlorous acid (HClO) is formed in the white blood cells of all mammals. As part of a mechanism that developed several millions of years ago, it also helps the human body to protect against pathogens that enter it. This makes the weak acid a nature-based option for disinfection. Despite this, a disadvantage of water-thin solutions of hypochlorous acid is that they have significantly limited anti-microbial potential due to the reduced contact time. Hydrogels overcome this limitation and lead to improved and more sustainable use. Due to the high reactivity of hypochlorous acid, common additives such as polymer thickeners and natural clays are not suitable. Synthetic smectite clays – of which the presented PURABYK-R 5500 is one example – are very similar in structure to natural clays. However, due to their subsequent technical development, synthetic smectite clays exhibit better stability and are therefore very well suited to forming these hydrogels. They stabilize the hypochlorous acid in the required pH value range and are free from components that impair the activity of HClO. These unique additives are produced under controlled conditions from naturally occurring inorganic mineral sources. They offer the possibility of using structures from nature, paired with a very high purity and consistent quality. Their great potential is presented here using PURABYK-R 5500 as an example. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Hypochlorous acid - an effective nature-based weapon for combatting germs - HCIO-based hydrogels - a challenging system - PURABYK-R 5500 - a new, modified phyllosilicate with improved compatibility - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Formulation of the hydrogel with PURABYK-R 5500 - A more in-depth reflection - high-resolution procedure for forming the nanostructures - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Micro- and macro-morphology using TEM and AFM - Viscosity behavior of the hydrogel - thixotropy and yield point - Biocide effectiveness - influence of PURABYK-R 5500 - Table 1 : Formulation of the hydrogel En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zGfLvdCzX9ayCPFPutQAIz8mnUSThkhg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38571 [article]

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Cellulose fibrils in spray cleaners / Sondre Lomeland in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 8-11 Titre : Cellulose fibrils in spray cleaners : a high-performing sustainable rheology additive Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sondre Lomeland, Auteur ; Rosasilvia Raggio, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 8-11 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epaississants Fibres cellulosiques Produits nettoyants Vaporisateurs Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Sustainability is a word we have gotten more and more familiar with during the last few years. Adapting formulations to meet the market demand for more environmentally friendly products is challenging and requires the introduction of new technology. Presented is Exilva cellulose fibrils, a robust rheology modifier that can effectively improve spray cleaning formulations, and still being sustainable, biobased, biodegradable and microplastic free. High viscosity at rest can be developed, while remaining a free-flowing liquid upon application. The benefits of the rheology additive are improved anti-sagging and anti-dripping properties, compatibility with surfactants, even at high loading, stability in high salt concentrations and high ionic strength. The cellulose fibrils are stable in high and low pH. To demonstrate the benefits, acid cleaner formulations with phosphoric acid at pH 1 have been prepared. The effect of replacing another rheology additive with Exilva, the compatibility with surfactants, and performance on rusted tiles is demonstrated. The results show that sustainable solutions do not have to compromise performance.  En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vl4DBYDNlWnwJd0a1J6W5u_9orv2cXjZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38572 [article]

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Oxidation stability - a new holistic approach for cosmetic product protection / Marcella Stockstrom in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 12-18 Titre : Oxidation stability - a new holistic approach for cosmetic product protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marcella Stockstrom, Auteur ; Alexander Thiemann, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 12-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Emulsifiants Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Oxydation -- Stabilité Palmitate d'ascorbyl Synergie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulators are facing new challenges when protecting oil-containing systems such as cosmetic O/W (oil suspended in water) emulsions against oxidative deterioration. These challenges are a result of both growing consumer awareness of sustainability and the increased use of natural raw materials. As a result, planning cosmetic formulation concepts is becoming increasingly complex. The remedy of choice against lipid oxidation is the use of antioxidant systems, such as tocopherols. An initial prerequisite for their targeted and careful use in cosmetic formulations is reliable analysis of their antioxidant efficacy. Unlike the requirements for the formulator, current measurement methods do not reflect the conditions of a product’s life-cycle associated with cosmetics. A method developed by Evonik for testing oxidative stability can overcome this. This method is based on measuring oxygen levels above the formulation, within a closed system and under conditions relevant to cosmetics. In this study, we investigated the product-protective efficacy of certain antioxidant products (dermofeel® Toco 70 non GMO, dermofeel® TocoBalance, dermofeel® AP MB) in O/W emulsions with different emulsifier systems (dermofeel® GSC SG and Distearyldimonium Chloride and symbio®muls GC MB). The results exemplify our ability to assist formulators in their planning and raw material selection by providing precise information on system-dependent efficacies, consisting of interactions, synergies, but also pro-oxidative effects. Note de contenu : - The challenges of oxidative product protection - Test methods for the formulator with regard to lipid oxidation - Results : Investigation of tocopherols as a protective system against oxidation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dNQYLZJpgSXFLcm8h2mhoVTte55IE6P6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38573 [article]

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360° - When functional ingredients meet formula protection / Stefania Zanzottera in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 20-22 Titre : 360° - When functional ingredients meet formula protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefania Zanzottera, Auteur ; Federica Carlomagno, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 20-22 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Cosmétiques -- Conservation Essais (technologie) Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : All ingredients in a cosmetic formula can influence, positively or negatively, the degree of possible contamination of a product by external microorganisms. What if a key ingredient like a surfactant could also help the preservation system and act as a multifunctional ? What if it's also mild, comfortable on the skin and natural-derived ? Result : 360° of safety ! Note de contenu : - Preservation strategies - Surfactants - Experiments and results - Conclusion - 360° formula protection - Table 1 : Ingredient list En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15-PmysyTceSDxRF7mXIhhU5KjLh6sRVP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38574 [article]

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Sustainable alternatives to mineral and silicone oils within the reach of cosmetic formulators / Lorraine Denois in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 24-26 Titre : Sustainable alternatives to mineral and silicone oils within the reach of cosmetic formulators Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorraine Denois, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 24-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Biomatériaux Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Huiles minérales -- Produits de remplacement Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustainability in the beauty and personal care market has been rising for many years and challenges cosmetic formulators. New generations of oils, launched recently, differing by their manufacturing process and their origin are now alternatives to mineral oils and silicone oils for a more environmentally friendly cosmetics industry. With its EMOGREEN™ range, Seppic offers a new generation of inert emollients, both biobased and above all biodegradable, in line with the trend for beauty oils with elaborated and attractive/appealing textures that are increasingly appreciated by consumers Note de contenu : - Consumer requests for responsible ingredients - Performance first ! - Innovative and versatile ingredients for performing and sensorial cosmetic products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17-3IJPHh9FFEUSPe9ThbQerYUXLuJPCb/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38575 [article]

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Skin anti-aging repair and prevent with ganoderma peptides / Mihaela Gorcea in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 28-32 Titre : Skin anti-aging repair and prevent with ganoderma peptides Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mihaela Gorcea, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 28-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Facial skin is permanently exposed to UV radiation, pollution, and environmental stress, which leads to oxidative and cellular damage. Oxidative stress is one of the main factors of premature skin aging characterized by loss of firmness and elasticity resulting in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and a rougher skin texture. Chronological aging triggers disordered deposition of collagen and elastin fibers which causes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The facial periorbital area (skin around the eyes) is one of the skin sites where the first signs of aging can appear. This skin site is very thin, delicate, and more prone to ageing compared to all other facial areas and requires special care. NaturePep® Ganoderma, part of TRI-K’s NaturePep® Natural Peptides platform, is targeted to the skin around the eyes (specifically crow’s feet) to provide multifunctional skin anti-aging benefits and help repair and prevent skin damage from intrinsic and extrinsic aging. In vitro study results confirm that Ganoderma peptides help repair skin dermal degradation by stimulating the synthesis of extracellular matrix and glycosaminoglycan components, ensuring proper 3D conformational structure, and cross-linking of the collagen fibers, while preventing oxidative and cellular damage caused by chronological aging, UV exposure, pollution, and environmental stress. Clinical efficacy studies prove that Ganoderma peptides reduce crow’s feet wrinkles, skin roughness, and dark spots after only 14 days of treatment, and continue to improve such benefits after 28 days of treatment to create a youthful skin appearance with an even complexion. Note de contenu : - TECHNICAL BACKGROUND - METHODS : Gene expression assay - Measurement parameters - IN VIVO CLINICAL STUDY RESULTS : Anti-wrinkle effect on crow's feet : reduction of wrinkle volume and surface area - Smoothing effect on crow's feet - Dark spot reduction - Consumer self-assessment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10nkyLvxaFaNO4eqEW7sbNWRBzVfvc_9m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38576 [article]

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A glabridin-enriched licorice extract demonstrates multifunction skin benefits in vitro / Avani Mainkar in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 34-38 Titre : A glabridin-enriched licorice extract demonstrates multifunction skin benefits in vitro Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Avani Mainkar, Auteur ; Debajyoti Mukherjee, Auteur ; Anuja Tabrej, Auteur ; Pranjali Dhawal, Auteur ; Kedar Vaze, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 34-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Facteur de protection solaire Glabridine La glabridine est un composé chimique qui se trouve dans l'extrait de racine de réglisse (Glycyrrhiza glabra). La glabridine est un isoflavane , un type d'isoflavonoïde. Ce produit fait partie d'une plus grande famille de molécules d'origine végétale, les phénols naturels. Elle est utilisée comme ingrédient dans les cosmétiques et est répertoriée dans la Nomenclature internationale des ingrédients cosmétiques (INCI). La glabridine est une poudre brun jaunâtre. Elle est insoluble dans l'eau, mais soluble dans les solvants organiques tels que le propylène glycol. (Wikipedia) Inhibiteurs (chimie) Mélanine Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Réglisse La Réglisse ou Réglisse glabre, du grec γλυκύρριζα1(Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) est une plante vivace de la famille des Fabacées, de la sous-famille des Faboideae, aux racines aromatiques. Elle est originaire du sud de l'Europe et de l'Asie. La réglisse, parfois appelée le réglisse, par métonymie, désigne aussi la racine de cette plante, utilisée en pharmacie et en confiserie. La réglisse est une plante herbacée mesurant entre 1 mètre et 1,5 mètre de haut. Ses racines forment des rhizomes. Elle a de grandes feuilles pennées, de 7 à 15 centimètres de long, composées de 9 à 17 folioles, et de petites fleurs violettes d'un centimètre de diamètre, disposées en inflorescence. Son fruit est une gousse plate, de deux à 3 cm de long, il contient de nombreuses graines. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIVE: Pigmentary disorders (freckles, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation) are common in Asian Skin Types III-V occurring as a consequence of ultraviolet (UV) insult, oxidative stress, pollution, and changes in hormonal levels.. With the increasing demand for natural and safe ingredients in cosmetics to treat pigmentary disorders, phytocompounds are gaining attention. One such phytoactive is glabridin, obtained from the popular plant Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice). In the present study, GlyciBright®, a stable and standardized, 5% glabridin-enriched extract, was developed and tested for in vitro antioxidative, UV protection, SPF, and melanin reduction activity.  METHODS: Glabridin-enriched licorice root extract (GlyciBright®) was prepared by a multistep process and glabridin content was quantified using HPLC. GlyciBright® was evaluated for skin care activities viz., antioxidant activity by ABTS, theoretical Sun Protection Factor (SPF) by measuring UV-B (290-320nm) absorbance using UV-Vis spectrophotometer, tyrosinase inhibition, melanin reduction in mice melanoma cells (B16F10), and photoprotection on human dermal fibroblasts (HDF),  RESULTS: GlyciBright® showed ABTS scavenging activity with an IC50 value of 51µg/ml. The IC50 for tyrosinase inhibition was observed at 20µg/ml and a 41% reduction in melanin was found at 15µg/ml in the B16F10 cell line. GlyciBright® showed no toxicity effects up to 100µg/ml (IC50), reversed the cytotoxic effect of UV-B on HDF, and demonstrated a theoretical SPF of 37 at 250µg/ml.  CONCLUSION: GlyciBright® shows prominent antioxidant, UV-B protective, and skin-brightening activity attributed to the active ingredient glabridin. Based on these activities, it is postulated to offer protection against hyperpigmentation and UV-induced skin damage implicated in pigmentary disorders. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of standardized licorice extract glyciBright - standareization of GlyciBright using RP-HPLC - Stability testing og GlyciBright as per ICH guidelines - Estimation of antioxidant potential by ABTS (2,2-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothialzoline-6sulfonic acid) assay - In-vitro SPF activity using a spectrophotometric scan from 290-320 nm - In-vitro anti-tyrosinase activity - Cytotoxic effects of GlyciBright on B16F10 cell line and determination of melanin content - Estimation of UV-B photoprotection activity - RESULTS : HPLC of GlyciBright - estimation of antioxidant potential by ABTS assay - SPF activity using UV-Vis spectrophotometer - Tyrosinase inhibitory activity og GlyciBright - effect of GlyciBright on melanin content in B16F10 cells - Toxicity and photoprotection of GlyciBright En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GRdQ7M8tUi50F0pFR3J6Tqx8NIqTZaE-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38577 [article]

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