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The responsible sourcing of nopal, a remarkable plant for biological skin exfoliation / Mélanie Coirier in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022) . - p. 2-5 Titre : The responsible sourcing of nopal, a remarkable plant for biological skin exfoliation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mélanie Coirier, Auteur ; Emilie Lasjaunias, Auteur ; Paul Eguia, Auteur ; Reda El Aoufir, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 2-5 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agriculture durable Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Exfoliants Figuier de Barbarie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the framework of the development of its active ingredient EXFOLACTIVE®, SILAB has harnessed the remarkable characteristics of the nopal, especially its biological renewal capacity, in order to reactivate the natural endogenous skin desquamation mechanisms. To do so, the company selected a Tunisian supplier, who follows an approach both responsible and sustainable, and who is strongly involved in securing the nopal value. This supply chain is a perfect illustration of SILAB’s mastery of natural. Note de contenu : - THE NOPAL, A VALUABLE RESOURCE : Drought-resisting properties - Valuable from 1 to Z - An agro-economic asset for Tunisia - A RIGOROUSLY SELECTED SUPPLY CHAIN : SILAB's sustainable sourcing polyci - A responsible supply chain - A raw material 100 % authenticated - NOPAL FLOWERS TO REACTIVATE DESQUAMATION : A unique and targeted extraction process - Biological skin exfoliation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wMtZgiYu3cBuP704JR2cuokCOIu-PkCq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38413 [article]

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Changing focus in sustainability / Nora Schiemann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022) . - p. 6-10 Titre : Changing focus in sustainability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nora Schiemann, Auteur ; Anne-Sophie Gardes, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 6-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Développement durable Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits et matériaux recyclés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Waste avoidance has many aspects, e.g. recycling of potential waste in the food industry, but also waste minimization and energy saving (e.g. locally produced raw materials), use of by-products of the food industry, which are used through special upcycling technologies to create efficient and sustainable substances for the production of high-performance cosmetics. Various products can be made based on upcycled materials. There are also product concepts that enable water and energy savings in production. This helps to reduce the recycling load in our environment holistically. Residual materials that can no longer be used in food production provide raw materials that, with high technology, become raw materials for premium cosmetics. In combination with fats, oils and waxes that come from upcycling processes, there are possibilities for multifunctional products in holistic body care. Using formulation examples for different product forms, it is shown how raw materials from No Waste concepts can form the complete basis for sustainable products. Note de contenu : - Aspects of sustainability - Upcycling as an emerging trend - Formulating products only with upcycled material - Description of important ingredients : Cellulose blend (INCI : Microcrystalline cellulose, xanthan gum, cellulose gum - Hydrogenated lecithin - Rice bran oil - Mango kernel butter - Grape seed oil - Avocado oil - Yuzu extract - Tocopherol - Considerations to modify the formula - Making a solid product - Table 1 : Selection of upcycled ingredients which can be found in the market - Table 2 : Natural origin index according to ISO 16128 - Table 3 : Solid balm made from upcycled materials only En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CG7xOqFMRYkuNXK6dvfyeMX_cIPA32El/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38414 [article]

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Holistic healthy avocado oil : Tasty, healthy and ecologically valuable / Isabella Krause in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022) . - p. 12-15 Titre : Holistic healthy avocado oil : Tasty, healthy and ecologically valuable Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Isabella Krause, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 12-15 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agriculture biologique Agriculture durable Avocat (fruit) et constituants Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Avocado oil : In native and refined quality a real all-rounder in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, food and beverage industries. Due to its high content of unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, phytosterols and unsaponifiable components, it is a promising raw material. It is used in cosmetics, for example, in hair care products, lotions, anti-wrinkle creams, natural soaps or ointments. However, avocado cultivation is becoming increasingly controversial because of its negative environmental and social impacts. The high water demand in mostly dry production areas is seen as particularly critical. With LIMBUA GmbH, naturamus GmbH has found a partner that offers holistic sustainable avocado oil: about 7 000 smallholder farmers in the Mount Kenya region are producing avocados without irrigation systems in organic and Fair-for-Life certified quality with a 100% transparent supply chain, followed by gentle oil production on site. Note de contenu : - Why avocado as avocado oil ? - Market forecast - Applications of avocado oil - Avocado oil in cosmetics ? - Avocado oil in the food sector - Negative impact of avocado cultivation - Naturamus project partner LIMBUA - What do we do differently at naturamus and LIMBUA ? - Fig. 1 : Avocado oil - Characteristic-Indicator - Fig. 2 : Avocado oil - Fatty acid spectrum - Fig. 3 : Naturamus avocado oil - Transparent supply chain En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qAP45BVuFd3RzQpw_t9Qqh-huNwZvYnk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38415 [article]

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Sustainable yeast oil - What the fat ? / Jonas Heuer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022) . - p. 16-20 Titre : Sustainable yeast oil - What the fat ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jonas Heuer, Auteur ; Philipp Arbter, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 16-20 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique Huile de levure Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : After almost three years of an ongoing pandemic, climate change sent its regards this summer to remind humankind of what the future will look like. With political uncertainties arising worldwide, a sustainable oil source becomes increasingly important in both terms: ecological and economical. Yeast oil, triacylglycerides produced by oleaginous yeasts, is a promising alternative or even replacement to plant oils like cocoa butter, palm oil and similar. It has a small ecological footprint, can be produced locally in a reliable manner and has unique characteristics making it functional in multiple applications. The following article aims to give an exciting glimpse into a trending topic and COLIPI, a startup located in Hamburg dedicated to leading the fat revolution. Note de contenu : - COLIPI's process - Oil characteristics - Fig. 1 : COLIPIs process for a sustainable oil production En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v2ilbXBNW-1K7WzmHTlHF61B3ToqUFQ7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38416 [article]

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Micellar water, surfactants and make-up removing performance / Anna Momméja in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022) . - p. 22-24 Titre : Micellar water, surfactants and make-up removing performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Momméja, Auteur ; Elodie Cuq Arnaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 22-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Démaquillants Eau micellaire Evaluation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Surfactants Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today, micellar waters are gaining popularity and are driven by the European market which represents 33% of the market share, followed by APAC with 30% and North America with 27%. In addition, a dynamic of new launches appeared particularly in younger markets, with high growth potential, such as Brazil or Indonesia (+9.1% and 21.6% CAGR respectively). But what are really micellar waters and what is the science behind ? Note de contenu : - Method to evaluate the make-up removal effectiveness En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/154yTXrdwccGZkkl9RQYQsc9S9xDzL2ZT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38417 [article]

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Impact of wax particles on crystallization and stability of melt emulsions / Gina Kaysan in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022) . - p. 26-31 Titre : Impact of wax particles on crystallization and stability of melt emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gina Kaysan, Auteur ; Jasmin Reiner, Auteur ; Heike Petra Karbstein, Auteur ; Matthias Kind, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 26-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Cristallisation Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Essais (technologie) Mesure Ultrasons Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Shelf-life and crystallization of the dispersed phases of organic melt emulsions are highly influenced by the composition of the emulsion itself. In literature, it is discussed that chemical similarity between the surfactants’ hydrophobic group and the dispersed phase triggers crystallization. This work focuses on the possible effect of foreign gems, such as waxes, on the crystallization of droplets as they may act as active nucleation clusters (ANC) and may also trigger nucleation. ANCs with similar polarity to the dispersed phase were shown to accelerate the crystallization process as well as to lead to crystallization at lower supercooling, which could enable a more sustainable emulsion production as less energy is needed for cooling. Moreover, the same ANCs which increased crystallization speed were shown to improve the storage stability of an organic oil-in-water emulsion. Note de contenu : - Production of melt emulsion - Ultrasonic measurements - Recrystallization tests En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NyPrKH-q05uh8FG20Drh2mX5lri_TQv3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38418 [article]

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Impact of specified microorganisms on quality and safety of cosmetic products / Ulrich Eigener in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 11 (11/2022) . - p. 32-35 Titre : Impact of specified microorganisms on quality and safety of cosmetic products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrich Eigener, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 32-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contamination microbienne Cosmétiques -- Analyse Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Microorganismes Risques microbiologiques Risques pour la santé Sécurité des produits de consommation Spécifications Tests microbiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : “Specified microorganisms“ are used as a separate group when defining limit counts for cosmetic products (e.g., ISO 17516). Usually, there are four species of microorganisms assigned to this specification group. It has, however, been known for a long time that more than these mentioned species might be of relevance as health hazards for the product user and also for causing alterations of the product characteristics. To reliably reach product quality and safety targets for the product, it is recommended to increase the above-mentioned specification-group in a product-related way through further relevant microorganisms. The species explicitly mentioned in the given norms should therefore be understood as “examples” and not as “exclusive”. To select further species to be assigned to the “specified microorganisms”, detected contaminants should be identified and assessed, or microorganism should be chosen according to experience or literature data. It is essential that species detected and classed as “specified microorganisms” are also sufficiently taken into consideration when defining procedures, measures and examinations as components of the quality management system (e.g., requirements for raw materials, examination methods for control purposes and spectrum of test organisms for preservation efficacy tests). Note de contenu : - DEFINITION OF "SPECIFIED MICROORGANISMS" IN THE HISTORIC CONTEXT - SPECIFIED MICROORGANISMS AND ADVERSE EFFECTS ON PRODUCT QUALITY AND SAFETY : Specified microorganisms and health risks - Specified microorganisms and adverse effects on product characteristics - INCLUSION OF SPECIFIED MICROORGANSISMS INTO PROCEDURES AND MEASURES : Extension of the group of "specified microorganisms" - Identification and cultivation of detected contaminants - Measures and examinations which should prespect specified microorganisms En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vPmlS3zlYGXdSXB-vIAEvCnYeZjltYXD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38419 [article]

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