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The influence of chemical reaction conditions upon poly(styrene-methyl methacrylate-crylic acid) synthesis : Variations in nanoparticle size, colour and deposition methods / Rui D. V. Fernandes in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 101-109 Titre : The influence of chemical reaction conditions upon poly(styrene-methyl methacrylate-crylic acid) synthesis : Variations in nanoparticle size, colour and deposition methods Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rui D. V. Fernandes, Auteur ; Pedro Gomes, Auteur ; Andrea Zille, Auteur ; Antonio Pedro Souto, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 101-109 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie textile Copolymère styrène-méthacrylate de méthyle-acide crylique Copolymères -- Synthèse Latex Lumière -- Diffusion Polyamide 66 Polymérisation en émulsion Potentiel zeta Réactions chimiques Textiles et tissus Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Monodisperse latex nanospheres of poly(styrene-methyl methacrylate-acrylic acid) with different sizes were synthetised by soap-free emulsion copolymerisation and applied onto polyamide 6,6 fabrics by two methods, ie, gravitational sedimentation and dip-drawing. Different-sized nanospheres were synthetised by varying temperature and stirring velocity as reaction parameters. Scanning electron microscopy and scanning transmission electron microscopy were used to evaluate nanosphere sizes and deposition structures. The results showed two different nanosphere structural arrangements on the fabric surface, a hexagonal packed centre structure in the even surfaces and a square arrangement in the out-of-plane surfaces. Different colours were observed according to particle size, namely, violet (ca . 170 nm), blue (ca . 190 nm), green (ca . 210 nm), yellow (ca . 230 nm) and red (ca . 250 nm). An iridescence effect was also observed, displaying different colours at different observation angles. By controlling the size of the nanospheres it was possible to obtain different, brilliant and iridescent colours. Using different nanosphere sizes it was possible to obtain different interplanar distances and to control the light scattering in the crystalline lattice planes, obtaining Bragg diffraction patterns. Note de contenu : - Materials - Preparation of monodisperse P(St-MMA-AA) composite nanospheres - Fourier Transform-infrared spectroscopy with attenuated total reflectance - Dynamic light scattering and zeta potential measurements - Deposition of PCs by the dip-drawing method - Scanning electron microscopy and scanning transmission microscopy - Optical microscopy - Diffuse reflectance spectroscopy - Glossmeter analysis - Photographs DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12452 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34229 [article]

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Green synthesis of reactive dye for ink-jet printing in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 110-119 Titre : Green synthesis of reactive dye for ink-jet printing Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 110-119 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Chauffage Chloropyrimidine Colorants -- Synthèse Colorants réactifs Encre Impression sur étoffes Micro-ondes Photostabilité Résistance au lavage Vert Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Chloropyrimidine-based reactive dyes are reported as well suited to textile printing; however, nucleophilic aromatic substitution of chloropyrimidines with amino-containing chromophores is slow and often suffers from poor yields. In this study, a novel and simple method was developed for the synthesis of chloropyrimidine-based reactive dye under microwave irradiation. In addition, the dye was also synthesised by conventional heating for comparison, which took both the reaction time and yield into account. The progress of the synthesis reactions concerned were monitored using capillary electrophoresis and the purity of the dye obtained was assessed by thin-layer chromatography. The structure of the synthesised trichloropyrimidine dye was confirmed by Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy and elemental analysis. It was found that the reaction rate of the nucleophilic aromatic substitution carried out under microwave irradiation was 4-fold faster than that carried out under conventional heating, although the enhancement in product yield was modest. These results suggest that microwave irradiation is an effective technique for the synthesis of chloropyrimidine-based reactive dyes. The synthesised chloropyrimidine dye was formulated into an ink and applied onto a wool fabric by ink-jet printing. The printed fabrics were steamed at 102°C for 5-25 minutes at 5-minute intervals. Good K/S and rate of dye fixation were obtained, both of which improved with increasing steaming time. The prints obtained exhibited reasonably good light and wash fastness properties. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Methods and instrumentation - Synthesis of yello 7-[(4-amino-2-methylphenyl)azo]-1,3-naphthalenedisulphonic acid dye (chromophore) - Synthesis of yello 7-[2,5,6-trichloro-4-pyrimidinyl)amino]-2-[(methylphenyl)azo]-1,3-naphthalenedisulphonic-acid dye - Ink-jet printing procedure - Measurement of K/S - Measurement of dye fixation - Colour fastness testing - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Microwave irradiation versus conventional heating - Characterisation of yellow chromophore and dye 1 via microwave irradiated synthesis - Printing properties - Table 1 : Comparison of reaction time and yield using microwave irradiation and conventional heating DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12450 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34230 [article]

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Prevention of biofouling on aquaculture nets with eco-friendly antifouling paint formulation / Korhan Sen in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 120-129 Titre : Prevention of biofouling on aquaculture nets with eco-friendly antifouling paint formulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Korhan Sen, Auteur ; Umit Halis Erdogan, Auteur ; Levent Cavas, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 120-129 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aquaculture Caractérisation Chimie écologique Colorimétrie Filets de pêche Revêtements antisalissures:Peinture antisalissures Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Aquaculture, which is an important part of food supply, is usually carried out in cage nets made of textile materials. Fouling organisms settle on the cage nets over time, close the mesh openings, and cause unwanted weight gain. In order to prevent fouling, aquaculture nets are generally treated with antifouling paints. In this paper, warp knitted cage nets made from various raw materials were treated with three different antifouling paints. Econea was used as a biocide to prepare an eco‐friendly antifouling paint formulation, and two copper‐based commercial antifouling paints were supplied for comparison. Antifouling paint‐treated and untreated net samples were immersed in a marine ecosystem next to an aquaculture zone for 6 months. Settlement of fouling organisms on nets was observed by taking underwater photographs at periodic intervals. Following the field study, changes in the structure of the nets and antifouling performance of the paints were evaluated considering the results of underwater photographs, biomass growth, variation in mass and strength tests. Colour fastness of the antifouling paints to sea water was also measured to learn about biocide release and surface hydrophobicity. The results show that copper‐free eco‐friendly antifouling paint is just as effective against the fouling mechanism for all types of nets as copper‐based commercial antifouling paints. The novel eco‐friendly formulation has promising results, which provides an alternative for producers when considering the selection of raw materials. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Preparation of AP-3 - Applications of APs - Field study - Characterisation of untrated and treated ANs - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Mass variations in ANs - Assessment of colour measurements - Colour fastness to sea water - Tensile properties of nets - Field study - SEM observation - Table 1 : Properties of aquaculture nets (ANs) and antifouling paints (APs) - Table 2 : Composition of antifouling paint 3 (AP-3) - Table 3 : Antifouling paint (AP)-treated nets and their abbreviations - Table 4 : Pick-up values and mass loss of aquaculture nets - Table 5 : Colorimetric values of the untreated and antifouling paint (AP)-treated nets before and after the field study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12454 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34231 [article]

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Resistance variation of conductive ink applied by the screen printing technique on different substrates / Pedro Gomes in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 130-136 Titre : Resistance variation of conductive ink applied by the screen printing technique on different substrates Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pedro Gomes, Auteur ; Derya Tama, Auteur ; Hélder Carvalho, Auteur ; Antonio Pedro Souto, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 130-136 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conducteurs organiques Coton Le coton est une fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers "véritables"(Gossypium sp.), un arbuste de la famille des Malvacées. Cette fibre est généralement transformée en fil qui est tissé pour fabriquer des tissus. Le coton est la plus importante des fibres naturelles produites dans le monde. Depuis le XIXe siècle, il constitue, grâce aux progrès de l'industrialisation et de l'agronomie, la première fibre textile du monde (près de la moitié de la consommation mondiale de fibres textiles). Encre Essais (technologie) Essais dynamiques Microscopie Polyamides Un polyamide est un polymère contenant des fonctions amides -C(=O)-NH- résultant d'une réaction de polycondensation entre les fonctions acide carboxylique et amine. Selon la composition de leur chaîne squelettique, les polyamides sont classés en aliphatiques, semi-aromatiques et aromatiques. Selon le type d'unités répétitives, les polyamides peuvent être des homopolymères ou des copolymères. Polyesters Résistance électrique Rigidité (mécanique) Sérigraphie Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus -- Lavage Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : This research study focuses on the application of conductive ink by the screen printing technique to evaluate the potential of creating printed electrodes and to investigate the effect of washing upon electrical resistance and flexibility. Two conductive inks were applied by a conventional screen printing method on four different textile substrates, 100% cotton, 50%/50% cotton/polyester, 100% polyester and 100% polyamide. The inks were also applied on a multifibre fabric. Atmospheric plasma treatment was applied to improve the adhesion to the samples, and the resistance values were compared with those of non‐treated samples. The values were measured before and after cleaning and washing tests, which were performed to simulate domestic treatment for garments to predict the behaviour of the inks after normal usage of the fabrics. Comfort properties like stiffness of the fabrics were also evaluated after five and 10 washing cycles. It was observed that PE 825 ink forms a thicker film on the fabric surface, contributing to the loss of flexibility of the textile. However, PE 825 ink also produced the best results in terms of durability and lower values of resistance. Polyamide fabrics lost their conductive property after five washing cycles due to weak bonding between the ink and the fibres, whereas cotton fibres provided the best results. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Procedures - Analytical methods - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Stiffness test - Electrical resistance testing - Microscope analysis - Table 1 : Stiffness values - Table 2 : Resistance values of fabrics - Table 3 : Resistance values of multifibre fabrics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12451 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34232 [article]

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Application of D-optimal design in the analysis and modelling of dyeing of plasma-treated wool with three natural dyes / Aminoddin Haji in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 137-146 Titre : Application of D-optimal design in the analysis and modelling of dyeing of plasma-treated wool with three natural dyes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aminoddin Haji, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 137-146 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alun Caractérisation Chimie textile Colorants végétaux Laine Mordançage (teinture) Statistique Technique des plasmas Teinture -- Fibres textiles Traîtements de surface Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Both the dyeing and finishing of textiles with natural compounds are gaining increasing attention because of various environmental and health problems associated with the use of synthetic reagents. In this study, wool fibres were dyed with three natural dyes, namely, Arnebia euchroma, cotton pods and harmal seeds. Alum was used as the mordant, and samples were mordanted by the premordanting method. Oxygen plasma was employed for the surface modification of wool. Plasma treatment time, alum concentration, dyebath temperature and pH were selected as the process variables, and their effects on the K/S of the dyed samples were analysed using D-optimal design. The surface topography, morphology and chemistry of the wool fibres after plasma treatment were studied by atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), respectively. FTIR confirmed the creation of new oxygen-containing groups on the surface of wool fibres after plasma treatment. SEM and AFM images confirmed the surface etching and increase in the roughness of plasma-treated fibres. Increasing the dyebath pH and temperature increased the K/S of the dyed samples. Increasing the amount of alum mordant increased the K/S of samples dyed with cotton pods but decreased the K/S of samples dyed with A. euchroma and harmal seeds. Increasing the plasma treatment time improved the K/S of samples dyed with A. euchroma and cotton pods but had no significant effect on the K/S of samples dyed with harmal seeds. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Procedures - Analytical methods - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterisation of raw and plasma-treated samples - Statistical analysis and modelling - Effect of process parameters DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12445 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34233 [article]

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Treatment of originally coloured wools with garlic stem extracts and zinc chloride to ensure anti-bacterial properties with limited colour changes / Fazilhan Yilmaz in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 147-152 Titre : Treatment of originally coloured wools with garlic stem extracts and zinc chloride to ensure anti-bacterial properties with limited colour changes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fazilhan Yilmaz, Auteur ; Ömer Aydinhoglu, Auteur ; Hüseyin Benli, Auteur ; Gamze Kahraman, Auteur ; Muhammed Ibrahim Bahtiyari, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 147-152 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ail et constituants Antibactériens Chlorure de zinc Laine Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : In this study, the objective was to ensure anti-bacterial properties for originally coloured wools with naturally sourced garlic stem extracts. In addition, zinc chloride-based treatment was also carried out. The aim was to retain the original colours of the wool fibres during these treatments. The effects of both treatments were evaluated in terms of colour changes in the wool fibres. It was found that the colour changes caused by the treatments were high in white/ecru fibres but more limited in black fibres. The colour differences between the treated and untreated black fibres were near 1; they were also quite high in white/ecru fibres. The anti-bacterial properties of the treated wool fibres against two bacteria species, one gram-negative and one gram-positive, were also investigated. It was observed that zinc chloride-based treatment ensured significant anti-bacterial efficiencies against the bacteria tested and 99.9% bacterial reduction in all cases. However, the anti-bacterial effects of garlic stem extract-based treated wool fibres were limited. It was observed that treatment of wool fibres with garlic stem extracts resulted in no anti-bacterial efficiency against Escherichia coli but did provide some anti-bacterial capability against Staphylococcus aureus . The highest bacterial reduction of S. aureus was 80.7% in originally brown-coloured wool fibre. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Method - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : The effect of treatment on the colours of the wool fibres - The effect of treatment of antibacterial efficiency of the wool fibres DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12444 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34234 [article]

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Synthesis, stability and printing properties of a novel 2-sulphophenoxy-4-chloro-s-triazine reactive dye for ink-jet printing of wool / Saira Faisal in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 153-166 Titre : Synthesis, stability and printing properties of a novel 2-sulphophenoxy-4-chloro-s-triazine reactive dye for ink-jet printing of wool Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Saira Faisal, Auteur ; Long Lin, Auteur ; Matthew Clark, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 153-166 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Colorants -- Synthèse Colorants réactifs Electrophorèse capillaire Encre Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Impression sur étoffes Jaune Laine Photostabilité Résistance au lavage Solidité de la couleur Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : We report here the synthesis and characterisation of a new medium-reactivity reactive dye containing 2-sulphophenoxy-4-chloro-s-triazine, having enhanced the activity of the chlorine atom for further substitution by the functional groups carried by wool fibre. In addition, a dichloro-s-triazine dye was also synthesised for the purpose of comparison. The progress of synthesis reactions and purity of the dyes were determined using capillary electrophoresis and thin layer chromatography. The molecular structure and the chemical compositions of the synthesised dyes were confirmed using Fourier Transform–infrared spectral data and elemental analyses. The inks containing the synthesised dyes were formulated and ink-jet-printed onto wool fabrics and then the printed fabrics were steamed at 102°C. Compared with the dichloro-s-triazine dye, superior performance in terms of ink stability, K/S and dye fixation was observed for the new 2-sulphophenoxy-4-chloro-s-triazine dye. In addition, the light fastness of the fabric printed with the inks containing the new dye was 0.5-grade greater than that of the fabric printed with the inks containing the dichloro-s-triazine dye, and no changes in shade and staining were observed following wash fastness tests of the fabrics printed with the inks containing the new dye. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Synthesis of yellow 7-[(4-amino-2-methylphenyl)azo]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonic-acid dye - Synthesis of yellow 7-[(2,4-dichloro-1,3,5-triazin-6-yl)amino-2-methylphenyl]azo]-1,3-naphthalenedisulphonic-acid dye - Synthesis of yellow 7-[(2-(4-sulphophenoxy)-4-chloro-1,3,5-triazin-6-yl)amino-2-methylphenyl]azo]-1,3-naphthalenedisulphonic-acid dye - Procedures - Application of the dyes - Physicochemical properties of the inks - Stability of the inks - K/S - Fixation - Colour fastness properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Synthesis of reactive dyes - Capillary electrophoresis (MEKC) - FTIR analysis - Physicochemical properties of the inks - Stability of the inks - Printing properties - Wash fastness - Light fastness DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12457 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34235 [article]

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The effect of liposome on dyeing mohair/wool blends / Gülsah Ekin kartal in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 136-167 Titre : The effect of liposome on dyeing mohair/wool blends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gülsah Ekin kartal, Auteur ; Berrak Buket Avci, Auteur ; Gokhan Erkhan, Auteur ; Merih Sariisik, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 136-167 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cholestérol Encapsulation Fibres textiles -- Propriétés mécaniques Laine Lécithine La phosphatidylcholine est plus connue sous le nom lécithine. Au sens le plus strict, la lécithine désigne uniquement les phosphatidylcholines c'est-à-dire un lipide formé à partir d'une choline, d'un phosphate, d'un glycérol et de deux acides gras (figure). Dans ce contexte, il serait plus juste de parler des lécithines, car il ne s'agit pas d'une seule molécule mais d'un groupe dont la composition en acide gras varie d'une molécule à l'autre. Ainsi, les lécithines vont adopter diverses couleurs selon leur composition : du jaune, pour la lécithine végétale, au brun, pour la lécithine de poisson. Le terme de lécithine est aussi utilisé par extension pour désigner l'ensemble des phospholipides extraits du vivant (par exemple le soja), dans la mesure où ils sont majoritairement constitués de phosphatidylcholine. Liposomes Mohair Photostabilité Résistance au lavage Soja et constituants Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The aim of this study was to examine the use of liposome in the dyeing of wool and mohair fibres with acid dyestuffs. Soybean lecithin and cholesterol were used to form the liposome membrane utilised in the dyebath. Liposome production was performed according to the thin lipid layer method (Bangham Method) using a rotary evaporator. Two different forms of liposome were used for dyeing wool and mohair fibres. In its first form, liposome was utilised as an auxiliary agent, where it was added to a conventional dyebath at the beginning of the process. In its second form, dyes were encapsulated with liposome and then used in dyeing. The effects of these two different forms of liposome were compared with conventional dyeing. Dyeing was carried out at depths of shade of 0.5%, 1.0% and 2.0% using three different concentrations of liposome (0.33%, 0.66% and 1.33%). An analysis of K/S values, fastness to washing, and the alkali solubility of fibres was conducted. The fibre samples dyed in the presence of liposome exhibited very good fastness to light (grade 8). The wash fastness test results of the liposomal-dyed samples were significantly better (grade 4-5) than for those samples which were conventionally dyed. In the presence of liposome, the tensile strength of fibres was 20 gf, whereas it was 11 gf without liposomes. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12461 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34236 [article]

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Oxygen plasma pretreatment improves dyeing and antimicrobial properties of wool fabric dyed with natural extract from pomegranate peel / Jelena Peran in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 177-187 Titre : Oxygen plasma pretreatment improves dyeing and antimicrobial properties of wool fabric dyed with natural extract from pomegranate peel Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jelena Peran, Auteur ; Sanja Ercegovic Razic, Auteur ; Ana Sutlovic, Auteur ; Tomislav Ivankovic, Auteur ; Martinia Ira Glogar, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 177-187 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Caractérisation Colorimétrie Essais dynamiques Extraits de plantes Fibres textiles -- Propriétés mécaniques Grenade (fruit) et constituants Hydrophilie Laine Mordançage (teinture) Nitrate d'argent Résistance à la traction Résistance au lavage Solidité de la couleur Sulfate d'aluminium Sulfate de potassium Technique des plasmas Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : This paper presents the application of conventional potassium aluminium sulphate wool mordanting and a biochemical method with silver nitrate (as antimicrobial agent and mordant), alone and in combination with oxygen plasma, as part of comprehensive research into pretreatment processes for wool dyeing with natural extract from pomegranate peel (Punica granatum L.) . Pretreatment with oxygen plasma significantly improved the hydrophilicity and tensile strength of all tested samples and showed that oxygen plasma can improve K/S , washing fastness, and even replace certain mordants in wool dyeing with natural pomegranate dye. All dyed samples exhibited good antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus , which can be contributed to the phenol content in pomegranate dye. Only after 28 days of intensive ageing in natural weathering conditions did K/S and antibacterial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae slightly decrease in dyed samples pretreated with oxygen plasma. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and methods - Plasma treatment - Dyeing procedure - Surface morphology - Wicking properties - Tensile strength characterisation - Colorimetric measurements - Colour fastness - Antibacterial activity - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : FE-SEM analysis - Wicking properties - Tensile strength - Colour properties - Colour fastness - Antibacterial activity of treated samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12464 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34237 [article]

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Optimisation of process parameters of Alpaca wool printing with Juglans regia natural dye / Martinia Glogar in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 136, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 188-201 Titre : Optimisation of process parameters of Alpaca wool printing with Juglans regia natural dye Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martinia Glogar, Auteur ; Josipa Tancik, Auteur ; Iva Briek, Auteur ; Ana Sutlovic, Auteur ; Marijana Tkalec, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 188-201 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alpaga Analyse spectrale Colorants végétaux Epaississants Essais dynamiques Extraction (chimie) Impression sur étoffes Laine Microscopie Mordançage (teinture) Pâtes d'impression Photostabilité Résistance à l'abrasion Résistance au lavage Rhéologie Sérigraphie Solidité de la couleur Sulfate de fer Textiles et tissus -- Propriétés mécaniques Textiles et tissus imprimés Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The aim of this research study was to optimise the process parameters of Alpaca wool hand‐knitted samples screen‐printing with Juglans regia natural dye and to set the optimal conditions regarding colour yield, colour fastness and colouristic properties of printed samples. An extensive preliminary examination of the Alpaca woollen yarn and hand‐knitted samples characteristics, the characteristics of suitable thickeners and the optimisation of the printing paste composition, was performed. A starch‐based thickener, British Gum, with a dry matter content of 4% was selected due to its rheological properties responding to properties of the Alpaca yarn and knitwear. It was determined that the fluidity increases while the viscosity and the elasticity decrease in acidic pH, so a pH of 4 was set for the thickener preparation. The thickener of lower viscosity and higher fluidity assures easier pressing of printing paste through the screen, giving uniform colour yield on the substrate, contributing to easier absorption of dyes into the fibre. A 45‐minute fixing process at 105°C by steaming delivered the best results of printing quality. Iron sulphate was used as the mordanting agent. The colour fastness to washing, dry and wet rubbing, and to light, was tested for samples with and without mordanting. The highest light and washing fastness were obtained with the iron sulphate mordanting agent printed in acid (pH 4) with paste containing 4% dry matter‐based thickener. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory for samples with iron sulphate printed with paste containing 4% dry matter thickener, fixed for 45 minutes, regardless of the pH. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Mechanical and physical yarn and knitwear properties - Dyestuff extraction - Identification of colouring compound - Thickener selection and rheological properties analyses printing paste preparation - Printing, fixing and washing - Microscopic and spectrophotometric analyses - Colour fastness - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Mechanical and physical yarn and knitwear properties - Thickener rheological properties analyses - FTIR and UV-VIS spectroscopy analysis - Printing and printed samples analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12462 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34238 [article]

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