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Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 2-10 Titre : Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Analyse Evaluation Formulation (Génie chimique) Lumière bleue Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Radicaux libres (chimie) Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The impact of UV-filter combination on the number of free radicals generated in sunscreen formulations and the skin following UV-VIS irradiation was assessed via electron spin resonance spectroscopy using a spin-probing approach. Four UV-filter combinations that differed in their photostability and range of UVA absorbance coverage were investigated. Fewer free radicals were generated in the sunscreen formulation when a photostable UVA filter system was used, compared to a stabilized UVA filter system. Additionally, fewer free radicals were generated in the skin when a sunscreen with long UVA protection extending to the short visible range was used, compared to a sunscreen with minimal UVA protection. This study showed that the photostability of a UV-filter system is central to the generation of free radicals in a formulation, and that long UVA-blue light protection is key for avoiding the generation of free radicals in the skin. A sunscreen product exhibiting both photostable UVA protection and long UVA-blue light protection is therefore the most appropriate choice for protecting against ROS-induced skin damage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Sunscreen formulations - Measurement of free radicals - UV and blue light transmittance measurements with photostability assessment - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Photostability profile of investigated sunscreen formulations - Absorbance profile of organic particulate UV filters - Table 1 : Chassis of the sunscreen formulations used in both studies - Table 2 : Composition of UV-filter combinations in % by weight - Table 3 : Relative quantity of free radicals, N = 2 - Table 4 : Means and standard deviations for N = 3-5 - Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of the investigated sunscreens - Fig. 2 :Free radical formation in the unstable sunscreens as a function of UV irradiation time. Data fitted with a Boltzmann sigmoidal algorithm - Fig. 3 : Long UVA-blue light transmittance of Tinosorb M and Tinosorb A2B at 4%, 7% and 10% - Fig. 4 : UVA-blue light transmittance of UV-filter combinations with varying quantities of particulate organic UV filters : from O% (top curve), to 5.25% (middle curve) and 13.5% of organic particulate UV filters En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pU6mF1OhvWam8jSEoNvLW2xn5Gu1dzrM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32927 [article]

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Blue light induced hyperpigmentation in skin and how to prevent it / Rolf Schütz in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 12-17 Titre : Blue light induced hyperpigmentation in skin and how to prevent it Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rolf Schütz, Auteur ; Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Jürgen Vollhardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Etudes cliniques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Lumière bleue Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation, Troubles de la Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Unlike UV, to date her has been little clinical research int the immediate and chronic effects of blue light on skin. Therefore we aimed to specifically investigate skin hyperpigmentation in human subjects caused by blue light. Our initial study, the first of its kind, assessed hyperpigmentation induced by single, high-dose or repetitive, moderate doses of LED blue-light exposure in vivo. In a placebo-controlled trial the study substantiated the protective effects of an SPF 30 sunscreen formulation containing performance in the blue light range.Evidence from the literature further indicates an association between the exposure of skin to blue light and the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Previously, we demonstrated - through in vitro and ex vivo experiments - that a formulation containing a microalgae extract of Scenedesmus rubescens could enhance skin resilience to blue light-induced ROS formation. Here we report on the first clinical study with this microalgae product, which also confirms the protective effect against blue light irradiation in vivo. As a consequence we have developed a multi-mechanistic strategy for the prevention of hyperpigmentation caused by exposure to blue light. Note de contenu : - Clinical effects of LED blue light on skin pigmentation and sunscreen protection - Protective effects of the natural microalga extract Scenedesmus rubescens En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RVXZOoPc2WSAwuK8VvNQG-OUin_4_N69/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32928 [article]

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Photostabilisation : the key to robust, safe and elegant sunscreens / Eileen Zhang in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 18-25 Titre : Photostabilisation : the key to robust, safe and elegant sunscreens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eileen Zhang, Auteur ; Hallstar (Chicago, USA), Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 18-25 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photostabilisants Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : During the photostabilisation process, the excited state energy of a light-absorbing species is removed by energy transfer and/or by an electron transfer quenching mechanism. By thus returning it to its ground state, this process stabilises light-absorbing species, which prevents photodegradation and the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Hallstar has pioneered photostabilisation technology to promote effective sun protection and comprehensive photoaging prevention. Our photostabilisers for UV filters protect photolabile UV filters from decomposition and shield photosensitive UV filters from generating ROS. A paradigm shift from UV filter protection resulted in the development of our revolutionary anti-aging technology based on stopping photosensitisers in skin from generating any ROS when excited by light. Note de contenu : - Principles of photostabilisation - Protecting UV filters against photodecomposition : increase filter efficiency - Protecting UV filters against ROS generation : increase safety and effectiveness - Protecting skin chromophores against ROS generation : the ultimate solution to photoaging - Table 1 : Sunscreen formulation using AvoBrite - Table 2 : Sunscreen formulation without AvoBrite - Table 3 : Impact of Hallstar photostabilisers on mineral filter efficacy En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_UICV7vXtKPm32QxMzu7rOAWXV09Y65Q/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32930 [article]

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Natural oil metathesis unveils high-performance weightless cosmetic emollients / Aleksandra Zmiric in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 26-30 Titre : Natural oil metathesis unveils high-performance weightless cosmetic emollients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aleksandra Zmiric, Auteur ; Sergio Manzano, Auteur ; Luciana Rodrigues, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcanes Biomatériaux Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie écologique Emollients Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Métathèse (chimie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A cosmetic product wins when it succeeds in awakening the sensory memory of someone who uses it by creating a unique texture, intriguing color or unforgettable fragrance. This sensory experience is important to modern consumers who are increasingly asking for feathery, second-skin like textures. This particularly applies to those who follow the so called "layering" regimen, a popular skincare trend originating in Asia in which different products are applied on the skin, one above another, in specific order. Commonly cosmetic products are produced using volatile silicones, fossil-based alkanes and esters but there is growing concern over their accumulation in the environment and the petrochemical sourcing of these materials, raising sustainability and safety questions. This has led to products created with bio-based, sustainable and safe materials. A unique green chemistry process, called metathesis, has paved the road to bio-based alkanes, enabling the production of feathery emollients, that have high skin compatibility, are synergistic with all other cosmetic ingredients and are high performing in skin and hair care applications. Bio-based alkanes are also characterized by high purity and ready biodegradability. This article explores all the benefits of bio-based alkanes in cosmetic formulations for numerous applications including skincare, sun care, make-up, deodorants and demanding hair care. Note de contenu : - Green megatrend - Metathesis technology - Bio-based dodecane is a perfectly-matched alternative to D5 (cyclopentasiloxane) - The behaviour of bio-based dodecane in skin care - The behaviour of bio-based dodecane in hair care - Bio-based tridecane (and) pentadecane as valid alternatives to petrochemical isoalkanes - Behaviour of bio-based renewable tridecane (and) pentadecane in skin care - Behaviour of bio-based renewable tridecane (and) pentadecane in hair care - Fig. 1 : Sensory profile of bio-based dodecane compared to cyclopentasiloxane in emulsion at 10% - Fig. 2 : Wet combing force in shampoo - Fig. 3 : Sensory profile of bio-based tridecane (and) pentadecane compared to isohexadecane in emulsion at 10% - Fig. 4 : Wet combing in conditioner after one wash - Fig. 5 : Wet combing in conditioner after three washes - long lasting effect - Fig. 6 : Wet combing in leave-in formulation - Fig. 7 : Dry combing in leave in formulation - Table 1 : Formulation 1 : Natural deodorant stick with evanescent silicone-like skin feel - Table 2 : Natural double ends liquid crystals - silicone free - Table 3 : Formulation 3 : Natural feathery feel sun care oil En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t7hGRBIxW1fSqDjyERcX0_vmSqOHVkRX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32959 [article]

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Natural extremolyte fights pigmentation caused by environmental stressors / Janina Kienemund in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 32-35 Titre : Natural extremolyte fights pigmentation caused by environmental stressors Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Janina Kienemund, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 32-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Antioxydants Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Lumière bleue Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation de la peau Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The natural extremolyte bitop Ectoin® natural shows comprehensive skin protection efficacy against multiple external stress factors initiating pigmentation, in this case particulate matter and blue light irradiation. It effectively reduces pollution induced POMC gene expression and is capable to protect skin and skin cells from the whole spectrum of air pollution including PAHs, heavy metals as well as PM of all particle sizes. bitop Ectoin® natural also prevents blue light induced pigmentation and oxidative stress and additionally supports gentle skin lightening during long-term application. Furthermore, the natural active ingredient is supported by more than 15 years of published clinical data, proving its safety and efficacy for various applications including its therapeutic use in medical products. Note de contenu : - Protection against pollution induced pigmentation - Protection against blue light induced pigmentation - Whitening and lightening efficacy - Fig. 1 : Up-regulation of POMC mRNA expression in primary human keratinocytes (Asian and Caucasian) by ultrafine (Printex90) and fine (Huber990) carbon black particles and by two different types of exhaust particulates (SRM1650, SRM2975) - Fig. 2 : MC1R immunostaining of the negative control, placebo and 1% bitop Ectoin® natural pre-treatment batch with and without visible light irradiation - Table 1 : Depigmenting effect and skin lightening - Table 2 : Reduction of different pigmentations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pcDCxfhlrjkg8EkGcCTUC5oGK8XEopTh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32960 [article]

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Effective natural alternatives to synthetic solubilizers - a comparison study in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 36-41 Titre : Effective natural alternatives to synthetic solubilizers - a comparison study Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-41 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Huiles essentielles Ingrédients cosmétiques Parfums Solubilisants (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural and sustainable ingredients are one of the key drivers behind the growth of the global personal care and cosmetics market. Stephenson’s naturally derived Durosoft® esters are a range of COSMOS approved, 100 % natural, RSPO certified and palm free emulsifiers, surfactants, emollients and solubilisers that can be used in a variety of cosmetic and personal care applications. In this article, we will discuss the solubilizing property of Durosoft PG10CY, a natural solubiliser of fragrances and essential oils. Solubilizers are needed to incorporate fragrances and/or essential oils in cosmetics. The performance of Durosoft PG10CY was compared in parallel to Polysorbate 20, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil as well another commercially available natural solu-biliser. The fragrances and essential oils selected are based on Michael Edward’s fragrance wheel, and tested at different ratios: 10 :1, 5 :1 and 3 :1 ratios. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Michael Edwards fragrance wheel - Fig. 2 : Demeter blending pyramid - Table 1 : Fragrances and essential oils used for testing - Table 2 : Amounts weighed for the solubility test - Table 3 : Results En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bbaO3oGLVBMLS8PuRKUytv3U1nUyjKrd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32961 [article]

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Skin environmentally safe and universally useable disinfectant for all surfaces with green technology / Karolin Rouette in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 42-44 Titre : Skin environmentally safe and universally useable disinfectant for all surfaces with green technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karolin Rouette, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Désinfectants Détergents Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has defined under the biocide regulation (BPR) in Annex 1 a category of not hazardous biocides to health and environment for a simplified approval rocedure consisting of a list of 18 substances, among orhters, organic acids and essentials oils. These for the UniBlue Universal Disinfectin used organic acids are safe to the skin and environment and do not require any warning signs. For the disinfection of surfaces by wiping and sprayin bacteria, fungi, viruses, mycobacteria and spores are killed and inactivated, respectively. On the surfaces no resistant residues are formed. Note de contenu : - Safe and effective disinfection with organic acids in wiping procedure - Mechanisms of safe and environmentally-friendly UniBlue Universal Disinfection - Properties of UniBlue Universal Disinfection - Application - Table 1 : For human, animal and environment safe biocidal active substances according to Annex 1 of BPR - Fig. 1 : Mode of action of UniBlue Universal Disinfection En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HBNRoOlVuV8PdMD-yMuLObW-C1qZFJRX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32962 [article]

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