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Leather surface refinement with application of the TIO2-SIO2-GLYMO Nanocomposite and lacquer coating / Meruyert Kaygusuz in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 234-240 Titre : Leather surface refinement with application of the TIO2-SIO2-GLYMO Nanocomposite and lacquer coating Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Meruyert Kaygusuz, Auteur ; Nuray Olcay Isik, Auteur ; Michael Meyer ; Ahmet Aslan Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 234-240 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adhésion Caractérisation Cuir Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Dépôt par pulvérisation Matériaux hybrides Oxydes métalliques Photostabilité Réaction de couplage Résistance à l'abrasion Revêtements Sol-gel, Procédé Solidité de la couleur Vernis Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In the present study the effect of TiO2-SiO2-GLYMO nanocomposite on surface properties of leather was investigated. The TiO2-SiO2-GLYMO composite was prepared through the sol-gel route from tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) and titanium n-butoxide (TBO). 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GLYMO) was added as coupling agent to provide a stable bond between metal oxides and leather substrate. The prepared composite was applied by spraying on the top coat of leathers in finishing. The surface properties observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) showed an even and homogenous coating obtained on leather by application of the composite in the presence of lacquer. The chemical structure of composite films was examined via Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and Si-O-Ti bond and opening of epoxy rings of GLYMO were revealed. The presence of Ti and Si in the composite treated leather samples was ascertained by inductively coupled plasma optic emission spectrometer (ICP-OES). The results of the physical and fastness tests indicated that the use of TiO2-SiO2-GLYMO nanocomposite improves some performance characteristics of leather such as finish adhesion, dry and wet rubbing fastness, colour fastness to light and UV light. The results are promising for the refinement of leather surface with the application of the nanocomposite in the finishing process. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES : Materials - Preparation and characterization of TiO2-SiO2-GLYMO composite - Application of TiO2-SiO2-GLYMO composite on leather - Characterisation and determination of surface properties of leathers treated with TiO2-SiO2-GLYMO nanocomposite - RESULTS : Characterisation of the leather samples - Physical and fastness properties of leathers En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q1a_bibn8FusdKXvK2TYDkFNIUZiIWKP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31094 [article]

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Leather goods notified to the rapex system in the years 2004-2017 - Notification analysis for countries of manufacture and notifying countries / Elzbieta Bielak in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 241-246 Titre : Leather goods notified to the rapex system in the years 2004-2017 - Notification analysis for countries of manufacture and notifying countries Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elzbieta Bielak, Auteur ; Gabriela Zielinska, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 241-246 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Protection Cuir Maroquinerie Produits chimiques -- Toxicologie Substances dangereuses Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This paper analyses information pertaining to notifications of unsafe leather goods submitted to the EU Rapid Exchange of Information System (RAPEX) in the years 2004-2017. The number of leather goods reported in the system has been compared to total number of notifications on dangerous products classified in the category 'Clothing, textiles and fashion items' that includes leather goods. The notifications were analysed for the country of origin of leather goods as well as for the notifying country. This allows identification of countries from which the largest number of dangerous leather goods come, i.e., China, India and Pakistan, as well as countries most active in detecting them in their own domestic markets, i.e., Germany, Spain and Estonia. The article presents also results of surveys related to opinions of Polish consumers towards the safety of leather goods they purchase as well as their awareness about the presence and functioning of the RAPEX system. The research showed the most of Polish consumers cannot clearly indicate whether the leather goods they buy are safe for health or not. Moreover, most of Polish customers have no knowledge of the presence and functioning of the RAPEX system. Note de contenu : - Countries of origin of dangerous leather goods notified in the RAPEX system - Countries notifying dangerous leather goods in the RAPEX system - The surveys on Polish consumer awareness about the safety of leather goods and the presence and operation of the RAPEX system - Fig. 1 : Countries oforigin of leather goods notified in the RAPEX system - Fig. 2 : Countries manufacturing leather goods most often notified in the RAPEX system in the years 2004-2017 - Fig. 3 : Countries notifying leather goods to the RAPEX system - Fig. 4 : Countries most frequently notifying leather goods in the RAPEX system in the years 2004-2017 - Fig. 5 : Leather goods bought most frequently by Polish consumers En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hJ3ad5JZgmamd9WcVaBfxdfHsQ7w3uZ6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31095 [article]

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Study on possibility of oil migration according to fatliquoring agent characteristics / Jae-Hyung Park in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 247-250 Titre : Study on possibility of oil migration according to fatliquoring agent characteristics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jae-Hyung Park, Auteur ; Young-Woo Kim, Auteur ; Won Ju Kim, Auteur ; In-Kye Paik, Auteur ; Eun-Ji Kim, Auteur ; Hyun-Dae Cho, Auteur ; Hyung-Joon Youn, Auteur ; Han-Do Kim, Auteur ; Eun-Chul Shin, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 247-250 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir dans les automobiles Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Cuirs et peaux -- Détérioration Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Huiles et graisses Hydrolyse Produits chimiques -- Migration Produits de nourriture du cuir Réflexion totale atténuée Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The natural leather used for car interior materials is a traditional and high-quality material that can be applied to diverse purposes such as the steering wheel, knob, seat and internal trim. However, continuous friction and sweat from the driver causes the hydrolysis of high-molecular resins and the painted surfaces weakened under the high-temperature conditions of the car interior often lead to slipperiness and increased lustre owning to the migration of the fatliquoring agent. Thus, this study investigated the bonding between the leather and different types of fatliquoring agent, and their influence on oil migration by facilitating ageing (hydrolisis). The results revealed that the silicon- and lecithin-based fatliquoring agents had a significant influence on oil migration owning to the low bonding to the leather under the ageing condition. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES : Materials and apparatus - Process of leather manufacturing and measuring of physical properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Fat content in leather - Oil migration after hydrolisis - Attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared characterisation of oil migration - Table 1 : Characteristics of fatliquoring agent - Table 2 : Process for fatliquoring with chrome-tanned steer hide leather - Table 3 : Extraction solvents of fat in leather - Table 4 : Oil contents of leather sample treatment with fatliquoring agent according to extraction solvents - Table 5 : The results of monitoring of the oil migration on each specimen - Table 6 : Oil absorption film after oil migration - Table 7 : Main component of migration oil En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R2nzOqKwZm8GXwa9AsqB8OCMZcyvdHUp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31108 [article]

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Effects of PAA on the different scales of leather structure / Zou Xianglong in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 251-253 Titre : Effects of PAA on the different scales of leather structure Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Zou Xianglong, Auteur ; Chai Yuye, Auteur ; Lan Yunjun ; Li Zhongyu Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 251-253 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide polyacrylique Cuir -- Séchage Fibrilles de collagène La fibrille de collagène est une structure constituée d'un assemblage de fibres de tropocollagène (assemblage de 3 protéines de collagène alpha (alpha 1 - alpha 1 - alpha 2) en une hélice droite. Retannage Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In this article, the topology of fibrils and the aggregate structure of leather fibres were characterised by TEM and SEM to reveal the effects of PAA on the different scale of the structure of leather. The results show that PAA has little influence on the collagen molecules array and collagen fibres aggregate structure in the wet state. But, during air-drying PAA observably influences the collagen fibres aggregate structure. After being PAA retanned, the air-dried leather fibres become thinner and the space between fibres increases. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of PAA on the array of collagen molecules - Effect of PAA on the array of collagen fibres - Fig. 1 : TEM images of collagen fibrils ; no retanning and PAA retanning - Fig. 2 : SEM images of freeze drying collagen fibres : no retanning and PAA retanning - Fig. 3 : SEM images of air drying collagen fibres : no retanning and PAA retanning En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QZzoJ4QwM2kSxzcDjTnZOzrUmZTcUiJ1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31110 [article]

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The aggregation behaviour of leather collagen Fibres during drying in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 254-257 Titre : The aggregation behaviour of leather collagen Fibres during drying Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 254-257 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Collagène Cuir -- Séchage Précipitation (chimie) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The rule for the changes and mechanism influencing the structure of leather during drying were studied from the point of view of fibre movement, based on the stress state and combination mode of collagen fibres. The effect of capillary pressure difference force (CPDF) and hydrogen bonds on the aggregation behaviour of leather's collagen fibres during drying was investigated. The results showed that, during hang drying, under the action of CPDF, collagen fibres will move towards each other and bond by hydrogen bonds thus making the structure of dried leather stable. During freeze drying, the collagen fibres are not affected by CPDF and the fibres tend to maintain the original dispersed state. During hang drying, when the hydrogen bond force between collagen fibres is weakened by fatliquoring, the aggregate structure of collagen fibres is unstable, and collagen fibres can be easily re-dispersed by milling. The results of this research confirmed that, during drying, the change in the collagen fibres' aggregate structure is due to the process inwhich collagen fibres move and combine under the action of 'force'. The final dried leather structure is determined by the stress state and b combining ways of collagen fibres during drying. Note de contenu : - Analysis of influence factors of the change of collagen fibres aggregated structure during drying - Effect of CPDF on the aggregate behaviour of collagen fibres during drying - Effect of hydrogen bond combination on the aggregation behaviour of collagen fibres during drying - Table 1 : Fatliquoring processes - Fig. 1 : Stress state of capillary wall - Fig. 2 : SEM images of freeze drying and hang drying collagen fibres - Fig. 3 : Aggregate process of collagen fibres during hang drying and freeze drying - Fig. 4 : SEM images of no fatliquoring and fatliquoring collagen fibres - Fig. 5 : The change sketch map of aggregate structure of fatliquoring collagen fibres during hang drying and milling sequentially En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1No4yph7NY9u2mLUVuOYaM-3C9ebE9ttf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31111 [article]

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Tetraselmis sp. isolated from a microalgae consortium for tannery wastewater treatment / Aline de Cassia Campos Pena in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 258-261 Titre : Tetraselmis sp. isolated from a microalgae consortium for tannery wastewater treatment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aline de Cassia Campos Pena, Auteur ; Livia de Souza Schaumlöffel, Auteur ; Luciane Ferreira Trierweiler, Auteur ; Mariliz Gutterres, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 258-261 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Eaux usées -- Analyse Eaux usées -- Epuration Eaux usées -- Recyclage Tetraselmis Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Microalgae have been the subject of several studies in the wastewater treatment field due to their ability for the removal of various nutrients, organic load and to be a clean and economical way to treat pollutants. The effluents from leather finishing processing steps contain chemical pollutants due to the use of dyes, surfactants, toxic metals, emulsifying agents, retanning agents, oils, pigments, resins, among other chemicals added. In this work, the isolated microalgae Tetraselmis sp. was obtained from a microalgae consortium and evaluated for their ability for the treatment effluents collected from a tannery. The growth of microalgae biomass in these effluents in mixotrophic cultivation was analysed, as well as, the capacity of removal of total nitrogen (TN), total organic carbon (TOC), total carbon (TC), inorganic carbon (IC), ammonia (N-NH3), phosphorus (P-PO4), chemical oxygen demand (COD) and biological oxygen demand (BOD). The removal values observed for the 50R50T (50% raw/50% treated effluent) and 75R25T (75% raw/25% treated effluent) concentrations were 96.59% and 99.81% for phosphorus, 99.90% and 89.2% for ammoniacal nitrogen, 89.06% and 54.78% for TN, 40.46% and 43.54% for COD, 59.24% and 57.90% for TOC, 32.70% and 44.73% for BOD, respectively. The microalgae Tetraselmis sp. showed notable growth in mixotrophic cultivation, and the efficient removal of the controlled parameters indicate an enormous potential for application in tannery wastewater treatment. Note de contenu : - Isolation of microalgae from a consortium - Wastewater treatment experiments - Wastewater analyses - Fig. 1 : Optical microscopy of the microalgae consortium and isolated microalgae - Fig. 2 : Growth of the microalgae Tetraselmis sp. in along cultivation in composite effluents - Fig. 3 : Removal of total nitrogen along Tetraselmis sp. cultivation in composite effluents - Fig. 4 : Removal of ammonia along Tetraselmis sp. cultivation in composite effluents - Fig. 5 : Phosphorus removal along Tetraselmis sp. cultivation in composite effluents - Fig. 6 : Carbon removal along Tetraselmis sp. cultivaiton in composite effluent (50R50T) - Fig. 7 : Carbon removal along Tetraselmis sp. cultivation in composite effluent (75R25T) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p03lpq59XuihPsXYRjVq6r_HVpYvfSfB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31112 [article]

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Studies of structure changes of archeological leather by FTIR spectroscopy / Yang Zhang in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 262-267 Titre : Studies of structure changes of archeological leather by FTIR spectroscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yang Zhang, Auteur ; Zifan Chen, Auteur ; Chengming Wang, Auteur ; Yong Tian, Auteur ; Decai Gong, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 262-267 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiquités (objets anciens) -- Analyse Collagène -- Détérioration Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Cuirs et peaux -- Détérioration Essais accélérés (technologie) Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Tanins végétaux Tannage végétal Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to investigate protein structures in new vegetable-tanned and artificially aged leather as well as in waterlogged archaeological leather dating from the Warring State Period (475BC-221BC). The obtained quantitative and qualitative information on protein structure changes was useful to characterize the deterioration of the archaeological leather during ageing in the buried environment. Compared with those in new vegetable-tanned leather, the amide A and amide II bands in the artificially aged and archaeological leather shifted to lower wavenumbers, suggesting hydrogen bonding in the collagen in the artificially and naturally aged leather was weakened. The estimation of the relative percentages of collagen secondary structures based on the peak area of component bands in the amide III showed that a-helix structure of collagen convertet into a random coil structure in the artificially aged and archaeological leather. Besides, the characteristic absorption peaks of tannins appeared in the spectra of all archaeological leather samples, but the tannins content decreased, indicating that tannins present in the archaeological leather could be degraded or detanned. The results showed that there was an increase in disorder structures in the collagen molecular structure and that the crosslinking between the tannins and collagen was disrupted in archaeological leather. This study will help us to elucidate the deterioration mechanism and guide the conservation of archaeological leathers. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES : Samples - Accelerated ageing measurements - Instrumentation - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Analysis of FTIR spectra - Changes in collagen secondary structures - Degradation of vegetable tannins - Fig. 1 : FTIR spectra of new, artificially aged and archaeological leathers - Fig. 2 : Amide III curve-fitting spectra new vegetable-tanned leather, artificially aged leather, old 1 sqample, old 2 sample, old 3 sample - Fig. 3 : Comparison of the relative amount of secondary structures in amide III - Table 1 : FTIR spectra peak positions and assignments - Table 2 : Δv(vAl-vAll) and IR absorption ratio 1239/1450 cm-1 - Table 3 : Assignments and relative amounts of secondary structures in amide III En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/182gmLMtHUQgbH95e42H2-UOWa1aB22-_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31113 [article]

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The Leather Trades' Engineers of Massachusetts : Vaughn Morocco Machine Co. 1883-1891, Vaughn Machine Co. 1892-1904, Vaughn-Rood Machine Co. 1903-1905, Part 1 / Trevor Lyons in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 227-233 Titre : The Leather Trades' Engineers of Massachusetts : Vaughn Morocco Machine Co. 1883-1891, Vaughn Machine Co. 1892-1904, Vaughn-Rood Machine Co. 1903-1905, Part 1 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Trevor Lyons, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 227-233 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Appareils et matériels -- Histoire Ingénierie -- Histoire Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The Leather Trades' Engineers of Massachusetts: Vaughn Morocco Machine Co. 1883-1891 Vaughn Machine Co. 1892-1904 Vaughn-Rood Machine Co. 1903-1905 Part This paper traces the rise of an internationally important engineering concern developed by the Vaughn family in Salem and Peabody, Massachusetts (MA), United States. lnitially established to serve the needs of a specific local industry, the Vaughn Morocco Machine Co. was started in the early 1880s by Joseph Warren Vaughn and his three sons. The business name was changed to the Vaughn Machine Co. in 1892, after the company had expanded its sales more generally into leather manufacture. New machinery developments and continuous improvement of the `Vaughn' product range are detailed and illustrated; machinery which would eventually instigate major changes in leather manufacture worldwide. European demand for the company's equipment justified a sales and service depot being established in Germany with satellite marketing and repair branches in France and Britain. Part 2 pursues new machinery developments and the rise of a specific engineering rival. This new competitor combined with a different approach by management at the Vaughn Machine Co. ultimately led to the formation of new challenger — the Vaughn-Rood Machine Co. Note de contenu : - The putting-out machine - A leather shaving machine - Drum machine - Other patented machines - Diversification - Expansion and business changes - FIGURES : Batchelder blacking machine - Jones' bark cutting machine - Coomb's glazing machine - Pendulum whitening machine - Large scale, drum installation - The Vaughn belt knife splitting machine - Early version of Vaughn's heavy duty drum machine - Section through Vaughn's drum machine - The Sawyer leather measuring machine En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13iMC-CwWNRLVitcBsS7STAV7QmGhT4SQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31114 [article]

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