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Do leather anisotropic properties have an effect on shrinkage temperature ? / Ewa Marcinkowska in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIII, N° 5 (05/2018)
[article]
Titre : Do leather anisotropic properties have an effect on shrinkage temperature ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ewa Marcinkowska, Auteur ; Gabriela Zielinska, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 163-171 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Anisotropie
Chrome
Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques
Essais dynamiques
Glutaraldéhyde
Statistique
Tannage
Température de retrait
Traction (mécanique)Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Herein are the results of studies of mechanical properties and shrinkage temperature of cowhide leather tanned with modified glutaraldehyde and chrome. The tests were carried out on samples cut from both kinds of leather parallel and perpendicular to the backbone. The aim of these studies was determining whether the sample orientation to the backbone, thus leather anisotropic properties defined by its tensile strength and ultimate extension, has an effect on shrinkage temperature and kinetics of this process.
Mechanical properties were tested according to PN-EN ISO 3376:2012 Leather – Physical and mechanical tests – Determination of tensile strength and percentage extension. The conditions for shrinkage temperature measurements were set according to guidelines specified in PN-EN ISO 3380:2015-11 Leather – Physical and mechanical tests – Determination of shrinkage temperature up to 100°C. The experiment was carried out by using an instrument of our own design enabling automatic recording of leather specimen length changes during measurement.
The results of mechanical tests allowed the determination of the degree of differentiation of obtained tensile strength and ultimate extension values depending on test sample orientation to the backbone. For leather tanned with modified glutaraldehyde the coefficient of variation with respect to tensile strength in both directions was 0.31, while for chrome tanned leather was 0.44. The coefficient of variation for ultimate extension calculated for both directions was 0.55 and 0.42 for glutaraldehyde and chrome tanned leathers, respectively.
The slope of obtained regression lines was compared to find any statistically significant differences in leather shrinkage rate depending on orientation to the backbone. The results of analyses performed for two differently tanned leathers show no statistically significant differences in shrinkage rate depending on cut orientation. Thus, anisotropy of mechanical properties of leather samples under investigation does not affect both shrinkage temperature and the rate of this process.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL
- METHODS : Mechanical properties test method - Method to measure and analyze leather shrinkage temperature - Methods of statistical analysis
- TABLES : 1. Tensile strength and ultimate extension for themodified glutaraldehyde-tanned leather - 2. Tensile strength and percentage extension for the chrome-tanned leather - 3, 4, 5, 6 - Summary results of fitting a model y=A*+B at α = 0.05En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CtzGHhwPpBlMy9Wp8yw3WGOKxayuLAE5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30534
in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIII, N° 5 (05/2018) . - p. 163-171[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19877 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Leather goods notified to the rapex system in the years 2004-2017 - Notification analysis for countries of manufacture and notifying countries / Elzbieta Bielak in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018)
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Titre : Leather goods notified to the rapex system in the years 2004-2017 - Notification analysis for countries of manufacture and notifying countries Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elzbieta Bielak, Auteur ; Gabriela Zielinska, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 241-246 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Protection
Cuir
Maroquinerie
Produits chimiques -- Toxicologie
Substances dangereusesIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This paper analyses information pertaining to notifications of unsafe leather goods submitted to the EU Rapid Exchange of Information System (RAPEX) in the years 2004-2017. The number of leather goods reported in the system has been compared to total number of notifications on dangerous products classified in the category 'Clothing, textiles and fashion items' that includes leather goods. The notifications were analysed for the country of origin of leather goods as well as for the notifying country. This allows identification of countries from which the largest number of dangerous leather goods come, i.e., China, India and Pakistan, as well as countries most active in detecting them in their own domestic markets, i.e., Germany, Spain and Estonia.
The article presents also results of surveys related to opinions of Polish consumers towards the safety of leather goods they purchase as well as their awareness about the presence and functioning of the RAPEX system. The research showed the most of Polish consumers cannot clearly indicate whether the leather goods they buy are safe for health or not. Moreover, most of Polish customers have no knowledge of the presence and functioning of the RAPEX system.Note de contenu : - Countries of origin of dangerous leather goods notified in the RAPEX system
- Countries notifying dangerous leather goods in the RAPEX system
- The surveys on Polish consumer awareness about the safety of leather goods and the presence and operation of the RAPEX system
- Fig. 1 : Countries oforigin of leather goods notified in the RAPEX system
- Fig. 2 : Countries manufacturing leather goods most often notified in the RAPEX system in the years 2004-2017
- Fig. 3 : Countries notifying leather goods to the RAPEX system
- Fig. 4 : Countries most frequently notifying leather goods in the RAPEX system in the years 2004-2017
- Fig. 5 : Leather goods bought most frequently by Polish consumersEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hJ3ad5JZgmamd9WcVaBfxdfHsQ7w3uZ6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31095
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 5 (09-10/2018) . - p. 241-246[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20281 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Sensory and instrumental research of leather softness / Ewa Marcinkowska in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 104, N° 2 (03-04/2020)
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Titre : Sensory and instrumental research of leather softness Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ewa Marcinkowska, Auteur ; Gabriela Zielinska, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 105-109 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cuir
Douceur (toucher)
Mesure -- Instruments
Statistique
Surfaces -- AnalyseIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : A statistical analysis of the results of leather softness testing has indicated that there is a correlation between sensory evaluation scores and results of objective instrumental measurement. The tests were carried out by using 7 leather specimens, of which one was aldehyde-based syntan treated, while others were chrome tanned, and all the leathers were grain finished. Sensory evaluation of leather softness was performed by using the ranking method and the multiple ordering method with the participation of 70 panelists (judges). Based on calculated value of Kendall's W a moderate agreement among rates was found. Instrumental softness measurements on the same specimens were carried out according to a standardised leather softness assessment method with a softness tester. The value of the Spearman's rank correlation coefficient equal to 0.893 indicates a strong positive correlation between the results of the score assessment and instrumental measurements. A slightly weaker correlation, but still considered strong, equal to 0.821 was found between the results of the multiple ordering method and instrumental measurements. Note de contenu : - Sensory evaluation of leather softness
- Instrumental measurements of leather softness
- Table 1 : Test material characteristics
- Table 2 : Sensory evaluatio of leather softness by using the ranking method
- Table 3 : Sensory evaluation lf leather softness by using the multiple ordering method
- Table 4 : Results of statistical analysis of concordance between indications of sensory leather softness evaluation
- Table 5 : Results of leather softness measurements by using the instrumental method (PN-EN ISO 17235:2015)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/124DRtsSBcw0KXb2uVA7aPEIlmDYSgVk1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33916
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 104, N° 2 (03-04/2020) . - p. 105-109[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21654 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The bioindicator method for assessing safety in use of leathers, Part I : calorimetric measurements of bioindicator response to extracts from leathers / Gabriela Zielinska in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 100, N° 5 (09-10/2016)
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Titre : The bioindicator method for assessing safety in use of leathers, Part I : calorimetric measurements of bioindicator response to extracts from leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriela Zielinska, Auteur ; Ewa Marcinkowska, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 246-251 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Animaux -- Effets de la pollution de l'eau
Bactéries
Calorimétrie
Cuirs et peaux -- Aspect de l'environnement
Indicateurs biologiques
Pollution -- Lutte contre
Pollution -- Mesure
TannageIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : A method for assessing safety in use of leathers by using a living organism — bioindicator fs proposed. lt has been assumed that extracts obtained from Ieathers containing harmful chemical substances cause disturbances in vital functions of the bioindicator that transforrns into changes in heat emission from cens. An affect of extracts on the bioindicator was observed by using an isothermal calorimeter. The activity of Tetrahymena pyriformis was illustrated with heat power curves. It has been found that power curves were specific to Individuel extracts used and different from the curves determined from investigation of bioindicator activity in water. An analysis of heat power value clusters was made and allowed similar bioindicator's responses to water and individuel extracts to be indicated. An indicator enabling leathers with a possible adverse affect on living organisms to be eliminated. This indicator is defined as the ratio of the total heat emitted by the tested system to the control system expressed as percentage. Note de contenu : - LEATHER/WATER EXTRACTION METHOD : Calorimetric studies with bioindicator - Bioindicator - Calorimetric method En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xGURpIFAD6XlstWCrU6NsR8vLDO-8nGi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27089
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18411 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The bioindicator method for assessing safety in use of leathers, Part II : The study of the response of tetrahymena to leather extracts by using a microscope and the Clark electrode / Gabriela Zielinska in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 100, N° 6 (11-12/2016)
[article]
Titre : The bioindicator method for assessing safety in use of leathers, Part II : The study of the response of tetrahymena to leather extracts by using a microscope and the Clark electrode Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriela Zielinska, Auteur ; Ewa Marcinkowska, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 327-333 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse
Echantillonnage
Electrodes
Indicateurs biologiques
Microorganismes -- Respiration
Microscopie
Tetrahymena pyriformisIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : It has been assumed that the results of calorimetric measurements of heat emissions from the bioindicator cells in extracts taken from leathers (Part 1) are to be confirmed by microscopic studies and measurements of oxygen concentrations related to cellular respiration of Tetrahymena pyriformis. It has been observed that the exposure of the bioindicator in the calorimeter to a harmful extract caused behavioural, morphological and cytophysiological changes in cells. A reduced proliferation rate was also found. The kinetics of the oxygen concentration changes in samples containing the bioindicator and an extract was different from that of samples containing the bioindicator and water. Statistically significant differences between the average oxygen concentration in the systems were compared, thus indicating anomalies in respiratory processes. These results confirm that the changes in heat power values recorded in calorimetric measurements resulted from an effect of extracts on a living organism are related to disturbances in vital functions in cells. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Microscopic observations - Oxygen concentration measurements
- TEST RESULTS AND ANALYSIS : Microscopic observations of bioindicator cells in water and extractsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Me8ElPWPqRFoUk__w8g-Pnbssf1hmh5q/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27669
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18546 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible