Dépouillements

New 100% bio-based polymer for effective odor neutralization for a broad spectrum against common malodors / Gernot Marten in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 4-7 Titre : New 100% bio-based polymer for effective odor neutralization for a broad spectrum against common malodors Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gernot Marten, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 4-7 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères Odeurs -- Lutte contre Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The 100% bio-based polymer Zinador 22L is a completely new and improved performance technology against a broad range of odors in household and industry and provides an easier-to-use, more cost effective approach to formulating effective odor neutralizer compared with most commonly used zinc complexes into household and industrial products. It is low foaming, readily soluble in aqueous formulations without added surfactants and chelators, stable in hard water from pH 2 to 11 and in end-use formulations up to 60°C. It can be formulated with fragrances and leaves no surface residues on textiles. Note de contenu : - Odor reduction performance - Key benefits of zinador 22l - Fabric residue comparative performance - Formulation compatibility and stability - Fig. 1 : Molecular structure of Zinador 22L with the binding process of nitrogenous (trimethylamine) and sulfurous (3-mercapto-3-methylbutan-1-ol) odor molecules - Fig. 2 : Odor reduction panel test results for Zinador 22L to zinc ricinoleate (0.05% active zinc) - Fig. 3 : Fabric residue testing results on white cotton - Fig. 4 : Fabric residue testing results on red polyestser blend - Table 1 : Typical physical properties of Zinador 22L - Table 2 : Aqueous odor absorber - Table 3 : Carpet stain and spot remover - Table 4 : Liquid laundry detergent En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OvhYXzmLY36T_iualPJtJ8dEmqyVRXir/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31085 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

The new dimension of microcapsules : plastic-free encapsulation technology using functional vegan silk polypeptides / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 8-13 Titre : The new dimension of microcapsules : plastic-free encapsulation technology using functional vegan silk polypeptides Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Ralf Mehrwald, Auteur ; Natalie Blosl, Auteur ; Sabine Schlay, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 8-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Encapsulation Formulation (Génie chimique) Microcapsules Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Soie et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Functional vegan silk polypeptides are used in personal care products for protective benefits, such as a breathable anti-pollution protection, and as a natural fixator for long-lasting effects. One step further goes the development of the first easy-to-use functional cosmetic microcapsules without the need of microplastic. This opens up new dimensions for personal care products. Both, lipophilic substances as well as hydrophilic substances (e.g. fragrances, dyes) can be encapsulated by vegan silk, achieving prolonged efficacy and protection of actives. Note de contenu : - Encapsulation at a glance - Functional silk polypeptides enable the encapsulation of lipophilic substances - Encapsulation of water soluble substances using functional silk polypeptides - Fig. 1 : Formulations with functional silk microcapsules. Encapsulation of the model substances methylene blue and carmine (E120) with silk polypeptides - Fig. 2 : Schematic procedure for the encapsulation of lipophilic substances with functional silk polypeptidess. To show the encapsulation effect, the silk capsule can optionally be stained with specific - Fig. 3 : Blue -stained beta-carotene silk capsules appear green in a skin cream. Due to the mechanical stress applied during creaming, the capsule shell is destroyed and its contents are released, resulting in a yellow color change - Fig. 4 : Microscopic image using laser scanning microscopy (LSM) of silk capsules incorporated into an emulsion. The graph illustrates the homogenous size distribution of silk microcapsules with an average diameter of approx. 17 µm. 90% of the capsules range in size between 10 and 30 µm. - Fig. 5 : Scent intensity increases upon mechanical stress of silk capsules - Fig. 6 : Schematic composition and laser scanning image of hydrophilic silk - Fig. 7 : Manufacturing process of silk capsules containing water soluble substances. The encapsulation solution, consisting of liquefied silkgel, liqiud silk solution and the substance to be encapsulated, is transformed into an oil phase in single droplets. After solidification and washing, capsules are ready for the incorporation into cosmetic products - Table 1 : Stability parameters for silk capsules En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T8phxejr8AAR-T-RQjKl2tLqvyTSojEc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31086 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Glycolipids - a new era in natural cleansing / Kathrin Brandt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 14-19 Titre : Glycolipids - a new era in natural cleansing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kathrin Brandt, Auteur ; Verena Dahl, Auteur ; Alina Muss, Auteur ; Svenja Blaschek, Auteur ; Zorana Drljaca, Auteur ; Stefanie Volkmer, Auteur ; Hans Henning Wenk, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Biosurfactants Glycolipides Hygiène Nettoyage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The consumer's desire for natural and mild formulations without compromising on performance is one of the biggest challenges cosmetic formulators are facing. A breakthrough in biotechnology now enables the production of nature-identical glycolipids on industrial scale from a 100% renewable feedstock: the unique fermentation process is based exclusively on sugars. RHEANCE Glycolipids are the novel platform of all-natural surface-active products made by Evonik. RHEANCE One, the first member of this new class of ingredients, combines unprecedented environmental compatibility with high performance in multifunctional aspects: in skin, hair and oral care products, it offers maximum mildness and effective cleansing, while generating a dense and creamy foam quality with a pleasant soft touch. RHEANCE one opens up a dimension for formulating sustainable and natural cosmetics-even for the most demanding skin types. Note de contenu : - All-natural beaty products on the rise - Glycolipids-natural high performance - Rheance glycolipids-setting a new standard in natural and mild cleansing - Gentle to the environment-and gentle to the skin ! - Mild and effective are no longer mutually exclusive : Solubilization - Make-up removal - Foam characteristics - Perceivable benefits : rinse-off study on blemished skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1btNxQX_8rlWjmHowJNyKUF6Bo48xKTcF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31087 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Exploring nature-like elements for antimicrobial perservation efficacy / Paul Salama in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 20-25 Titre : Exploring nature-like elements for antimicrobial perservation efficacy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paul Salama, Auteur ; Naama Eylon, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Catalyse Concentration minimale inhibitrice (antimicrobiens) En microbiologie, la concentration minimale inhibitrice (CMI) est la plus faible concentration d'un produit chimique, généralement un médicament, qui empêche la croissance visible d'une ou de plusieurs bactéries. La CMI dépend du micro-organisme considéré, de l'être humain affecté (in vivo uniquement) et de l'antibiotique lui-même. La CMI est déterminée en préparant des solutions du produit chimique in vitro à diverses concentrations croissantes, en incubant les solutions avec des groupes séparés de bactéries en culture et en mesurant les résultats en utilisant une méthode de dilution standardisée (agar ou microdilution). Les résultats se classent ensuite comme "sensible", "intermédiaire" ou "résistant" à un antimicrobien particulier en utilisant un point d'arrêt. Les points d'arrêt sont des valeurs convenues, publiées dans les directives d'un organisme de référence, comme le US Clinical and Laboratory Standards Institute (CLSI), la British Society for Antimicrobial Chemotherapy (BSAC) ou le Comité européen sur les tests de sensibilité aux antimicrobiens (EUCAST). On a pu constater des écarts importants au niveau des points d'arrêt de divers pays européens au fil des ans, et entre ceux de l'EUCAST et du CLSI. Alors que la CMI est la concentration la plus faible d'un agent antibactérien nécessaire pour inhiber la croissance visible, la concentration bactéricide minimale (CBM) est la concentration minimale d'un agent antibactérien qui entraîne la mort bactérienne. Plus la CMI est proche de la CBM, plus le composé est bactéricide. La première étape de la découverte d'un médicament est souvent le dépistage d'un médicament candidat de banque de données pour les CMI contre les bactéries d'intérêt. En tant que tels, les CMI sont généralement le point de départ pour de plus grandes évaluations précliniques de nouveaux agents antimicrobiens. Le but de la mesure de la concentration minimale inhibitrice est de s'assurer que les antibiotiques sont choisis efficacement pour augmenter le succès du traitement. (Wikipedia) Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques -- Additifs Cosmétiques -- Stabilité Produits antisolaires Surfactants Synergie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The curent trends in cosmetic preservation leave the formulator with much narrower varieties of options, only facing a fast shrinking pool of compounds of interest. The personal care industry continues to seek natural, affordable mild yet effective preservative systems. As the development and registration of complete new synthetic preservatives molecules are generally considered as unattractive and cumbersome in terms of cost, time and consumer perception, the research objective was to boldly optimize the use of already authorized compounds, by means of revealing synergistic effects between hand-picked compounds, to be exploited to generate superior preservation efficacy. Research methods focused on a series of tests to asses antimicrobial activity of evaluated substances, such as minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), Challenge Test for Cosmetic according to Pharmacopoeia protocols (EP, USP), as well as other aspects evaluated by clinical and applicative studies performed using various representative cosmetic formulas. Note de contenu : - Synergistic effect enhances efficacy - Formulators' challenges - regulatory issues - Study: cationic catalysis to boost preservation efficacy - Preservation and stability of sun care products - Projects and goals - Preservative properties of maltol enhanced by cationic surfactants - Fig. 1 : Minimum inhibitory concentration values (ppm), comparison, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin vs its enhanced version containing cationic surfactant - Fig. 2 : Challenge test results, cosmetic facial cream, nonionic type, 0,5 % of cationic type preservative solution Sharomix TM Amplify - Fig. 3 : Challenge test results, anionic rinse-off surfactant-based based formula, 0.5 % of cationic type preserative solution Sharomix T% Amplify - Fig. 4 : Comparison of minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values, ppm - Fig. 5 : Challenge test results En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-x-N951z0O9xHdbXNQ0PKKAid84mG5IF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31088 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

High SPF sunscreens that feel light on the skin / Brigitte Lindemann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 26-30 Titre : High SPF sunscreens that feel light on the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brigitte Lindemann, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emollients Facteur de protection solaire Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tinosorb Lite Aqua is a cosmetic UV filter formulation that brings the oil-soluble, high performance and broad-spectrum UV filter Tinosorb S into the water phase. No other UV filter currently on the market provides broad-spectrum UV protection this effective in the water phase - without whitening effects and all while enabling water resistance. Potential applications include face care and sun care products for daily use. Tinosorb S lite Aqua helps manufacturers of sun care products cater for consumers who are looking for long-term protection against skin damage but who demand a product that feels light on the skin. Note de contenu : - Solubilizing BEMT in a polymer matrix - Proof of concept - Selection of emollients - Enhancing water resistance - Fig. 1 : Absorbance spectra of UV filters in solution, red : effective broad-spectrum BEMT - Fig. 2 : Tinosorb S Lite Aqua boosts sun protection - Fig. 3 : Choice of emollients with higher spreadability values and lighter sensory properties possible with Tinosorb S Lite Aqua - Table 1 : SPF in vivo and UVA-PF in vitro results - Table 2 : Choice of emollients in relation to UV filter BEMT in either oil or water phase - Table 3 : SPF in vivo and WR in vitro and in vivo results En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qXv_qU2b3AT29ZrrT2YGs1Z2Z67GzLID/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31089 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

A natural ingredient meets current expectations of the german skin care market / Yonatan Brenner in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 32-37 Titre : A natural ingredient meets current expectations of the german skin care market Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yonatan Brenner, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 32-37 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Antimicrobiens Collagène -- Synthèse Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques Evaluation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The market for cosmetics and skin-care products in Germany is where Tradition meets Progress. For over a century and a half, skin-care preparations — such as creams, masks, lotions and specialty treatments — have positioned their value around use of plants, roots and blossoms. For decades, cosmetics makers from Bavaria, Lower Saxony, Saarland and elsewhere have been accumulating a knowledge base, which relies on wielding the toning power of ingredients available at nature, and implementing them in consumer products aimed for topical skin care. It is now becoming more and more globally recognized that the most convincing products are the ones that are able to link between those natural ingredients, to empiric scientific research, which demonstrates the mechanism of action behind nature. The German cosmetics industry has positioned itself as third largest in the world, in terms of market size and export output. It has done so also by laying down an infrastructure of scientific substantiation, for efficacy claims made about consumer products. Clear guidelines measure the efficacy of an ingredient. Note de contenu : - New anti-aging ingredient - Fig. 1 : Wrinkle assessment by the researcher after 1 month. The investigator assessed the wrinkle condition around the eye at baseline, and after 4 weeks of application, in a scale of 0-10, whereas 0= no wrinkles, and 10= very severe wrinkle condition - Fig. 2 : Product assessment by the volunteers. The volunteers graded the level of agreement with the following statements in a 1-4 scale, 1 = totally disagree, 4 = totally agree - Fig. 3 : Comparative proliferation (BrdU assay ; colorimetric evaluation of turnover rate) - Fig. 4 : Regulating effect of Polevan TM on S. Epidermidis. (S. Epidermidis is a "positive" bacteria, so allowing it to grow normally is a positive effect - as opposed to other bacteria which need to inhibited - Fig. 5 : Change in collagen synthesis of selected treatments En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dn4atpQIhpEHdM-K21n3f04hESE046Os/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31327 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Simple and effective particle-size characterization of opaque emulsions / Lucile Bonnin in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 38-44 Titre : Simple and effective particle-size characterization of opaque emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lucile Bonnin, Auteur ; Burkhard Müller, Auteur ; Thomas Gassenmeier, Auteur ; Reinhard H. H. Neubert, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Evaluation Granulométrie Taille des particules Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Because emulsions are metastable, predicting their stability and phase bahavior is a crucial topic of research. Indeed, emulsions are widely used in the chemical industry and formulators must be able to asses their stability e.g. life-cycle or shelves-life. Although several devices, avaible on the market, are claiming to be able to asses emulsions' stability, they often use laser or ultrasound diffraction techniques which offer limited capabilities for studying opaque emulsions. This study is decribing how the usage of a simple light microscope, already present as a standard equipment in lots of laboratories, can lead to the precise assessment of the particle-size distribution of various cosmetic o/w emulsions. The light microscope was equipped with an objective (40x) having a negative phase-contrast ring. The particle-size characterization by means of phase-contrast microscopy enabled to draw conclusion about the stability over time of two o/w emulsions and to observe the influence of additives on their phase behavior. This novel image analysis method delivered relevant information about the particle-size distribution i.e. stability, of the emulsions at an earlier stage than classical stability tests mathods. Note de contenu : - Cosmetic O/W opaque emulsion : composition and formulation - Phase-contrast microscopy - Fig. 1 : Appearance of the o/w opaque cosmetic emulsion - Fig. 2 : Microstructure of the o/w emulsion forming a gel network (re-drawn from Klein [9]) - Fig. 3 : 40x objective equipped with a negative phase-contrast (Ph 2) mode - Fig. 4 : Representation of the phase-contrast microscopy base principle - Fig. 5 : Image analysis process of the o/w emulsion under phase-contrast microscopy - Fig. 6 : O/W emulsion's photomicrograph after automatic recognition of the particles clustered according to their radius (R) size - Fig. 7 : O/W emulsions containing either no (a) or 1% w/w additive (b) under phase-contrast light microscopy at t0 - Fig. 8 : Particle-size distribution of the o/w emulsion containing no additive at t0 and after 3 months storage at RT with N(t0)=13873 and N(3 months)= 12661 - Fig. 9 : Particle-size distribution of the o/w emulsion containing 1% w/w of additive at t0 and after 3 months storage at RT with N(t0)= 10689 and N(3 months)= 10229 - Table 1 : Composition of the opaque cosmetic o/w emulsion - Table 2 : Statistical results of the particle count for both o/w emulsions at t0 and after 3 months storage at RT En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tV5s3MbmMDc_ID0VGKhlM-NRRxS4LjVX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31328 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

A multifunctional solution for acne prone skin with a single natural active ingredient / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 46-52 Titre : A multifunctional solution for acne prone skin with a single natural active ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 46-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Flavonoïdes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Séborrhée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Prevention of acne or reduction of oily skin are challenging tasks for the cosmetic industry. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids are all specialized ingredients to either control corneocyte shedding, the microflora or to reprogram the cell's biochemistry. All of them are efficient specialists but no all-rounders. However, there are at least four trigger factors for the development of acne: activity of sebocytes, dihydrotestosterone level, inflammation and skin microbiota. It is difficult to develop active ingredients, which are suitable to cover all necessary needs to improve oily skin and as such, they are rare on the market. Additionally, very effective agents tend to irritate the skin and, like retinoic acid, are in most countries only available as prescriptive drugs from the dermatologist in effective concentrations. Acne vulgaris affects about 80 % of adolescents and young adults aged 11-30 years. Also in aged people, persistent acne is common in the Western civilizations. According to "The International Dermal Institute" 40 to 55 % of the adult population in the age of 20-40 have signs of persistent acne and oily skin. It is a major problem leading to discomfort, lowered self-confidence and the tendency to distract oneself from social life. Inflammation, hormonal state, activity of sebocytes and the skin microflora have influence on the development of acne. To prevent acne formation, normalization of oily skin is key. Oily skin is mainly caused by a chronic subliminal inflammatory state of the skin leading to a subtle change of the expressome of sebocytes. This leads to excess sebum — the ideal nutrition for unwanted microbes like Propionibacterium acnes, which in turn aggravates inflammation and further increases sebum production. As such, also a disturbed microflora can trigger the appearance of acne. Additionally, the hormonal state of the skin plays an important role: excess of dihydrotestosterone, derived from testosterone or 17-hydroxyprogesterone fuels the sebum production and inflaienmation. With SEBOCLEARTM-MP (INCI : Propanediol, Bioflavonoids), all four trigger factors of acne development are controlled to reach superior efficacy on acne prone skin. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The skin types : role of the steroid α-reductase - An elevated inflammatory state is an underlying condition of acne prone skin - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Inhibition of the steroid α-reductase - Inhibition of arachidonic acid processing enzymes - In vivo study - Bioflavonoids reduce signs of acne (in vivo study) - RESULTS : Bioflavonoids directly inhibit steroid α-reductase - Bioflavonoids shut down inflammation by blocking arachidonic acid processing enzymes - Maclura cochinchinensis extract reduces signs of acne (in vivo study) - Fig. 1 : The hormonal state of our body changes during lifetime. Starting with puberty, the sex hormones estradiol and testosterone rise dramatically in females or males, respectively. While in males, testosterone declines only subtle within a second half of life, women experience a rapid drop of of estradiol during menopause. Dta compiled from - Fig. 2 : Sebum production during lifetime. The sebum amount corresponds roughly to the sex hormone levels of androgens in males and estrogens in females. Dta compiled [5-8] - Fig. 3 : Inhibition of arachidonic acid processing counteracts the development of acne. The inflammatory mediators prostaglandins and leukotrienes are produced by the COX-1/COX-2 and 5-LPO enzymes from arachidonic acid. Inhibition of both pathways is required to shut down inflammation and to prevent an acne prone skin condition - Fig. 4 : Maclura cochinchinensis extract blocks the activity of steroid 5a-reductase. It prevents the generation of the highly active dihy¬drotestosterone from testosterone - Fig. 5 : Maclura bioflavonoids inhibit both pathways of inflammatory mediator generation from arachidonic acid. At a concentration of 0.1 %, Madura cochinchinensis extract significantly inhibits the constitutively expressed COX-1, as well as the inducible COX-2, elevated in acne prone and ageing skin. Also the activity of 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) is almost completely blocked - Fig. 6 :Maclura bioflavonoids decrease the number of active seba¬ceous glands. Compared to placebo, the number of active glands was significantly reduced after 84 days. Wilcoxon signed rank test - Fig. 7 : Maclura bioflavonoids are effective against open and closed comedones. After 84 days, open and closed comedones were significantly reduced. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with placebo - Fig. 8 : Maclura bioflavonoids reduce porphyrines. After 84 days, the porphyrins were significantly reduced proving a reduction of sebum and settlement of P. acnes - Fig. 9 : The total lesion count is significantly reduced after application of 3 % Maclura cochinchinensis extract. After 84 days, the total lesions including inflammatory spots were reduced by 35 %. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with placebo - Fig. 10 : Maclura bioflavonoids reduce inflammatory spots. After 84 days, red spots were significantly reduced by 22 % over baseline and placebo. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with comparison with placebo En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1esjtx3MxNzKOyXzYjNyqPEBJB4R2piG3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31329 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Innovative sunscreen with cooling effect for protection in the VIS and NIR regions for Asian skin type / Alexandra Lan in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 54-61 Titre : Innovative sunscreen with cooling effect for protection in the VIS and NIR regions for Asian skin type Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexandra Lan, Auteur ; Bin Chen, Auteur ; Lei Ye, Auteur ; Keesuh Lee, Auteur ; Nan Lu, Auteur ; Dongfang Kang, Auteur ; Jürgen Lademann, Auteur ; Sabine Schanzer, Auteur ; Silke Barbara Lohan, Auteur ; Martina C. Meinke, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 54-61 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents rafraichissants Antiradicalaire Facteur de protection solaire Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau asiatique Produits antisolaires Protection contre le rayonnement infrarouge Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In view of the globally increasing incidence of skin cancer, sun exposure and the application of sunscreens are steadily gaining in importance. Today it is known that skin damage is caused not only by UV-induced erythema but also by increased amounts of free radicals that are formed by solar radiation in the visible and near infrared (NIR) spectral regions and sun protection could be different for the different skin types. The antioxidant capacity and the scattering properties of the formulation were determined as important protection beyond ultraviolet (UV) light. The radical protection in the visible and NIR regions was determined ex vivo using EPR spectroscopy. The cooling effect of the formulation was analyzed on Asian skin in vivo, and the NIR protection was investigated by measuring cutaneous carotenoids before and after NIR radiation. The company Pechoin was the 'first en¬terprise to develop a sunscreen for the skin types III — VI. This product protects efficiently both from UV and NIR solar radiation. Its formulation consists of a well-balanced selection of titanium dioxide pigments, highly efficient antioxidants as used in the traditional Chinese medicine, and coolants. Thanks to all these ingredients the concentration of radicals can be clearly reduced, especially in darker skin types. Note de contenu : - Subjects - Sunscreen - Determination of the Radical Protection Factor (RPF) of the ingredients and the sunscreen sample - Determination of the optical properties of the sunscreen sample - Cooling effect in vivo - SPF determination in vivo - NIR protection in vivo - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : RPF and scattering coefficient µs' at 800 nm of the investigated formulation compared to previously investigated sunscreen (12) shown - Fig. 1 : Optical properties absorption µa and scattering effective coefficient µs' of the new sunscreen between 450 and 800 nm - Fig. 2 : Cumulative radical formation in the skin after irradiation with 71 mW in the VIS/NIR spectral range. Mean ± SEM, *** p ⩽ 0.001 ; statistically significant difference in relation to unprotected skin (untreated) - Fig. 3 : Box plot of the radical production in the skin after 10 min VIS/NIR irradiation (*** p ⩽ 0.001) - Fig. 4 : Skin temperature course measured before and during NIR irradiation (60mW/cm2). At treated area 2 mg/cm2 sunscreen was applied, n=10 - Fig. 5 : Relative carotenoid concentration in the skin, before and after NIR irradiation (60m/W/cm2) for untreated and sunscreen treated skin (2 mg/cm2), n=6 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OlmTHFwrDGMPYLLEfhTDql9zd4WLTo1j/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31330 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20515	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible