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Spectroscopic analysis of Turkey red oil samples as a basis for understanding historical dyes textiles / Julie H. Wertz in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 320-326 Titre : Spectroscopic analysis of Turkey red oil samples as a basis for understanding historical dyes textiles Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julie H. Wertz, Auteur ; David J. France, Auteur ; Anita Quye Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 320-326 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Antiquités (objets anciens) -- Analyse Chimie analytique Colorants -- Analyse Huiles et graisses Rouge (couleur) Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Heritage conservation science is a valuable technique for improving understanding and the preservation of historical objects. Material analysis of heritage textiles and related materials provides information about polymer and colorant degradation, and contributes to improved conservation and display practices. The re‐creation of materials following historical processes is useful for testing analytical techniques in a field where ethical constraints often limit sampling, and to also identify potential age‐related changes relative to a fresh product. Despite the broad historical interest and industrial significance of Turkey red from the late eighteenth to the nineteenth century, little about the chemical complex of these unique textiles was understood in scientific terms. This study applied modern analysis with 1H and 13C nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy to investigate the conclusions reached by nineteenth century chemists, that fatty acids were a key component of the oil treatment, a unique and vital aspect of the Turkey red dyeing process. The results show that Turkey red oil samples are composed of fatty acids which tend to polymerise over time, and that modern commercial Turkey red oil has a similar composition to historical samples and a replica sample made following a nineteenth century method. This information was used to form a hypothesis for the overall Turkey red complex on the fibre, and confirmed that the experimental work of nineteenth century chemists was theoretically accurate despite their lack of precise analytical techniques. This indicates that a re‐creation and analysis approach is effective for studying heritage materials, provided the historical practice for making the original object is taken into consideration. Note de contenu : - Reagents and references - Replica TRO - Historical TRO samples - NMR sample preparation - Acid value DOI : 10.1111/cote.12343 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12343 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31157 [article]

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Functional finishing and coloration of textiles with nanomaterials / Shagufta Riaz in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 327-345 Titre : Functional finishing and coloration of textiles with nanomaterials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Shagufta Riaz, Auteur ; Munir Ashraf, Auteur ; Tanveer Hussain ; Muhammad Tahir Hussain ; Abdur Rehman ; Amjed Javid ; Kashif Iqbal ; Abdul Basit ; Humera Aziz Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 327-345 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Argent Dioxyde de titane Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Nanoparticules Nanoparticules -- Toxicologie Résistance au froissement Silice La silice est la forme naturelle du dioxyde de silicium (SiO2) qui entre dans la composition de nombreux minéraux. La silice existe à l'état libre sous différentes formes cristallines ou amorphes et à l'état combiné dans les silicates, les groupes SiO2 étant alors liés à d'autres atomes (Al : Aluminium, Fe : Fer, Mg : Magnésium, Ca : Calcium, Na : Sodium, K : Potassium...). Les silicates sont les constituants principaux du manteau et de l'écorce terrestre. La silice libre est également très abondante dans la nature, sous forme de quartz, de calcédoine et de terre de diatomée. La silice représente 60,6 % de la masse de la croûte terrestre continentale. Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus auto-nettoyants Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Global demand for functional textiles is continually increasing for both conventional as well as advanced technical applications. Nanomaterials have the potential to transform the textile industry by imparting multifunctional properties such as physical, chemical and biological self‐cleaning, ultraviolet (UV) protection, wrinkle resistance and coloration to textiles without compromising the inherent characteristics of the substrate. This review highlights some of the major applications of nanomaterials to textile substrates to obtain different functional properties. Possible side effects of the nanomaterials on textiles are also reviewed, along with potential hazards to humans and the environment. Note de contenu : - FUNCTIONAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES ENHANCED WITH NANOMATERIALS : Physical self-cleaning - Chemical self-cleaning - Wrinkle resistance - Textile coloration - SIDE EFFECTS AND RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH THE APPLICATION OF NANOMATERIALS : Risks associated with silver NPs - Risks associated with silver oxide NPs - Risks associated with silica NPs - Risks associated with titanium dioxide NPs - OVERCOMING THE RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH NANOMATERIALS - THE FUTURE OF NANOMATERIAL APPLICATIONS IN TEXTILES DOI : 10.1111/cote.12344 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12344 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31159 [article]

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Developments in the chemistry and applications of phthalein dyes. Part 2 : biological applications / Ram W. Sabnis in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 347-363 Titre : Developments in the chemistry and applications of phthalein dyes. Part 2 : biological applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ram W. Sabnis, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 347-363 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants -- Applications industrielles Phtaléine Les phtaléines forment une famille de composés chimiques. Leur structure de base est celle du triphénylméthane et elles possèdent un cycle lactone : R-CO-O-R' entre le carbone central et le carbone en ortho d'un des trois cycles benzéniques. Beaucoup de phtaléines possèdent la particularité d'être colorées, voire de changer de couleur en fonction du pH. Ces caractéristiques leur permettent d'être utilisées comme colorant ou comme indicateur de pH. Les deux composés les plus connus de cette famille sont la phénolphtaléine et la thymolphtaléine. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : This review describes the huge impact of phthalein dyes on multiple industries. Although phthalein dyes demonstrate several vital applications, there appears to be no review in the literature. Part 2 of the review focuses on developments in the chemistry and biological applications of phthalein dyes. The biological applications of phthalein dyes are grouped into agrochemical, biochemical, food, personal care, pharmaceutical and sensors applications. The importance of these dyes in various commercial products is also revealed, and patent analysis is provided in the Appendix. The uses of phthalein dyes in various fields are important but their growing popularity with fascinating colour change features is particularly notable. Part 1 of the review focused on developments in the chemistry and industrial applications of phthalein dyes. The industrial applications of phthalein dyes are grouped into building/construction applications, coatings applications, electronic/electrical applications and miscellaneous applications. Note de contenu : - Agrochemical applications - Biochemical applications - Enzymatic applications - Food applications - Personal care applications - Dental/oral care - Hair care - Skin care - Pharmaceutical applications - Sensors applications DOI : 10.1111/cote.12353 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12353 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31160 [article]

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Artificial neural networks for optimising camera-based colour measurements of prints enhanced with pearlescent pigments / Ivana Tomic in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 364-372 Titre : Artificial neural networks for optimising camera-based colour measurements of prints enhanced with pearlescent pigments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ivana Tomic, Auteur ; Sandra Dedijer, Auteur ; Dragoljub Novakovic ; Ivana Juric Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 364-372 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorimétrie Photographie numérique Pigments nacrés Réseaux neuronaux (informatique) Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Pearlescent pigments are widely used in printing due to their optical, chemical and physical properties. To analyse the effects of goniochromism they produce, the colorimetric characterisation of materials printed with pearlescent pigments requires multi-angular measurements. In this study, the colours of prints enhanced with pearlescent pigments were measured by means of a digital camera, relying on the empirical camera characterisation method. Since this method is time-consuming, it was altered to enable estimates of colorimetric values for different geometries to be measured on the basis of images captured at one viewing angle. This approach was based on the use of artificial neural networks which were shown to provide sufficient flexibility for the given task. The results indicate that the images obtained at the viewing angle of 45° aspecular (measuring geometry 45°/asp 45°) accurately estimate CIELab values for all of the tested measuring geometries. The proposed method is therefore not only time-efficient but also reduces the associated errors due to the camera's movement, and enables the estimation of colorimetric values for those viewing angles inaccessible by camera. DOI : 10.1111/cote.12346 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12346 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31161 [article]

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Design and intelligent colour regulation of luminescent silk chemically bonded with Eu(III) and Eu(III)/Tb(III) / Xingfang Xiao in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 373-380 Titre : Design and intelligent colour regulation of luminescent silk chemically bonded with Eu(III) and Eu(III)/Tb(III) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Xingfang Xiao, Auteur ; Lipei Ren, Auteur ; Yawei Zhang ; Qian Zhang ; Sanping Zhao ; Ruina Liu ; Weilin Xu Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 373-380 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Fibres textiles synthétiques Luminescence Microscopie Morphologie (matériaux) Photostabilité Soie artificielle Solidité de la couleur Terres rares Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Design and successful synthesis of a series of novel luminescent silk chemically modified with europium(III) [Eu(III)] and europium(III)/terbium(III) [Eu(III)/Tb(III)] is reported. The modified silk specimens were characterised by infrared spectroscopy, fluorescence spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and evaluated for their colour fastness. The rare earth ions were linked to the silk fibre via chemical bonds with the aid of tetracarboxylic acids used as the bridging ligands. Therefore, the modified silk had excellent luminescent stability and colour fastness to water and sunlight. Based on the blue fluorescence of silk along with the red and green luminescence of Eu(III) and Tb(III), respectively, under ultraviolet irradiation intelligent colour regulation was easily achieved by adjusting either the amount of Eu(III) or the ratio of Eu(III)/Tb(III). The Commission International de l'Eclairage chromaticity co‐ordinates calculated from the emission spectra also confirm the colour changes. Benefiting from the tunable colour and high stability, the modified silk could be an excellent candidate for applications in anti‐counterfeiting and flexible tunable light‐ emitting materials. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and physical measurements - Synthesis of fluorescent silk modified by Eu(III) using BTCA as bridging ligand and PMA as bridging ligand - Synthesis of fluorescent silk modified by Eu(III)/Tb(III) with BTCA as bridging ligand and PMA as bridging ligand - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Structure an dmorphology of the silk modified by Ln(III) [Ln(III) = Eu(III) or Eu(III)L/Tb(III)] - Luminescence properties - Colour fastness to water and sunlight DOI : 10.1111/cote.12345 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12345 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31162 [article]

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Synthesis and application of a novel, triphendioxazine-based, phosphorus-containing acid dye for wool / Jinhai Cui in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 381-389 Titre : Synthesis and application of a novel, triphendioxazine-based, phosphorus-containing acid dye for wool Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jinhai Cui, Auteur ; Shufen Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 381-389 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bleu marine Colorants -- Synthèse Colorants acides Laine Photostabilité Triphénodioxazine Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : A novel phosphorus‐containing acid dye based on triphendioxazine was designed and synthesised from diphenylamine through a series of reactions. The dye has a navy-blue colour, high molar extinction coefficient of 5.32 × 104 l/mol·cm, and high substantivity for dyeing wool in a salt-free, aqueous dyebath. A high exhaustion value of 98.2% on wool fabrics was recorded at 3% omf and a liquor ratio of 1:20. The wash fastness values of the acid dye, including colour change and staining on cotton and wool, were grades 5, 4 and 4–5, respectively. The dry and wet fastness are grades 4–5 and 4, respectively. In addition, light fastness reaches grades 6–7 at 3% omf dye concentration. These dye properties are better than those of commercial triphendioxazine dyes, for example, CI Direct Blue 106 and CI Reactive Blue 198, under analogous dyeing conditions. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Methods - Synthesis of PAS from triphendioxazine - Measurement of UV-visible spectra, standard dyeing curves and PAD dyeing curves - Measurements for the performance of dyed wool - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Synthesis of PAD from triphendioxazine and its spectrum - Effect of pH on the dyeing properties of PAD - Effect of inorganic salts on the dyeing properties of PAD - Effect of the dye amount on the dyeing properties of PAD - Colour fastness of the dyes wool fabrics DOI : 10.1111/cote.12352 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12352 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31163 [article]

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The molecular structure of anionic species of 2,4,5,7-tetranitrofluorescein as studied by electrospray ionisation, nuclear magnetic resonance and X-ray techniques / Nicolay O. Mchedlov-Petrossyan in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 390-399 Titre : The molecular structure of anionic species of 2,4,5,7-tetranitrofluorescein as studied by electrospray ionisation, nuclear magnetic resonance and X-ray techniques Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nicolay O. Mchedlov-Petrossyan, Auteur ; Klaus Steinbach, Auteur ; Natalya Vodolazkaya ; Denis V. Samoylov ; Sergey V. Shekhovtsov ; Irina V. Omelchenko ; Oleg V. Shishkin Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 390-399 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Colorants -- Analyse Nitrofluorescéine Pulvérisation Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Among the fluorescein dyes, the behaviour of their nitro derivatives in solution is most unusual, and yet at the same time rarely studied. In this study, their 13C nuclear magnetic resonance and electrospray spectra are reported, which confirm, in concert with their ultraviolet-visible spectra, the molecular structures of the neutral and ionic species of 2,4,5,7-tetranitrofluorescein observed in different solvents and at various pH values. A peculiar property of this dye consists in its lactonisation of the double-charged anion, contrary to the well-known coloured and fluorescent dianions of fluorescein, eosin, etc. Also, this dianion-lactone exhibits high ability for opening the pyran ring. This cleavage takes place at much lower pH values as compared with those for fluorescein and its halogen derivatives. The ruptured species can be formed as either lactone or carbinol ; the latter appears as a result of the nucleophilic attack of a HO- on the central carbon atom. The corresponding molecular structures are identified via the electrospray method and X-ray analysis. The behaviour of some other nitrofluoresceins in alkaline media is also considered. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Apparatus - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Electronic spectra - C NMR spectra - Electrospray studies - X-ray studies of th ehighly alkaline forms of TNF - The behavious of other nitrofluoresceins, fluoresceins and phtaleins in aqueous alkaline media DOI : 10.1111/cote.12351 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12351 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31164 [article]

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Modification of polypropylene fibres with cationic polypropylene dispersion for improved dyeability / Amalid Mahmud-Ali in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 5 (10/2018) . - p. 400-407 Titre : Modification of polypropylene fibres with cationic polypropylene dispersion for improved dyeability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Amalid Mahmud-Ali, Auteur ; Tom Wright, Auteur ; Tung Pham ; Thomas Bechtold Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 400-407 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dispersions et suspensions Polymères en émulsion Polypropylène Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Traîtements de surface Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Polypropylene (PP) fibres are important hydrophobic fibres which are used in the production of functional textiles such as sports textiles. The absence of functional groups and low polarity make PP fibres difficult to dye, thus mass coloration during fibre extrusion is the major technique applied today. However, the disadvantage of mass coloration is the low flexibility and the demand to produce high volumes. A new method to modify the surface of PP fibres utilises the deposition and thermal fixation of cationic PP dispersion. Through padding and thermal fixation of a cationic PP dispersion, dyeable 100% PP fibres can be obtained. The effects of fixation temperature, and of the amount of dispersion used on the modified fibres were studied using Fourier Transform‐infrared spectroscopy, laser scanning microscopy, dyeing experiments with CI Acid Red 151, and by determining selected fastness properties. The results indicate the potential of this new method to produce surface‐modified 100% PP fibres, which can be dyed in conventional acid‐dyeing processes and therefore used in fibre blends, for example in combination with wool. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Fibre modification - Dyeing procedure - Colour measurement and photometry - Fastness measurements - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Fastness properties - Treatment of fibre bands DOI : 10.1111/cote.12354 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12354 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31165 [article]

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