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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE / Société Française de Cosmétologie . Vol. 39, N° 6Mention de date : 12/2017Paru le : 02/11/2017 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierDetermination of cyclic volatile methylsiloxanes in personal care products by gas chromatography / Herbert M. Brothers in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Determination of cyclic volatile methylsiloxanes in personal care products by gas chromatography Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Herbert M. Brothers, Auteur ; T. Boehmer, Auteur ; R. A. Campbell, Auteur ; S. Dorn, Auteur ; J. J. Kerbleski, Auteur ; S. Lewis, Auteur ; C. Mund, Auteur ; D. Pero, Auteur ; K. Saito, Auteur ; M. Wieser, Auteur ; W. Zoller, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 580-588 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromatographie en phase gazeuse
Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques -- Analyse
Organosilicones
shampooings
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Organosiloxanes are prevalent in personal care products (PCPs) due to the desired properties they impart in the usage and application of such products. However, the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) has recently published restriction proposals on the amount of two cyclic siloxanes, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D5), allowed in wash off products such as shampoos and conditioners which are discharged down the drain during consumer use. This legislation will require that reliable analytical methods are available for manufacturers and government agencies to use in documenting compliance with the restrictions. This article proposes a simple analytical method to enable accurate measurement of these compounds down to the circa 0.1 weight per cent level in PCPs.
Methods : Although gas chromatography methods are reported in the literature for quantitation of D4 and D5 in several matrices including PCPs, the potential for generation of false positives due to contamination, co-elution and in situ generation of cyclic volatile methylsiloxanes (cVMS) is always present and needs to be controlled. This report demonstrates the applicability of using a combination of emulsion break, liquid–liquid extraction and silylation sample preparation followed by GC-FID analysis as a suitable means of analysing PCPs for specific cVMS.
Results : The reliability and limitations of such methodology were demonstrated through several round-robin studies conducted in the laboratories of a consortium of silicone manufacturers. In addition, this report presents examples of false positives encountered during development of the method and presents a comparative analysis between this method and a published QuEChERS sample preparation procedure to illustrate the potential for generation of false positives when an inappropriate approach is applied to determination of cVMS in personal care products.
Conclusion : This report demonstrates that an approach to determine cVMS levels in personal care products is to perform an emulsion break on the sample, isolate the non-polar phase from the emulsion break and treat with a silylation reagent to abate potential in situ formation of cyclics during the course of GC-FID analysis. Round-robin studies conducted in laboratories representing multiple siloxane manufacturers demonstrated the reliability of the GC-FID method when measuring cVMS in PCPs down to circa 0.1%.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : GC method - Chemicals - Materials - Gas chromatograph - GC method and sample preparation - Calibration - Inter-laboratory round-robin studies - Preparation of shampoo and conditioner lab formulation samples - Commercially available personal care product samples - Additional sample preparations and analysis by GC-MS
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Round-robin analysis of laboratory formulations and commercially available personal care products - Considerations regarding analysis of cVMS in personal care products - Potential for thermal degradation in GC - Potential for interferences - Impact of sample preparation on chromatography - Impact of sample preparation on false positivesDOI : 10.1111/ics.12411 En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.12411 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29468
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Retinyl propionate and climbazole combination demonstrates clinical improvement to the appearance of hyperpigmentation and deep wrinkling with minimal irritation / S. Hawkins in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Retinyl propionate and climbazole combination demonstrates clinical improvement to the appearance of hyperpigmentation and deep wrinkling with minimal irritation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Hawkins, Auteur ; J. Adamus, Auteur ; C.-y. Chiang, Auteur ; E. Covell, Auteur ; J. O'Leary, Auteur ; J.-m. Lee, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 589-599 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Climbazole
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photovieillissement (dermatologie)
Rétinyl propionateIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : To evaluate a combination of retinyl propionate and climbazole (RPC) compared to 0.1% retinol for its efficacy, tolerance and ageing appearance.
Method : Forty-five healthy Caucasian females, ages 40–70, with moderately photodamaged facial skin, were recruited for a 16-week randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved facial study. The efficacy of RPC treatment was compared to 0.1% retinol, in the same product base formulation, with twice daily, split-face product application. Changes in overall photodamage, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and irritation were visually evaluated and measured by instrumentation. Subjective appraisal of efficacy was self-assessed from images where subjects were blinded to treatment and time point. Irritancy potential was also evaluated in a 5-day randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved patch study.
Results : Treatment with RPC resulted in significant (P < 0.05) improvement in ageing attributes compared to 0.1% retinol treatment, with minimal irritation. More than 50% of subjects showed improvement to deep wrinkles in the crow's feet area after 5 weeks of product application, and continued improvement to deep wrinkles was observed throughout the course of the study. Similarly, improvement was observed for the appearance of lines and wrinkles in the nasolabial fold (NLF) and for mottled hyperpigmentation. The results from subjective self-assessment confirmed in vivo clinical assessments. In a separate patch study, significantly less irritation was observed with the RPC product as compared to the 0.1% retinol control product.
Conclusion : RPC delivered significant skin anti-ageing benefits comparable or greater than 0.1% retinol, with minimal irritation.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Clinical safety study design and treatment - Clinical efficacy study design and treatment - Clinical assessments - VISIA -CR image analysis - PRIMOS analysis - Photograph self-assessments - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Safety study -Efficacy study
- DISCUSSIONDOI : 10.1111/ics.12412 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29469
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Effect of a peptide in cosmetic formulations for hair volume control / C. F. Cruz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Effect of a peptide in cosmetic formulations for hair volume control Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. F. Cruz, Auteur ; A. Ribeiro, Auteur ; M. Martins, Auteur ; A. Cavaco-Paulo, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 600-609 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Air -- Humidité
Cheveux -- analyse
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Climat
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
PeptidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBbjective : The capacity of hair to absorb water causes changes in its physical and cosmetic properties under different environmental conditions. Hence, the control of hair volume in variable relative humidity settings is an important topic in cosmetics. The behaviour of two types of hair, Caucasian and Asian, was studied regarding their volume change in different relative humidity conditions. The ability of a peptide as a hair volume treatment was evaluated in two climate control formulations.
Methods : Tresses of the two types of hair were tested in two relative humidity (RH) conditions: (A) variable relative humidity (2 h 40% RH, followed by 2 h 90% RH and 2 h of 40% RH), and (B) continuous high relative humidity (90% RH for 6 h). Changes in the hair tress volume were assessed throughout time. Hair treated with two climate control formulations, with and without a peptide (KP peptide), were tested under the two relative humidity conditions.
Results : Caucasian hair had a higher change in volume compared to the Asian hair in variable and high relative humidity conditions. The hair volume increase when subject to high air humidity, and it was lower with the incorporation of a peptide into climate control formulations.
Conclusion : Caucasian hair showed higher volume than Asian hair when submitted to both relative humidity conditions. The incorporation of the peptide into the climate control formulations, a base (mostly composed of water ≈ 94%) and an ethanolic, was found to reduce the volume of Caucasian hair tresses. The presence of the peptide improved the hair volume change more than 60% in high relative humidity conditions.Note de contenu : - Volume assessment of Caucasian and Asian hair in different relative humidity conditions
- Volume assessment of hair treated with climate control formulations
- Thermogravimetric behaviour of the treated hair with the formulationsDOI : 10.1111/ics.12415 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29470
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties / A. Galliano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Galliano, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; F. Su, Auteur ; C. Wang, Auteur ; Y. Wang, Auteur ; C. Liu, Auteur ; A. Wagle, Auteur ; M. Guerin, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; A. Steel, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 610-616 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chimie analytique
Particules (matières)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Background : The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon.
Objectives : (i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under ‘real-life’ conditions of severe aerial pollution and (iii) to assess the changes of the hair surface properties, potentially caused by the adherence of airborne PM onto the hair.
Methods : In vitro : a PM was sprayed onto untreated or sebum-coated hair swatches. Real-life conditions : other swatches were exposed to a severely polluted environment, for 24 to 72 h, in Baoding (PR China). In both cases, swatches were examined using scanning electron microscopy. The shine, the frictional properties and the level of metals were measured and compared to those same properties for the unexposed swatches.
Results : This work clearly indicates that, under real-life conditions, a large number of PM of various sizes are deposited onto the hair surface. This phenomenon is increased by the presence of sebum and longer exposure times. The in vitro level of PM deposited onto the hair surface is comparable to the in vivo level. The presence of sebum seems to favour the deposit of larger PM. The shine of the exposed swatches is significantly decreased, whereas their respective friction coefficients are significantly increased. Both the presence of sebum and length of exposure time increased the amount of analysed metals present on the exposed hair surface (Al, Fe, Cu, Ba and Zn).
Conclusion : This work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real-life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase in friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair swatches - In vitro and real-life protocols - Instrumental and visual/tactile determinations - Statistics
- RESULTS : Adhesion of particulate matter (PM) onto the hair surface - Impact on frictional properties - Impact on hair shine - Presence of metals
- DISCUSSIONDOI : 10.1111/ics.12416 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29471
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Reinforcement of barrier function and scalp homeostasis by Senkyunolide A to fight against dandruff / Philippe Mondon in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Reinforcement of barrier function and scalp homeostasis by Senkyunolide A to fight against dandruff Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Mondon, Auteur ; Caroline Ringenbach, Auteur ; E. Doridot, Auteur ; V. Genet, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 617-621 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Barrière cutanée
Chimie végétale
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Pellicules (dermatologie)
RosacéeLa rosacée, connue aussi sous le nom de couperose, est une maladie cutanée incurable au départ bénigne qui se manifeste par des rougeurs chroniques au niveau du nez, des joues, parfois aussi au niveau du menton et du front. Ces symptômes s'accompagnent d'une sensation de picotement, notamment au niveau des yeux. De petits vaisseaux sanguins, caractéristiques des varicosités sont souvent visibles dans les zones touchées associées à des télangiectasies.
La maladie est évolutive et peut provoquer des crises d'acné, notamment en cas de stress ou de fatigue, et, à un stade avancé, faire enfler le nez du sujet qui reste rouge et bosselé (rhinophyma). Lorsque la rosacée est à un stade plus avancé, ou soumise à différents facteurs, elle peut aussi durement affecter la vue du sujet qui en est atteint et un examen dermatologique est recommandé.
Celle maladie se distingue de l'érythrose faciale qui est un érythème diffus disparaissant à la vitropression.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Senkyunolide-A (SENKY) can be isolated from Apium graveolens seed oil obtained using supercritical CO2 extraction. SENKY and its parent compounds, the N-butyl phthalides, have been demonstrated to protect cells from CO poisoning, to prevent diabetes mellitus and to decrease cancer cell proliferation. This study was undertaken to evaluate in vitro and in vivo the effect of SENKY on epidermal function improvement, Malassezia effect control, scalp soothing and dandruff reduction via skin protection-related pathways.
Methods : DNA-array and proteomic studies were performed on human keratinocytes, sebocytes and skin explants to demonstrate SENKY activities. Two clinical evaluations were performed under dermatologist control on 106 volunteers, with greasy or dry scalp, experiencing dandruff, itching and redness. Volunteers tested a shampoo followed, or not, by a leave-on, containing SENKY, or their placebos. Dandruff severity and redness were scored on the scalp. Moisturization and sebum release were recorded using relevant measuring apparatus. Itching and scratching evaluations came from volunteers’ self-declarations.
Results : DNA-array studies on keratinocytes showed a clear regulation of skin barrier functions and epidermis defence pathways. Upregulation of epidermal differentiation complex genes was observed. These preliminary observations were reinforced by immunocytochemistry and immunohistochemistry studies showing a significant increase of involucrin, filaggrin, loricrin, SPRR, LC3B and ceramide 2 productions. Tight-junctions and corneodesmosomes were significantly reinforced both in keratinocyte cultures (corneodesmosin, claudin, ZO-1) and in skin explants (desmoglein). DNA-array studies also demonstrated upregulation of genes involved in detoxification and anti-inflammation pathways. Proteomic studies revealed that hBD2 production was increased in keratinocytes in contact with SENKY, whereas IL-8, PGE-2 and TLR-9 releases were repressed as well as sebocyte lipid production. Clinical evaluations confirmed that after 3 weeks, SENKY significantly reduced dandruff intensity, redness, itching and scalp histamine content compared to placebo and beginning of treatment.
Conclusion : For the first time, SENKY has been shown to promote scalp homoeostasis by reinforcing barrier and defence functions at both gene and protein levels. It reduces irritation and redness in promoting detoxification and anti-inflammation pathways while controlling the niche of Malassezia. Applied on scalp, SENKY significantly reduces the formation of dandruff and soothes the scalp.DOI : 10.1111/ics.12417 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29472
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation / M. M. Fossa Shirata in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. M. Fossa Shirata, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : P. 622-628 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Cosmétiques -- Texture
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits antisolaires
Tests d'efficacitéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of this study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation.
Methods : Four cosmetic formulations, vehicle (V), vehicle containing UV filters (F), vehicle containing cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa (A) oligosaccharides and vehicle containing UV filters plus cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa oligosaccharides (multifunctional formulation, M) were developed. The texture profile of the formulations was analysed with a TA.XT plus Texturometer®. Twenty female volunteers aged 39–45 years were then selected for the assessment of immediate clinical efficacy of the formulations under study and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content and microrelief of the skin obtained with their use.
Results : The presence of UV filters resulted in an improvement of the physical properties of the multifunctional cosmetic formulation (M) and of skin microrelief. However, the presence of UV filters also caused a significant decrease in hydration.
Conclusion : The presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and TEWL. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered because it can have either positive or negative effect on the efficacy of the product.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Studied formulations - Texture profile - Clinical study - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Texture profile- Transepidermal water loss - Stratum corneum water content - Skin microreliefDOI : 10.1111/ics.12424 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29473
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups / F. Pouradier in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : F. Pouradier, Auteur ; C. Liu, Auteur ; J. Wares, Auteur ; E. Yokoyama, Auteur ; C. Collaudin, Auteur ; S. Panhard, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur ; G. Loussouarn, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 629-636 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir chevelu
Groupe ethnique
Mesure
Peau -- Physiologie
SébumIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIVE :
The re-greasing process and kinetics of the human scalp, post-shampooing, have been previously documented, in vivo, on a few Caucasian subjects. The objective of the presented research was to extend such knowledge over seven different ethnic groups.
METHODS :
The post-shampooing re-greasing kinetics of the scalp was studied on 1325 subjects (women and men of two distinct age classes) from seven different ethnic groups in their residential and native country. Sebum amounts were determined onto small shaved scalp areas at various times post-shampooing, using the Sebumeter® technique.
RESULTS :
As previously published on Caucasian subjects, scalp re-greasing process follows a hyperbolic-like kinetics over days. However, amounts of collected sebum highly vary with ethnicity. As recorded through the casual level (CL) at the equilibrium phase, 2–3 days post-shampooing, the highest amount of sebum was found in African American subjects, followed in descending order by Caucasian American, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Caucasian European and Indian subjects, the latter showing very low values. Lower amounts of sebum were recorded in the older age class in all ethnics, as compared to the younger one, and male subjects were found higher sebum producers than women, irrespective of ethnicity.
CONCLUSION :
The kinetics and slopes of the re-greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. However, striking quantitative differences are found between the seven ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Locations and timing of the studies - Subjects - Protocol - Statistics
- RESULTS : Sebum production over time in the seven groups
- DISCUSSIONDOI : 10.1111/ics.12425 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29478
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; J.-M. Monneuse, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 637-652 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Barrière cutanée
Couche cornée
Peau -- Anatomie
Photovieillissement (dermatologie)
ProtéomiqueLa protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à -dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données.
Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité.
Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances.
La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine.
La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : BACKGROUND :
The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood.
OBJECTIVE :
To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin.
METHODS :
Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site. Proteins were extracted and the trypsin-digested peptides were analysed by nanochromatography coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer. Data-dependent acquisition allowed protein identification that was processed by Paragon algorithm of Protein Pilot software.
RESULTS :
Changes in the levels of epidermal differentiation proteins were apparent indicating poor epidermal differentiation and SC maturation (keratins, cornified envelope (CE) proteins) on photoexposed cheeks. Differences in protease–anti-protease balance were observed for corneodesmolysis (favouring desquamation) and filaggrinolysis (favouring reduced filaggrin processing). 12R-LOX, a CE maturation enzyme, was reduced in photodamaged skin but not transglutaminases. Changes in signal keratinocyte transduction pathway markers were demonstrated especially by reduced levels of downstream signalling markers such as calreticulin (unfolded protein response; UPR) and increased level of stratifin (target of rapamycin; mTOR). Evidence for impaired proteostasis was apparent by reduced levels of a key proteasomal subunit (subunit beta type-6). Finally, key antioxidant proteins were upregulated except catalase.
CONCLUSION :
Clear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R-LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor cross-talk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to impaired keratinocyte proteostasis. Superimposed on these aberrations is an apparently enhanced mTOR pathway that also contributes to reduced SC formation and maturation. Our results clearly indicate a corneocyte scaffold disorder in photodamaged cheek SC.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study subjects - Sample collection and SC protein evaluation - Protein extraction, digestion and clean up - Nano-liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry - Data analysis and peptide annotation - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Serum diffusion linked markers - Proteases and protease inhibitors - Proteins related to SC cohesion - Proteins related to corneocyte maturation - Other enzymes contributing to NMF generation - Differentiation markers: keratins, annexins - Inflammation markers - Membrane trafficking, microtubule and cytoskeleton markers - Proteasome markers - Antioxidant markers - Heat-shock proteins - Signal transduction markers - SC lipid biochemical markers - Anti-microbial peptides - Lysosomal markers - Intermediary metabolism enzymes - Protein folding markers
- DISCUSSIONDOI : 10.1111/ics.12426 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29479
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches : which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties ? / A. Galliano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches : which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Galliano, Auteur ; J. Y. Kempf, Auteur ; Maxime Fougere, Auteur ; M. Applebaum, Auteur ; L. J. Wolfram, Auteur ; H. Maibach, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 653-663 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Etudes comparatives
ToucherIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objectives : This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs.
Methods : Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root–tip vs. tip–root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations. A series of 17 defined antonym adjectives, as descriptors, allowed responses of each panel to being scored and their preference mappings to being defined on a like–dislike scale. Hair swatches were measured and assessed by various instrumental techniques (bending, diameter, cuticle cohesion, alignments of hair).
Results : Apart from a few overlaps, all 15 hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels which showed a global agreement, making experts reliable assessors. Only three descriptors among 17 correlated with some objective measurements. Tactile-visual assessments differ from those performed tactile blind in both panels. Agreements between both panels appear, however, closer under tactile-blind conditions.
Conclusion : Trained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair swatches - Hair treatments - Protocols - Tactile evaluation by experts and NP: visual and blind conditions - Instrumental measurements - Frictional studies - Statistics
- RESULTS : Tactile evalution by the NP and its preference mappings - Tactile evalution by experts and their preference mappings - Correlations between sensorial and objective measurementsDOI : 10.1111/ics.12428 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29480
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 653-663[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Seasonally-induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women and their changes induced by a daily application of a photo-protective product / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Seasonally-induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women and their changes induced by a daily application of a photo-protective product Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; B. Gautier, Auteur ; A.-M. Benize, Auteur ; A. Charbonneau, Auteur ; M. Cassier, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 664-675 Note générale : Bibliogr Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s
Femmes
Peau -- analyse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau -- Variations saisonnières
Photoprotection
Produits antisolaires
Rayonnement ultraviolet
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIVES :
These were two-fold: (i) to assess the possible changes in some facial signs induced in a 6-month period by the periodical shift from winter to summer in Caucasian women and (ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product.
METHODS :
The facial signs of two cohorts of French women (N= 40 and 42), of comparable ages were graded between winter to summer. One group was left unprotected whereas the other daily applied a strong photo-protective product for 6 months. Facial signs (structural and pigmentation-related) were graded in blind by a panel of 12 experts from photographs taken under standard conditions. A global and focused analysis of the skin colour or dark spots, when present, was carried out through spectro-radiometry under diffuse and standardized visible light, using the L*, a*, b* referential system.
RESULTS :
The unprotected group showed significant changes in summer as compared to winter on 10 facial signs (two-third of the studied signs) that presented an increased severity, of variable respective amplitude. Five signs among the 10 were particularly and significantly affected by the seasonal transition, of an amplitude above the precision of the grading scale. Three of these five signs concerned structural elements (wrinkles), the two others being related to vascular disorders (redness). These season-induced alterations appear efficiently reduced in the photo-protected group. The colour of the facial skin then appears more homogeneous, less red, less dull, all criteria being quantified by the L*, a*, b* referential system. The comparison with a previous work carried out on Chinese women, through a similar protocol, shows that the photo-protective product brings, in Caucasian women, a more important effect upon structural and vascular features than upon pigmentation disorders, inversely to the results previously observed in Chinese women.
CONCLUSION :
The alterations in some facial signs occurring in a 6-month period between winter and summer are confirmed in Caucasian women, mostly related to structural (wrinkles) and vascular elements. Such changes appear alleviated or prevented by daily applications of a strong sun photo-protective product.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Study design - Subjects - Pictures acquisition - Evaluation and grading of facial skin ageing signs. - Facial signs - Assessment of facial skin colour - Statistics
- RESULTS : Comparability of groups 1 and 2 - UV index recors in Paris in 2015 - Changes in facial sign induced by a seasonal effect (winter vs. summer) - Changes in facial skin colour (cheeks area) - Contrasts between dark spots and adjacent sites on checks
- DISCUSSIONDOI : 10.1111/ics.12427 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29481
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Code-barres | Cote | Support | Localisation | Section | Disponibilité |
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19393 | - | Périodique | Bibliothèque principale | Documentaires | Disponible |