Dépouillements

Evaluation of irritation potential of surfactant mixtures / M. Turkoglu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999) . - p. 371–382 Titre : Evaluation of irritation potential of surfactant mixtures Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Turkoglu, Auteur ; E. Pekmezci, Auteur ; A. Sakr, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 371–382 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bétaïnes Erythèmes Laureth sulfate de sodium Lauryl glucoside Oeil -- Inflammation Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Irritation potential of sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) alone, and in combination with lauryl glucoside (LG), polysorbate 20 (PS) and cocoamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) was tested in 13 human subjects. Four main and six sub-formulations were prepared and evaluated. Formulations were applied to the forearm as a 24 h close patch study. Irritation was scored by two different methods using an in vivo clinical protocol based on visual scoring and on the stratum corneum capacitance measurement. Irritation was found to be dose dependent. At 2 mg/patch level ten subjects did not show any skin reaction. At 20 mg/patch level eleven subjects showed a broad range of skin irritation. The highest irritation was observed with the formula that contained SLES, LG, and cocamide DEA together. Among the sub-formulations, cocamide DEA showed the highest irritation grade. A statistically significant correlation was observed between visual, clinical and corneometer scores. It was concluded that the irritation potential of surfactants was related to the total surfactant concentration, application mode, and the thermodynamic activity of molecules in the solution as well as the chemical structure of the surfactant molecules. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211920.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211920.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26469 [article]

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Leg wash protocol to assess the skin moisturization potential of personal cleansing products / Keith D. Ertel in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999) . - p. 383–397 Titre : Leg wash protocol to assess the skin moisturization potential of personal cleansing products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Keith D. Ertel, Auteur ; Paula B. Neumann, Auteur ; Paula M. Hartwig, Auteur ; Gayle Y. Rains, Auteur ; Bruce H. Keswick, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 383–397 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Jambes Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Many personal cleansers claim to provide a skin moisturization benefit, but there has been relatively little discussion in the scientific literature of the clinical methods that provide the basis for such claims. We have developed a leg wash method to assess the dry skin improvement potential of personal cleansing products. The protocol is performed on ’natural’ dry leg skin to avoid potential confounds that may result from applying cleansers to soap-damaged skin. Washes are conducted over a period of days or weeks, with visual and instrumental assessments performed at various times throughout the period to characterize products’ short-term and cumulative skin effects. Studies conducted with a variety of personal cleansing technologies demonstrate the method’s ability to discriminate products on the basis of their dry skin improvement potential. Further, results from a series of eleven leg wash studies conducted with the same treatment pair under different test conditions (time of year, test facility, expert grader) demonstrate the protocol’s robustness. The data generated under this protocol show that personal cleansing products differ widely in their ability to improve dry skin. Our results indicate that there is a wide range of efficacy among moisturizing personal cleansing products, with some products delivering a significant dry skin improvement benefit even for periods as long as 24 hours. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211908.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211908.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26470 [article]

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The outermost stratum corneum layer is an effective barrier against dermal uptake of topically applied micronized titanium dioxide / Frank Pflücker in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999) . - p. 399–411 Titre : The outermost stratum corneum layer is an effective barrier against dermal uptake of topically applied micronized titanium dioxide Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; H. Hohenberg, Auteur ; E. Hölzle, Auteur ; T. Will, Auteur ; S. Pfeiffer, Auteur ; R. Wepf, Auteur ; W. Diembeck, Auteur ; H. Wenck, Auteur ; H. Gers-Barlag, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 399–411 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Protection Dioxyde de titane Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits chimiques -- Absorption Produits chimiques -- Sécurité Rubans adhésifs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In order to help clarify the controversially discussed dermal uptake properties of micronized titanium dioxide (TiO ), we conducted extensive in vitro dermal absorption studies with ’Franz-type’ diffusion cells on excised porcine skin. After biopsies and chemical fixation, the overall localization of TiO in the skin was analyzed by means of transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The lateral and vertical distribution of TiO within the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated by tape stripping and subsequent scanning electron microscopy (SEM) in combination with energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDXA). TiO was found exclusively on the outermost SC layer. The surface deposit, as displayed by TEM, featured clearly distinguishable agglomerates as well as single particles with a characteristic cubic shape and a primary particle size of about 20–50 nm. Concurrently, SEM/EDXA micrographs first showed an even distribution of TiO on the skin surface. After 10-fold stripping, however, TiO was found to be localized only in the furrows and not on the partially removed ridges of the skin surface. SEM/EDXA micrographs of the adhesive tape strips revealed a characteristic pattern of stripped material and free regions. This pattern was an imprint of the skin’s topography. Hence, tape stripping initially removed TiO and SC layers only from the ridges and not from the deeper furrows. Continued stripping increasingly yielded material from the deeper contours of the SC surface. TiO was found only in traces in the upper part of the follicle without any evidence of uptake into the follicular epithelium. This indicates that there is not any relevant penetration via the follicular route. We conclude that due to the microtopography of the skin, the strip number normally does not reflect the SC layer number. Accordingly, tape stripping results should always be interpreted with care, especially in the case of topically applied particles, as even higher numbers of subsequent strips may still sample material from the outermost SC layer of the deeper furrows, which could be interpreted falsely as penetrated material. Our results clearly demonstrate that TiO homogeneously and completely covers the outermost SC layer. It is neither delivered to the SC nor to the underlying skin layers when applied topically to porcine skin in vitro in the cosmetic vehicle used here. These findings underscore the safety of this micronized inorganic UV filter. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211924.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211924.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26471 [article]

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Crystal clear transparent lipstick formulation based on solidified oils / Hélène Clermont-Gallerande (de) in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999) . - p. 413–424 Titre : Crystal clear transparent lipstick formulation based on solidified oils Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hélène Clermont-Gallerande (de), Auteur ; V. Chavardes, Auteur ; Leonhard Zastrow, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 413–424 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Huiles et graisses Rouges à lèvres Solidification Transparence (optique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We have developed a lipstick, the stick of which looks totally transparent. The base, coloured or not, may contain high concentration of actives or fragrances. The present study examines the process of determination of oils and solidifying agents. The selecting criterion include visible spectroscopic measurements to quantify transparency of the formulated product. We have also validated the stick hardness through drop point and breakage measurements. After several investigations, we selected a mixture of oils and solidifying agents. The oil network obtained has been characterized through optical microscopy, transmission electronic microscopy, X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimetry. We can show that the final product we obtained is amorphous and its solidity can be explained by chemical bonds formation. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211909.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211909.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26472 [article]

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Skin moisturisation and elasticity originate from at least two different mechanisms / J. M. Wiechers in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999) . - p. 425–435 Titre : Skin moisturisation and elasticity originate from at least two different mechanisms Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. M. Wiechers, Auteur ; T. Barlow, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 425–435 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Cosmétiques  'Hydratation  de  la  peau'  'Elasticité  Efficacité  Occlusion  Humectance  Absorption  'Analyse  en  composantes  principales'  'Mélanges  multifonctionnels' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin moisturisation and elasticity are clearly linked in people’s mind. For a large series of neat personal care ingredients we measured both their skin moisturising and plasticising performance on human skin in-vivo, and were able to rank the products according to their effectiveness. Efficacy was expressed relative to benchmark products: glycerine for moisturisation and water for elasticity. A good spread in skin moisturisation efficacy was found: 15 of our products had a relative performance of less than 30%, 23 products scored between 30 and 70% and 7 ingredients marked above 70%. For skin elasticity, the number of products in the corresponding groups was 36, 4 and 2. This discrepancy could be due to the choice of benchmark products, but when the values for relative elasticity performance of the various ingredients were plotted against those of relative moisturisation effectiveness, it became obvious that skin moisturisation and elasticity are not linearly correlated. This is at least remarkable as water was used as the benchmark product for skin elasticity. The common belief that increased skin moisturisation will automatically lead to enhanced skin elasticity is therefore unlikely to be true. The only logical conclusion seems to be that different molecular and/or biochemical mechanisms are contributing to these two skin functionalities. By means of Principal Component Analysis, the correlation between molecular descriptors such as skin penetration and humectancy on the one hand and substantivity and occlusivity on the other was evaluated to explain the observed skin moisturisation. It became obvious that none of these purely molecule-based molecular descriptors could explain the measured skin effects. Skin itself plays an important role in a yet unidentified manner. If both activities are desired in one cosmetic formulation, at least two active ingredients will need to be incorporated, each contributing to one of the two effects. Examples of multifunctional mixtures and an assessment of the feasibility of obtaining multifunctional molecules are presented. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.236815.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.236815.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26473 [article]

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Horse chestnut – aesculus hippocastanum : potential applications in cosmetic skin-care products / J. A. Wilkinson in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999) . - p. 437–447 Titre : Horse chestnut – aesculus hippocastanum : potential applications in cosmetic skin-care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. A. Wilkinson, Auteur ; A. M. G. Brown, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 437–447 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Chimie végétale Cosméceutique Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Saponines Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In addition to the well reported beneficial effects of horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) extracts on venous insufficiency and associated conditions, such preparations also have many potential positive pharmacological effects on the skin. Extracts from this species, and in particular, those based on horse chestnut seeds, contain saponins, known collectively as ’aescin’, which have a gentle soapy feel, and are potent anti-inflammatory compounds. Saponins, such as escin, also reduce capillary fragility, and therefore help to prevent leakage of fluids into surrounding tissues, which can cause swelling. An extract of horse chestnut has recently been shown to have one of the highest ’active-oxygen’ scavenging abilities of 65 different plant extracts tested. Such extracts are more powerful anti-oxidants than vitamin E, and also exhibit potent cell-protective effects, which are linked to the well-known anti-ageing properties of anti-oxidants. The extract is also rich in a number of flavonoids, such as derivatives of quercetin and kaempferol. Flavonoids also have protective effects on blood vessels, and are well-known, powerful anti-oxidants. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.234192.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.234192.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26474 [article]

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