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Titre : REACH - a distributor's perspective Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Trevor Baker, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 10-12 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne
Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union EuropéenneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : REACH, the new European Union (EU) regulation, which has its name formed from “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of CHemicals”, came into force a year ago and replaced a number of European Directives and Regulations with a single system.
REACH has global implications, and meeting its requirements is far from straightforward.
As the technical manager of Cornelius, I am tasked with ensuring the company is fully compliant with the legislation. This has been, and will continue to be, an extremely onerous task due to the complex nature of the legislation and the sometimes ambiguous nature of the company’s position in the supply chain. Outlined in this article is how I have been tackling REACH issues.
Cornelius is a UK-based chemical distribution company selling into a number of markets including that of cosmetics and personal care. The company represents principals and suppliers from a number of countries in the European Union and from China, the US and Brazil. As well as being a distributor, the company also has a manufacturing business which effectively makes it an importer, manufacturer and downstream user.
The company’s position is far from unique and many other distribution companies will find themselves in a similar situation.
It is incumbent on all EU companies to comply with REACH wherever they are in the supply chain. Consequently, it is necessary to understand the legislation from each standpoint, in order to comply as required.
Another problem for many distribution businesses is that, as importers, their volumes may be relatively small and it is not cost-effective for them to register substances due to the lack of profitability against the cost of registration. It is therefore necessary for them to ensure that their suppliers are registering the materials so that they, the distributors, can effectively move down the “supply chain” to become downstream users. This is, of course, only relevant when importing material from outside the EU and has its own set of problems.
Ensuring REACH compliance and the responsibilities this entails are met involves not just internal processes and talking to suppliers. Customers, too, require support and have their own requirements under REACH. One of the most time consuming parts of dealing with REACH is handling the plethora of customer forms which require filling in. I will describe how I have dealt with these and many other issues as part of my role of ensuring Cornelius’s compliance with the legislation. I will outline how we have adapted our IT systems and website to help in this task as well as how we have communicated the requirements of REACH to our suppliers and customers.
I will finish with a “vision of the future” and try to anticipate how REACH will roll out over the coming months and years.Note de contenu : - Understanding REACH
- 'Master-file' system
- Role of the 'Champion'
- Customer enquiries
- The futureEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kG_FfbiTyNNYqFk8YE0xU5yHpf4Ihe3X/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22085
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Titre : Sunscreen regulations : an updated comparison Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 22-25 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Shown here are details of sunscreen regulations applying in Japan, the United States, Canada, the European Union,
South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, South Korea, China and Thailand. Harmonisation still has not been
achieved either in the composition of approved sunscreens or in the maximum content of individual ingredients.
Also remaining not standardised is the test method used to calculate the Sun Protection Factor (SPF).En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gykRYaKN50STMaqBb7bo_dKSzdsX_bCd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22087
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Organo-functional silicones – choices for formulations / Kevin O'Lenick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Organo-functional silicones – choices for formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kevin O'Lenick, Auteur ; Tony O'Lenick, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 27-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ingrédients cosmétiques
Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles
SiliconesLes silicones, ou polysiloxanes, sont des composés inorganiques formés d'une chaine silicium-oxygène (...-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-...) sur laquelle des groupes se fixent, sur les atomes de silicium. Certains groupes organiques peuvent être utilisés pour relier entre elles plusieurs de ces chaines (...-Si-O-...). Le type le plus courant est le poly(diméthylsiloxane) linéaire ou PDMS. Le second groupe en importance de matériaux en silicone est celui des résines de silicone, formées par des oligosiloxanes ramifiés ou en forme de cage (wiki).Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A question asked by every formulator is: “How do I get the highly desirable properties of silicone in my formulation when formulating with silicone can provide its own set of problems? In short this is what we define as “The Silicone Conundrum”, an intricate and difficult problem. The selection of the proper silicone for a formulation requires the formulator to understand why the silicone is in the formula (for wetting, conditioning, emulsification, skin feel, film formation...) and which silicone provides that property most efficiently in the formula (with all the other ingredients). First and foremost, one must understand the chemistry of silicone polymers and the effect of structure on function.
Silicone compounds have been known since the 1860s, but it was not until the pioneering of Rochow in the 1940s that
this important class of compounds achieved commercial viability. This was due in large part to the development of a
process which was called the direct process, and now bears Rochow’s name. Silicone chemistry provides the polymer
chemist with the ability to construct precise molecules having desirable nanotechnology properties. Silicone polymers are derived from SiO2, a naturally occurring mineral that makes up 25% of the earth’s crust. SiO2 is converted
to Si at high temperature in the presence of a carbon source. Figure 1 shows the two materials. The resulting Si metal is then crushed and reacted in a fluidised bed reactor to
produce chlorosilanes, using the Rochow process. The reaction is shown in Figure 2. The preparation of chlorosilanes is
practised by a small number of manufacturers who grind up silicon metal and react it in a tubular reactor with methyl
chloride. The manufacturers of chlorosilanes are affectionately referred to as “crushers”. Chlorosilanes are hydrolysed in water to make intermediates used to make silicone derivatives. The reaction product of water and chlorosilanes is referred to as hydrolysate. The chlorosilanes are placed into water, HCl stripped off and after distillation and a variety of clean-up processes, a series of silicone building blocks emerge. The most important of these includehexamethyldisloxane (MM), cyclomethicone
(D4) and silanic hydrogen compound.That is just the start of the story.These materials are combined in a variety of ways to make silicone polymers of interest. The unit operations are shown in Figure 3.Note de contenu : - Construction : Silicone fluids - dimethicone
- Functionalisation : 1. Dimethicone copolyol compounds - improved water solubility - 2. Alkyl dimethicone - improved oil solubilityEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PVjwADU_KyIF5gQuXMZkOA8luTZLGDKp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22088
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Titre : Boosting efficacy of preservatives Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marion Leschke, Auteur ; Wolfgang Siegert, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 32-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie)
Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : he topic of preservation is always of importance to formulators and finished good marketers. Formulators are aware of the necessity to adequately preserve their products in order to ensure product safety and be in compliance with the respective legislations. This task is made much more difficult when marketing requirements are added to the factors influencing the preservative choice. Demands such as global approval, soft preservation, „free of...", etc. have limited the number of acceptable actives. Increasing marketing pressure has resulted in an interest in reducing the amount of traditional preservatives in cosmetic formulations or in finding novel ways to keep cosmetic products microbiologically stable. It is now more important than ever that preservation or microbiological stability is an integral part of new formulation concepts. At an early stage of product development, formulators must consider all possible methods of enhancing the efficacy of traditional preservative actives, e.g. using chelating agents or multifunctional materials. There are some ingredients known in the market which can boost the efficacy of preservative actives without having their own antimicrobial effect. Chelating agents are able to enhance the efficacy of most preservatives. This occurs as the chelator removes metal ions from cell walls of the microbes. The weakened walls then allow the biocide to penetrate and destroy the microorganisms. Although the boosting effect of chelating agents on preservatives is well known, the environmental fate of these material has been debated. To avoid the environmental discussion about chelating agents, readily biodegradable alternatives have been introduced to the market (1). Note de contenu : - Ethylhexyglycerin - a booster for preservatives
- Boosting preservative efficacy woth chelating agentsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ozt9X0wUyw0-hguHw7an0TJwSKjuOvGf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22089
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Simpler tools for customising sensorial properties / J. M. Carey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Simpler tools for customising sensorial properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. M. Carey, Auteur ; B. Moran, Auteur ; F. Shuster, Auteur ; B. Vondruska, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 37-42 Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Careful design of sensory properties can transform a skin care routine into a pleasant, memorable experience. Imagine being able to efficiently tailor sensory profiles to individual preferences. The Noveon Consumer Specialties group of Lubrizol Advanced Materials has developed visual tools that will enable formulators to easily select the appropriate products to meet desired formulation aesthetics and skin feel. These tools centre on proper selection of Carbopol polymer and Schercemol ester combinations to influence sensory properties, which is the essence of the SensiMap concept. Sensory attributes are a critical component of any emulsion-based skin care formulation. Generating the correct sensorial properties has always been a challenge. However, in today’s global market, meeting regional preferences has further complicated this task. Dealing with the increasing complexity of sensorial requirements in the face of ever decreasing resource availability, increasing cost pressures and increasingly shortened development time requirements has escalated the need for formulation tools that simplify the process. Noveon Consumer Specialties has developed such a tool assisting in selecting the correct rheology modifier and emollient ester to deliver specific sensory properties.
Carbopol polymers are renowned for their ability to modify rheology and stabilise emulsions. However, they also have dramatic potential for enhancing other product attributes such as sensorial properties. Because they accomplish rheology modification and stabilisation through a space filling mechanism, they occupy the entire aqueous phase of the formulation. Polymers such as Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer (INCI Name: Carbomer) can convey lightness and freshness, while polymers such as Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer (INCI Name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) impart richness and creaminess. With Schercemol esters, you can tailor richness, spreadability, slip and persistence of emolliency to deliver precisely the irresistible tactile appeal you desire. Light esters such as Schercemol NGDO ester (INCI Name: Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate) feel soft with high slip and fast absorbency, while heavy esters such as Schercemol DISM (INCI Name: Diisostearyl malate) ester convey longlasting richness and elegance.Note de contenu : - The sensory contribution continuum
- Rheology modifier contribution to sensory properties
- Emollient contribution to sensory properties
- The sensory combination matrix
- Combined formulating guide
- Discern the differenceEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/147f63Td8orwpIgEoIRJRPVKSLDpXb6dz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22090
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Forming organogels with PE and ethylene copolymers / Mickey McDonnell in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Forming organogels with PE and ethylene copolymers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mickey McDonnell, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 45-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Copolymères
Ethylène
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Polyéthylène
Réticulation (polymérisation)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We have seen that a gel consists of a network that supports a fluid. When that fluid is an organic liquid, polyethylene and its copolymers produce good gel networks. These polymers can form network crosslinks by both crystallisation and entanglement. To make a gel, heat the polymer and the organic liquid to about 5°C above the cloud point and cool while gently stirring until the increasing viscosity makes it difficult to continue. For a stronger gel, use more polymer. You must control the gelation conditions carefully to achieve reproducible results. Gels of polar organic liquids are more robust when made with ethylene/VA or ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers. With this information, you are ready to make good gels. Note de contenu : - Making a gel with crystalline crosslinks
- Adding entanglement crosslinks
- Selecting the right polymer for a gelEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kOZXphzbeZ9DYInLcXqmjlmkDpzNVb1T/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22091
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Aluminium effect pigments provide boost / Katrin Steinbach in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Aluminium effect pigments provide boost Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katrin Steinbach, Auteur ; Ulrich Schmidt, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aluminium L'aluminium est un élément chimique, de symbole Al et de numéro atomique 13. C’est un métal pauvre, malléable, de couleur argent, qui est remarquable pour sa résistance à l’oxydation13 et sa faible densité. C'est le métal le plus abondant de l'écorce terrestre et le troisième élément le plus abondant après l'oxygène et le silicium ; il représente en moyenne 8 % de la masse des matériaux de la surface solide de notre planète. L'aluminium est trop réactif pour exister à l'état natif dans le milieu naturel : on le trouve au contraire sous forme combinée dans plus de 270 minéraux différents, son minerai principal étant la bauxite, où il est présent sous forme d’oxyde hydraté dont on extrait l’alumine. Il peut aussi être extrait de la néphéline, de la leucite, de la sillimanite, de l'andalousite et de la muscovite.
L'aluminium métallique est très oxydable, mais est immédiatement passivé par une fine couche d'alumine Al2O3 imperméable de quelques micromètres d'épaisseur qui protège la masse métallique de la corrosion. On parle de protection cinétique, par opposition à une protection thermodynamique, car l’aluminium reste en tout état de cause très sensible à l'oxydation. Cette résistance à la corrosion et sa remarquable légèreté en ont fait un matériau très utilisé industriellement.
L'aluminium est un produit industriel important, sous forme pure ou alliée, notamment dans l'aéronautique, les transports et la construction. Sa nature réactive en fait également un catalyseur et un additif dans l'industrie chimique ; il est ainsi utilisé pour accroître la puissance explosive du nitrate d'ammonium.
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Pigments métalliquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Metal effect pigments have thin plateletlike particles composed of pure metals, e.g. aluminium and copper or metal alloys like bronze (copper/zinc). Unique beauty of the metallic colours derives from the play of light on the metal pigment surface caused by reflection and scattering of incident light. In the interplay with other colorants, metallic pigments are a versatile tool to adjust the shade of a colour as well as tinting strength and colour play.1 Aluminium pigments especially – as being additive to effects with many other colorants – can greatly increase the colour palette available to formulators if combined with organic absorption pigments and/or pearlescent pigments. Taking these advantages as well as all the specific cosmetic market demands – purity, conformity to regulatories – into consideration, a unique class of metallic pigments has recently been designed and launched for cosmetic applications. The physical parameters of aluminium effect pigments largely depend on the manufacturing process. Mean particle diameter and particle size distribution, flake thickness and flake surface quality are key factors for the pigment quality. As they are directly impacting the performance characteristics such as brilliance, whiteness, covering power, tinting strength and flop, these parameters need to be controlled tightly. In general, any cosmetic application might benefit from the common features of metal effect pigments – which are brilliance, opacity and the ease of aligning plane-parallel forming thin layers with a metallic appearance. Compared to any other category of pigments the most complete coverage can be achieved as metallic pigment flakes do not allow any light to pass through. These characteristics give many benefits in all categories of colour cosmetics and in skin care. Note de contenu : - Silver dollar pigments
- Aluminium hydroxide encapsulation
- Coloured aluminium pigments
- Platinum dollar pigments
- PVD pigments
- Dispersions for nail polish applicationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oPsP4NJJ9KpF7rEoYAn73y4fkWnzyPz7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22092
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible New polyurethane film formers developed / Sophie Viala in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : New polyurethane film formers developed Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Viala, Auteur ; Sebastian Dörr, Auteur ; Steffen Hofacker, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 55-57 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dispersions et suspensions
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Matériaux filmogènes
Polymères en émulsion
Polyuréthanes
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Polymeric film formers are widely used in cosmetics for various purposes. Film formers are the main active ingredients commonly used in hair fixative and styling products to hold individual hairs by creating a transparent substantive film on the hair fibres. In skin care, sun care and decorative cosmetics they allow an improvement of the water or oil resistance, the transfer resistance and the durability (long-lasting properties) of the product. There are two major technologies for film former suggested in the market: film formers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (homopolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone or vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer) and carboxylated resins (acrylate copolymer, acrylate/acrylamide copolymer). These polymer classes present some disadvantages :
Carboxylated resins and vinyl pyrrolidone impart, informulations, a tacky skin feeling.
The mechanical properties of polymer film formed on skin or hair are difficult to control. In most cases, the polymer film formed is brittle.
In hair styling applications, carboxylated resins and vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers demand solvent in the formulations. As a result, these polymers are only suitable in a limited way for low VOC hair styling formulations or for water-based formulations. On the one hand, consumers are looking for cosmetic products having a more natural feel on the hair or skin (i.e. non-tacky skin feel, no tightening effect on skin, natural look hairstyle). On the other hand, the cosmetic industry has to adapt the formulations to meet environmental legal regulations, initiated in the US, by limiting the content of volatile organic compounds. To address this demand, we have developed new polymeric film formers based on polyurethane chemistry. These polymers are sold under the trade name Baycusan® C. In this article, we will present these new polyurethane film formers and demonstrate the efficacy of a new product class in various cosmetics formulations.Note de contenu : - Four dispersions
- Chemistry
- Results : 1. Performance on hair - 2. Decorative cosmetics : improvement of water resistance - 3. Peel-off masks
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tgnyX6cIdAn1-42sIgs0AJYDWzZ75Gsy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22093
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Effect of rose fruit extract on facial skin pores / Yoshihito Kawashima in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Effect of rose fruit extract on facial skin pores Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yoshihito Kawashima, Auteur ; Akinori Kiso, Auteur ; Naoko Kishida, Auteur ; Yoko Ito, Auteur ; Nobuaki Ohto, Auteur ; Toshimitsu Kambara, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 58-61 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Conspicuous pores, which can be caused by excess of sebum secretion, sagging of the skin and parakeratosis, constitute one of the major skin problems faced by women. The size of facial pores, which is indicated by total area etc, is increased with age. Facial pore deformation is also induced by decreased elasticity with ageing. Young women are aware of conspicuous pores on the nose, which can be caused by excess of sebum secretion. On the other hand, middle-aged women are aware of conspicuous pores on the cheek, which can be caused by decreased skin elasticity. Furthermore, young and middle-aged women are aware of not only pores morphology but also keratotic plugs and darkish rings around pores. Recent studies address the problem of conspicuous pores raising issues such as anatomical structure, possible causes, seasonal change, menstrual cycle and care. From these results, many cosmetics for facial pores containing active ingredients have been developed. However, there are few cosmetics for facial pores containing a natural plant extract as an active ingredient. In this study, evaluated were activities of various plant extracts, and found was remarkable activity, for facial pores care, in rose fruit extract. Note de contenu : - IN VITRO ASSAY : 1. Testosterone 5 a-reductase (TSR) assay - 2. Androgen receptor antagonist assay - 3. Effect on involucrin synthesis - 4. Effect on flaggrin synthesis - 5. Astringency effect - 6. Effect on type I collagen synthesis - 7. Effect on melanogenesis - 8. Effect on lipid peroxidation
- CLINICAL STUDYEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WMguBQh4OhX80pONIbXkcMjJAgJvkLGg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22094
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Silicones : trends and hard facts / Michel de Poortere in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Silicones : trends and hard facts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michel de Poortere, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 63-65 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ingrédients cosmétiques
SiliconesLes silicones, ou polysiloxanes, sont des composés inorganiques formés d'une chaine silicium-oxygène (...-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-...) sur laquelle des groupes se fixent, sur les atomes de silicium. Certains groupes organiques peuvent être utilisés pour relier entre elles plusieurs de ces chaines (...-Si-O-...). Le type le plus courant est le poly(diméthylsiloxane) linéaire ou PDMS. Le second groupe en importance de matériaux en silicone est celui des résines de silicone, formées par des oligosiloxanes ramifiés ou en forme de cage (wiki).Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silicones are a great source of inspiration for innovation and their qulities are appreciated in thousands of products from wind turbines to fireproof clothing, prosthetic limbs and green tyres. Derived from sand, silicones are a wide family of products available as fluids, emulsions, resins, elastomers, waxes and blends. They are prized in the highly-competitive personal care sector as they help formulators stay ahead of the game with new products, pushing the boundaries of technology to meet consumer demand in a crowded marketplace. Silicones help differentiate products, giving multiple benefits to a single raw material technology. Multifunctional silicone ingredients allow product manufacturers to simplify formulations while maintaining or improving product performance. For glazing to electronics, silicone science has improved thousands of products and shown a continuous track record in developing products consumers want and need, improving the style, performance and comfort of everyday life. Silicones are the ingredient of choice for many cosmetic, personal care and cleaning products. They add shine and gloss to lip colours and conditioners, boost silkness and ease of application in creams and lotions. They ensure the spreadability and staying power of everything from sun lotions to eye shadows. Just some examples of silicones' benefits are longlasting lip colour, hairspray that holds, dry and comfortable deodorants and heat-resistant creams as well as eye shadow and other make-up that stays put in water or hot weather. Note de contenu : - History
- Factors explained
- Recent trends
- REACH
- Socio-economic study
- Adcancing sustainability
- Voice of the industryEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JIYju-Xe166h8V2y4AONOuUMyY8p348F/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22095
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Using liquid crystals in cleansing formulations / Ulrike Marx in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Using liquid crystals in cleansing formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrike Marx, Auteur ; Torsten Krohn, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 67-69 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The development of personal wash formulations made a dramatic step forward during recent years. In the last century personal wash was just a step of cleaning the skin and not really seen as being a part of body care. Mildness has been an issue but more or less just under the aspect of skin irritation via protein denaturation. Moreover in focus are moisturising properties and influence on trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The main point is that beside mildness of cleaning the after treatment was the one seen as the “real” skin care, the repair and care function against influences of the environment and age, and damage via cleansing processes. The latter may not have been considered as such, because of the point that detailed information about structures of the skin and influences on the skin and its functions were not known that much in detail. Today we know that one of the very important points is to respect the skin’s own protective function. We know that water loss of the skin does not only mean dry skin, but may also influence skin metabolism, which may be slower in a less moisturised tissue. This can lead to increased ageing of the skin. Note de contenu : - New interpretation
- Future trendEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uNyLPnOKgRkR3zHEAlYi304t_pclhzAi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22096
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Titre : A touch of summer for all seasons Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabine Hitzel, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 70-71 Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Within the past three years the cosmetic day care sector has been extended by a new cosmetic product class which brings the summer onto our skin – even in winter time. The labels of products of this new segment often include words such as “summer”, “holiday” and “sun” in connection with “natural tan”, “light hue” and especially with “glow”. All these products provide “A touch of summer for all seasons”, and the active ingredient which is providing the light coloration is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). DHA Rapid is a new composition based on DHA, and it is especially designed for the day care market.
The composition is an innovation to meet the sunless tanning demand of the end-user. It fulfils the long-lasting desire of women and men to be perceived as healthy, dynamic and attractive every day.Note de contenu : - Tanning reaction
- Synergic effects
- Proof of efficacyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VrPKA_gxiiWThjct9wv4FlIsdjrtJQSv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22097
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Titre : Formulating with exotic butters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James J. Ramirez, Auteur ; Larry S. Moroni, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 73-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Contrary to what their name might otherwise imply, exotic butters being used in cosmetic formulations are not sourced from milk and contain no dairy by-products. By definition, exotic butters are naturally occurring, plant-derived lipids that are generally solid at room temperature, but melt readily on contact with the skin. The definition has been extended to include man-made butters produced via blending of natural (plant derived) oils with fractionated or hydrogenated oils to simulate the properties of a “butter”. Naturally occurring butters are extracted by various means and usually come from the seeds or kernels of the source plant. Expeller pressing (physical extraction) and chemical (solvent) extraction are the most commonly employed techniques to obtain the lipid butter content. The fatty acid chemistry and composition of a butter are directly responsible for its physical qualities such as melting point, hardness, stability and the reason that this oil is a solid at room temperature in the first place. Exotic butters such as shea and cocoa are considered “classic” emollients. They have been relied on as integral cosmetic oil-phase ingredients for decades. They both have fatty acid profiles that lend themselves towards penetrating the epidermis in order to hold in moisture, and to bring nutrients to the different strata of the skin. They have both shown excellent miscibility, acceptable oxidative stability (with cocoa butter outperforming shea butter in terms of shelf life), along with higher levels of saturated fatty acids contributing to emulsion stability. These classic butters, along with a slew of new emerging exotic butters can build viscosity in emulsions and add complexity and depth to anhydrous product formulations. Indeed, naturally occurring butters such as mango butter, shea butter, sal (Shorea Robusta) butter, cupuacu (COO-PA-SOO) butter, and tucuma (TOO-COO-MA) butter have proven to have aesthetically pleasing properties. Many companies such as The Body Shop and natural cosmetics giant Burt’s Bees are marketing them as pure “body butters”. With such an increase in attention given towards natural cosmetics, certified organic cosmetics and the ayurvedic personal care movement that is exploding worldwide, other lesser known butters such as sal (Shorea), kokum (CO-COME), illipe (E-Lip-A), murumuru, (MOO-ROO-MOOROO) and mowrah (MO-RA) butters will give cosmetic chemists variety when picking a CBS or SBS (cocoa butter substitute, shea butter substitute). These butters promise to offer a bevy of different aesthetic qualities with benefits to personal care products ranging from oxidative stability, humectant properties, anti-inflammatory properties to curative abilities for such maladies as eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis and sun burn. While not a cure-all by any means, the level of versatility and efficacy that these emerging natural ingredients can offer to almost any kind of formula should not be ignored or taken lightly. Note de contenu : - What is a butter?
- Aesthetic match
- Avoiding exotic butter formulations pitfallsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TIxOqXtlV-O9KnXXGC__EiofheyUiDY-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22098
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible New anti-ageing strategy focuses on mitochondria / Isabelle Imbert in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : New anti-ageing strategy focuses on mitochondria Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Isabelle Imbert, Auteur ; Anne-Françoise Clay, Auteur ; Joël Mantelin, Auteur ; Karine Cucumel, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 79-85 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Mitochondries
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Mitochondria play a central role in metabolism and bioenergetics, and their main macromolecular structures have been determined down to the atomic level. However, the study of mitochondria is far from exhausted. Recent understanding of the essential role of mitochondria in the ageing process has raised considerable interest in a new anti-ageing approach that involves the development of new target molecules to protect against mitochondrial ageing and dysfunction. Several characteristics make motochondria unique. They are matrenally inherited and have their own unique DNA as well as the machinery to produce their own ribonucleic acid (RNA) and many proteins. Mitochondria are involved in many biological pathways such as skin cell proliferation and repair and regulation of the cellular redox state. In the skin, the number and activity of mitochondria are related to the differentiation process: terminally differentiated keratinocytes contain no mitochondria whereas basal keratinocytes and fibroblasts hold mitochondria that allow these cells to sustain their metabolic activities. Cellular protection against mitochondrial ageing would enable the cellular redox state in balance and to avoid mitochondrial dysfunction that would induce further cell damage. Strong interest in protecting mitochondrial DNA has been confirmed by its higher capacity to accumulate mutations and its lower capacity for repair compared with nuclear DNA. Note de contenu : - Key role in cell biology
- Two-membrane structure
- Mitochondria genome (mtDNA)
- Mitochondrial functions : 1. Energy production and oxidative phosphorylation - 2. Energy dissipation - 3. Production of reactive oxygen species - 4. Apoptosis
- Mitochondrial theory of ageing : 1. ROS production and the energy crisis - 2. The vicious cycle theory - 3. ROS production and mtDNA damage - 4. Altered structures - 5. Impaired mitochondrial recycling - 6. Impaired mitochondrial division (fission) - 7. Mitochondria, sirtuins and lifespan
- Cosmetic target strategies addressing mitochondriaEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/151NioqstjBc1wMyWkm7hcMh1h6AjbtGM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22099
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Effective preservation with multifunctional naturals / Fernando Ibarra in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Effective preservation with multifunctional naturals Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fernando Ibarra, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 86-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Alternative preservation is becoming more and more popular, and many products that claim to be “preservative free” or “free of synthetic preservatives”, “paraben free” etc are on the market. Since the consumer perception of preservatives is not very positive, many chose their preferred cosmetic products according to the "free of…" claims. There have been many debates in the industry, criticising that development and blaming cosmetic manufacturers or raw material suppliers for this trend. Indeed many manufacturers proactively use the absence of traditional preservatives to position their products. The basic core of this conflict is that, on one hand, there are good reasons to do without some (but not all) traditional preservatives because of toxicological matters. On the other hand, there is an undisputable need for preservation in nearly all cosmetic products. The fact that an increasing number of products is nowadays preserved with alternative ingredients shows that the concepts work effectively – since the same microbiological test methods are used for the assessment of product safety. A survey from a German governmental testing institute revealed that in 400 cosmetic products that were sampled randomly, there were no differences in microbiological quality between those with traditional and alternative preservation. So, in the end there are supporters of both, traditional preservatives and alternative systems. The advantages and disadvantages of most traditional preservatives have been discussed extensively and will not be focused on in the following overview of alternative preservation systems. There have also been a number of introductions and updates on alternative or natural preservation systems. As the differences between both terms are not always entirely clear and furthermore there are many products in the market, in which traditional preservatives are blended with alternative antimicrobial ingredients, there is still need for a clarification on the definitions of traditional, alternative and natural systems for preservation. The main reason for the discrimination is not given by scientists or by efficacy data, but by the European Cosmetics Directive and other similar laws in other parts of the world. Whenever preservatives are collected in a positive list as in Europe (Annex VI of the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC), the definition of a preservative is fixed. So the possibility to use marketing claims like “preservative free” is a simple consequence of the governing legal environment as soon as there is no substance from Annex VI in the end product. There are some established ways of alternative preservation that are very effective and not at all debated, like the use of ethanol. Ethanol falls exactly in the same category as most ingredients for alternative preservation and is used extensively for alternative preservation concepts. Alternative preservation systems normally have well documented cosmetic functions like hydrating, refatting, perfuming or others. These cosmetic functions (defined as “primary function” of the respective ingredient) are a crucial requirement for the legally correct use of such antimicrobial raw materials. One of the highlights of the continuing controversy about preservatives were scientific publications that were intended to show a correlation between breast cancer and the use of parabens in deodorants. There was never proof of a causal connection, but only findings that a significant number of samples of cancer tissue contained parabens. Certainly, if tested, there would be a similarly significant amount of healthy tissue containing parabens – or other compounds present in cosmetic products. So there is certainly no reason to panic when such weak scientific conclusions reach the public. However, there are also cases where “experts” trivialise the fears of the public and by doing so act in quite the same way (i.e. not scientifically) as the mass media do – only in the opposite direction. This is for instance the case when the use of formaldehyde releasers is discussed and their supporters lecture about differences between risk and hazard and the safety at the allowed use levels. Why is it so hard to accept that consumers who buy products to promote their health and wellness are not happy about carcinogens on their skin – in whatever concentration ? Many ingredient suppliers have noticed that there are still many means to avoid ingredients with such [marketing] disadvantages and develop new and innovative systems for alternative preservation. Note de contenu : - Alternative preservation approach
- Preserving natural cosmeticsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u5KNX1tSbRxOjBXBvWCS8YizkF6JG1Lm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22100
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Removing guesswork from skin care and hair care / Grant Gibson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Removing guesswork from skin care and hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Grant Gibson, Auteur ; Damon Borich, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 91-93 Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The personal care industry represents a more than US$300 billion worldwide market. As the global consumer becomes savvier through exposure to electronic media and advertising, the burden of proof for product claims is raised for new entrants to the market or for new formulations of existing products. Unsubstaintiated product claims and consumer suspicion influence buying decisions and drive the need for demonstrable proof of proper product selection and performance. At the same time, with advancements in cellular and molecular biology, an exciting new generation of products with novel anti-ageing, anti-wrinklen, clarifying, and beautifying elements are emerging. Unfortunately, many of these formulations are coming under scrutiny from skeptical consumers who are eager to see scientific data to support wether the product will work for them personally. Note de contenu : - Need to personalise
- Innovated
- Synthetic receptors
- Analysis system
- Focus on skin analysis
- Evidence required
- Trends : 1. Industrial/clinical research market - 2. Professional spa and salon market - 3. Retail cosmetics sales and home self-testing market - 4. Core science and business baseEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tjLHZaUxRJNXPsGWXsTvwPq57V3MyhKD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22101
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Elevating NMF concentration with a natural moisturiser / Harald van der Hoeven in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Elevating NMF concentration with a natural moisturiser Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Harald van der Hoeven, Auteur ; John Sabrina, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 95-97 Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For any living organism, presence of water at the sites where it is essential for normal functioning is crucial for survival. The outer layer of the skin provides a typical example of the human body preserving water at an essential site (in close proximity to a dry environment). It is therefore understandable that control of the presence of water is one of the fundamental properties of the skin. Note de contenu : - Water in the stratum corneum as related to dry skin
- The importance of the natural moisturising factors
- Elevating the hydration level of the SC with a cosmetic active ingredient
- In vivo determination of skin hydration
- The effect of BVHC complex on skin hydrationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10wOFJVMjXY699QUSv46eD7bYX2iqvQCx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22102
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Utilising acrylic polymeric rheology modifiers / P. Reeve in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Utilising acrylic polymeric rheology modifiers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. Reeve, Auteur ; Y. Vandenberghe, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 99-102 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques -- Additifs
Epaississants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Polyacryliques
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The choice of an appropriate thickener or stabiliser for use in personal care formulations will depend on several factors. These include the compatibility of the additive with the basic components of the formulation in question, the physico-chemical environment in which the polymer is required to perform, as well as the rheological characteristics qhich are to be achieved in the finished product. This article looks at the parameters which need to be met, and how the matrix can have an influence on formulation rheology and polymer efficiency. Note de contenu : - Wide range
- Summary of experimental results and formulation experienceEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cgv0GJrEHjiJMHbxQgj2HCicstTP6Cdj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22103
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Formulating anti-ageing products with folic acid / Aline Hueber in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Formulating anti-ageing products with folic acid Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aline Hueber, Auteur ; Christine Saecker, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 104-106 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Dermo-pharmacie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Vitamine B9La vitamine B9, autre nom de l'acide folique (folate, folacine ou vitamine M, acide pteroyl-L-glutamique, pteroyl-L-glutamate et acide pteroylmonoglutamique), est une vitamine hydrosoluble.
L'acide folique est le précurseur métabolique d'une coenzyme, le tétrahydrofolate (FH4 ou THF4), impliquée notamment dans la synthèse des bases nucléiques, purines et pyrimidines, constituant les acides nucléiques (ADN et ARN) du matériel génétique. Le THF intervient également dans la synthèse d'acides aminés tels que la méthionine, l'histidine et la sérine. (Wikipedia)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : If skin aged counter-clockwise when people turned 35 years, not only would consumers select their cosmetic products differently but also the whole cosmetic industry would have to offer completely different product categories. Of course this is just an attractive idea. Ageing proceeds in one direction and the skin unfortunately often shows the most obvious signs of ageing. The major telltale signs are reduced elasticity, poorer structure and appearance of wrinkles. Reduced turnover of skin cells and exposure to environmental factors (such as UV light), speeding up the process of skin ageing, are essential causes. It is recognised that especially the more deeply penetrating UVA light triggers cutaneous photo-ageing by a pathway that starts in dermal fibroblasts with alterations of (mitochondrial) DNA.1 A strategy helping to slow down premature skin ageing would therefore involve stimulation of skin cells such as fibroblasts, while preventing DNA damage at the same time. Several substances are known to help slow down premature skin ageing by antioxidant activity, by stimulating collagen synthesis or by other specific mechanisms. None of the vitamins or anti-ageing ingredients used so far in cosmetic formulations could demonstrate modulation of the DNA repair mechanism. The B vitamins are a class of vitamins the cosmetic industry would not go without. The well-known vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and vitamin B6 (pyridoxin HCl) have been used for years in personal care products because of their benefits for skin and hair. Only vitamin B9 (folic acid) remained the least tapped for cosmetic applications. Note de contenu : - Essential substance
- Fibroblasts
- Apoptosis
- DNA repair
- Dermal cells
- Formulating anti-ageing productsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sk2yNisU3ifWreXlkHj1ShRWcUIukch0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22104
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Titre : Formulation guide Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 109-114 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Actifs anti-pollution
Agents de blanchiment
Antiâge
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Conservateurs (chimie) -- Suppression ou remplacement
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Produits après-shampooings
Produits capillaires
Produits hydratants
Sécheresse cutanéeUne xérose est un dessèchement de la peau.
Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments.
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : 8 marques présentent 15 formulations de produits cosmétiques. Note de contenu : - B&T Srl :
- Antipollution skin face
- Revitalizing serum
- CLR GmbH :
- Preparing sun face treatment (O/W)
- Natural night cream (O/W)
- CRODA CHEMICALS EUROPE LTD :
- Eye care cream
- Beauty boost facial moisturise
- Anti aging facial moisturiser
- EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GmbH :
- Teenager's rich smooth lotion for dry skin
- Teen pure - Facial anti-acne lotion
- Revitalizing conditioner for stressed young hair
- JEEN INTERNATIONAL CORPORATION :
- Hand and body moisturiser
- Fragrance-free daily C firming serum
- LIPOTEC :
- Brightening cream
- MCINTYRE GROUP LTD :
- Preservative free natural shampoo
- STEPAN COMPANY :
- Clear shampooEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U08pn4nVpn8_2EzaD2tm4BhQn7bFzelM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41032
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